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totodile493 Samba Member
Joined: October 22, 2010 Posts: 26 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 7:44 pm Post subject: Timing Question |
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I was setting the timing on a 1974 Super I recently got, and noticed the engine seems to "want" more advanced timing than the "official" 5 deg ATDC. I mean, at the recommended setting, it seems like it's laboring more than it should.
I went with the recommended setting anyway and adjusted the idle accordingly.
After about thirty minutes of driving, the engine will overheat (indicated by white smoke and a warm sensation emanating from the rear) and I'll have to pull over to let it cool down.
I sightly advanced the timing later, and the overheating problem was solved. But a few days later, I grew paranoid about detonation and reset the timing to the original setting. The overheating problem is back.
Besides this, the engine is perfectly fine, the fan is clean, and the tarboard is secure.
Can I advance the timing a little to help with overheating? If so, how far can I go without detonation? |
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Eric&Barb Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004 Posts: 24764 Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 7:49 pm Post subject: |
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You need to find out and post which distributor you have. Timing is set according to distributor used, AND you need the correct distributor for the size of engine, and carb used if you are going to use vacuum advance. _________________ In Stereo, Where Available! |
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Juanito84 Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2012 Posts: 2436 Location: Colorado Mountains
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Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 8:08 pm Post subject: |
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What kind of carburetor and distributor do you have? There were dual heat-riser 1974 Beetles with 34 PICT-4 carburetors that were supposed to be ran at 7.5* BTDC if I do recall, not 5* ATDC. That's over 12* difference!
But regardless. A common rule of thumb is to disconnect and plug all the vacuum lines between the carb and the distributor, then rev the engine to over 3,500 RPM and then set the timing to between 28* to 32*. _________________ If a water cooled engine cools its water with air, isn't it just an overcomplicated air cooled engine?
Last edited by Juanito84 on Sun Oct 04, 2015 8:09 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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totodile493 Samba Member
Joined: October 22, 2010 Posts: 26 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 8:09 pm Post subject: |
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Engine Number: AH087047
Not sure about the distributor, but it is Bosch and has the number 983 on the side.
There is no vacuum hookup.
Carb just says "H30/31PICT Ind.Bras."
Last edited by totodile493 on Sun Oct 04, 2015 8:19 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Juanito84 Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2012 Posts: 2436 Location: Colorado Mountains
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Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 8:11 pm Post subject: |
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That's an aftermarket distributor. Definitely NOT designed to run at 5* ATDC. Set it to 28* to 32* BTDC with the engine revved to 3,500 RPM. _________________ If a water cooled engine cools its water with air, isn't it just an overcomplicated air cooled engine? |
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totodile493 Samba Member
Joined: October 22, 2010 Posts: 26 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 8:17 pm Post subject: |
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Juanito84 wrote: |
That's an aftermarket distributor. Definitely NOT designed to run at 5* ATDC. Set it to 28* to 32* BTDC with the engine revved to 3,500 RPM. |
Don't get mad, but I have no tachometer. Do I need to go get one or is there some other way of knowing how much is 3500 RPM? |
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sjbartnik Samba Member
Joined: September 01, 2011 Posts: 5998 Location: Brooklyn
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Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 8:19 pm Post subject: |
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totodile493 wrote: |
Juanito84 wrote: |
That's an aftermarket distributor. Definitely NOT designed to run at 5* ATDC. Set it to 28* to 32* BTDC with the engine revved to 3,500 RPM. |
Don't get mad, but I have no tachometer. Do I need to go get one or is there some other way of knowing how much is 3500 RPM? |
Get one. Any auto parts store will sell you a basic dwell/tach meter. _________________ 1965 Volkswagen 1500 Variant S
2000 Kawasaki W650 |
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Juanito84 Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2012 Posts: 2436 Location: Colorado Mountains
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Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 8:30 pm Post subject: |
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totodile493 wrote: |
Juanito84 wrote: |
That's an aftermarket distributor. Definitely NOT designed to run at 5* ATDC. Set it to 28* to 32* BTDC with the engine revved to 3,500 RPM. |
Don't get mad, but I have no tachometer. Do I need to go get one or is there some other way of knowing how much is 3500 RPM? |
It would be a good idea to get a tach/dwell meter, especially if your distributor has points.
But for now one way to tell is to stick the timing light on it and increase the RPMs until your distributor stops advancing. Note what RPMs it stops advancing at and then at idle add the remaining degrees and set it there. Then rev it up again to see if it stops advancing at 28*-32*. If it's still off readjust again. _________________ If a water cooled engine cools its water with air, isn't it just an overcomplicated air cooled engine? |
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Juanito84 Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2012 Posts: 2436 Location: Colorado Mountains
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Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 8:38 pm Post subject: |
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What does it say on the side of your carburetor and on the base flange?
Your engine will run better if you get the right distributor. _________________ If a water cooled engine cools its water with air, isn't it just an overcomplicated air cooled engine? |
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Eric&Barb Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004 Posts: 24764 Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 8:53 pm Post subject: |
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Look for the distributor # on the side below the orange cap. You might need a small mirror to look at the front side to find it.
EG
Sears sells a great "Engine Analyzer" you can pick up for less than $30.00 used, which is a lot less than an engine rebuild. These will do volts, RPM, dwell, ect....
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=engine+anyliz...p;_sacat=0 _________________ In Stereo, Where Available! |
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Juanito84 Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2012 Posts: 2436 Location: Colorado Mountains
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Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 9:01 pm Post subject: |
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Ok. Now I see you have an aftermarket H30\31 PICT carb. (for some reason I didn't see that.) I'm guessing you have a 009 distributor. A SVSA distributor would likely be the best. I still think you could get an SVDA to work with it if plug the venturi advance tube, although many disagree with me. _________________ If a water cooled engine cools its water with air, isn't it just an overcomplicated air cooled engine?
Last edited by Juanito84 on Mon Oct 05, 2015 10:02 am; edited 1 time in total |
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totodile493 Samba Member
Joined: October 22, 2010 Posts: 26 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 9:18 pm Post subject: |
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I'm guessing that is, in fact, 009. Is this incorrect for the car? What is your guys's source for this information? |
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Juanito84 Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2012 Posts: 2436 Location: Colorado Mountains
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Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 9:31 pm Post subject: |
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Yep. It's a 009 alright. The common aftermarket universal distributor. It'll "work" with any carburetor. It might not get you the best fuel mileage or performance but it'll run. If you're happy with it just running then the carb and the distributor are fine. But if you want some decent fuel mileage you might want to be on the look out for a better carb/distributor combo. _________________ If a water cooled engine cools its water with air, isn't it just an overcomplicated air cooled engine? |
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totodile493 Samba Member
Joined: October 22, 2010 Posts: 26 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 9:35 pm Post subject: |
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Juanito84 wrote: |
Yep. It's a 009 alright. The common aftermarket universal distributor. It'll "work" with any carburetor. It might not get you the best fuel mileage or performance but it'll run. If you're happy with it just running then the carb and the distributor are fine. But if you want some decent fuel mileage you might want to be on the look out for a better carb/distributor combo. |
How do I, or you, know which carb and dist make a good combo? |
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Juanito84 Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2012 Posts: 2436 Location: Colorado Mountains
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Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 9:56 pm Post subject: |
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Now don't get me wrong! Lots of volks feel that the H30/31 and the 009 are a great carb/distributor combo. But for a perfectionist like me I know all too well that the engine not only tolerates more ignition advance at part throttle but it increases efficiency too. And that's exactly what vacuum advance does!
Even though I'm biased towards a vacuum distributor for that reason, my suggestion is to try out the distributor and carburetor you have. If you like how it runs, great! If not, then you can look through lists like this one:
I'm sure there's a list for the 34 PICT carbs too if you have a dual port engine. _________________ If a water cooled engine cools its water with air, isn't it just an overcomplicated air cooled engine? |
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totodile493 Samba Member
Joined: October 22, 2010 Posts: 26 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 10:09 pm Post subject: |
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Alright. Thanks for the help.
I will set the timing using the 3500 RPM technique later and report back. |
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Tim Donahoe Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2012 Posts: 11740 Location: Redding, CA
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Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 10:37 pm Post subject: |
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I have a 1974 Super Beetle. Your car and mine came with a German Solex 34 PICT 3 (or a 34 PICT 4 in California only) back in 1974.
The stock distributor that came with these 34 PICT 3 carburetors were made by Bosch 0231 170 034. They were called an SVDA. The timing was set at idle (800-950 rpms) to 7.5 degrees BTDC--with the single vacuum hose removed from the distributor and plugged while timing.
So, 7.5 degrees BTDC (at idle) was your original timing mark.
Tim _________________ Let's do the Time Warp again!
Richard O'Brien |
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Juanito84 Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2012 Posts: 2436 Location: Colorado Mountains
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Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 12:27 am Post subject: |
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Tim Donahoe wrote: |
I have a 1974 Super Beetle. Your car and mine came with a German Solex 34 PICT 3 (or a 34 PICT 4 in California only) back in 1974.
The stock distributor that came with these 34 PICT 3 carburetors were made by Bosch 0231 170 034. They were called an SVDA. The timing was set at idle (800-950 rpms) to 7.5 degrees BTDC--with the single vacuum hose removed from the distributor and plugged while timing.
So, 7.5 degrees BTDC (at idle) was your original timing mark.
Tim |
Yes, but what is your carb flange number? That would be important since other 34 PICT-3 Solex carburetors were designed for other kinds of distributors, namely the DVDA style distributors.
But yes. That would be my preference too. I see that this engine is a dual port engine, or at least it looks like it is in the pictures. Dual port engines came with 34 PICT carburetors. So if you want a matching carburetor and distributor for your engine, a 34 PICT-3 or -4 with a matching distributor, namely the one mentioned in Tim's post, would be it. I see you even have the EGR manifold, if you wanted to add that too. Is it a dual heat riser? Looks like it could be. _________________ If a water cooled engine cools its water with air, isn't it just an overcomplicated air cooled engine? |
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ashman40 Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007 Posts: 15985 Location: North Florida, USA
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Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 5:30 am Post subject: |
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totodile493 wrote: |
Juanito84 wrote: |
That's an aftermarket distributor. Definitely NOT designed to run at 5* ATDC. Set it to 28* to 32* BTDC with the engine revved to 3,500 RPM. |
Don't get mad... |
Nothing in Juanito's post indicates he was "mad". He emphasized that trying to run that distributor at 5ATDC is NOT correct. This was more for your safety than anything else. Retarding the timing too much will overheat the engine. If you were seeing smoke from your engine you could already have damaged the engine from overheating (probably not... these engines are known for their durability).
The one question I have is what timing marks do you have on your crank pulley? I can see from the pics that you have the TDC dimple on the rear lip of the crank pulley but I cannot make out any timing marks.
Since you are running a non-original distributor the crank pulley may not have the correct timing marks. To set timing to 28-32BTDC @3500rpm you will need at least marks at 28 and 32BTDC. The stock pulley would only have come with a TDC mark as well as one or two more idle timing marks. Just make sure you use the correct timing mark for your distributor.
totodile493 wrote: |
I'm guessing that is, in fact, 009. Is this incorrect for the car? |
Just so you know... the 009 was never installed by VW into ANY vehicle engine. It was common (and still is) for use in race cars where they needed the proper advance timing at WOT. So these are good for race engine timing at idle and at higher rpms. But at the in between engine rpms they tend to be lousy as they were never designed to be used with engines that vary rpms. 009s were common for industrial engines used for generators and pumps that run at a constant rpm. Since your street engine rarely sits at just one rpm 009s are a "minimally acceptable" distributor (IMHO). _________________ AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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totodile493 Samba Member
Joined: October 22, 2010 Posts: 26 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 12:45 pm Post subject: |
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ashman40 wrote: |
totodile493 wrote: |
Juanito84 wrote: |
That's an aftermarket distributor. Definitely NOT designed to run at 5* ATDC. Set it to 28* to 32* BTDC with the engine revved to 3,500 RPM. |
Don't get mad... |
Nothing in Juanito's post indicates he was "mad". He emphasized that trying to run that distributor at 5ATDC is NOT correct. This was more for your safety than anything else. Retarding the timing too much will overheat the engine. If you were seeing smoke from your engine you could already have damaged the engine from overheating (probably not... these engines are known for their durability).
The one question I have is what timing marks do you have on your crank pulley? I can see from the pics that you have the TDC dimple on the rear lip of the crank pulley but I cannot make out any timing marks.
Since you are running a non-original distributor the crank pulley may not have the correct timing marks. To set timing to 28-32BTDC @3500rpm you will need at least marks at 28 and 32BTDC. The stock pulley would only have come with a TDC mark as well as one or two more idle timing marks. Just make sure you use the correct timing mark for your distributor.
totodile493 wrote: |
I'm guessing that is, in fact, 009. Is this incorrect for the car? |
Just so you know... the 009 was never installed by VW into ANY vehicle engine. It was common (and still is) for use in race cars where they needed the proper advance timing at WOT. So these are good for race engine timing at idle and at higher rpms. But at the in between engine rpms they tend to be lousy as they were never designed to be used with engines that vary rpms. 009s were common for industrial engines used for generators and pumps that run at a constant rpm. Since your street engine rarely sits at just one rpm 009s are a "minimally acceptable" distributor (IMHO). |
Well I didn't necessarily mean to say Juanito was mad, but I didn't want to sound annoying like I need my hand held through every little sub-step.
Yes, these things are durable, from what I've heard. For instance, one guy tells me he had an idiot relative who constantly over-revved and abused the crap out of VWs (back in the day), yet they always kept running and only needed a few parts replaced at a time (as opposed to needing new engines altogether).
With how carefully I drive it, and the lack of symptoms, I don't believe it took any substantial overheating damage.
My crankshaft pulley only has two marks: That TDC dimple and a 5 deg ATDC notch. That's what led me to believe 5 ATDC was the default setting. I can print out a degree circle or something and mark 28 and 32 BTDC myself.
I'll keep that in mind. When it comes time to take things apart, I'll definitely try to get all the right parts. |
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