Gerson rocker plates

[jason]

Anyone have problems tightening the pan bolts? I can't get them to not strip. I can only hand tighten them. They strip with 10lbs of torque. Supposed to be torqued to 14.
These are crappier than any chines nut I've ever torqued.

[67rustavenger]

[jason]

They are not cross threaded, they screw all the way in by hand. Tap them no, that would make them strip easier. It removes metal. I ran a thread chaser to get the paint out but not a tap. I wish I was doing something wrong. Not complaining about the panels, just the nuts. And by the way the nuts aren't in the same spot as stock. I know nothing is perfect so I let it go, nuts stripping less than 10 lbs I can't. I'm not knocking their product as I would take theirs over others, just saying. I made sure to check that they had good spot welds so they won't break loose later and noticed the nuts looked thin but didn't think much about it, they are like these.

[67rustavenger]

Ok! So which captive nut is giving you problems? Top? Left? Right?
or none of the above.
In your initial post you stated that the captive nut that was stripping was in a rocker panel. Or are you referring to the captive nut in the bottom of the heater channel?
Rocker panel nuts are for mounting running boards(I'm sure you know that) not the body to the pan.
I still say contact Classic Fab and find out what the situation is.
Good Luck.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[theKbStockpiler]

I'm inclined to think that you have the wrong bolts for the nuts. How loose do the threads feel when the bolts are inserted but not tightened? Do the captive threads look bad? I have bought bolts that were marked SAE and were actually metric.
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Use all safety devices including a mask.

[jason]

Rocker plates, on the bottom. They look like the nuts on right. They are Kamax, so they are correct thread and pitch. They are just crappy nuts. Two of them popped loose and started spinning before 10lbs. Gerson wont respond. Not like I'm gonna cut the reinforcement rails and then the nuts back out. I'll have to drill them all and weld in some type of shouldered nuts.

Should of bought the $30 ones everyone sells, welded in better nuts and saved the $240 difference.I wanted the correct shaped ones but you will never see them anyway, under rails.

[theKbStockpiler]

I think you have two separate issues. I have bought specialty fasteners before and now I 'test torque' them down in a gig so they can't twist off and I don't feel like killing someone when I try to do the best job and end up screwing myself. I don't' think you ruled out improper pitch/size but that is your business.

I have a hack where I use washer faced nuts and first drill a hole that is a little smaller than the washer. Then I camfer it out with a larger bit so the bolt/washer fit is practically flush. Finish it by welding it in.
_________________
My beetle is not competing with your beetle. I have the yellow beetle in my town. There is a red one, a green one ......
Use all safety devices including a mask.

[jason]

How would I rule out the proper pitch size? They are original bolts, pitch and thread are correct. The bottom plates take the proper thread and pitch chase. What else would I check? They are just cheap nuts. Gerson also won't respond to my email. He got his money so what does he care. Nothing he can really do anyway. I will have to drill and weld in nuts.