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High / Low beam relay connections.
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atticus finch
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 3:16 pm    Post subject: High / Low beam relay connections. Reply with quote

1970 beetle, harness is all stock.

Got a p/n 111-583 Highbeam/Lowbeam relay mfg by west coast metric. It says it covers 12V 1967 - 1979

Stock (it is the original relay or a factory vw relay) relay has the following terminal numbers: 56, 56A, S, F

The WCM relay has the following terminal numbers: 56, 56A, 56B, S, 30.

I'm guessing simply duplicate the connections from the old relay to the new relay terminals. 56 - 56 , 56A - 56A, and S - S and those should be correct?

However matching the numbers on old & new relay connections leaves the F lead unconnected and two terminals on the new relay of which the F lead likely goes to? So which terminal on the new relay should the F lead be connected to? The # 30 or the # 56B ?
The F lead is factory white and OEM to the car.
Anyone run into this? If so, does the white 'F' lead go to the terminal numbered 30 or to 56B? Or is there another combination of correct hook up ?
I'd take a shot at guessing between the two remaining terminals but I damn sure do not want to generate smoke from the electrical system.
Anyone with experience on this I'd appreciate it.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 4:38 pm    Post subject: Re: High / Low beam relay connections. Reply with quote

Since both have an S terminal the f must be 56b, getting it backwards won't make smoke, never heard of an F terminal before, maybe it's a fog light relay for something?

You'll also have to install a heavy jumper wire from a red wire on the fuse box to that 30 terminal on the new relay or it won't work.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 6:55 pm    Post subject: Re: High / Low beam relay connections. Reply with quote

Those are the correct original terminal markings, with the S and F terminals.

56 is the power in from the headlight switch, 56a is the high beam, F is the low beam, and S is the trigger from the switch in the turn signal arm.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


USA model headlight relays did not include the "flash" function back then, they just powered up when you turned the switch on and switched between the two states - the view of the relay above shows how simple it is - just a big electromagnet that flips a toggle setup. Other markets had a more complicated relay, and this replacement relay is the modern replacement for that one.

I think you need to hook your input power to both 30 and 56. 56A to 56A, 56B to F, and S to S.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 4:26 pm    Post subject: Re: High / Low beam relay connections. Reply with quote

glutamodo wrote:
Those are the correct original terminal markings, with the S and F terminals.

56 is the power in from the headlight switch, 56a is the high beam, F is the low beam, and S is the trigger from the switch in the turn signal arm.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


USA model headlight relays did not include the "flash" function back then, they just powered up when you turned the switch on and switched between the two states - the view of the relay above shows how simple it is - just a big electromagnet that flips a toggle setup. Other markets had a more complicated relay, and this replacement relay is the modern replacement for that one.

I think you need to hook your input power to both 30 and 56. 56A to 56A, 56B to F, and S to S.


Hello & thanks for the replies, so far they are a big help.
First question though, you're saying terminal 'F' on the factory relay is lowbeam. I have the original headlight harness and the white headlight leads, specifically the L/H side, are highbeam. This according to the blue W/white stripe lead attached to that L/H harness which went to the highbeam indicator light on the speedo. Yellow on that same harness is used for low beam.
On the original relay, there's a white lead attached to the 'F' terminal and the other side of that lead went to the fuse block on the side opposite the high beam lead connections there. The yellow lead went to 56A and to the low-beam side of the fuse block.
I traced the white W/ black stripe, it does go back to the headlight switch and it was connected to terminal 56 on the old relay.
The brown W/white stripe was connected to the 'S' terminal on the old relay.

One major thing: after rebuilding the headlight harness, I function tested the headlights and they worked perfectly normal, no issues of any kind.
After a while the relay seemed to no longer properly switch between high/low beam so I figured it was the relay finally giving up the ghost, it's only 40+ years old, they will fail eventually...
I also tagged & numbered the terminal connection on each lead as I pulled them off so as not to lose track of what went where.

Also I checked the p/n of the relay I took off the car and it matches exactly the p/n of the relay in your picture, so they should be the same item. It also says 12 volt on the side and has a VW within the circle emblem on it.

I'd write all of this for a few reasons, I know enough on electrical where someone knowledgable can walk me through something like this and I understand what they're saying and/or telling me to do. Just not enough electrical knowledge on my own to DIY.
Secondly everything worked properly before this issue with what I think is the relay started. That is important, did I do the rebuild properly and the headlights worked as they should? Yes, they worked as they should so that hopefully helps narrow down where the issue is, not some other mistake elsewhere.
thirdly I'm stuck on something you posted and I don't want this to come across as sounding like "you're full of it, mines hooked up different than what you're saying" I"m not questioning what you wrote, just to make sure I have the details correct and/or understand correctly.

You wrote 56A is lowbeam and 'F' is highbeam yet my harness is exactly backwards from that. So I'm stuck somewhat there.
I will splice onto the white W/ black stripe input power from the switch and run that splice onto terminal 30 on the new relay, but I'm stuck with the high/low connections, unless I misunderstood you something doesn't quite match up.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 4:43 pm    Post subject: Re: High / Low beam relay connections. Reply with quote

There's nothing complex about the headlight circuit, as Andy mentioned the relay just toggles between the 2 terminals so it really doesn't matter if high beam is attached to 56a or f (or 56b), 56 is power in from the headlight switch (white/black wire) and white goes on one of the out terminals, yellow on the other, blue/white piggybacks on the one that supplies high beam (usually white).
Here's the bus diagram with the headlight circuit highlighted (click on it twice to make it big):

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


As for the relay slowly dying take the cover off and manipulate it by hand, as things wear you need to slightly bend that silver arm that pokes the W shaped plastic thing so it achieves full travel, or possibly the tension spring or the stops. Be careful, it doesn't take much.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 8:05 pm    Post subject: Re: High / Low beam relay connections. Reply with quote

atticus finch wrote:
You wrote 56A is lowbeam and 'F' is highbeam yet my harness is exactly backwards from that. So I'm stuck somewhat there.

First, it is best to work from the wiring diagram for your model year (1970, right?)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

This provides a consistent baseline to work from. If there are wiring difference between different model years you will be using the defacto reference for your model year.

The headlight dimmer relay is "J".
All dimmer relays have two outputs: 56a and 56b (or F). For your model year, F is for the high beam (per the wiring diagram) and 56a is low beam. This is not universal as some model years had 56a as high beam per that model year's wiring diagram (eg. '68 Beetle)

As busdaddy points out, it really doesn't matter which output is connected to high or low beam (except for being 100% compliant with the wiring diagram). The dimmer relay is a latching relay. This means energizing the relay serves to just switch the output and the input is always connected to one of the output terminals. Unlike other relays which have a "normally open (NO)" and/or "normally closed (NC)" output, this relay has neither. When not powered the relay will remain connected to the last output path.


atticus finch wrote:
I will splice onto the white W/ black stripe input power from the switch and run that splice onto terminal 30 on the new relay

I wasn't sure you understood the need to power the extra #30 terminal on your new dimmer relay...
The #30 terminal should be connected to a constant 12v+ power source. You can add a splice to one of the red wires coming off the fuse box (fuse #9 or #10).
This wire provides power to the relay even when the ignition is OFF. This allows the dimmer relay to flash the headlights with just the pull of the turn signal lever, even when parked.
If you don't need this function you may need to jumper the #30 terminal to the #56 terminal so it is powered from the headlight switch. Some places (Wolfsburg West?) offer a terminal splitter with their relay that turns the #56 terminal into a dual-male terminal so a jumper wire can be added to the #30 terminal.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 2:59 pm    Post subject: Re: High / Low beam relay connections. Reply with quote

ashman40 wrote:
atticus finch wrote:
You wrote 56A is lowbeam and 'F' is highbeam yet my harness is exactly backwards from that. So I'm stuck somewhat there.

First, it is best to work from the wiring diagram for your model year (1970, right?)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

This provides a consistent baseline to work from. If there are wiring difference between different model years you will be using the defacto reference for your model year.

The headlight dimmer relay is "J".
All dimmer relays have two outputs: 56a and 56b (or F). For your model year, F is for the high beam (per the wiring diagram) and 56a is low beam. This is not universal as some model years had 56a as high beam per that model year's wiring diagram (eg. '68 Beetle)

As busdaddy points out, it really doesn't matter which output is connected to high or low beam (except for being 100% compliant with the wiring diagram). The dimmer relay is a latching relay. This means energizing the relay serves to just switch the output and the input is always connected to one of the output terminals. Unlike other relays which have a "normally open (NO)" and/or "normally closed (NC)" output, this relay has neither. When not powered the relay will remain connected to the last output path.


atticus finch wrote:
I will splice onto the white W/ black stripe input power from the switch and run that splice onto terminal 30 on the new relay

I wasn't sure you understood the need to power the extra #30 terminal on your new dimmer relay...
The #30 terminal should be connected to a constant 12v+ power source. You can add a splice to one of the red wires coming off the fuse box (fuse #9 or #10).
This wire provides power to the relay even when the ignition is OFF. This allows the dimmer relay to flash the headlights with just the pull of the turn signal lever, even when parked.
If you don't need this function you may need to jumper the #30 terminal to the #56 terminal so it is powered from the headlight switch. Some places (Wolfsburg West?) offer a terminal splitter with their relay that turns the #56 terminal into a dual-male terminal so a jumper wire can be added to the #30 terminal.


Finally got a chance to get back to this. Yes that is the correct harness diagram.
I don't need the flash function so as was suggested or if it is mandatory I'll splice a lead from the headlight power onto terminal 30.
I'm not sure what terminal 30 does, if terminal 56 on the old relay powers the relay, why would the new one need power on another connection?
It operates differently or something? Regardless if that is what I need to do I'll do so.

to make sure I understand everything correctly, the following are the connections I'll make:

1) Terminal 56 (input power from headlight switch) on the oem relay to terminal 56 on the new relay W/ splice for power to terminal 30 on the new relay.
2) Terminal 'S' (dimmer switch) on oem relay connected to terminal 'S' on the new relay.
3) Terminal 56A (low beam) on the oem relay connected 56A on the new relay
4) Terminal 'F' (high beam) on the oem relay connected to terminal 56B on the new relay.

If that is a correct understanding of the connections and how they need to be done, that's what I'll do.
That keeps things close to factory or oem with the exception of 'F' going to 56B & easy enough for me to remember what was done should I have to work on the relay and/or headlights later on.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 3:42 pm    Post subject: Re: High / Low beam relay connections. Reply with quote

atticus finch wrote:


Finally got a chance to get back to this. Yes that is the correct harness diagram.
I don't need the flash function so as was suggested or if it is mandatory I'll splice a lead from the headlight power onto terminal 30.
I'm not sure what terminal 30 does, if terminal 56 on the old relay powers the relay, why would the new one need power on another connection?


In VW wiring land, terminal 30 is always unswitched power from the battery. Meaning it's power regardless of whether the ignition switch is turned on or off.

The flash function is not mandatory but it's nice to have.

On the headlight relay terminal 30 powers the flash function. Normally power only comes into the relay on 56 when the headlight switch is turned on.

If you connect battery power to terminal 30, that lets you flash the high beams anytime whether the headlights are on or off. This feature is known as flash-to-pass. It's commonly used on European highways to signal to the driver in front of you that you intend to pass. It can also be used in dark parking lots or under bridges to signal the spy that you are meeting as to which car you are in.

The worst that will happen if you don't hook anything up to 30 is that your flash-to-pass function will not work.

Note that if you do connect power to 30 but your low and high beam wires are swapped at the relay, the flash-to-pass will flash your low beams instead of your high beams. It's supposed to flash your high beams.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 4:07 pm    Post subject: Re: High / Low beam relay connections. Reply with quote

You have to power #30 with something on those relays, it won't work at all if not, a jumper to 56 will make it function just like your old one once did. The rest of your propoed wiring sounds correct.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 5:37 pm    Post subject: Re: High / Low beam relay connections. Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
You have to power #30 with something on those relays, it won't work at all if not, a jumper to 56 will make it function just like your old one once did. The rest of your propoed wiring sounds correct.


I thought it would work fine without 30? On whatever year they discontinued flash-to-pass for USA cars didn't they just use the same relay but deleted terminal 30?

Hmm I should have referenced the older wiring diagrams before posting, I was misremembering a detail: The cars with flash-to-pass had another terminal called J which is where the big red wire came in to power headlights for flash-to-pass and that had a small red wire jumper from J to 30, presumably to power the relay itself.

Which now makes me confused as a flash-to-pass-capable relay should have 2 additional terminals compared to the USA relay, J and 30 - but this one only has 30.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 6:13 pm    Post subject: Re: High / Low beam relay connections. Reply with quote

#30 powers both the relay coil and the headlights on these relays, there's been many cases here recently where someone bought one as a replacement for the non flash unit (seems most suppliers ship it now) and it wouldn't work until #30 had power added somehow.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 7:08 pm    Post subject: Re: High / Low beam relay connections. Reply with quote

sjbartnik wrote:

I thought it would work fine without 30? On whatever year they discontinued flash-to-pass for USA cars didn't they just use the same relay but deleted terminal 30?
.


They didn't really discontinue it. Rather they added it for certain countries much earlier than it was included on USA vehicles. The USA relay was simpler (and surely cheaper) than the ones used in those countries. Back when they had a floor switch, Euro Ghia models had a relay just for the flash-to-pass. When they decided to use that switch for high/low beams as well, they had to include both functions into the same relay, but not in the USA, where a simpler relay could be used.

Even the smaller size relays like the 321941583 in the late 1970s were no-flash, just S, 56, 56A and 56B, just a miniaturized version of the one in the photo I posted above - an electromagnet and toggle operated SPDT points. They had a "30" stamped on the terminal plate but no terminal or open slot next to it - the guts would have needed another set of contacts and different wiring for that to have worked, so it was more than just not having a terminal on there.

-Andy
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2016 1:03 pm    Post subject: Re: High / Low beam relay connections. Reply with quote

atticus finch wrote:
I'm not sure what terminal 30 does, if terminal 56 on the old relay powers the relay, why would the new one need power on another connection?
It operates differently or something?

You replaced your 4-prong dimmer relay with a 5-prong one. They are obviously not the same, but the 5-prong can be made to work the same as described above.


{OP, disregard this section as I don't want to confuse you more. This is just to point out that VW may have used different 5-prong dimmer relays in different model years}
busdaddy wrote:
You have to power #30 with something on those relays, it won't work at all if not, a jumper to 56 will make it function just like your old one once did. The rest of your propoed wiring sounds correct.

I actually believed this to be true but there may be another version of the dimmer relay with the #30 terminal but it only served to power the flash function and was not required to power the headlights. The give away is the gauge of the wires. Take a look at this diagram for a non-US mid-70's 1200:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

You can see "J" is the dimmer relay and it has a #30 terminal. Look at the wire gauge numbers on the red (#30) wire and the white/black (#56) wire. The white/black wire from the headlight switch is much heavier gauge (2.5mm^2) indicating it is carrying the load of the headlights. The red #30 wire is much smaller gauge (1.5mm^2) meant only for a momentary load to flash the high beams on #56a.

This '71 SuperBeetle (European?) wiring diagram has a 5-prong dimmer relay but here the #30 red wire is the same 2.5mm^2 gauge as the white/black wire indicating it may be the power source for the headlights.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

It also has dotted lines indicating the 56b and F terminals can be swapped. So don't get too hung up on which wire connects to high or low beams. Just realize the #56a, #56b and F are the outputs.

The aftermarket 5-prong dimmer I used required that #30 terminal have power or else the headlights wold not turn ON.
[img]
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
[/img]


sjbartnik wrote:
Hmm I should have referenced the older wiring diagrams before posting, I was misremembering a detail: The cars with flash-to-pass had another terminal called J which is where the big red wire came in to power headlights for flash-to-pass and that had a small red wire jumper from J to 30, presumably to power the relay itself.

Which now makes me confused as a flash-to-pass-capable relay should have 2 additional terminals compared to the USA relay, J and 30 - but this one only has 30.

Do you have a link to a wiring diagram or photo of a 6-prong dimmer relay? Are you suse the "J" didn't represent the whole relay? On the wiring diagrams J is the identifier for the dimmer relay.
I don't see why an extra 6th terminal would be needed. The dimmer switch provides a switched ground. Power comes in either from the headlight switch or the #30 terminal. With power and ground the relay can be energized. Remember that this type of latching relay has a constant path between the input(s) and one of the outputs. Energizing the relay only switches the output... or in the case of the flash function it will momentarily energize the high beam output. Really, this 5-prong relay is like multiple relays in one.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2016 1:18 pm    Post subject: Re: High / Low beam relay connections. Reply with quote

ashman40 wrote:

Do you have a link to a wiring diagram or photo of a 6-prong dimmer relay? Are you suse the "J" didn't represent the whole relay? On the wiring diagrams J is the identifier for the dimmer relay.


Yeah check out the wiring diagram for a '67 Beetle with flash-to-pass. I have excerpted the headlight relay below:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Note that there is a heavy gauge red wire to terminal J on the relay which must be power for the lights themselves as it is a big wire. Then there is a small jumper wire from J over to 30 which I can only assume must be to energize the relay coil when headlight switch is off a la flash-to-pass.

This is the same type of relay I have on my Squareback.

It looks like this (shamelessly stolen from someone's ad) though this is the 6v version:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Maybe on later or aftermarket relays they were able to eliminate terminal J and just make the connection internally rather than having the jumper wire?
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2016 3:39 pm    Post subject: Re: High / Low beam relay connections. Reply with quote

See lf this helps
DWP
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 9:28 am    Post subject: Re: High / Low beam relay connections. Reply with quote

ashman40 wrote:
atticus finch wrote:
I'm not sure what terminal 30 does, if terminal 56 on the old relay powers the relay, why would the new one need power on another connection?
It operates differently or something?

You replaced your 4-prong dimmer relay with a 5-prong one. They are obviously not the same, but the 5-prong can be made to work the same as described above.


{OP, disregard this section as I don't want to confuse you more. This is just to point out that VW may have used different 5-prong dimmer relays in different model years}
busdaddy wrote:
You have to power #30 with something on those relays, it won't work at all if not, a jumper to 56 will make it function just like your old one once did. The rest of your propoed wiring sounds correct.

I actually believed this to be true but there may be another version of the dimmer relay with the #30 terminal but it only served to power the flash function and was not required to power the headlights. The give away is the gauge of the wires. Take a look at this diagram for a non-US mid-70's 1200:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

You can see "J" is the dimmer relay and it has a #30 terminal. Look at the wire gauge numbers on the red (#30) wire and the white/black (#56) wire. The white/black wire from the headlight switch is much heavier gauge (2.5mm^2) indicating it is carrying the load of the headlights. The red #30 wire is much smaller gauge (1.5mm^2) meant only for a momentary load to flash the high beams on #56a.

This '71 SuperBeetle (European?) wiring diagram has a 5-prong dimmer relay but here the #30 red wire is the same 2.5mm^2 gauge as the white/black wire indicating it may be the power source for the headlights.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

It also has dotted lines indicating the 56b and F terminals can be swapped. So don't get too hung up on which wire connects to high or low beams. Just realize the #56a, #56b and F are the outputs.

The aftermarket 5-prong dimmer I used required that #30 terminal have power or else the headlights wold not turn ON.
[img]
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
[/img]


sjbartnik wrote:
Hmm I should have referenced the older wiring diagrams before posting, I was misremembering a detail: The cars with flash-to-pass had another terminal called J which is where the big red wire came in to power headlights for flash-to-pass and that had a small red wire jumper from J to 30, presumably to power the relay itself.

Which now makes me confused as a flash-to-pass-capable relay should have 2 additional terminals compared to the USA relay, J and 30 - but this one only has 30.

Do you have a link to a wiring diagram or photo of a 6-prong dimmer relay? Are you suse the "J" didn't represent the whole relay? On the wiring diagrams J is the identifier for the dimmer relay.
I don't see why an extra 6th terminal would be needed. The dimmer switch provides a switched ground. Power comes in either from the headlight switch or the #30 terminal. With power and ground the relay can be energized. Remember that this type of latching relay has a constant path between the input(s) and one of the outputs. Energizing the relay only switches the output... or in the case of the flash function it will momentarily energize the high beam output. Really, this 5-prong relay is like multiple relays in one.


Ashman, JACKPOT!!!
That replacement relay with the schematic printed on side you've posted is the exact relay I purchased. Same schematic and P/N. So with that in mind, is what I wrote previously in terms of what connections I need to make and/or are going to make correct?

Also, On the schematic, the #30 terminal and 'S" are connected to the large square with the diagonal slash through it. I'm figuring that rectangle represents the electromagnet which would operate the switch depicted on the R/H side of the schematic?
Just below that squarethere is a smaller rectangle which is connected between terminal 30 & S. I'd say connected in shunt relative to the square with the diagonal slash through it however that rectangle is not a normal symbol for a resistor, any ideas what that rectangle represents and/or does?
Is it part of the operating side of the electromagnet and hence the reason terminal 30 has to be powered for the relay to work?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 9:42 am    Post subject: Re: High / Low beam relay connections. Reply with quote

atticus finch wrote:
Just below that squarethere is a smaller rectangle which is connected between terminal 30 & S. I'd say connected in shunt relative to the square with the diagonal slash through it however that rectangle is not a normal symbol for a resistor, any ideas what that rectangle represents and/or does? Is it part of the operating side of the electromagnet and hence the reason terminal 30 has to be powered for the relay to work?

It's a resistor to dampen arcing at the column switch and supress radio interference, just like the one between S and 56 here:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 10:42 am    Post subject: Re: High / Low beam relay connections. Reply with quote

Yep, and here's a view of a later, smaller relay showing it as well.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 7:48 pm    Post subject: Re: High / Low beam relay connections. Reply with quote

Yup! As others have shown, there is a resistor there to reduce arcing. Here is the internals of that same DNI aftermarket relay I posted. You can see the resistor at the left .
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


From the schematic on the case:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

    #56 = (white/black wire) from the headlight switch. This input powers the headlights. But doesn't appear to power the relay.
    #30 = constant 12v (red wire). This powers the coil and will momentaryly power the #56a terminal while the relay is ON.
    S = switched ground (dimmer switch - brown/white). When this is grounded the relay is energized.
    #56a = high beam output (white wire). This terminal is powered while the relay is energized (flash function).
    #56b = low beam output (yellow wire).

Based on this diagram the relay will not switch outputs without power to the #30 terminal. The headlight switch will still power the currently selected headlight, but the output cannot be changed.
This is how THIS dimmer relay works. Other headlight dimmers may operate differently.
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atticus finch
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2016 4:01 pm    Post subject: Re: High / Low beam relay connections. Reply with quote

#30 terminal does need power. I connected the new relay without power on # 30 terminal but put in a splice from the headlight lead & simply left it disconnected to see what would happen. Whole lot of nothing.
Connected the splice to #30, headlights are working. I think that relay may be defective, the headlight cycled normally for a few turns then the lowbeams failed but the high beams worked reliably.
No more lowbeams after they initially quit working with the new relay, cycled the dimmer switch multiple times, nothing at all but the high beams.

SO, where did that leave me? I got another OEM relay and stared at the picture Glutamodo posted of the internals of a stock relay & looked at the points on the OEM relay. They were pitted or worn on the lowbeam side so with the cover off I plugged it in and watched it. The points were closing on the lowbeam side but no lowbeam, tapped the points with my finger and the lowbeams came on. Bad contact on the points is the issue. Cleaned the points with some 1500 grit sandpaper (just removed the divot in them for the most part) and put some light grease on the rocker cam where it contacts the actuator arm.
Low & high beams are working reliably now. I put some bulb grease on the points to hopefully seal them somewhat against corrosion, not sure if that's also what I saw on there but there was some whitish deposits on the smaller lowbeam contact in addition to a decent divot worn into it.
I'm not sure if that's "the way" to do it but the OEM relay is working reliably that I can see, the low beams come on reliably and the relay sounds like it's working a bit faster than before with some lube on the moving parts.
My thanks to everyone for the effort put up on this trying to help.
It never ceases to amaze me, the literal encyclopedic level of knowledge here and the willingness to share it in an effort to help.
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