Deleting stock cooler and pressure relief system?

[tobiism]

On my next engine I was planning on using only a fan assisted external oil cooler and using the JC pressure bypass oil pump cover that dumps excess pressure back to the case. With both of those, is the dual pressure relief system still necessary on the VW case?
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"There has never been a genius without a hint of madness."
-Albert Einstein

[58Dub]

I have thought about the same thing, and I think it would work. The one thing I think you need to address is that with the stock system, dual relief, the system pressure is dictated by the control piston at the end of the oiling system. Take a look at the below illustration I found in the gallery. if you remove the control piston, there is nothing to act as a restriction for the pump to create pressure against. IT will just pump and flow back into the case. I believe you idea would work if you block off the system where the control valve is currently.

Ive not tried this, so we'll see what other have to say

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58 Beetle (now just a pile of parts in the corner)
60 Beetle (2221 turbo under construction)
70 Beetle Baja project

[tobiism]

That was my thought, to replace the springs in the control bores with solid rods to hold the Pistons in place or to plug the relief dump holes. Thanks
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"There has never been a genius without a hint of madness."
-Albert Einstein

[58Dub]

the question would be why... if you are going to ditch the stock cooler, I believe you could get rid of the first relief piston, as I believe that allows high press to bypass the stock cooler. for the control piston, you could buy one of those super high pressure aftermarket springs.. and shim it, and I think that would pretty much block it off for you.
IF you were doing a dry sump system, I could see this as an effort to keep as much oil out of the sump as possible, but for a stock type wet sump, what is it gaining?
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58 Beetle (now just a pile of parts in the corner)
60 Beetle (2221 turbo under construction)
70 Beetle Baja project

[tobiism]

Just to replace those parts of the system with a more modern alternative. I'm sick of blown cooler seals and thought if I'm going to do external cooler and bypass, is the rest necessary?
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"There has never been a genius without a hint of madness."
-Albert Einstein

[58Dub]

I agree with getting rid of the stock cooler, but then you need to figure what will you use for a fan shroud. Ive been told that the non doghouse shrouds still need a "dummy" cooler set up inside to flow properly.
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58 Beetle (now just a pile of parts in the corner)
60 Beetle (2221 turbo under construction)
70 Beetle Baja project

[clonebug]

I'm running my AE case with the oil relief valve swapped around with the spring.
I have the spring in first and the piston against the threaded plug. This plugs the relief hole at the bottom of the piston bore.

This bypasses the oil cooler somewhat at least until the resistance from the small oil gallery with cold oil disappears once the oil warms.
I installed a Mocal Sandwich Thermostat and a oil cooler by the transmission on my buggy.

I was fighting cold oil temps for two seasons and so far this has helped my condensation problem in the engine case.

If you are blowing oil seals you have a pump problem... or a relief spring problem.
Make sure you are running stock springs in relief bores....otherwise you will have too much pressure with a large pump.
I had high pressure problems when I first fired my new engine. I swelled the NAPA filter so much the paint was flaking off.

This happened with a 26mm pump and full flow filter. I had 80 plus lbs at idle and would peg the gauge at anything more than idle.

Stock springs brought it down to 60 lbs. cold idle and 40 lbs. at warm cruise.
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[modok]

[Kjell Roar]

[[email protected]]

One simple solution is to enlarge the pressure relief bypass. We've been doing that for 30 years. This is needed with larger than stock pumps, since the stock relief is too small for the larger pumps.
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