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Rubber Duck
Samba Member
Joined: January 18, 2006
Posts: 806
Location: Pitt Meadows BC
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 Posted: Tue May 24, 2016 7:47 am Post subject: Re: Cylinders 1 & 2 not firing - Weber ICT rebuild |
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| timvw7476 wrote: |
way to ferret out the leaks,
the stripped boss in the intake manifold?
It's either "long stud" time, or helicoil time,
so you either by-pass those threads and use nuts bottom & top, (hassle
for duration of ownership) or pull the manifold,buy the metric helicoil kit,
drill out the mangled original threads & cut some fresh oversize ones for
the insert. I vote helicoil. The kit is M8x1.25, drill needed to remove old threads: 21/64" , (.328). |
Tim, so you're saying the stud has pulled out of the case? Crap.  This sounds major. Doesn't look like a lot of room to work on either. Dammit. Thanks for the info anyway. I suppose I might as well change the gaskets out to the paper or thicker ones. The ones in there right now are the thin metal ones...I wonder how much they can seal.  Dammit!
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Rubber Duck
1974 Westfalia |
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Rubber Duck
Samba Member
Joined: January 18, 2006
Posts: 806
Location: Pitt Meadows BC
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| Posted: Tue May 24, 2016 10:43 am Post subject: Re: Cylinders 1 & 2 not firing - Weber ICT rebuild |
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OK, I've calmed down a little after doing a search here on Samba. It seems that the intake manifold bolt stripping doesn't look like an engine-dropping moment at this time. However on my many searches, I found various methods of affixing the bolt down:
1. Helicoil (as Tim suggests)
2. Timesert (many people like this)
3. EZ-Lok (raygreenwood likes this)
4. Nuts bottom and top (I couldn't imagine how this could be done, how does one hold the bottom nut captive?)
5. JB-Weld (yeah, I found one fella who did this and went for many miles)
6. Get 10mm-8mm studs
In the general opinion of the experts here, what would be the easiest for a never-done-it-before novice like me? I'm leaning towards EZ-Lok cos it doesn't seem like one needs any special tools.
Either way, I think it would be quite difficult to drill at the almost 90-degree angle required. Seeing as there's a hole there already, is it conceivable to drill out the threads by hand? As in gripping the bit with vice grips and turning it slowly? It would still cut the threads right? Or is there an easier way?
Help please guys...as camping season is moments away and the girls are giving me the stinky eye (the why did you have to touch the engine daddy look). 
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Rubber Duck
1974 Westfalia
Last edited by Rubber Duck on Tue May 24, 2016 6:07 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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SGKent 
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007
Posts: 41031
Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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| Posted: Tue May 24, 2016 10:47 am Post subject: Re: Cylinders 1 & 2 not firing - Weber ICT rebuild |
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| Rubber Duck wrote: |
OK, I've called down a little after doing a search here on Samba. It seems that the intake manifold bolt stripping doesn't look like an engine-dropping moment at this time. However on my many searches, I found various methods of affixing the bolt down:
1. Helicoil (as Tim suggests)
2. Timesert (many people like this)
3. EZ-Lok (raygreenwood likes this)
4. Nuts bottom and top (I couldn't imagine how this could be done, how does one hold the bottom nut captive?)
5. JB-Weld (yeah, I found one fella who did this and went for many miles)
6. Get 10mm-8mm studs
In the general opinion of the experts here, what would be the easiest for a never-done-it-before novice like me? I'm leaning towards EZ-Lok cos it doesn't seem like one needs any special tools.
Either way, I think it would be quite difficult to drill at the almost 90-degree angle required. Seeing as there's a hole there already, is it conceivable to drill out the threads by hand? As in gripping the bit with vice grips and turning it slowly? It would still cut the threads right? Or is there an easier way?
Help please guys...as camping season is moments away and the girls are giving me the stinky eye (the why did you have to touch the engine daddy look). |
No - even the wobble in a drill bit can ruin chances of an insert. Take a small blade screwdriver and measure the depth of the thread bore. See if you can simply put in a slightly longer stud with Loctite and not overtighten it this time. I've done the same on a misc bolt here and there, we all have, so no shame.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
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Rubber Duck
Samba Member
Joined: January 18, 2006
Posts: 806
Location: Pitt Meadows BC
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| Posted: Tue May 24, 2016 11:45 am Post subject: Re: Cylinders 1 & 2 not firing - Weber ICT rebuild |
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| SGKent wrote: |
| Rubber Duck wrote: |
OK, I've called down a little after doing a search here on Samba. It seems that the intake manifold bolt stripping doesn't look like an engine-dropping moment at this time. However on my many searches, I found various methods of affixing the bolt down:
1. Helicoil (as Tim suggests)
2. Timesert (many people like this)
3. EZ-Lok (raygreenwood likes this)
4. Nuts bottom and top (I couldn't imagine how this could be done, how does one hold the bottom nut captive?)
5. JB-Weld (yeah, I found one fella who did this and went for many miles)
6. Get 10mm-8mm studs
In the general opinion of the experts here, what would be the easiest for a never-done-it-before novice like me? I'm leaning towards EZ-Lok cos it doesn't seem like one needs any special tools.
Either way, I think it would be quite difficult to drill at the almost 90-degree angle required. Seeing as there's a hole there already, is it conceivable to drill out the threads by hand? As in gripping the bit with vice grips and turning it slowly? It would still cut the threads right? Or is there an easier way?
Help please guys...as camping season is moments away and the girls are giving me the stinky eye (the why did you have to touch the engine daddy look). |
No - even the wobble in a drill bit can ruin chances of an insert. Take a small blade screwdriver and measure the depth of the thread bore. See if you can simply put in a slightly longer stud with Loctite and not overtighten it this time. I've done the same on a misc bolt here and there, we all have, so no shame. |
Ah so...none of the above. A longer stud you say? So gingerly unscrew the existing one and thread in a longer one. Seems easy enough. What do you think of the idea of using thicker gaskets than the currently thin (aluminium) ones? I remember taking these off last year to thread in the balance hose (manifold vacuum) and remember thinking...man those gaskets are aluminium and thin as heck. How much are they going to compress?
I'm really not sure how much I could've overtightened this...I used a typical 5 or 6 inch wrench, and literally used my thumb to push it. Couldn't have been more than 14"/lbs. 
I'm thinking of getting the thicker phenolic gaskets. After all, this bus only gets driven in the summertime. Would it matter much if the carbs were run a little cooler?
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Rubber Duck
1974 Westfalia |
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SGKent
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007
Posts: 41031
Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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| Posted: Tue May 24, 2016 11:59 am Post subject: Re: Cylinders 1 & 2 not firing - Weber ICT rebuild |
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I'd have no problem running phenolic spacers as long as you use new ones with new gasket material on them. They will help slow boil over in summer when you stop after a long drive.
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Rubber Duck
Samba Member
Joined: January 18, 2006
Posts: 806
Location: Pitt Meadows BC
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| Posted: Sat May 28, 2016 9:32 pm Post subject: Re: Cylinders 1 & 2 not firing - Weber ICT rebuild |
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Just thought I'd report back on what happened. Well, the local flaps didn't have any studs for me...everything had to be ordered and wait days to come. I didn't have that window of time available, so I decided to just take the manifold off and see what I could do.
What I found was shocking.
the bottom two studs could be literally unscrewed by hand! And then I double-nutted the pulled one and took it out as well.
Seriously, these things are way too short. I think they go in less than 1 cm. I have a ready stock of 12 mm bolts. I decided to first thread it in the one pulled one. Success!! It went in like butter. To clean up the threads, I went in and out a number of times...deeper than 1 cm of course, then took the bolt out, cut off the head with a cut off wheel and then double-nut screwed it home. Did the same to the two bottom ones. I left the one good one alone.
Then it was time to get the gasket in. No choice, didn't have a new gasket, so I rtv-d the gasket on both sides with high-temp rtv. Had to do it twice too, cos I had such a hard time screwing the bottom nuts in due to space constraints. I need midget fingers. I think I might need to change the gasket out eventually.
Anyway, I was getting tired, buttoned it all up, and she fired right up! No more popping!!! Yaaay!!! Success!!! So easy to time her now..:wind her up to 3,500 at 28 degrees. I could even lower my idle to about 1,000 rpm.
Even my my wife, who finally came out with a beer for me said; wow she sounds good! Took her for a drive in the rain and she responds so well. Good acceleration no popping on deceleration etc.
And thank goodness no timesert or helicoil needed. Just needed longer studs. I'm calling this a happy ending.  thanks for all the help and tips guys. 👍
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Rubber Duck
1974 Westfalia |
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