Author |
Message |
DeltaBravo Samba Member
Joined: February 29, 2016 Posts: 179 Location: Long Beach, CA
|
Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2016 4:01 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilding my motor |
|
|
I know it's been a while...
More will come soon, but first I need help finding something.
I need a new seal that goes between the tin and oil cooler. Where it directs air through the oil cooler.
thanks again |
|
Back to top |
|
|
SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
|
Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2016 4:31 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilding my motor |
|
|
The part number is 021 119 329 . The only place I have seen them is new thru VW of Germany Classic Car Parts . They weren't shipping to the USA and one needed to get them thru Paruzzi or VWHeritage or someone - or used. Maybe they will ship now I don't know. The current price is 11.85 EU is this is for a type 4 motor. Type 1 motors use a special high temp thin foam.
type 4
http://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/dichtung-olkuhler-typ-4.html _________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
|
Back to top |
|
|
DeltaBravo Samba Member
Joined: February 29, 2016 Posts: 179 Location: Long Beach, CA
|
Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2016 5:03 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilding my motor |
|
|
SGKent wrote: |
The part number is 021 119 329 . The only place I have seen them is new thru VW of Germany Classic Car Parts . They weren't shipping to the USA and one needed to get them thru Paruzzi or VWHeritage or someone - or used. Maybe they will ship now I don't know. The current price is 11.85 EU is this is for a type 4 motor. Type 1 motors use a special high temp thin foam.
type 4
http://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/dichtung-olkuhler-typ-4.html |
Yes, this is for the type 4 motor. I am "mocking" up parts and piece to see if I have everything and to see if the part is correct to begin with. I am finding the 'small' things now.
I didn't realize during the breakdown of this engine that it wasn't installed.
I hope I can get one, this is definitely a show stopper... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Bleyseng Samba Member
Joined: July 03, 2005 Posts: 4752 Location: Seattle
|
Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2016 6:19 am Post subject: Re: Rebuilding my motor |
|
|
http://have-a-nice-bay.nl/product_info.php?products_id=6235
They have them at Busok. _________________ 70 Ghia Black convert-9/69 build date-stock w/133k 1600 SP-barn find now with a rebuilt tranny and engine
77 Westy 2.0L w/Ljet, Camper Special engine-95hp and with LSD!(sold)
76 Porsche 914 2.1L L20c, 120hp Djet (sold)
87 Syncro Westy Titan Red 2.1L 2 knob 100k miles |
|
Back to top |
|
|
DeltaBravo Samba Member
Joined: February 29, 2016 Posts: 179 Location: Long Beach, CA
|
Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2016 11:10 am Post subject: Re: Rebuilding my motor |
|
|
Great news guys...
BusDepot has (had) four of them in stock...now they only have three.
Thanks for the help.
Damon |
|
Back to top |
|
|
DeltaBravo Samba Member
Joined: February 29, 2016 Posts: 179 Location: Long Beach, CA
|
Posted: Fri Aug 26, 2016 4:49 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilding my motor |
|
|
Back on the 76' type 4 motor...
Please be kind, I am scratching my noodle and struggling to make sense of the backlash readings. Please note, I have rebuilt several rear ends (and I know this isn't a rear end) but the concept and procedures should be similar. Install shims, take readings, install different shims, take readings...so one and so on.
With some new parts to include three new shims. I ordered a 38mm and two 36mm shims. I installed the 38mm and 36mm shims, installed flywheel, torqued to 80'lbs and took a reading of 0.012" or 30mm.
38+36+30=1.04(total)-.007(endplay)=.97 total to remove with shims.
so...the following shim stack would look like
36 + 36 + 24 = 97mm
or
32 + 32 + 33 = 97mm
So in either of the above combinations (and I know there are more) I would just need a 24mm shim on the first one or three new shims to make up 97mm.
But most importantly, is my math correct? assuming I am doing everything else correctly
Thanks,
Damon
Sorry for the delays...I am also rebuilding my 87 Buick Grand National...pushing to much BOOST! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
DeltaBravo Samba Member
Joined: February 29, 2016 Posts: 179 Location: Long Beach, CA
|
Posted: Fri Aug 26, 2016 4:59 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilding my motor |
|
|
Just looked a BusDepot
They are only "showing" a 34mm and a 30mm shim available.
I could use those.
34 + 30 + 30= 94mm
Right between the max of 91mm and 97mm...
what'cha think?
Just to get three shims and shipping it like over 50 bucks
edit; it was only $37...but still |
|
Back to top |
|
|
SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
|
Posted: Fri Aug 26, 2016 5:11 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilding my motor |
|
|
I shoot for .004" clearance because that is between the factory specs of .003" to .005". You need to be careful of old shims that are cupped, and new shims that have burrs on the edge. I lay a piece of 2000 grit wet and dry on a piece of glass and sand each shim for a few seconds, rotating it a little every two or three sands. Then look at the pattern until the edges are clean.
The oil seal, especially at the back should be out and the drive for the distributor too if possible because that can bind the crank brass gear while moving the crank back and forth giving a false reading.
In theory you are doing the correct thing, BUT when you set it there is a 50-50 chance it will be a little off and you will have to do it again. Also take your readings at two or three spots to be sure everything is running true.
Also - you will be resetting it again while you own it if you have it long enough. I usually keep a couple of each number shim if I can find them inexpensively enough so I can just grab what I need rather than have to order it. _________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
|
Back to top |
|
|
DeltaBravo Samba Member
Joined: February 29, 2016 Posts: 179 Location: Long Beach, CA
|
Posted: Sat Aug 27, 2016 10:24 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilding my motor |
|
|
Thanks SGKent,
The previous flywheel endplay is based on new shims installed. I ordered some more new shims and hope they are the right size...
In the mean time, I have a question concerning my tin work...or more precisely, the 'missing' piece of tin. During disassembly, I notice one of the pieces didn't seam right. After cleaning, repairing and painting them. The one piece that didn't look right, is definitely not OEM. It looks like it is something you would find at HomeDepot that was cut and bent to fit.
I am hoping to find the correct piece.
All assembled...looks good, but will it work?
Tin in question...
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51057 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
|
Posted: Sat Aug 27, 2016 10:31 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilding my motor |
|
|
That was cut out for a dealer A/C install, the patch doesn't look horrible but an uncut LR corner tin would be the best fix.
How badly was the co joining metal on the body butchered up? _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
|
Posted: Sat Aug 27, 2016 10:35 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilding my motor |
|
|
what busdaddy said. You can look for a replacement in Samba classifieds. _________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
|
Back to top |
|
|
curtp07 Samba Member
Joined: November 28, 2007 Posts: 874 Location: Mass
|
Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 7:31 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilding my motor |
|
|
Wow can't wait for the video...don't forget the little black tab over the spring? _________________ Subaru |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ac78 Samba Member
Joined: March 18, 2008 Posts: 330 Location: Nashville
|
Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 8:27 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilding my motor |
|
|
Hi Delta- I have a question and suggestion. Did you use red locktite on the flywheel bolts? I got burned the first time I put mine on and had to take the motor back out.
Also, I would recommend leaving those coil and 3 front tin pieces off while reinstalling the motor. You will need every millimeter you can get. Or is the pic just a dry run? _________________ 78 Westy 2.0l hydr. FI
VW Campmobile
For people who believe a family's
car should be it's castle ! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
DeltaBravo Samba Member
Joined: February 29, 2016 Posts: 179 Location: Long Beach, CA
|
Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2016 8:45 am Post subject: Re: Rebuilding my motor |
|
|
Busdaddy,
Thanks for the explanation...didn't know that. No A/C on the bus...and don't plan on installing.
SGKent,
I found a couple, but they are reproduction fiberglass. They look like they would work just fine, but dunno...
I am ok with fiberglass and not looking for OEM, but would prefer OEM tins. Do you have any insight on tins made from fiberglass?
curtp07,
I had one of the two original black tabs for the flap system and just recently made another one. Thanks for looking out.
And again...I know it "looks good" but I am hoping it works when I turn that key over for the first time
ac78,
No red locktite yet, because I am still in the process of adjusting the flywheel endplay. However, I didn't think of using any at all. The bolts have special little "teeth" that bit into the plate that is installed. I should think the initial design of the bolts and plate would hold the torque. At least during disassembly the bolts still had torque on them.
Thanks for the tip on reinstalling...anything will help. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Gregg in the 603 Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2013 Posts: 398 Location: New Hampshire, USA
|
Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2016 3:57 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilding my motor |
|
|
Quote: |
Also, I would recommend leaving those coil and 3 front tin pieces off while reinstalling the motor. You will need every millimeter you can get. |
Just raise the bus up in the rear. I just went through this and thought the same thing. Once I jacked up the rear and set it on jackstands (5 inches total) it was amazing the difference. No more scratched paint, and I installed with all tin and the coil attached. _________________ 1979 Mexico Beige Westy auto
Dirty Dover, NH |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ac78 Samba Member
Joined: March 18, 2008 Posts: 330 Location: Nashville
|
Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2016 6:21 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilding my motor |
|
|
Gregg in the 603 wrote: |
Quote: |
Also, I would recommend leaving those coil and 3 front tin pieces off while reinstalling the motor. You will need every millimeter you can get. |
Just raise the bus up in the rear. I just went through this and thought the same thing. Once I jacked up the rear and set it on jackstands (5 inches total) it was amazing the difference. No more scratched paint, and I installed with all tin and the coil attached. |
Interesting. I was following the ratwell steps in reverse so I left them off(oil filler too). I will say that after I had 2- 2x10s under my jack and the jack almost fully extended, I got to the docking position pretty easily too. I felt an hour to get it in bolting position was pretty good, considering I started on gravel. Now I'll know how much base i need for next time. _________________ 78 Westy 2.0l hydr. FI
VW Campmobile
For people who believe a family's
car should be it's castle ! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
DeltaBravo Samba Member
Joined: February 29, 2016 Posts: 179 Location: Long Beach, CA
|
Posted: Wed Sep 07, 2016 8:16 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilding my motor |
|
|
Small update:
I got some shims in from BusDepot. I only got two of the three because the .34mm is on back order. The two I receive are .30mm and I decided to install those two with one the smaller previous shims I ordered, which is a .36mm.
So...
My previous measurements concluded that I would need two .30mm's and one .34mm to get the correct endplay.
So...
since I didn't receive what I needed, I installed the two .30mm's and one of my .36mm's and guess what?
I am 1/1000th of an inch too tight..auuuuughhh! soooooo close, yet so far.
But the good news is my calculation of needing two .30mms and one .34mm will get me what I need.
Until next time,
and thanks again for all the great advise and guidance. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
|
Posted: Wed Sep 07, 2016 9:12 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilding my motor |
|
|
.004" +/- will be perfect _________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
|
Back to top |
|
|
DeltaBravo Samba Member
Joined: February 29, 2016 Posts: 179 Location: Long Beach, CA
|
Posted: Thu Sep 08, 2016 6:05 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilding my motor |
|
|
FINALLY!
The magic shim stack for me is .30mm x 3= .004" endplay....
Now for the next hurdle...the exhaust. I have the headers (exhaust manifolds) installed and I used the annealing trick with the copper washers. Super easy and quick. I hope it works.
In other news, I will be moving into our new home in a couple of weeks and I don't think my bus will be ready for the drive (only 10 miles), which is ok...But I digress
Back to the exhaust. I know certain items are not reproduced, but there are four things I am looking into.
1) refurbish the heater boxes (cheeper than buying)
2) new (cali) catalytic converter
3) new muffler and tip
4) new gaskets
Until next time. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mark d Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2013 Posts: 219 Location: Costa Rica
|
Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2016 2:27 pm Post subject: Re: Rebuilding my motor |
|
|
been following your thread. just gotta say your engine and bus look great. good on ya _________________ 1972ish westfalia
"what good are tractors without violins ?" jose figueres |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|