New to me 87 Syncro w/no heat

[12XU]

New to me Syncro
Front and rear blower don't work
All fuses checked out ok
Any suggestions where to start?

[Terry Kay]

Got power at the heater motors?
_________________
T.K.

[djkeev]

Dash switches have the wires plugged in?

Front blower has a ceramic resistor that burns out. It is located INSIDE the heater box in the dash.

Check for voltage at the rear blower motor, easy to do.

Broken wires,
Disconnected ground wires,

???????

Dave
_________________
Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[Farf]

All of the above suggestions and here's a diagram if you do not have a Bentley manual yet. With both fans having different circuits and not running and if the easy checks don't work, you might try looking at the G1 (rear) and the A22 (front) connections located behind the fuse/relay panel. Grounds are noted on the diagram.

Mike

[img][/img][img]

[dhaavers]

Why not suspect the ignition switch, via "x" relay...???

Got wipers? Headlights? There's another clue...
_________________
86 White Wolfsburg Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"
<EDITED TO PROTECT INNOCENT PIXELS>

[insyncro]

With the rear, see if you can rotate the fins of the squirrel cage by hand, if frozen, the electric tests are a waste of time.

To test the front this way...dash out and air distib box needs to be split.

[12XU]

Everything else works as it should
Is the ground for fan motor identified/labeled?
Does the dash have to be removed to check connections to switches?
Can you bypass switch/test motor in place w/o removing dash?
PO said worked when sold (via eBay)
I'm thinking its a loose wire/bad connection
Shipped from NC to OH
Seller good with communications.
Def believable

[insyncro]

The grounding clusters are behind the fuse panel.

Yes the switches can be carefully removed from the dash to access the connectors.

[12XU]

thanks for the tips guys

[wesitarz]

Fan switches can be taken apart to clean the contacts inside. I did mine when I had the dash out. Pulled on the switch and connector (don't do this) until the switch came apart in pieces (use a screwdriver to gently pry the switch from the harness plug - battery disconnected of course).Luckily I found all the pieces. No rear heater so tried to swap over the rear switch but found it was missing inside part(s). Was able to clean the front switch inside contacts and piece all the components back together (pretty straightforward) and I got all 3 fans speeds back instead of 2 as a bonus. The switches are available from one of the vendors GW or VC, I recall.

edit: 2WD switches

[12XU]

Grounds look good behind fuse block
Didn't see any loose wires from fuse block although I could only pull it out s little
Did find a yellow female adapter on yellow wire & gray/wht & blk/red yellow male adapter plugged into nothing.
the contact inside looked like it wasn't plugged into anything recently (slight corrosion)
No idea how to pull switches to test.
Any way to bump motor w/o remiving dash?
Getting cold don't want to damage plastic parts

[wesitarz]

pics in this dash removal sequence show how to get at the heater motor switches

http://www.benplace.com/dash.htm

[Wildthings]

Have you verified that your rear heater is even there? They are often removed because they are prone to leak. The fan on the front heater is also prone to freezing up and or burning out in addition to the switch not working or the resister pack being burnt out. The Vanagon heating systsem while great when it works is not one of VW's bests designs.

[insyncro]

Mice love to nest in the fans and block the rotation.
Power will check out at switch, but fuse should blow.

Sounds like some exploratory work with the dash out is needed.
FYI, many make a big deal about pulling the dash, take your time, don't yank anything and it will be a learning experience.
I have plenty of experience doing this and will gladly race Alika at it.
20 minutes and I too can have the entire area disassembled.
Three times that amount to reinstall with experience.

Did the rear fan spin by hand as I asked already?
It is accessible after the cover is removed from under the rear seat.

[Farf]

If you don't have a volt meter, you should consider getting one, it will help you/us immensely. They are not very expensive.

[12XU]

Have volt meter
Am an electrician
Have rebuilt bmw motorcycles down to bare case
Newbi with Van
Worried about damaging plastic taking shit apart in cold weather

[12XU]

I was hoping to check voltage to ground though the switch without ripping the whole dash apart in the freezing cold.
Or at least try to bump motor with alternate power source

[Bassyaks]

If you don't want to take apart the dash you can get buy with only the back blower to keep you warm and there will be enough heat from the front heater core to keep the window clear. My 87 Auto has not had heat for a few years and it's my winter ride.

[12XU]

Bassyaks,
Neither front or back work.
I'll settle for one
Back heaters in place.
I'll try & spin when I get back in town (Monday)

[morymob]

Make sure water shutoff 4 rear is open, is a lever on heater, some add another water shut off to front heater (orig wont close)underneath above spare tire, mine added in hose about half way to front. If dash lever is open position, as u drive air should be warmed up, also if air vent, already opened too, most leak from age anyway from shot seal.