Bostig RG6 and beyond

[dobryan]

Thanks from me too on continuing this thread. (and I'm not even contemplating this conversion)

It really helps to have as robust a knowledge base as possible.
_________________
Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[insyncro]

[insyncro]

Just so that we are all on the same page here:

Copied from the first post and I agree wholeheartedly, just sharing my experience for the benefit of all following along.

" Moderator note:
This person is not associated with Bostig and is not selling anything at this time.
This thread is for discussion only. "

[mpl]

This is great. Having more clear, well described photos of the conversion-in-process is a huge help, both personally and to the community! Keep 'em coming... I'll try to contribute mine as well as I make headway through the conversion.

[insyncro]

[insyncro]

One of the reasons I wanted to use a bellhousing to mount the engine to my stand is to be able to attach the entire conversion and be able to see how it all lines up.
Not everyone needs this, but I have been able to assemble the needed parts, so what the heck, why not.

Here are a few of the things I look at, just to see how it all fits together:

[insyncro]

Threadlockers:

The manual calls for threadlockers and I wholeheartedly agree.
I use these compounds all the time and now rely on them for various reasons.

Number one, when using an adapter plate, we can not afford to have fasteners loosen up.
RED locker will only release when heated.
Heated as in with a torch, not heat from the exhaust or engine compartment.

Here is how I like to apply threadlockers:

Apply a small amount of the locker to the amount of threads that will be mated.
I do so in a line from tip of the applicator, than run my finger all the way around the threads.
Wipe the excess off your finger or where gloves as this stuff isnt really harmful, but better safe than sorry.
It does make a mess and will feel sticky after a few minutes if left on your skin.

[insyncro]

Paint marks:

You will see multiple paint marks on the engines I am working on.
I was taught this many moons ago by a group of professionals in the race industry.
Making marks, multiple color marks are for a reason.
First off, if a fastener is just installed and not torqued for the final time, I make a mark to remind me.
Most often orange means that it is hand tight and needs more attention.
Second, when using the threadlockers described above, especially RED, that needs heat to release, make a red mark so that you or any mechanic that will see the van will know that heat is needed.
Also, let a mechanic know that RED means heat to release.
The fastener will release with brute force, but in some cases, damage to either sides of the threaded portion could happen if enough force is applied.
Simply hit the fastener with some heat and remove it.

Always clean the locker off the threads with a wire wheel before reinstallation and make sure to reapply the appropriate locker.

Paint dots vs lines.
Dots work great as a checklist, when you see them, you can say yup, torqued or yup hand tight.

Making a line through the fastener and out on to what it is fastened too will help show if it has loosened at all.

Here are a few examples:

[insyncro]

Before getting started with your build, I highly recommend cleaning every single part so that they fit together perfectly, as designed.

[insyncro]

SK-A:

This photo was a tough call to post.
Jim says to wedge a bolt between the post and the flywheel.
The nail puller actually worked well as it has a handle to hold on to if needed.
The flywheel was not damaged at all from this tool.
83ft/lbs of torque to the flywheel bolts.
They come from Ford with thread locker pre installed.
I marked them RED as these bolts need to stay put.

Clean the flywheel with solvent well after removing the sticker.

[insyncro]

Ready for the next step.

[jimf909]

Thanks for the terrific thread! These are great shop tips in general and good insights on the conversion.

Looking forward to more.
_________________
- Jim

[regis101]

Nice pictures. Looks good. Out of curiosity, what is the dimension from crank center to the top of the belt cover? If we could only get a legal wiring harness for those of us in Cali-land
_________________
Peace, Regis

[insyncro]

This post deleted by request.


Moderator note/warning: Dylan is generously providing a how-to guide for installing Zetec engines using Bostig's conversion kit so that potential DIY'ers will have a nice online reference. Once again, a reminder: Dylan/insyncro's services are not being advertised and he is not currently for hire. Attacks on his intentions with this topic are not appropriate. Any further questions/attacks regarding his intentions will be removed. Let's keep this great resource positive and civil, folks. Muchas gracias.

[Bassyaks]

Some pretty cool mods here.
http://omextechnology.co.uk/Omex%20Zetec%20Focus%20Engine%20v1_50.pdf

check out page 24

[JudoJeff]

Dylan, well done and very informative.
_________________
________________________________________
1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout)

[insyncro]

[insyncro]

[insyncro]

[regis101]

Your pic's are great. Nice to see real time info. I did find this.

http://media.turbosport.co.uk/2005/2/7342225200502211852.gif
_________________
Peace, Regis