First VW Buggy Rebuild

[dufuss2010]

[dufuss2010]

After a longer break than I expected I am working on The Beast again. I have newish tires for it; the brakes are redone (just pad slapped it for now) but all the hard lines, the wheel cylinders, the rubber lines, the shoes, the brake hardware, and the master cylinder are brand new; replaced the leaking wheel seal on the rear and torqued the rear hubs down; I am ordering a new fuel tank and front wheel bearings today. I think that is everything I have done so far. Oh yeah, aside from the most important thing I have done, I have the title in my name with a planned non-op on it!

I spent this morning helping my step dad get the engine out of a Buick to use the engine for my mom's car, when you're a redneck some things are easier, but I am stealing the battery out of that car for right now.

As soon as my fuel tank arrives I should be able to start The Beast. I want to drive at least a few weeks out of this summer before I have to put it away for winter, Northern California is not a friendly area to a an open top car in winter. After the engine starts and is tuned I will get the lights and ignition wired and then pull it out of non-op. I'm sure there are other things I will need to do but my first test drive feels like it is right around the corner.
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First VW: 1961 Pan, ThunderBug body, 1971 1600cc single port motor, Solex 30 Pict 2 Carb.

[dufuss2010]

Very busy with a 40 hour work week 6 hours of college class and 2 kids under the age of 5, but I got my fuel tank installed, plumbed, and partially filled. Replaced the battery cables and started The Beast Sunday!!! Considering I got it free over a year ago having it in my name and running is awesome. The brakes do not work right now but i already figured out my mistake there. I adjusted the brake shoes after installation but prior to bleeding the lines as I had just replaced all the lines and MC. The shoes were adjusted properly but as there was no brake fluid I couldn't press the brake pedal to center the shoes and check the adjustment again. My MC pushrod may be out of adjustment from what I can feel in the play but unless the PO had virtually no braking power before I doubt that.

I have a major smoke issue, as in the exhaust is blowing huge clouds of white smoke that linger when the engine runs for more than 30 seconds. I think the oil is thin from gas leaking down after flooding the engine trying to start it before I had everything ready to go. I have new oil and a new filter ready to go in and plan on doing that tonight. I also picked up some gear oil because I had a leaking rear wheel seal so I don't know how low the transmission may be.

The only thing wired currently is the ignition system, but I have plenty of wire, connectors, a fuse box, fuses and I have already looked at wiring diagrams not only for the typical dune buggy but also for a stock 61 beetle. I took both those and drew up my own to use until I finish and then I will do a nice one and laminate it to reference should I have problems.

My current plan has everything finished by Sunday night and I will make an appointment at DMV and go into AAA to get my plates and insurance. I have wanted one of these since highschool and now at 25 I have one that runs!!! Sunday was a very big deal for me.
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First VW: 1961 Pan, ThunderBug body, 1971 1600cc single port motor, Solex 30 Pict 2 Carb.

[dufuss2010]

I got my plates and insurance! I have made a couple short trips already. Hoping to have the inside cleaned out well enough to drive it to work Monday. The lights are a little iffy, but I didn't replace the bulbs because the screws on the bezels are stripped and they work even if they aren't super bright. I think I will just use it during daylight hours until I'm sure it won't strand me somewhere. It accelerates great but will die slowing down to a light or idling at a light. When it is first started it will idle fine but once it warms up it seems to have trouble idling.

I do need a bit of advice, I have the headlights on a simple toggle switch because the factory light switch is causing problems. The nut that holds it on has already been loosened at it has rusted itself to the shaft. I can grab the shaft on the outside to break the rust free, but only if i destroy the threads, and even my needle nose don't seem to have enough room to get in between it and the dash. Would really like to use it if it still works, but need it properly secured to the dash before i can.
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First VW: 1961 Pan, ThunderBug body, 1971 1600cc single port motor, Solex 30 Pict 2 Carb.