Aussie '61 rat build

[Hazza6542]

[Hazza6542]

Oil light stopped working. Troubleshooting led to the light not working when touched on the power terminal, so no problems dash side, worked when the cable at engine end was grounded so must be a faulty switch. Very odd that it went out the moment the alternator came out but must be coincidence . Replacement switch from Super Cheap Auto fit right in no worries, comes on with ignition and goes out after a few seconds on cold start and immediately on warm start.

[bluebus86]

[Hazza6542]

Got a fair bit done today, enjoy.

Day started with parts delivery, always fun, then stumbled across some things from our last '72, got lucky and there's a '61 owners manual in it!

Got onto the alternator first, all went well. Key into on position and two idiot lights!! Both go out when started, happy days. Need to move the strap to a different position so it's a bit cleaner but hey, I'll do that next time I need to do something in the bay.

Bit of rain had me stuck inside so got cracking on the luggage compartment light, pretty happy with the outcome. Running a lower wattage bulb to avoid the light blasting in my face, will try a 10w bulb to see if it's too much brighter. Photo's don't do it justice, it's pretty dim at the moment. Can't really see in the photo but looks like a tube amp through the dash. Mercury switch is hidden away by the cover, neat and clean install.

For now, that's the car finished! Once it's registered, in goes the beam and front discs and get it dropped, plus a few other changes that wouldn't pass the road worthy over here. Nothing stupid or dangerous, you'll see soon enough.

Some good photo's of the car lit up.

[arizonabuckeye]

I would love some details on your third brake light. I have been trying to figure out what to do with mine...

[Hazza6542]

[Hazza6542]

Passed my rego check this morning, good times. Got lucky, the window regulator shit itself just after it got tested. Pulled into the driveway at home, wound the window up half way then a loud crack and the regulator is busted. Pulled it apart and the gear doesn't seem to be contacting the teeth on the arm at all. Will grab new ones tomorrow, can't be bothered fixing it if I can just buy new and bolt it in at the shop.

Next plan is power windows but using the stock winders as the switch. Figured out how to the winders as a switch but not sure on mounting the motor. Have searched a few threads but want something that takes some thinking, not just a bolt on. Will have a play around.

First real drive tomorrow, can't wait! Haven't been for a drive in a beetle in 5 years or so. Even just the short drive to the rego check this morning I got a bunch of waves, peace and smiles from everyone, people love them! Forgot how special they are, even the post man walked up the drive to talk to me about it because he had a story about his '64. Love it, now to find matching paint panels and keep on working on it.

[FUSSELL2]

here are a couple of options on the power windows. maybe you have something like this down under.

http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/power-windows/crank-handle-switches

http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/power-windows/motors/wonder-lift-power-window-kit

http://www.autoloc.com/catalog/Power-Window-Kits/U...3-Switches

http://www.autoloc.com/catalog/OEM-Window-Crank-Sw...l-Vehicles

[Hazza6542]

Cheers for those links, but I think I've got other issues to sort first.

In heavy rain, water is getting into the glove box, so there's a leak somewhere.

Then bigger issue, something went bad. Loud bang, no power and loud knocking. Sounds like a hammer hitting the block and oil leaking out of the oil pressure switch but the light never came on and still works. Lot's of exploring in the engine to do today. Will get a video of the engine and link it here later.

[Hazza6542]

Right so I think I've figured it out.

This was my explanation to an aircooled mate of mine and his response:

Me -

[tomsbuggered]

[Hazza6542]

[Hazza6542]

Well, motor is out and mostly stripped. Found the problem at least. Cyl. #3, pushrod is gone! Well, it's still there but it's in two pieces, can feel the two stuck in the push rod tube. Hopes are high that there isn't too much damage internally. I'd say the head is busted, but won't know till it comes off tomorrow. I've got a plan for a rebuild, researching here how to do it all myself. Will have to start a build thread for it, too. Biggest concern is the CR, living in Australia where I've got access to 98 RON fuel at every servo I guess I've got to build it to suit. Stock 1600cc, discovered it's an AS41 case, seems good. Will edit in photo's tomorrow.

Also discovered that the guy who did my 12V conversion did some baaaad wiring. Starter to alt. wire was two different wires, I assumed under the heat shrink would be some solder. Nope! Not even a twist, just one on top of the other with a bit of heat shrink holding it together. Dodgy stuff, don't know how lazy they can be to not take the 2 minutes to solder a wire or throw in $5 worth of new wiring and 5 minutes of crimping on connections.

[Hazza6542]

Well, down to a short block now and everything is looking good. No scoring on pistons or block, so that's good. Assuming I still need to get some machining done anyway but I'm still learning. Rocker arms are either loose and turn freely or a little stiff. Good condition though and will probably rebuild. I've done some basic searching but may as well ask here, is there a trick to getting the front pulley off? It looks rusted on, no budge even with heat and some light prying. Will buy a puller tomorrow but will probably need some grinding to work with the vw pulley. Or, it's all getting replaced anyway, could I just split the case with crankshaft still on?

Here are some photos of the heads, everything looks in order and no cracks but a lot of carbon build up. We don't have 'simple green' over here so will carby cleaner do the trick?valves will get replaced.

And more photos of the rust on parts. Plus the culprit of the engine going bang.

And a few photos from the 2 hours if actually worked.

99 kilometres before blowing up, so close to 100..

[tomsbuggered]

Nice that there seems to be minimal damage. Is there slight blow by on the heads, or is that carbon deposit normal? When we pulled my 36 HP apart there were metal bits in the lower case.

Can't help on the pulley removal, but help will be at hand soon I'm sure.

The pictures look like mountain country west of Sydney.

Good luck with the engine refresh.

Tom
_________________
June 1956 VW Oval Beetle

[remerus]

Hi Mate, Lovin the car by the way...

I got the pulley off on my 63 by walking the pulley off with two large screw drivers opposed at 180 degrees from one another, was a bitch of a job as I assume it had been on for the best part of 50 odd years but it came off. just be mindful that you are jemmying it off of the case surface behind the pulley so don't go to hard just easy does it with a bit of patients (or get a puller )

Regarding the simple green not I have not seen any here in Sydney either mate and all I used was carb cleaner and a scrubbing brush the alternative is to clean them as much as you can and send them to the machine shop to clean up for you ( I think they sand blasted mine ) although I did have them re build mine so they were taken apart.

Cheers Chris

[Hazza6542]

Yup, sure is the Blue Mountains! Anyone who knows Boddington Hill, I was surprised to be passing people in new cars in 4th cruising at 50mph, hard to get her up to speed but easy to stick there. Can't give up after one day of it working, way too much fun driving around, might help my license stick around, too.

No idea if the carbon is normal but I sure don't want it staying there for the rebuild. Tried using two screwdrivers, my brother helping as well and nothing, wouldn't budge. Will grab a puller this afternoon and give that a go, it's been drenched in WD-40 overnight so that should help it out a little.

[Hazza6542]

Righto, case is split! Pretty surprised with what we found in there, which was nothing but clean, straight parts. Everything internal is great, other than carbon build up on pistons. So the case is good and can be reused. Enjoying learning how everything works inside, I'll be ready for the next (hopefully not) break down.

Question time. I'll search some more on here myself, but if anyone is feeling nice to help an engine newb, cheers!

Case machining: I'm gunna get it crack tested anyway, but what am I looking at getting machined. Everything looks straight and good but I know tolerances are extremely small. Does everything just get machined to remove small burs or does it get bored out slightly?

The crank shaft and cam shaft; I haven't checked with a feeler gauge the rods and crank yet, but everything is straight and they all spin freely with a push or gravity, good sign. Gears are all perfect. Can I save some $$$ and reuse these? Will get good detailed pictures tomorrow (it's 2am here).

Things like the lifters, they all seem fine. No scoring, in and out of the case smoothly with no play, I can't fault them. Reuse?

Electric fuel pump: I like the idea of the fuel block off/coil mount, nice and clean. Or is this just a bit much and just mount the coil behind the shroud for looks?

Tin: I had bugger all to start with. All I've got is fan shroud, front breast and cylinder covers, will are both in bad, rusty and bent condition. I wanna go 36hp doghouse anyway but looks like my options are aftermarket. Not waiting around to find OG good cond. when I just want this thing back on the road. Not a show pony but I don't want it to be/look rushed either. If I go all after market tin, just how much trouble am I running into?

Other good point is it's running a vintage speed exhaust, no heater. Was told the underside tin won't fit. This true?



And if someone can be bothered telling me, how far off is this shopping list for a full rebuild considering condition of current internals? All going on my AD series, AS41 case. The thing will get driven as a daily, so it needs to be reliable but I'm more than happy to sit at 50mph highway and won't treat it like a 2110, no point in trying to go fast in a slow car.


TIN

C13-9057 - 3 PIECE BLACK GENERATOR BACKING PLATE KIT - ALL 12 VOLT BEETLE STYLE ENGINES

ACC-C10-5985 - 36HP BLACK FAN SHROUD W/OUT HEATER OUTLETS FITS ALL 12-1600CC BEETLE STYLE ENGINES - (A10)

ACC-C10-6217 - BLACK REAR ENGINE TIN W/ NO HOLES FOR HEATER HOSE OR HEAT RISERS - 1300CC-1600CC BEETLE STYLE ENGINE

VWC-113-101-475-B2 - VALVE COVER - O.E. BLACK BEETLE / GHIA / TYPE 3 61-79 / BUS 61-71 - SOLD PAIR

VWC-311-119-317-A2 - BLACK DEFLECTOR PLATE BETWEEN PUSHRODS & CYLINDERS - 13-1600CC BEETLE STYLE ENGINES 66-79 - SOLD PAIR


ACC-C10-5442 - BLACK SINGLE PORT CYLINDER TIN PR - ALL 1300CC-1600CC BEETLE STYLE ENGINES 66-70

C13-8948 - BLACK 3PC HEATER BOX TIN - WILL DO BOTH LEFT & RIGHT SIDES - ALL 40HP 12-1600CC BEETLE ENGINES

ACC-C10-6212 - SMALL PULLEY TIN BLACK - ALL 1600CC BEETLE STYLE ENGINES

ACC-C10-6213-DH - BLACK FIREWALL TIN - LATE STYLE FOR USE W/ DOGHOUSE SHROUD - 1600CC BEETLE STYLE ENGINES 71-79

VWC-131-119-358 - SMALL AIR DEFLECTOR ENGINE TIN RIGHT - ALL 1300CC-1600CC BEETLE STYLE ENGINES 1966-1979

VWC-131-119-357 - SMALL AIR DEFLECTOR ENGINE TIN LEFT - ALL 1300CC-1600CC BEETLE STYLE ENGINES 1966-1979

ACC-C10-5976 - BLACK AIR CHANNEL TIN 2 PCS W/ SEALS - BACKSIDE OF DOGHOUSE FAN SHROUD - 1600CC BEETLE STYLE ENGINES


EXTERNAL

C24-311-115-141-C - TOP QUALITY - OIL PUMP COVER PLATE W/ 8MM HOLES - ALL BEETLE STYLE ENGINES 1968-1979

ACC-C10-5395 - OIL DRAIN PLATE W/GASKET SET - ALL 40HP - 12-1600CC BEETLE STYLE ENGINES

C13-4009 - 10MM CHROMOLY CASE STUDS STOCK LENGTH - COMPLETE WITH NUTS AND WASHER - ALL BEETLE STYLE 1600CC ENGINES

VHD-N11-0624-6 - CAP OIL DRAIN PLATE NUT - ALL 12-1600CC BEETLE STYLE ENGINES - SOLD SET OF 6 NUTS

ACC-C10-5242 - MAGNETIC OIL DRAIN PLUG - ALL 25HP-1600CC BEETLE STYLE ENGINES 1946-1979

C13-16-9435-B - QUALITY DISTRIBUTOR CAP - BEETLE 69-79 / GHIA 69-79 / BUS 69-79 / VAN. 80-84 & BOSCH 009 DIS.

POSSIBLE FUEL PUMP BLOCK OFF FOR ELEC. PUMP

BOS-09001 - BOSCH (NEW DESIGN WITH CARBON CORE) IGNITION WIRE SET 12-1600CC (SEE SPECIAL NOTE) - BEETLE 46-79 / GHIA 56-74 / BUS 50-71 - SOLD SET

BOS-WR8AC-4 - BOSCH SUPER PLUS SPARK PLUG - BEETLE 46-79/GHIA 56-74/BUS 50-71/TYPE-3 62-74 - SOLD AS A SET OF 4

C15-25074 - SCAT - FULLY WELDED AND BALANCED COOLING FAN 35MM I.D. FAN - ALL DOGHOUSE STYLE FAN SHROUDS

VWC-111-117-021-EAL - NEW ALUMINUM DESIGN - OIL COOLER W/ 10MM HOLES 40HP 12-1600CC (ALUMINUM FINS FOR SUPERIOR COOLING) - BEETLE 61-70 / GHIA 61-70 / BUS 60-70 (SEE SPECIAL NOTES BEFORE PURCHASING)

C26-903-113B – BLACK OXIDE - BILLET HIGH CARBON STEEL CNC MACHINED CENTER HUB 12 VOLT GEN/ALT PULLEY – ALL 1600CC STYLE ENGINES – SOLD EACH

ACC-C10-5423 - CHROME CRANK PULLEY BOLT & WASHER - BEETLE 46-79 / GHIA 56-74 / BUS 50-71 / THING 73-74


INTERNAL

C24-113-198-007-GER - GENUINE ELRING BRAND - MADE IN GERMANY - ENGINE GASKET SET - 1300CC-1600CC AIRCOOLED ENGINES (FLYWHEEL SEAL SOLD SEP.)

VWC-311-109-301-A8 - STOCK PUSH RODS - SET OF 8 - ALL 13-1600CC BEETLE STYLE ENGINES - SOLD SET OF 8

C13-4045 - EMPI -HIGH-REV VALVE SPRING KIT - W/SINGLE SPRGS / ALLOY RETAINERS & HARDENED KEEPERS -BUG ENG.

ACC-C10-5219 - ITALY MADE - STAINLESS STEEL VALVES 32MM - SOLD EACH

VWC-113-101-401-ZSET - SET OF 4 VALVE GUIDES - 8MM STD - 12-1600CC BEETLE STYLE ENGINES - SOLD SET OF 4

REBUILD KIT INCLUDING

C24-111-198-541-SL - SILVERLINE BRAND - STANDARD CAM BRGS - 1300CC / 1500CC / 1600CC / VANAGON 83-85 1.9L

C24-113-105-245-FS - GENUINE ELRING BRAND - HIGHEST QUALITY - SILICON FLYWHEEL SEAL (REAR MAIN) - ALL 40HP 12-1600CC BEETLE STYLE ENGINES

VWC-113-101-157-C - CAMSHAFT END PLUG - ALL AIR COOLED MODELS 1300CC-2000CC

VWC-311-109-335-8 - SET OF 8 PUSH ROD TUBES - 1300CC-1600CC - SOLD SET OF 8

VWC-311-115-175 - OIL STRAINER SCREEN - ALL 40HP 1200CC-1600CC

VWC-113-109-309-C8 - SET OF 8 - STOCK CAM FOLLOWERS - LIFTERS FOR 40HP 12-1600CC - SOLD SET OF 8

VWC-311-198-069-B - AA-PRODUCTS - PISTON & CYLINDER COMPLETE SET ( FOR 1 ENGINE) - 85.5MM 1600CC 70-79 - UPGRADES 67-69 - (A20)

VWC-311-105-401-BOE - CONNECTING ROD SET - MATCHED WEIGHT SET OF 4 RODS - 100% NEW (NOT REBUILT) - ALL 13-1600CC BEETLE 66-79 - SOLD IN SETS OF 4

[Hazza6542]

So while the engine drama is going on in the background, I've been getting to the paint and interior a bit more. The rear seats were never quite right (Base could not slide under the back rest enough to sit in the brace across the car, about 2" off) so I bought a new set today, original. They seem to be right, but when installed there was a 2" gap between the bottom of the back rest and the top of the base. Never seen or heard of it before.

Backstory, when I bought them I saw the tabs that get bolted into the shell were bent back, full 180 degrees. Thought that was odd, so I heated them and bent them back, but when they are in the 'proper' place, the seat sits wrong with the large gap. The rest of the frame is in good condition, not bent anywhere. The top of the seat is sitting a little higher than the side rear windows, seems a bit high. I'm not sure why the tabs were bent back on themselves but in an odd way it must fix the problem.

I have the TMI covers for 58-64 seats, the base is a nice fit on the seat base I already have but when swapped to the new 'correct style' seats, there's waaaay to much over hang on all edges. Now I'm getting really confused. So I'm going to stick with the seat base that fits the covers better. But what should I do about the back rest? I could use the wrong back rest and wrong base and probably have a good working set, but I know they're not right and it bothers me.


Will upload photos in the morning to show what's happening, and the seat frames I've picked up. Car is Australian made so there are some weird things that happened over here that were standard but wouldn't be correct OS, so it's hard to find good information.

Here is the back rest I was using that wouldn't let the base sit under.

The seat I picked up today

The tabs to bolt into the body.

[tomsbuggered]

I just upholstered my seats, over the winter.

I wish I would have taken more detailed pictures, but your upper rear seat looks different from mine. It seems to be longer. I could take some measurements if it would help. I know that my rear seat is tighter fit after the upholstery. Does the seat frame fit well without padding ?

Tom
_________________
June 1956 VW Oval Beetle