First rebuild of 1500 SP.

[Sharp64]

I picked up a 64 Beetle back in October and finally got it running decent. Has a stock 1300 in it, or at least that's what its supposed to be. I wanted to build/rebuild and engine, but didn't want to take the car off the road for an extended length of time so I purchased a 1500 single port local off of Craigslist. I'm terrible at documenting stuff like this, but will try.

Here is the engine as it sits:

Its a bit dirty, but turns, none of the fins on the cylinders appear to be broken/missing and the valves don't seem to be frozen. Turns by hand so and I can hear the valves opening and closing. Has oil in it, albeit dirty as all get out. I would say something was possibly done to it at some point because a lot of the tins are a matte/flat finish that doesn't look factory. Also, the manifold has been painted black. It came out of a bus/truck.

My plan originally was to just to get it running, add some things like dual carbs, jtubes, higher flow exhaust, doghouse fan shroud etc, but the more I think about it, I have no idea the condition obviously and I would like to learn how to do it, so going to attempt a rebuild.

I am VERY new at this. Had a bug almost 30 years ago, but it ran like a top the entire time I had it with nothing more than regular maintenance so never had to really dig into it. Gaines some experience with the latest bug acquisition, but still have a LOT to learn.

Going forward, I have the John Muir book which has a section on overhauling the engine. I was also considering getting : http://www.barnesandnoble.com/p/rebuild-aircooled-...id=3x23138 as well. Alternately, I may get the Bentley manual for this motor, but would the Wilson one and the Muir suffice? I figured between those two and the interwebs I should be ok.

Tools that I know I still need to get:

Engine stand (possibly with VW yoke)
Torque wrench

Tools that I think I still need to get:

Compression gauge
Bore gauge set
Clutch alignment tool

This is just a list of special tools. I have plenty of screwdrivers, wrenches, persuaders etc.


Current issues that I see:

1. Unknown condition of Generator. Guess there isn't much I can do with this right now besides cleaning it up and possibly replacing the brushes as a precaution?

2. Some side to side play in the carb, and more front to back/up and down play than in the carb currently on the bug. Really a non-issue as I plan on buying duals anyways.

3. Missing some engine tin like the breast plate. Going without heat on this one, so again not a real issue I guess.

4. Fan spins, but not as freely as I think it should. Plan is to go with doghouse so again, not a real issue.


Basic configuration is going to be:

1. Stock P&C's. Need to figure out how to inspect or should I just replace? Was considering going with forged, but may just stick with standard cast. Probably Mahle.
2. Converting to doghouse. Need to gather list of parts for this.
3. JTubes with undetermined exhaust. Leaning towards either a quiet pack or: http://www.jbugs.com/product/3418.html?Category_Code=1966-vw-bug-performance-exhaust
4. Dual carbs, from what I have read up, 34ICT's from Aircooled.net. Will to check fuel pressure and possible get a regulator.
5. Stock 205K distributor. Need to have carbs tapped for vacuum.
6. Staying 6 volt so no change of flywheel?
7. Replace clutch since its out anyways. No idea what kind to go with, but guessing not a lot of options if 6volt?
8. Stock heads. No idea how to check to see if what is on the motor is good or not? I know I can get rebuilt ones for about $200 if I send these in.
9. Replacing seals? I guess I will find out more on this once I start reading more into this.
10. Determine whether the engine has case savers installed. If not, complete tear down so they can be installed.
11. Stock cam? Have read a few threads about the CB Cheater Cam? Worth it in a stockish setup? If I were to keep the stock cam, how do you determine if its still ok?

Any thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated. I know this is long and rambling, but doing this as much as for myself as giving me a place to ask questions. I know a lot of these may be answered elsewhere and in the books, but if someone feels like chiming in anyways I would appreciate it. If I don't see answers, I promise to do my due diligence to find them before posting them up.

Edit* in my searching for some general rebuild threads, I came across this one: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=451260 . Holy crap, how well documented, but also the amount of work this guy did for a full rebuild. Not going to lie, I am beginning to wonder if I have bitten off more than I can chew. This may get interesting.

Thanks in advance for any help.

[67rustavenger]

The Fisher book is highly recommended. Also get a Bentley manual.
Don't be afraid to dig into an engine rebuild. These are pretty simple and fun to work on.
I built a 1776 back in 1998 and found it to be a bit challenging at first. With the proper books I was able to complete my rebuild. It ran pretty well. I did the dual ITC setup with dual port heads.
I currently have a 1500/1600 single port engine in one of my cars. I have been contemplating a tear down and refresh.
Good Luck.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[Sharp64]

[gt1953]

Do take your time. Read several books, watch videos, if unsure have a shop that does air cooled work assist with some of the assembly.
A stock sixteen hundred single port will last a long time.
_________________
Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.

72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold})

[Sharp64]

Are there any "must have" work/items that may seem optional? I.E. case savers. My plan is to ultimately replace the 1300 that's in it now with this motor so I do want it to last.

[neil68]

I highly recommend Tom Wilson's book: "How to Rebuild Your Aircooled VW Engine". He clearly explains everything about engine removal, rebuild and installation, while also pointing out common problems and mistakes. It's loaded with photos.

You can still find this book in almost every bookstore and online.
_________________
Neil.

Der Kleiner Rennwagens
68 Beetle 2332 cc, 204 WHP
12.5 seconds @ 107 mph
Dynojet Test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9B_H3eklAo

[Sharp64]

[neil68]

To this day, I still like to use the Wilson book every time I work on my engines, whether it's my stock 1500 cc or my 2332 cc rebuild or freshening up. One can sometimes get in a hurry and forget a step or sequence, so having the book on the work bench reminds me to check everything twice. It prevents having to back track

Good luck with your engine and let us know how it goes!
_________________
Neil.

Der Kleiner Rennwagens
68 Beetle 2332 cc, 204 WHP
12.5 seconds @ 107 mph
Dynojet Test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9B_H3eklAo

[Tortjam]

Get the Wilson book and the Bug Me video(Tear Down and Assembly). I was in your shoes a year ago and just fired up my freshly rebuilt motor( SP 1500 converted to a DP 1600 w/ doghouse cooler). The book and video will get you most of what you need to know. The Samba and YouTube will take care of the rest. VW specific tools make it easier-gland nut removal tool, oil pump puller, case splitter, lifter clips, flywheel lock, end play gauge, engine yoke. Find a reputable machine shop(one that specializes in VWs) after you disassemble and clean the case. They will inspect and align bore the case, install case savers, polish the crank, size the bearings, recondition heads, etc Keep it simple and take your time. You will learn a ton and have a greater appreciation for AC VWs.

[Danwvw]

Just looked at your photos, What a nice little car. I think you did the right thing getting another engine so your not down long.

That Single port engine is a good engine for small displacement but not a good choice for building up into a larger displacement engine. You could probably go to 1679 cc though using the T1K 88mm Piston & Cylinders. I can't tell what your engine serial number is from the photos. I think those were F or H cases with single oil relief valves. Not the best case. Better to get a later model dual oil pressure relief case to use. But Yeah you can use the single relief cases but they can have oil pressure issues. You can kind of fix this problem with the right filter oil pump. Also the single ports run hot in the earlier cars, You could upgrade to the Dog house Fan, Shroud, and cooler flaps hook-ups etc... and make it run cool though.
_________________
1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[Sharp64]

[pwmcguire]

Before you tear it apart check the end play and remove the front pulley. Gently put a screwdriver between the case and the crankshaft at the front pulley and check for up and down movement in the crank shaft. It will help determine if it really needs rebuilt.

[Sharp64]

[MURZI]

Before you tear it all apart, remove the rocker arms and torque each head stud to spec. H cases are known for pulling head studs. You are checking for head studs that might pull out. Better to have one pull before the rebuild than after the engine is built. TRUST ME on this one. Those two little 8mm studs on either side of the cam at the rear...yeah check those too.
_________________
62 vert
2276
Tim’s welded heads
45 Dells
A1 sidewinder
Fk44 cam

[Sharp64]

[Slow 1200]

recheck your numbers, H5 would be august 67 and later, if it's nov '66 that would make it an H0, then you are a lot better off, H5 cases are the ones to avoid IMHO

[Sharp64]

[Sharp64]

Did some light removal last night to inspect a couple of things like the fuel pump, distributor etc to get and idea of what I was working with.

Dizzy is a 205T, which makes sense for the year and motor. Carb is a later 30PICT-1 with the power jet, and a Pierside fuel filter. Need to get some pics up, but I was simply amazed at how clean the inside of the fuel filter was. I mean you could eat off this thing. Very shiny with no residue.

Did notice the push tubes are pretty rusty and at least one is banged up a bit and they are all rusty so I'll be adding a set of these to my list of parts. Seems to be several different varieties so need to do some more reading as to what is suggested.

Made a call to a local machine shop about getting an estimate for getting thread savers installed. Was redirected to what I was told was "the last guy in the area even doing this". Called machine shop number two and the gentleman that I spoke to seemed very knowledgeable and questioned my need to install thread savers. Said he used to do a ton of VW work back in the day, but hadn't seen a lot over the past decade or so as interest in VWs had waned. Anyways, he said that unless the head studs were stripped and I wasn't going with anything bigger than an 85.5, there was no real reason to install the case savers? As per most people, he was more than willing to take my money if I insisted...... Thoughts?

Few pics for record:

[thechief86]

There is no need to get your machinist to install case savers.
Just get some 8mm studs, and some case savers that will thread into the 10mm holes, and it's done. I would also recommend some upgrade parts while you are building.
I'd do some 87mm pistons and jugs, and a little hotter cam, just to get a little more "go" out of the thing. Small improvements quickly add up to a noticeably stronger engine, and in many cases will even improve fuel economy because it doesn't have to work as hard as it did when stock.
_________________
"A poor workman always blames his parts... Ya gotta have skillz to hang junk." -johnnypan

[Sharp64]