1971 Type 3 Fasty RM-DDB (resto-mod daily driver build)

[glutenfree]

just a few pics...(it's late and i will fill in the blanks tomorrow)

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1971 Fastback Build
VW/Type 3 Parts for sale
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[glutenfree]

I designed and 3d printed a couple of drill guides so that I could drill a couple of holes in the 1/8NPT 90deg adapter and 1/8NPT nut for use with safety wire. They worked quite well!

Then after mocking up my tins/housing etc I soon realized the oil pressure sending unit will most likely interfere with the distributor...I will toss the dizzy in later today and confirm that assessment. If it is indeed interfering, I will rotate the sender 180 degrees (upside down) and add an extension wire with extra heat shrink and insulation for extra protection.

I also removed the majority of the casting marks in my fan housing for prolonged powder coat life/durability.

Here are some pics...

safety wire drill guide/jigs (3d printed)

mocking tins/housing etc

oil pressure sending unit location...notice how close it is to the dizzy location

another shot of the fuel press. reg. (and mounts) and front tin

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1971 Fastback Build
VW/Type 3 Parts for sale
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[glutenfree]

Well, it looks like the distributor will clear the oil pressure sending unit IF I use the factory/stock sender in this location. I will also need to craft an adapter from the 1/8 NPT on the elbow to the metric threads on the original oil pressure sending unit.

I just researched again and found this info on the metric threaded oil pressure sending units (VW factory/stock)

[glutenfree]

finished modding the front tin! discovered I need a couple of different fittings for both the fuel pressure regulator and the external oil filter outlet, the angle of the fittings are not ideal (need another 90deg -8AN for the oil and either a straight or 15-20deg fitting for the fuel press. reg.)

Powder coating some parts later today..finally a halfway decent break in this crazy winter weather and I have access to wheels

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1971 Fastback Build
VW/Type 3 Parts for sale
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my Shapeways store

[glutenfree]

I did some powder coating yesterday...

Today I will work on installing the freshly coated cool tins and rocker arms plus look into resizing my pushrods to proper length. The heads need swapped sides (for intake manifold port matching) and I will get the oil breather/stand installed as well.

My machinist took about .250" off the top of the breather box so I could have better clearance under the engine lid. I need to turn down a steel bung, drill & tap it, then to weld to the filler tube so I can use a brass (or aluminum) barb fitting for a breather box connector hose between the filler tube and breather box.

I also need to finalize placement of the external oil filter on the mustache bar so I can drill/tap or use weldnuts for securing the filter mount.

Tons of small stuff to keep me busy the next week or so...hoping to have it all completed by February!

I am going to give this (and the front tin) a second coat of powder next round

see far right side of front tin needs better coverage!

cool tins are ready to go!

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1971 Fastback Build
VW/Type 3 Parts for sale
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my Shapeways store

[glutenfree]

Still contemplating whether I want to coat the cool tins again or just leave them as they are...most likely I will just call them good. I finally decided how I wanted my cool tins secured so I snapped a few pics of the process (well, half so far)

The pics can tell the story better but basically I used a couple 4.5 inch hose clamps and cut a slot in the tins on either side of the cylinders and clamped it down...also drilled a few holes in the solid part to help with cooling. I maybe should have move the clamp further inboard where the cylinders are cooler??

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1971 Fastback Build
VW/Type 3 Parts for sale
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[Donnie strickland]

I wouldn't bother recoating them. They're barely visible when the engine is in the car, and then only from underneath.

The clamps are gross overkill, though. It seems that could retain heat and cause hot spots on the cylinders. I used some .032" stainless steel safety wire to secure mine.

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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback

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[W1K1]

put a brass or stainless Chore boy scrubber in the breather to catch oil vapor, and don't vent the 1/2 valve cover, just the 3/4 side.
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/jim_martin_engine_build.php

1973 super
1965 squareback 1500E
1971 bay window westy- subi swap

[glutenfree]

[W1K1]

sorry , just the 1/2 side, the 3/4 side fills the valve cover with oil, then it climbs the tube to the breather, which a 1/2" breather line can store quite a bit of oil in a 3-4 foot length.
Yes, the scrubber above the screen
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/jim_martin_engine_build.php

1973 super
1965 squareback 1500E
1971 bay window westy- subi swap

[glutenfree]

[glutenfree]

I decided I will drill and tap my 1/2 head for the crankcase vent since 1 of the 2 heads I have is a factory type 3 with dual boss castings (CHT sender and optional vent?). I must swap the heads since the t3 head is on the 3/4 side but I have not torqued them yet so no biggie.

I am punching out an order for a scooter product I manufacture and sell through an online company then I will be turning those cool tin clamp spacers I mentioned in a previous post. I may attempt the drilling/tapping of the head today so I can swap those and torque since I have a borrowed torque-wrench and want to get that back asap.

Also, is there a seal/gasket that goes between the fan housing and pulley shroud? I thought I read/saw something about this but am unable to locate that info again without an exhaustive search..

More updates with pics later
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1971 Fastback Build
VW/Type 3 Parts for sale
Instagram
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[ataraxia]

[glutenfree]

[glutenfree]

It's been a minute since I updated here last. Life has been hectic as usual but I made some progress and wanted to post up a few pics. I am really happy with the results tho I still need to trim the cooling tin vent tube hole so it doesn't rub.

I decided I will be using a hard-line for my head to breather connection for a much cleaner look than what any rubber type hose could offer.

Need to open that vent tube hole in the cooling tin

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1971 Fastback Build
VW/Type 3 Parts for sale
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[raygreenwood]

A couple items...first...very nice work.

1. I will have to check the hose routing of stock type 3 with D-jet....but "IIRC"...IF.....the PCV coute of air on the type 3 should be just like the type 4. In that case...its flow through. The PCV air is pulled through the rocker boxes by plenum vacuum and the filling of the rocker boxes with oil is not an issue.

Again...let me check the flow path/direction when I get home. On type 4 engines the flow direction prevents the filling of rocker boxes with oil...100%.

2. I am not sure I got exactly what you were putting straps/clamps on the cylinders for...but I have seen that mod over the years about three times...and it cracked cylinder fins...every single time.

3. Lose the gauge in the engine compartment. Unless you specifically bought a class of gauge that is MADE for high temp usage...the maximum ambient operating temperature of a non-high temp gauges.....is right at 140-150F. They get very inaccurate very quickly because of expansion and contraction of the bourdon tube.

Some gauges with stainless bodies and glass faces can be found with a rating to 200F....but I would verify that.

Virtually all liquid filled gauges have a rating for the case of 150-165F. The mechanism itself is usually rated from 140-150-F

Make note....when shopping for gauges that they have two temperature ratings....ambient/environment temperature and process temperature. Many boiler gauges have a 212 to 250F PROCESS temp rating meaning the gas (in this case steam) can work up to 250F...however to remain accurate the case needs to be used in an environment under 150F.

Vibration along with heat kills gauge accuracy fast. A solid mounting to the engine virtually insures vibration.

I would not leave the gauge in the engine compartment. Ray

[glutenfree]

Thanks for all the info Ray...

Any info on crankcase ventilation would be great...I have not delved too deep into that area yet. Hopefully I can get away with NOT venting my 3/4 rockerbox but I shall if needed. I had intended on plumbing the breather box to the carb intake, before the cleaner but that depends on what knowledge I find on the forums as this is my first T3 build.

I guess I will either remove the fuel press. gauge after initial tuning and find a suitable electronic replacement sender/gauge or I could move the gauge to where the FI brain is stashed...maybe flush-mount it to the panel cover for easy reading and a clean look....would be simple enough using some -4AN hose/fittings.

The hose clamps(straps) are for securing the cool-tins to the cylinders...I have moved the clamps further inboard (towards the case) so there will be less chance of any fin breakage and also less heat build-up.
Also, after I add a couple brass spacers, which will lift the clamps off the fins a tad preventing any chance of fin breakage and offering better airflow under the clamps to reduce any hot spots in the cylinders.

Thanks again and pics in next post
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1971 Fastback Build
VW/Type 3 Parts for sale
Instagram
my Shapeways store

[glutenfree]

Oil Filler tube mod and remote oil filter bracket/mount mockups...

I still need to weld the studs and powder coat the bracket

More updates later this week...I am now waiting on some hardware and will be powder coating the last of my parts in another day or so.
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1971 Fastback Build
VW/Type 3 Parts for sale
Instagram
my Shapeways store

[glutenfree]

Another couple days and I will have the rest of everything I ordered. Last week I decided to change my crankcase breather lines with AN style fittings/hose as I really didn't like how the barbs and hose/clamps looked. Not to mention I will have a cleaner engine compartment using these style fittings as they leak less than barbs w/ clamps.
The manifold crossover tube will use barb/hose fittings until I have a hard line made at a shop since I do not have tube flaring tools and no plans to purchase a set anytime soon.

Also got my new oil filler tube boot along with a bunch of fittings and hose. You can see that I have a few spark plugs cleaned and ready for gapping & install once the engine is to that point. I still need to figure the routing of the new fuel hose as I decided to upgrade my pump and filter as I went with AN fittings from tank to carbs (all but 4 fittings are AN style) CBP sells an adapter that fits the factory tank bung. Picked up a set of elephant feet adjusters as well since it felt like the right thing to do.
I will be cutting push-rods to size and turning some aluminum rod down for my cylinder stud standoffs since they are cheaper to turn than to have printed in metal.


Sorry for the wall of text. I am super close now! I didn't get all my updates in here but I will mention those next post (tomorrow?) This last week was a really tough week, especially today but sometimes (well most times) you just gotta "suck it up and drive on" as my momma used to tell me. lol

CheeRS!

Bought a couple extra parts bins and decided to organize my VW hardware since I was doing the same with all my other hobby stuffs

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1971 Fastback Build
VW/Type 3 Parts for sale
Instagram
my Shapeways store