so soon?

[cbeck]

Wanted to break in my engine this weekend... First fail, intake studs too short. You would think some one before me would have figured that out. Found longer studs at napa. The new is on the left.

Next fail was the #4 exhaust studs were too short for my full flow hose bracket. I guess the 1 5/8 header has thicker flanges.

Unwanted but needed bling to adapt the fuel hose.

Hey boss, thanks for the welding blanket.

Ran out of room down low. Put some tabs on the cooler and it jumped out of my hands and latched onto the passenger side, used a cold beer to coax it over behind my head out of my site lines.

Used adele? clamps to anchor the cooler hoses.[ no zip ties this time]

Ran into some issues with the linkage kit that came with the carbs. Offset linkage with non-offset manifolds? Used both spacers on the left side and the drop rods are almost perfect side to side. Once I start tuning I may need to come up with something else.

Now if I could remember which fuel pump fitting is which...

[dustymojave]

"Adel" clamps...


Progress continues, even if "nothing in life is ever EZ".

_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[cbeck]

More to file under nuttins ez anymore. The igniter stopped igniting. Pertronix puts a 30 month warranty so at least that was cheap. The new rotor was not sliding all the way down on the shaft in the kultek 009.Got out the dremmel and thinned the tab inside the rotor, need to replace that. Engine fired up after twisting the dist just a little, I had removed it still attached to the clamp from the old 1915. With the 1 5/8 header, cm pushrods, straight gears, bigger heads, and higher cr this thing is effing loud. Needs tuned real bad. A few loose ends and it should move around the block on it's own this weekend. Starting to see some light at the end of the tunnel for mock up.

[pullstart]

So I found your build thread and read the whole thing last night and this morning. Wow, you undersold yourself on my beam question posts! I'm glad the hit and run incident was finally worked out and hope the best for your "move around the block on it's own this weekend"!

[dustymojave]

Are you running it on premium gas with the higher CR? If it's much above 8.0, it likely needs at least premium gas, if not octane booster or race gas. For a vehicle driven on the street with a VW type 1 engine, I like to keep the CR at 9.0 or lower to avoid need for race gas.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[dustymojave]

[pullstart]

[cbeck]

And this past week I started learning about offset vs straight manifold linkage

[cbeck]

Build sheet said 0 deck, 060 copper head shims and 51 cc chambers for 9.4 to 1. 93 pump gas. Builder wants me to read the plugs before I start it again. Started the process by changing the mains to 140. So far I have just 20 minutes at 2500 for the cam break in. No other tuning or adjusting yet. Drain plug temp was at 200* with 45 psi oil pressure at 2500 rpm, so far so good. Not a daily driver, play toy. I am having my mid life crisis with all the neat stuff that was high tech back in the 80's. Back then I had a 71 baja, then a 64 1/2 baja, and then a slammed 63. Wish I still had any of those.

[cbeck]

Moved under it's own power for the first time in almost a year. Still have to do a thousand and one things to do before breaking it down. Next up is figuring out the jacked up carb linkage. Some body said they wanted to see what all the small component pics have added up to.[ I know you guys like pics]

[dustymojave]

[Bashr52]

[cbeck]

Build sheet states-
040 shim under cylinders
0 deck on the cylinder
060 copper for a perceived deck of 060
51cc heads
9.4-1 comp

[dustymojave]

OK...Makes sense now.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[cbeck]

The linkage that came with the carbs was not working out. The left carb was only opening about 80%. Some suggested using the cps center pull linkage. That would also require me to move the coil. Modified a set of old hex bar mounts so my linkage hangs at 90* however you measure it.

[cbeck]

My buddy with the bender isn't available to do the rear bumper until the end of november. That is about the only thing left before I break it down to clean and finish weld. Vented the filler neck and the right valve cover.

Lost about 5" of ride height after installing all the stuff. Cranked the rear torsions up another 7*. Think I want to go another 3* when it goes back together. That should leave about 3" droop from ride height with fuel, people, ect.

Made a const. paper template for the bed.

Never really dawned on me until I pulled the template that I may have gone about it wrong. Went to install the aluminum...

Onto plan b.

Going to pick up a piece of aluminum flat stack to reinforce the splice.

[Bashr52]

[cbeck]

Thanks for the link. The plates I modified had the pivots in the same place. Notice the different length spacers at the bottom of the cross bars? The dainty linkage does not inspire confidance in me. I used the short spacers on each side hoping for the same flex on each side. Well,that and my budget is so blown and this was free.

[pullstart]

still waiting on the back bumper?

When you made the mounts for the rear shocks, I read between you and Dusty Mojave that some cycling might be in order to figure out if they are mounted well or if a mount needs to move to prevent binding. have you had to change anything? what kind of shocks / measurements are they?

[cbeck]

Yes, I cut out the first attempt and installed the shock mounts so the bolts are parallel to the trailing arm bolts. The shocks are 10" travel bilsteins #7110s05. I went with this travel to go with the type 2 cvs. If i go with 930 cvs some time I will need longer travel shocks and more mods for more travel . These measure at 26.06 extended and 16.03 compressed. Got em from eshocks at 144 each.