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headlights and blinkers
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 4:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OrangeMango wrote:
I mean I replaced all the bulbs for the back and the head lights, only ones left are the front signal lights, so I might as well replace them and see if they might be causing the fast blinking.

Did you post the model of turn signal bulbs you used? Stock rear turn signals should be #1156 (25W - single filament). Fronts should be #1157 (5W/25W - dual filament). If you used any other type bulb (eg. LED or smaller wattage) you may have problems with the flasher relay.


OrangeMango wrote:
Thanks, I see the tab now that I look again. I'm going to try and check everything before tearing out the tar wall, I'd just rather not get into ripping that out if it's not necessary, the rest is gonna be a Saturday job anyways. Thank you for the photo, I will repair the wiring for that point Saturday as well. Your engine looks very nice and clean, nice work.



@pgtips, thanks for contributing to the Owner's Manual database.

Unfortunately that pic of the reverse light fuse is just one I found in the gallery. I WISH my engine was that clean (If I still had an engine Sad ).
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OrangeMango
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 10:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I think this might be why my blinkers are going so fast, I looked closer and it has wires for the top and bottom, but the flasher I have is the left, top, and right. Could that be the problem?

Also my I tried looking at my horn again and it still won't work, I can't get a ground out of my steering wheel.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 5:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OrangeMango wrote:
So I think this might be why my blinkers are going so fast, I looked closer and it has wires for the top and bottom, but the flasher I have is the left, top, and right. Could that be the problem?

Huh? Confused
I'm not clear what you are describing?
Can you post the make/model# from the flasher relay as well as the terminal numbering/lettering stamped on the relay. Also, go ahead and post the part# for your turn signal bulbs.

I know you posted the fuse box diagram for a '71-'72 Beetle previously but will you confirm your Beetle model year and whether it is a Super Beetle or STD?


Here is a pic of common flasher relay terminal layouts and terminal numbering:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I believe RFL3 is the layout used for aircooled VWs. Most of the other relays in this diagram will not work with the VW turn signal/E-Flasher setup so you want to make sure your flasher relay is the correct one.


OrangeMango wrote:
Also my I tried looking at my horn again and it still won't work, I can't get a ground out of my steering wheel.

Is this a new problem? I don't think you mentioned a problem with you horn in your earlier posts? Maybe you can start a new thread rather than cloudy this one.
Make sure there is 12v+ at the horn while the ignition is ON. Could this be related to how you have your fuse box wired? I'm not clear if you corrected the wiring at the fuse box so it matches the wiring diagram (not the original VW fuse box diagram)?
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OrangeMango
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 9:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the picture I took yesterday and forgot to post.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


If you loom closely you only see plugs on the top and bottom one. Not the middle or sides.

Also I didn't mention it earlier because I've just had the horn disconnected but was thinking maybe the horn could cause an issue some when in the column for the blinker but looking closer at the wiring it should go around and not mess with anything of the blinkers.

I'll create a new thread or search and see if someone else has had the same issue with the horn. Thanks. Also I'll post the information on everything else when I get home tonight.
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OrangeMango
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I was looking at the relays and unplugged the one on the end and plugged it into the middle, thinking hey there both 3 prong, and everything worked but my emergency flashers, plugged the old one in and it wants to work again. I wanna jump off a bridge with how confused I am.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now I still don't know what the one on the right controls while all my electric works.

So I was pulled the lever for the windshield wiper fluid but it popped the 10th fuse. I then tried to switch the red and whites around to see if that would work, all my lights still work. Why?? Shouldn't with the wrong fuses something shouldn't work right?

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ashman40
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OrangeMango wrote:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

So I was looking at the relays and unplugged the one on the end and plugged it into the middle, thinking hey there both 3 prong, and everything worked but my emergency flashers, plugged the old one in and it wants to work again. I wanna jump off a bridge with how confused I am.

That pic is worth a 1000 words....
You have two flasher relays! You should only have ONE.
I looked up Littelfuse FLR760 (the right end relay) and it does appear to be a correct 3-prong flasher relay for a 70's VW Beetle:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/LIT3/FLR7...;ppt=C0241

The layout of the female terminals in the "relay bridge" for the right relay is wrong for a stock flasher relay. So that is obviously NOT the position for the flasher relay. I would guess that that wires running to the right hand position are NOT wires for the flasher relay?


OrangeMango wrote:
Now I still don't know what the one on the right controls while all my electric works.

Can you get a pic of the color of the wires that run to each relay? Typically, here are what the wire colors represent....
    White and Yellow wires = Headlight Dimmer relay
    Black/White/Green or Blue wire = Flasher relay
    Grey and Brown wires = Door Buzzer relay


The middle relay also appears to be a stock VW flasher relay. The terminal numbers match the flasher relay circuit#s.


OrangeMango wrote:
So I was pulled the lever for the windshield wiper fluid but it popped the 10th fuse.

Sounds like you have a short inside the wiper switch or the steering column housing.


OrangeMango wrote:
I then tried to switch the red and whites around to see if that would work, all my lights still work. Why?? Shouldn't with the wrong fuses something shouldn't work right?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

If you install a lower amp fuse (8A) into a circuit that draws more amps (16A fuse circuit) then it will quickly blow because the current draw in the circuit will overheat and melt the fusible metal link along the fuse.
If, on the other hand, you install a higher amp fuse (16A or 25A) into a circuit that normally draws less amps (8A) but has a short that causes the 8A fuses to blow.... the higher amp fuse may not blow, but instead aloow the 8A circuit to draw MORE amps. The circuit wires... which were desgned to carry around 8A... will melt!; maybe the wires will catch fire!!; and since they are right over the fuel tank your whole car goes up in flames!!! Shocked Evil or Very Mad
Please only install the correct size fuses into the proper location. The fuses are there to protect the wires. They are properly sized for the circuit they support. If the fuse blows, it means there is something WRONG. Find out what it is and fix it.... don't just swap fuses until things magically work again. If you do that you are just asking for trouble. Very Happy

BTW, that pic of the trunk side of your fuse box shows that your parking lights are on fuse #1 & #2... headlights are on fuses #3 ~ #6. I can't really make out which colored wires are connected to fuses #7 ~ #12, but most look like they might be correct. The bottom of your fuse box is the input side based on the pairs of fuses linked together (one white high beam wire powers two fuses that output to two separate white wires).
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OrangeMango
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 12:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm trying to go based boffins the picture of the fuses diagram posted above, the middle flasher runs the emergency and the blinkers, the left one my low/high beam switch. The right one I don't know because it has 2 wires run to it, the top and bottom, if you look closer at the picture I posted about you might be able to see it but it's hard to make out, but the flasher that came with it was a 3 prong so I tried replacing it with a 3 prong also thinking it controlled my blinkers but I was wrong, the middle flasher relay controls that. So I'm seriously confused what those run to especially since only 1 has been plugged in the entire time. Also I tried switching the fuses because the old diagram I has said it went white red white red, while the updated says differently, maybe that was the issue, still blue it so I was wrong again. Still my wipers work but as dar as I know the wiper fluid leaver only operates off of pressure from the spare tire correct? So why would it pop the fuse? Unless it's supposed to auto activate the wipers after a spray, that's what a friend told me could be the issue. If it's any addition my radio has stopped working as well.city feel like this has gotten worse the closer I get to fixing it, or at least 2 problems pop for every one fix, damn hydra.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 1:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

But your connecting to dirty terminals . . . Idea

Per few posts ago, you needed to get it all clean, get some fine sand paper and clean up all the fuse tangs then give them a wipe with white spirit, clean up your fuse ends, also replace the connectors at the point where they plug into your lights and clean up the light terminals as well, make sure the springy bit (the tangs) touch the light.

Is not a hard job but if you don't do it you will be shooting in the dark forever. I can instantly see from your fuse pic they are not cleaned up.

Also it will make future problems less likely and / or easier to trace.

If you don't know what I mean ask and I'll explain with pics, I had to learn once and there's nothing wrong in asking.
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OrangeMango
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok I'll go back over them with sand paper again and see if I can clean them better, I was Googling and I guess someone took their off and used coke to clean it off. I'll try and clean that up but I don't know why pulling the leaver for the windshield wiper fluid would pop the fuse.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OrangeMango wrote:
I'm trying to go based boffins the picture of the fuses diagram posted above, the middle flasher runs the emergency and the blinkers, the left one my low/high beam switch.

If you are working on your wiring you really should be working from the wiring diagram. The fuses are shown in the wiring diagram and you can actually map the fuse to the colored wire that runs to the specific devices.


OrangeMango wrote:
The right one I don't know because it has 2 wires run to it, the top and bottom, if you look closer at the picture I posted about you might be able to see it but it's hard to make out, but the flasher that came with it was a 3 prong so I tried replacing it with a 3 prong also thinking it controlled my blinkers but I was wrong, the middle flasher relay controls that. So I'm seriously confused what those run to especially since only 1 has been plugged in the entire time.

I asked above for you to take a pic of the wiring colors to this mysterious relay on the right. If you don't want to post a pic just describe the color of the wires. The wiring color may help identify what that relay position was used for. It is likely the wires run to the door switch which would mean the relay that should be installed there was the door buzzer relay. That would mean the PO had accidentally installed an old flasher relay into the spot where door buzzer used to be.

OrangeMango wrote:
Still my wipers work but as dar as I know the wiper fluid leaver only operates off of pressure from the spare tire correct? So why would it pop the fuse?

Hmmm, you have liquid running THROUGH an electrical switch... I wonder why it could be shorting out and blowing the fuse???? Confused Confused

But seriously, it could be as simple as the switch or a wire in the switch is frayed and the action of pulling on the lever causes the wire to touch ground. You need to trace the wire that powers the wiper motor and see if there is anything amiss.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 2:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OrangeMango wrote:
Ok I'll go back over them with sand paper again and see if I can clean them better, I was Googling and I guess someone took their off and used coke to clean it off. I'll try and clean that up but I don't know why pulling the leaver for the windshield wiper fluid would pop the fuse.


Just a light brush with fine sandpaper is fine, I've heard coke does a job but bit messy.

the fuse pop is most likely due to a short, live triggering where it shouldn't be so the fuse pops. Pulling back your shorting out so the problem lies in the switch connections.

But how is it you have wiper when you pull back. Might sound dumb Q because I haven't got it on my 1302, my wipers are worked by the turn knob on the dash. For jets of water I would push the button which works via tyre pressure.
If thats not the case and its electric then that must be connected to a fluid pump so you need to make sure that's wired up correctly too.
Apart from that there is nothing else, it will work.

PG
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=451210
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=479721
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

pgtips wrote:
But how is it you have wiper when you pull back. Might sound dumb Q because I haven't got it on my 1302, my wipers are worked by the turn knob on the dash.

Interesting?? This may be a difference between model years... is your 1302 (flat windshield SuperBeetle) a '71 or '72 model year?
My understanding is from the '72 model year VW switched to steering column mounted wiper switch. Maybe this is a US-only model change and does not apply to your non-US model?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 6:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes very different to mine. Mine are like the budget beetle version, obviously there's a deluxe model out there too Smile !!
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OrangeMango
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes My 72 had the switch as a arm, not in dash.

This is the 2 wires going to the flasher on the right side, its a red one that leads to the fuse box, the #10 fuse, the same fuse that keeps popping, and the other wire is blue/gray. The brown one running to the are for the dome light inside the car. I believe the blue/gray ones are for the door buzzer. I left those connected when I replaced the door jam for the light, I should probably remove those but could those be causing a ground out and the fuse to pop? They do dun to the 10th fuse by what I can tell.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2015 2:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OrangeMango wrote:
I should probably remove those but could those be causing a ground out and the fuse to pop? They do dun to the 10th fuse by what I can tell.


My layout id the same, with 'spare' relay ports but no wires running into it.

My steering column had extra wires, quite common, but if 10 is popping and you don't know what these are, and you connected them and they run to 10 then bearing in mind its an unused relay port there is nothing to lose by disconnecting them. They may be, like mine, unused.

BUT if you left them connected and it wasn't wrong before then what has changed.
Quote:
when I replaced the door jam for the light
Idea

If light door jam not connected does it still fail ?
Did you clean up the connections and any paint around the terminals or screws ?
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Trim ring info here -> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559668
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=451210
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=479721
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2015 6:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OrangeMango wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

This is the 2 wires going to the flasher on the right side, its a red one that leads to the fuse box, the #10 fuse, the same fuse that keeps popping, and the other wire is blue/gray. The brown one running to the are for the dome light inside the car. I believe the blue/gray ones are for the door buzzer. I left those connected when I replaced the door jam for the light, I should probably remove those but could those be causing a ground out and the fuse to pop? They do dun to the 10th fuse by what I can tell.

Confirm this is actually fuse #10???
Fuse #10 is powered by the black/yellow (X) wire coming from the ignition switch. This fuse powers the wipers, blower and rear window defroster.

Fuses #7-#9 are powered by the battery (red wires). Fuse #9 should be used for the dome light and the door buzzer. If this was wired to your "spare" flasher relay, I have no idea if this would cause the fuse to blow. Find a proper door buzzer if you want to install a relay here. There should also be another red wire running from #9 directly to the dome light so you can turn it ON at anytime.

From the pic I would say the red wire from the right relay position is running to fuse #9 and that thick black/yellow wire runs to the next fuse which would be fuse #10. Please double check and confirm which fuse is powering that right relay and which fuse is the one blowing? If you actually have the relay wire running to fuse #10 it is incorrectly wired and might be the reason #10 is blowing.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I looked closer at it was the #9 it's connected to. Been super busy and haven't been able to talk a look at it.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you want a door buzzer, find the correct "buzzer relay" and install it making sure the correct colored wires will be on the correct terminals of the relay.

If you don't care if you get an annoying buzz when the door is opened then leave the door buzzer relay out and don't worry about it. If you have the proper door switches installed the dome light will still turn ON when the doors open.
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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2019 11:47 am    Post subject: Re: headlights and blinkers Reply with quote

I am having a heck of a time getting my directional light to work. They worked fine last week but then I was trying to get the emergency flashers to work and I think I caused a short.
I too have a 1972 1302 German manufactured for Europe Super Beetle and the buzzer for leaving the ignition key in the switch has no wires installed for the buzzer. If you look at the left most box it is for the headlights, the next space is blank the next or third space is for the three pronged flasher for directional and emergency lights, the fourth is empty and in my car the last to the right is empty too.
My front lights are directional only no parking light or marker function, single contact and now use a 93 bulb. I couldn't find any 1156 bulbs. The rear directional is the upper bulb with a yellow lens and a single contact bulb. I have replaced all bulbs and cleaned contacts, etc.
I am wondering if I might have to hook up the emergency flasher switch again to get the directional lights to work? I couldn't get the emergency lights to work so I took out the switch; now no directional lights. I just nee the directional lights to work to pass inspection and get my car registered.
When I activate the directional switch on the steering column the only bulb that lights is at the bottom of the speedo. Headlights seem to work fine including high and low beam, though they are too high.
If you have the orange cover Bentley Manual it has the same wiring diagram and a diagram of the relays and where they go. If you look at the 1972 wiring diagram you will see the H3 relay; this is the buzzer. J2 is the flasher relay. The blue wire coming from the 49a terminal becomes the black-green-white wire going to the signal switch. This then feeds power to the black-white and black-green wires for the directional lights. J relay is for the high-low beam headlights.
The only other thing that doesn't work is the fresh air blower and need to figure out how to shut off the hot air coming from the heat exchangers. The levers on the tunnel are in the position for restricting the hot air but some still gets in.
I did get a new battery since the German battery the car came with was from 2009 and when tested wouldn't hold a charge anymore.
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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2019 1:51 pm    Post subject: Re: headlights and blinkers Reply with quote

DesignBuild wrote:
I am having a heck of a time getting my directional light to work. They worked fine last week but then I was trying to get the emergency flashers to work and I think I caused a short.
I too have a 1972 1302 German manufactured for Europe Super Beetle and the buzzer for leaving the ignition key in the switch has no wires installed for the buzzer. If you look at the left most box it is for the headlights, the next space is blank the next or third space is for the three pronged flasher for directional and emergency lights, the fourth is empty and in my car the last to the right is empty too.
My front lights are directional only no parking light or marker function, single contact and now use a 93 bulb. I couldn't find any 1156 bulbs. The rear directional is the upper bulb with a yellow lens and a single contact bulb. I have replaced all bulbs and cleaned contacts, etc.
I am wondering if I might have to hook up the emergency flasher switch again to get the directional lights to work? I couldn't get the emergency lights to work so I took out the switch; now no directional lights. I just nee the directional lights to work to pass inspection and get my car registered.
When I activate the directional switch on the steering column the only bulb that lights is at the bottom of the speedo. Headlights seem to work fine including high and low beam, though they are too high.
If you have the orange cover Bentley Manual it has the same wiring diagram and a diagram of the relays and where they go. If you look at the 1972 wiring diagram you will see the H3 relay; this is the buzzer. J2 is the flasher relay. The blue wire coming from the 49a terminal becomes the black-green-white wire going to the signal switch. This then feeds power to the black-white and black-green wires for the directional lights. J relay is for the high-low beam headlights.
The only other thing that doesn't work is the fresh air blower and need to figure out how to shut off the hot air coming from the heat exchangers. The levers on the tunnel are in the position for restricting the hot air but some still gets in.
I did get a new battery since the German battery the car came with was from 2009 and when tested wouldn't hold a charge anymore.


Wiring diagrams
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt1.php
_________________
1973 1303 with AB-motor - sporadic
reconstruction as time permits, 1986 ex-Bundeswehr Doka - on the road again.

I'm definitely, probably, the worlds greatest lover.

Aithníonn ciaróg ciaróg eile.
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