78 Convertible Fuel Injection Engine Removal

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Buying all the parts I need to replace my clutch in my 78 Convertible. I've only owned the vehicle for a couple weeks, and it's my first VW! I believe I've a got a small leak in the main seal which is causing the clutch to slip occasionally. It's not bad, but I want to enjoy the car this summer.

I've been watching the Bug Me Videos, reading my Haynes manual, and spending all hours of the day and night reading TheSamba to help guide me through the engine removal process. I'm nervous, but excited as it seems so straight forward. I also look forward to that sense of accomplish and the bragging rights attached to removing the engine and changing the clutch.

The only concern I have, and where I hope the community can help, is how different the process is for Fuel Injected engines. Seems like 90% of it is the same, but I've read that there are "a few extra cables to unplug". I'm just concerned that I think I will have it all unhooked, and I'll snap a cable or something when it comes to pulling and dropping the engine.

Maybe I'm overthinking it and it will be very obvious once I dive in, but I'm trying to do my homework and build some confidence for when I get started.

Thanks in advance!

[Cusser]

Label EVERYTHING !!! Take some photos too.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

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[busdaddy]

Don't forget the second fuel line on the RH side above the starter, also use a small pick to lift the wire clips on the electrical plugs a little as you remove them, no need to break anything.
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[Randy in Maine]

Suggestion:

While you are in there, it would be a good time to change out the fuel lines and the fuel injector seals.

Also the battery to starter cables, the starter to the double relay cables and the chassis ground strap. Clean them using the wire wheel on a bench grinder and then coat them up with some "De-Ox" (I bought mine at the local HVAC supply place) 8 oz for$20.

I would also use this as a good excuse to have a good close look at the engine wiring harness that keeps the FI running. Pay special attention to make sure all of the "prongs" and the "sockets" on things that plug together.

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Alright, so I'm going to tackle this project starting tonight. I've read and watched as many videos as I possibly can and definitely have the steps more than memorized, so I figured I just need to dive in and get it done. It's going to rain the next couple of days, but it'll be a nice weekend, so I figured it's a good time to get started.

I plan to replace the heater cables, clutch cable and e-brake cables while the engine is out. I also have new pushrod tubes that I can replace, along with the other recommendations made in this thread.

I will be labeling EVERYTHING, and documenting, and taking my time. I'll post pics and results as I go.
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1978 Convertible Fuel Injected - Blue (originally white...wait...maybe red?)

[Randy in Maine]

I would not replace any of the cables that are not broken.

Are your pushrod tubes leaking? Do you have the spring loaded pushrod tubes?

I would replace the fuel lines and also the injector seals while the engine is out.

It would be nice to check the crankshaft freeplay and get that adjusted to the spec while you are in there. Do you know how to do that?

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[Randy in Maine]

Most of us have been doing this for a fairly long time. Pulling an engine is not such a big deal nor is repairing the stuff you need done.

My suggestion to you would be to get a hold of Colin and see just when he will be in your area.

http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=12850

There are a few tricks in not only replacing the front main seal so that it does not leak but also in setting the crankshaft enddplay back to the spec.

Replacing the pushrod tubes on a Type 1 engine either involves removing the head, replacing the pushrod tubes or seals and reinstalling the head, and lifters and such. Or installing the "spring loaded PRTs" from CB performance or someone like them.

Not really hard but it may be more than you are wiling to do at this stage of ownership.

You could and should pull the engine with a buddy the day before Colin gets there and then he could show you how to put it all back together.

I would consider that to be money well spent as you will also be able to drive the car more this summer.

Just my 2 cents.....

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Well, I got it out. It wasn't terrible, I took my time and had it out in 3 hours, alone. I labeled every cable and hose, even found two that were never connected. One is the license plate light (mine is missing), not sure what the other is, will have to review the wiring schematics.

Definitely some random things to figure out. My heater cable levers on the heater boxes are missing and the cables themselves were cut. Only one side had the pipe from the heater box to the interior of the car. Had a few stingy bolts, but nothing a little PB Blaster couldn't fix, mainly the tins!

There is a lot of oil in there, so likely one of the causes of slippage. Tomorrow I'll scrub everything clean and install the new pressure plate, clutch and throw out bearing. Going to order new transmission mounts as one is a little rough.

Appreciate all the guidance, putting it back in should be fun.
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1978 Convertible Fuel Injected - Blue (originally white...wait...maybe red?)

[awreed]

Definitely find the source of your leak. This will involve removing the flywheel, as Randy inferred. You'll want to get a few more tools for your bag if you don't have them: flywheel lock, buddy bar, torque multiplier tool, and an end play measuring tool. If there is a lot of oil everywhere it might be difficult to pin down where exactly it's coming from. Oil behind the flywheel would very likely be a bad front main seal unless a galley plug was blown out. Oil in your bell housing might suggest that the mainshaft seal has gone bad.

I know this advice is not very helpful now, but if the leaking persists when the motor is back in, I am a big proponent of the ultra violet oil dye additive. Clean the engine real good, run it, park it in the garage, turn off the lights and use the black light to find exactly where it's drooling from.

For your push rod tube problem, I would definitely go with stock style accordion tubes. A little more difficult to install, but when properly installed they won't leak.

Good luck.

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[Randy in Maine]

Big progress!

Make sure you change these out while you are doing those short injector hoses (unless you send them off to cruzinperformance for cleaning and calibration)....

http://www.busdepot.com/311198261a

It is also handy to own a 6mm x 1.0 mm tap to chase the treads in the threads in the engine tinwork. Sometimes the fresh paint needs to be cleaned out. Also I usually put a dusting of wheel bearing grease on the new screws so that I can get them out next time easier. I like the Irving ones myself.

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Thanks Randy, I plan on dropping the engine again come winter and will likely do some of the larger things. I'm going to wait to do the pushrod tubes until then, and will then pull the injectors and send them out for cleaning. I'm sure I'll have a nice list of things to manage mechanically, but also want to do some interior cleanup. It's perfect timing as I won't be driving it in the winter anyway.

I see now that I'm missing the valves on the heater boxes. PO just ran the tubes (or the one that was there) directly to the vent to the interior. It wasn't really hooked up at all, but I assume that means it would constantly be blowing heat into the interior? I'd like to eventually make the heat work.
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1978 Convertible Fuel Injected - Blue (originally white...wait...maybe red?)

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Clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, main seal all replaced. Extremely easy job, and the torque multiplier is a life saver. Scrubbed all the grease/oil off of everything and put it back together. Main seal definitely seemed worn, flywheel was in good shape.

Photos below...

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1978 Convertible Fuel Injected - Blue (originally white...wait...maybe red?)

[Lingwendil]

nice work! that clutch looked toasty! did you replace the main seal while in there too?

I've always wanted a factory efi engine, but didnt want to have to get a 75-up car to get it. they seem goofy but not too bad.
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[FeelthySanchez]

Great progress here: a month of planning & only 2 days of greasy execution.
Doing fine for a 1st timer!
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