pdsit 2 and 3 carbs after rebuild adjustments

[easyriderknucklehead]

I rebuilt my dual carbs pdsit 2 and 3 on my type 4 in 1973 bus and it runs a little rich . I read colin s and other vw forum from internet but having trouble getting the vacuum guage to go into the green it sits around 7 and drops if I accelerate the throttle . I tried messing with the idle and air screw on top of left carb and the fuel mixture as well on side but no luck.
I also not too certain of the 10 mm nut on the linkage that jumps the idle high how it really works . any ideas and help would be appreciated. my first carb re built got kit from c1pi and used aviation on gaskets as well to be certain of vacuum leaks

[Tcash]

thanks to amskeptic
Final Factory Dual Carb Adjustment Procedure

[Amskeptic]

[easyriderknucklehead]

thanks for the advice sorry I forgot to mention the engine is from a 74 I guess , I did try tuning it again today and noticed it runs o k got some response but still have trouble with lowering idle I am sitting around 1500 .I just read Richard atwells adjustment now and will try again and have a Bentley manual too but just stressfull with carbs as I don t get response from adjustments as quick
By the way I notice the main drivers side pdsit-2 had a small leak around the bottom of the pump near the rear of the carb area and when I adjusted the mixture where I couldn t see fuel constantly going down into carb it was dry after and think I cured the problem .??? YOU THINK???
do I adjust the idle first by the 8mm nuts and throttle off on carbs then go to mixture ??
also I still wanna take it to a vw specialist I think to see how I did after and will it mess up my engine too rich or lean after a 500 km drive or so if I stop and cool it a few times and check things out.

last week I had a ski doo catch fire cause of carb issues and it took 10 minutes to all go before fire department got to it

[blue77bay]

dude there is a specific order of adjustment ,you just dont get in and start screwing with shit,i suggest you go back and read colin's set up guide and start again,it also sounds as tho you have an air leak. There is a section in bently that tells you exactly how to adjust the choke linkage ,which is those pesky little 8mm nuts.
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[easyriderknucklehead]

I was out there again today got the idle down to 1500 with linkage off and fast idle not touching and the small nuts all the way down to max on link.
I noticed the gas from left carb when we turn the bus engine off starts filling up in the carb and that is where my leak begins -gasoline coming out for a minute under the carb rear where I put new gaskets for the pump thing from the kit and used the airplane gasket stuff someone recommended to boot.

I think the carbs sound great and have good response and that no backfires and the mixture is o k I think no smoke but I also can not find anyone with a snail in this town to get the air perfect and begin with colin s tips on proper tune up.
I just need help and advice on how to stop the leak and was wondering if it has to do with the removal of the shut off selonoids on the carbs that I just plugged like someone recommended as they where stripped on the carbs both. the right carb does not have the problem with the fuel not shutting off after and no leaks. I suppose I could use j b weld and try to weld the fuel shut off into the carb maybe . what you guys think.
I just need it to get to delta to the bug shop so ed can fix it right. no fires on the way.

[blue77bay]

those solenoids are actually idle jets and either them or an idle jet MUST be in place ,without them anything else is meaningless
_________________
I like hammers. Lots of hammers. Hammers and me go way back.
A large hammer collection is like an instant problem solver
Mark tucker wrote:,wack off as needed

[tootype2crazy]

Move into the easy adjustment zone and put EMPI EPC/Weber ICT's on it. The empis are better because weber's tooling is worn out. We put 100s of them on people's cars at the shop and they are great. Adjust and jet them once and you are good to go, have to add a balance tube to the manifolds though. They adjust like a typical carb with a mixture screw and an idle screw. Saving yourself the headache of adjusting and maintaining temperamental pdsits is worth the money for the swap. The pdsit's are worth a rat's patoot. Many old timers that used to work at the dealer will tell you so . Don't let the purists fool you. The EPC's are the way to go on a 1700 or 1800. Let the hate begin!

http://www.amazon.com/EMPI-47-7412-0-Dual-CARB-1700-2000cc/dp/B00BBJUHFW
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air-cooled or nothing for me
1978 Sunroof Deluxe Bus (daily driver)
1978 Transporter (mom's, making into a camper)
1970 Single Cab 2.1 turbo/EFI 6 Rib, 78 front beam, vanagon backing plates on rear (project)
2001 GTI VR6 (wife's)

[1967250s]

[easyriderknucklehead]

thanks for the input guys I got the leak fixed today (the main jet plug was leaking so I tightened it more) it may have been the float too I put new needle in from the kit I didn t change last time )

as I had the carb off I still have this high idle issue (I did try the adjustment on the flap with the choke closed as in manual and it is adjusted completely closed and still not able to get the screw to touch the carb for the adjustment to open even if I needed to) the flap is closed tight and the screw has a small gap before it can touch and the arm with the nuts for adjustment are at the bottom . I wonder if when I rebuilt the carb last I didn t put the choke or something in properly.... but it works fine closed when cold and opens when warmed up???
The good news is it doesn t leak and idles highat 1400 now which makes shifting tough but how ever I can bring it to 1000 if I plug the hose from the top of the carb to the air horn cleaner on main left carb. I also notice I do have good vacuum on that if I screw the idle screw out but idle goes up and really starts sucking it seems to be all the way in and idle lowest at 1400 or I just plug it maybe if its o k. test run was o k today but higher speed was bogging a bit so I unscrewed the idle screw micture out a bit and will try again tommorrw after more reading

[1967250s]

Ok, if you have followed amskeptics tune up, did you reset the timing? Kinda sounds like now the carbs are kinda sorted and you have proper vacuum(both advance and retard?), the timing is too advanced at idle. Often, one must backtrack to the beginning and recheck all the settings. Forgot to ask- do you still have the OG distributor and does the advance and retard work on the vacuum can? Advanced timing will raise your idle, and could easily give too much advance and cause detonation, also causing your hesitation.
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'72 Elm Green Deluxe

[easyriderknucklehead]

hey thanks good to hear I am getting close and the vacuum is working so I did something right for mt first carb rebuid. cool
I wish I had a timing gun to check that however and am left with the idle high for now but that sounds simple if I can get it done around here.

[Amskeptic]

Expect a fast idle if your distributor does not have a functional vacuum retard unit. If your timing is at 10* AFTER TDC at idle, then you will be able to adjust the speed to 950-1,000 rpm. This assumes of course, that the choke fast idle links are not pushing the throttles.

In answer to the exhortations to install different carbs:

do they have proper brake booster take-offs?

do they have proper breather hose attachment?

do they have provision to take fuel tank vapors?

do they have linkages engineered to handle engine expansion/contraction without losing synchronization?

do they have adequate air filtration?

and optionally but sure is nice:

do they have thermostatically-controlled air preheat?

do they have chokes for instant light-off on the coldest mornings?

Yeah, didn't think so.
Colin
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