Pedal assembly questions/issues?

[CHenige]

We put the master cylinder and pedal assembly back together tonight. I see two issues. First the accelerator arm has a lot of sideways movement. Does not seem right. All there is to it is a flat stock bar inbetween two bosses on the casting with a pin to rotate around. I took the photos without moving the camera. Am I missing something or is this the way it is?

The other issue is the clutch pedal is rearward of the brake pedal about 1.5". Is this right?

[Dale M.]

Typically throttle pedal is pretty sloppy in casting becasue the bar is usually attached to a pedal on floor in stock VW to stabilize it.... You could shim it with washers for more stability... This is what I do with "roller pedal"... Note accelerator assembly in picture below about pedal stops ...

The clutch and brake pedals should align,... The clutch pedal and brake pedal relies on stop bolted to floor pan... There is tabs on base of pedals to engage stop...

One should probably align pedals against stop then adjust (set up) clutch and brake linkages accordingly...

One thing to avoid is not having enough free play in brake pedal pushrod, if plunger in master cylinder can not come all the way back it blocks the port into previous and causes a pressure build up that will actually lock up the brakes as you drive...

Dale
_________________
“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[CHenige]

It has a bar stock stop welded in. I will bend back the bottom of the clutch pedal to touch the stop so it is lined up.

Brake pedal free play seems right. I did notice the roller is on the wrong side of the pedal bar. I will need to find something to take up the accelerator pedal slop.

Off to buy a large / long brake line to route the accelerator cable from the carb to the pedal. Already bent up a 1/2" od conduit that was in the vehicle for the clutch cable. With rerouting the cable higher and more above the floor I was able to get a couple more inches to move the pedals forward for more leg room.

[dustymojave]

I find that the stamped pedals often have that alignment issue. The stamped pedals are weaker and often bend. One of the reasons I far prefer the earlier forged pedals. I broke both the clutch and brake pedals in my '67 near stock street Bug (different incidents). Tough to drive 47 miles of stop and go traffic home from work in a car with a broken clutch or brake pedal. Both times the pedal broke near my office. I've never bent or broken a forged pedal.

The lateral slop in the throttle pedal is common. Washers are the solution. Modify the pedal if necessary, not the casting. Lube with graphite.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[Dale M.]

[CHenige]

Decided not to use the large conduit for the throttle and clutch cables. Instead using 1/4" brake line for the throttle and 5/16" for the clutch. Hoping the cables will be long enough after moving the pedals forward. Should be able to do a much straighter run. The old setup was copper pipe and electrical conduit which went way down under the floor. Pretty sure I will be able to run the throttle, clutch AND metric brake line to master cylinder between the seats.

I found this clamp which will attach to the 1.5" tube on the floor going to the pedals. Kinda pricey at $30 though. Only could find them with two cable routing holes but can add this other cable clamp to grab the third line.

Did not get anything for the rear yet since I am not sure exactly where the lines will go since the motor is not in yet for the throttle cable. I am thinking about copying the large clamp and making something in wood which is what I do. That way I can custom build it. Have some really strong stuff from South America which is almost as strong as steel. Was pallet material.

[dustymojave]

The threaded end on the clutch cable is rather long. Beware the the small diameter tube doesn't have any bends the cable end won't pass through.

Otherwise, it looks like you're doing good work. At least the wood tube clamps won't rust.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[CHenige]

Do you have a threaded end on yours? Did you have it custom made? Mine is just cut off and has the cable shortening bolt which goes on the trans.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EKUKI94/ref=pd...9TCWFWFV4Y


I just picked up a 5/16" x 72" brake line. I will cut off the rear end, slip off the fittings and run the line into the Bowden tube. then use the clamps to hold in place in front and the rear of the seats. Do not think I will need to bend the line between the seats unless the seat belt gets in the way.

[Dale M.]

The EMPI kit is crap....... I would run from it as far as you can....

Look in the KIT CAR section for solutions for shortening clutch cable as its a common occurrence to work with shortened cable in Manx style buggies and "kit cars"...

This method is populat in kit cars...

Some ideas here...

http://images.lmgtfy.com/?q=shorten+VW+clutch+cable

This would be awesome to make... The clamp ends are from Harbor Freight

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7708551#7708551

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=threaded+eye+terminal

Ultimately a custom cable is probably best, but you have to have length correct to order...

This company used to make VW specific cables...
http://www.push-pull.com/

Dale
_________________
“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[CHenige]

Are they bad because the cable goes into it at a 90 * angle? I believe our cable may end up being an inch or so short and the end is frayed a bit. Guess I should think about solution.

[Dale M.]

What you do not want about 7 miles from trailer....

Dale
_________________
“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[CHenige]

ordered a cable, cable wing nut and off to harbor freight soon. Will drill out the threaded eye and weld in the 7mm rod from the cable.

[dustymojave]

This is how it's done on my Hi Jumper and the cable I put in it in the 70s is still just fine,

The loop is horizontal under the driver's seat between cable guide tubes.

There are certainly more elegant ways to do it. Most all of which are vastly more expensive.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[CHenige]

Right now the plan is to cut off the new cable threaded end leaving 8" or so of cable. Rout the new cable through the 5/16" brake line from the front. Cut off the extra length of cable and then use wire rope clamps to connect the long cable to the short cable at the correct length.

Sometime in the future gonna visit Harbor freight and get the threaded eye terminal, cut off the end, drill for 7mm cable end and have welded together.

[Dale M.]

[dustymojave]

just take a good wrap of electrical tape around stubby ends when done so they do not become frayed and become a item to catch on things...

Better yet...
Hold the cable taught, and cut it with a welding tip on an acetylene torch. That way, the ends do not fray. I also use this method to cut the cable type HD throttle cables (not single strand wire type).
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[Dale M.]