Installed kaddys, now I am too hot!

[Cribbs74]

Like the title says, after I installed the Kaddies I am experiencing cooling issues.

Engine is a stock 1600dp installed in a 1966 Bug. Currently temps in OKC are mid 80's and the engine is already warmer then I like. When temps go up I may be hosed. It's my daily driver.

Basically the dipstick is very hot after a good run. While I can grab it I would rather let it go.

I have all the tins, timing set at 7.5 degrees BTDC. Valves adjusted, points at .016" carbs synced and seem to work very well. I love the extra power!

My decklid is not vented, but I do the tennis ball thing.

What else can I do to keep this thing cool?

Ron

[Pruneman99]

If it ran cool before the swap, I would think it may be a lean issue. Or the (I assume Pict 3-4l that was on there before was running pig rich cooling the heads with raw fuel. Pull a plug and see what t looks like. Or if you have access to a sniffer, that's even better.

[bluedot]

I think you want to set your timing at full advance, not at idle. This timing difference can affect the heat a bunch.

[Cribbs74]

I had the problem all last year, I was able to tame it down after I propped the deck lid. I assumed at the time it was a 1600 in a non vented lid issue. I also sealed off every hole in the fan housing and re-did the foam on the oil cooler and installed a hoover bit where there was none before.

The new carbs have been on for about 5 days, I'll pull a plug and look. My full advance timing is erratic at best. I think it's in the 30-35 range. I could back it off some. I went the 7.5 route because I couldn't get a solid reading at full advance.

I should mention that I installed a merged header type exhaust and it really heats things up,

Perhaps I have a vacuum leak? That would lean things up...

Thanks for the help guys, I'll keep plugging away at it.

[clonebug]

I can pretty well bet that your mains will be unmarked.

I needed 140 mains on my 1600 DP in order for it to not run too lean when driving at 65-70 mph and 2800-3100 rpm.

Get a set of cheap drills from here.....

https://www.widgetsupply.com/product/BBL50.html

While not technically jet drills you can at least get an idea of what size jets you are running.
Don't trust the jets you buy either. I have had brand new jets marked 140 and they measured out at 170.........
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[ps2375]

How do you know it's "too hot" with no temp gauges installed. An oil temp at minimum or cylinder head temp at best, or even a meat thermometer in the dipstick hole....I guess Goldilocks has nothing on you.

[bugguy1967]

What's "too lean" at highway speeds? Too lean, and it won't run. The head temps get cooler as you lean out your idles. The temps are hotter with richer idles.

I say remove your distributor and check that you have that spring in your drive. That could cause your timing to be erratic. Then, set your total timing at 28-30 max. Let the timing at idle fall where it may.

[volksnhousin]

Back off the timing some: high 20’s to low 30’s BTDC range for full advance. If you are setting timing at idle set it in the 3 to 5 BTDC range instead of 7.5 and see how it does: The only timing number that really matters that should be the most accurate is your full advance number: It affects temperature most.

[Multi69s]

You are either too lean from jetting or an air leak. Any good tuner knows this. As far as your timing scatter at max advance, your disributers bushings are probably worn causing the shaft to flop around.
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Gone, but many fond memories 69 Baja Bug 2010 - 5 Rib Bus Transaxle
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[Cribbs74]

Ok,

So, you shamed me to take a proper temp reading, took the car for a spirited jaunt and used the infrared gun on the heads cyl 3/4 temp was 230 degrees and interestingly enough cyl 1/2 was 199. Ambient air temp is 80 degrees today.

Neither of those are too hot, but getting close. I was using the dipstick method as a quick down and dirty "goldilocks" check as I knew what it felt like when running the pict-3.

Multi, never confessed to being a good tuner, which is why I was seeking help. I will say your advice has weight as an air leak would likely cause the difference in head temps. My distributor is new, but it's something to keep in mind if I can't get the timing to settle down. New parts don't mean good parts.

Thanks to everyone, sorry if my newbness is annoying, I'm new to air cooled eccentricities.

Ron

[Multi69s]

cribs, comment wasn't meant for you.
_________________
69 road Bug 2110
73 Squareback - 2L, T4, Automatic W/ AC
Gone, but many fond memories 69 Baja Bug 2010 - 5 Rib Bus Transaxle
Gone but not forgotten 72 Baja Bug 2010
My builds
T4 into Squareback http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=458944&highlight=
Auto Trans Rebuild http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516066&highlight=
AC in Squareback https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...highlight=

[67rustavenger]

The head temps are low for a spirited drive. Oil temps near 215 would be right at nearing the keep an eye on it area. I have driven my 67 while the oil temps were hovering near 225-230 on a much cooler day that what you describe. The tennis ball trick will help with keeping temps in check.
Good Luck.
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[ps2375]

[Multi69s]

[Cribbs74]

Problem solved!

It was an air leak, on the drivers side carb. Took it back out and temps were 225-230 on both heads, 188 oil temp. It idles much smoother as well. I also adjusted timing to 30-32 full advance which puts me at 4 degrees BTDC at idle.

Thanks to everyone!

Ron