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Upgrading my 1.7 to 2.0 or better
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vin man
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 10:53 am    Post subject: Upgrading my 1.7 to 2.0 or better Reply with quote

My 72 914 has a 1.7 dual carb motor. I'd like to increase the performance of the engine. Can someone suggest some thread for me to review that highlight the types of upgrades availalbe?

I'm wondering if I need to buy new engine components or instead have mine machined? Do I just get new heads and keep block/crank stock?

Looking for guidelines at this point so I have an idea of what to expect from a total cost standpoint. My budget for upgrades is $1500 to $2000 so not sure how much I can get done.

Thanks.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 11:21 am    Post subject: Re: Upgrading my 1.7 to 2.0 or better Reply with quote

vin man wrote:
My 72 914 has a 1.7 dual carb motor. I'd like to increase the performance of the engine. Can someone suggest some thread for me to review that highlight the types of upgrades availalbe?

I'm wondering if I need to buy new engine components or instead have mine machined? Do I just get new heads and keep block/crank stock?

Looking for guidelines at this point so I have an idea of what to expect from a total cost standpoint. My budget for upgrades is $1500 to $2000 so not sure how much I can get done.

Thanks.


For your budget, a reliable 2.0L even of non-914 spec (VW bus) is out of reach.

That being said....the 1.7L when properly appointed and tuned is quite a respectable engine. Its HP and torque beat the 1.8 on this continent.

Its rated at 82hp.....with factory fuel injection. It generally made that from the factory but few 1.7's I have seen have even closer to that due to wear and poor tuning...even by 30-40k miles.

With a few basic upgrades 90 and 100hp can be reached with excellent throttle response...which I have actually found to be better than ...throttle response wise...than the 2.0 (this is primarily because on the D-jet injected engines the 2.0 plenum was not as good as the 1.7 plenum and TB intake angle).

So...if your 1.7L is in good shape...meaning no cracks in the heads. Send the heads to Adrian at Headflow masters. Get new valve seats....always....and 40 x 34 or 41 x 35 valves. With injection you could go 42 X 36 which is as large as the head can handle.

Get a Webcam # 86a or similar....or even better a Raby 9590 cam from the type 4 store. I would call and ask both of these places for a recomendation since you will be staying carbs.

Get a set of HD valve springs from the aircooled.net
Hopefully if you still have the original domed 1.7L pistons...you can get new rings from AC.net....and reset the deck to about .035"...get rid of the factory head gasket and lap the jugs into the heads.

Get a solid rocker shaft spacer set, new ...hopefully std/std. bearings so you wont need machine work, double thrust cam bearing set...or buuy two normal sets and make your own.

Set your compression at 8.5:1 minimum and about 9.0:1 maximum.

Have everything balanced as a unit...rods, crank, flywheel and fan.

Really one of the best deals in town..even though it is expensive....its actually a bargain....the camshaft kit from the type 4 store.
New cam, gear, lifters, solid spacer kit, springs, retainers, chromoly pushrods, new rocker studs, new rocker nuts and real Porsche swivel feet adjuster. Those alone will set you back about $225 these days.

The cam is a slightly wider split pattern for better breathing/heat extraction

http://type4store.com/camshaft-kits/super-9590-cam-kit.html

Between the cam kit, cost of a proper head rebuild, bearings and gasket kit and some shipping and balancing....and you doing all of the rest....this will set you back $2500 minimum and pushing $3000.

But you will have a dead reliable engine that does 90hp minimum and probably right at 100 hp peak with good carbs and tuning.

Oh....and get a better ignition coil and a decent distributor. The stock fuel injection distributor is actually pretty good curve. get a pertronix 42kv ignition coil at minimum even if you keep points. Ray
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Wolfgangdieter
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 5:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Upgrading my 1.7 to 2.0 or better Reply with quote

Is it worth swapping in a 2.0 L crank for increase stroke and more power. Seems it would be a cheap power mod to a 1.7 or 1.8L? I know the FI cam has to go. I have a 1.8L and a 2.0L that could use a rebuild and then used in an CMC Speedster and a Dolphin T-Mod.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 5:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Upgrading my 1.7 to 2.0 or better Reply with quote

Wolfgangdieter wrote:
Is it worth swapping in a 2.0 L crank for increase stroke and more power. Seems it would be a cheap power mod to a 1.7 or 1.8L? I know the FI cam has to go. I have a 1.8L and a 2.0L that could use a rebuild and then used in an CMC Speedster and a Dolphin T-Mod.


You could....you would need 2.0L crank and rods. The benefit without the extra cubic inches of the 2.0 pistons....hard to say.

Also be sure of the pin height on the pistons so that you do not need extreme cylinder spacers. Ray
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BK911
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 4:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Upgrading my 1.7 to 2.0 or better Reply with quote

For <$2k not much you can do.
Good advise from Ray, but nowhere near your budget.
That can kit alone is over $1k.

I am in the same boat as you; 1972 914 1.7l.
Probably over $5k in parts alone to build a 2056.

If I were you, do a leakdown to see your engines current health.
If decent, spend the $2k on suspension and brakes.
Then save up the coin to properly build a nice engine.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 7:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Upgrading my 1.7 to 2.0 or better Reply with quote

It really helps....to carefully disassemble your engine. Whqt BK911 is getting at is a possible "refurbishment".

The bottom ends are known to be rock solid. If it was well cared for.

So.....disassemble carefully and measure the case and crank. You may be able to get away with just new bearings in the lower end. If the oil pump is in good shape.......not super sloppy. Disassemble it and send it out to be anodized locally. That will build up all surfaces to get it close to .001".

Have your heads inspected for cracks. Probably Adrian at headflow masters will be your best bet for an affordable stock rebuild with next size up valves.....like 41mm x 35mm.

You can skip the cam kit from the type 4 store....although it is the best. Webcam makes those cams. There are several Webcams that will work with your carbs.

New cam, lifters and gear for about, $250. Reuse stock pushrods and carefully set geometry. You can use a decent set of HD springs and reuse your stock retainers or they are cheap.

Save and get the 911 adjusters later....but eventually get them. You can make the solid rocker spacers yourself or check at Air cooled.net.

Carefully mic the cylinders and pistons. If the cylinders are not,grossly oversized or scored....rehone them.....and mic the pistons. If the ring grooves qre in spec and the skirts are not collapsed....the stock 1.7L domes are superb.

Bring compression up to 8.5:1. Get a better than stock ignition.

This 1.7l ...with excellnt tuning a good cam from Web.....and a decent exhaust...start with a basic thunderbird header....and graduate as money comes around.....will make 90hp no problem. It can make 100 with really good massaging and exhaust.

You can do this for about $2500.....but since many of the parts already have a wear cycle on them....this is a 50-70k reliable engine only. Ray
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