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KentABQ 
Samba Member
Joined: September 11, 2016
Posts: 2406
Location: Albuquerque NM
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 Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2017 10:14 am Post subject: Re: Another poor sap with Bus fever |
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| rockerarm wrote: |
And regarding the rear wheel bearings. I'm not aware of anything Bentley stated about non servicing of post '73 rear wheel bearings but DUH, Bentley don't work here! It is still a moving part with a lubricant that has a lifespan. Just key on the fact that the outer bearing is not designed to be removed from the housing without being damaged. Just clean up and re-pack.
Bill |
In Bentley chap. 9, pg 15-17, it details how to lubricate the front and rear wheel bearings... with a note in each section that says, "except 1973 and later models". However, nothing is mentioned about working on 1973+ models.
So if I understand you correctly, I just need to remove the old grease with the bearings in place, and repack with fresh grease? No new seals or anything else is required?
WilliamM: Hehe... You're welcome to have a BUS if you prefer. I won't hold it against you.
_________________
-Kent-
1976 Riviera, 1.8l FI chrome yellow VAN - "Chloe"
"I must say, how can you be in a bad mood driving this vehicle full of vibrant color.
Cars of today are so bland in comparison. It's like driving a celebration!" ---WildIdea
Bus ownership via emoticons:
         ---williamM |
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rockerarm
Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2009
Posts: 3552
Location: Los Angeles
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| Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2017 10:48 am Post subject: Re: Another poor sap with Bus fever |
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Hi. Yeah I see that. Don't know what they were thinking?? Wonder if the Vanagon Bentley manual would have the same/similar language towards the rear wheel bearings.
If you elect to perform this job, the outer bearing, if it looks ok, would remain in the housing. The inner bearing is easily removable. Still would use 4 grease seals for the total job plus a quality grease. While cleanliness doesn't need to be near surgical, as in an engine, some greases aren't compatible with others.
Bill. |
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williamM
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Joined: August 07, 2008
Posts: 4333
Location: southwest Arizona
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| Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2017 11:58 am Post subject: Re: Another poor sap with Bus fever |
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As far as your alt goes- you may have the 70 amp "camper" alt there- in which case you will have a different cooling boot than the more common 55amp. ALSO- (ask stu) the (+) out put is too long on replacement alt- so the tin cover will short out and cause havoc. Make sure --if your replacing-- to trim that stud down to the minimums and cover with insulator sheet of some kind.
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opinion untempered by fact is ignorance.
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airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12722
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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| Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2017 4:15 pm Post subject: Re: Another poor sap with Bus fever |
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| williamM wrote: |
| As far as your alt goes- you may have the 70 amp "camper" alt there- in which case you will have a different cooling boot than the more common 55amp. ALSO- (ask stu) the (+) out put is too long on replacement alt- so the tin cover will short out and cause havoc. Make sure --if your replacing-- to trim that stud down to the minimums and cover with insulator sheet of some kind. |
I don't think the 70-amp alternators (AL108X) were around with the 1700 dual carb engines. (Ask Stu?) I think they came around later when the fridges and Eberspacher heaters improved.
Either way, alternator removal with the engine out can be a little harder, since the access to the bottom of the engine is limited. You'll want the lower right tin off, and need the long alternator bolt out from that access point. Perhaps let sleeping dogs lie, and work with your bigger fish to fry.
I'll stop trying to write lyrics in my technical posts now…
Robbie
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KentABQ
Samba Member
Joined: September 11, 2016
Posts: 2406
Location: Albuquerque NM
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 8:07 am Post subject: Re: Another poor sap with Bus fever |
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Ahhhhh... such a display of beauty...
It is clean! Well, clean enough for my skills and patience anyway.  It's taken about 10 hours of cleaning to get here, and I'm happy with the appearance.
Now it's time for the fun stuff! First on the list is the new thermostat...
_________________
-Kent-
1976 Riviera, 1.8l FI chrome yellow VAN - "Chloe"
"I must say, how can you be in a bad mood driving this vehicle full of vibrant color.
Cars of today are so bland in comparison. It's like driving a celebration!" ---WildIdea
Bus ownership via emoticons:
---williamM |
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williamM
Samba Member
Joined: August 07, 2008
Posts: 4333
Location: southwest Arizona
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 8:12 am Post subject: Re: Another poor sap with Bus fever |
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sounds like a bumper sticker ---- think he's on an engine stand by now- Hows your trip going? no mishaps/bumps/tires to report?
Thought I read a Stuart post where his alt (+ ) post had grounded out on his alt plate- might have been someone else
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some days I get up and just sit and think. Some days I just sit.
opinion untempered by fact is ignorance.
Don't step in any! |
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rockerarm
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Joined: December 16, 2009
Posts: 3552
Location: Los Angeles
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 8:41 am Post subject: Re: Another poor sap with Bus fever |
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Morning. Someone' been busy
Entertain the idea of removing the fan shroud. Once this is done you are able to:
1- Inspect the rear motor mounts. They aren't as robust as the engine/trans cradle are and take a beating from the heat and possibly oil leaks in that area.
2- There is a crank pulley seal and o-ring you can inspect.
3- This is a way to access your alternator and related parts, such as the cover, boot, and harness.
4- Dipstick boot takes a beating.
5- Look at the oil cooler and replace its 2 seals with the correct material seals.
6- And finally. With the owner getting comfortable and building confidence with the shroud assy's removal it assures no fuc ups in that area that could hound him later on. The shroud removal is possible with the engine in the bus.
Hope this helps, Bill |
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williamM
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Joined: August 07, 2008
Posts: 4333
Location: southwest Arizona
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 8:55 am Post subject: Re: Another poor sap with Bus fever |
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| rockerarm wrote: |
Morning. Someone' been busy
Entertain the idea of removing the fan shroud. Once this is done you are able to:
1- Inspect the rear motor mounts. They aren't as robust as the engine/trans cradle are and take a beating from the heat and possibly oil leaks in that area.
2- There is a crank pulley seal and o-ring you can inspect.
3- This is a way to access your alternator and related parts, such as the cover, boot, and harness.
4- Dipstick boot takes a beating.
5- Look at the oil cooler and replace its 2 seals with the correct material seals.
6- And finally. With the owner getting comfortable and building confidence with the shroud assy's removal it assures no fuc ups in that area that could hound him later on. The shroud removal is possible with the engine in the bus.
Hope this helps, Bill |
and you can replace the bottom 2 studs with bolts so the thing will come out later without LOTS of swearing.
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some days I get up and just sit and think. Some days I just sit.
opinion untempered by fact is ignorance.
Don't step in any! |
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KentABQ
Samba Member
Joined: September 11, 2016
Posts: 2406
Location: Albuquerque NM
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 9:42 am Post subject: Re: Another poor sap with Bus fever |
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| rockerarm wrote: |
Morning. Someone' been busy
Entertain the idea of removing the fan shroud. Once this is done you are able to:
1- Inspect the rear motor mounts. They aren't as robust as the engine/trans cradle are and take a beating from the heat and possibly oil leaks in that area.
2- There is a crank pulley seal and o-ring you can inspect.
3- This is a way to access your alternator and related parts, such as the cover, boot, and harness.
4- Dipstick boot takes a beating.
5- Look at the oil cooler and replace its 2 seals with the correct material seals.
6- And finally. With the owner getting comfortable and building confidence with the shroud assy's removal it assures no fuc ups in that area that could hound him later on. The shroud removal is possible with the engine in the bus.
Hope this helps, Bill |
Okay, a few more good ideas. Shroud of Chloe is coming off.
I wish I had a stand to support the drivetrain, as it is being supported by 3 jack stands currently. I have the engine stand and super-duper special yoke, but it doesn't do much good right now. Is separating the trans from the engine a good idea for a newbie to tackle?
Now for a new question: TSII location.
Since the engine is from a '73, it didn't originally have FI, and therefore no TSII port. From chatting with Rockerarm, there appear to be two options...
One option is using one of the smog pump injection ports (shown in the pic covered with a small piece of foil tape). Here is the doodad that went into that port...
It is threaded M10x1.0, the same as the TSII, but the threaded portion is about 1.5" down inside the exhaust port. In the pic, I show a brown line as being the surface of the head. There may be some way to thread the hole and use a threaded bushing sized for the TSII. (Similar to repairing threads on a stripped spark plug hole.)
The second option seems much more obvious after pm-ing with Rockerarm.
There is a boss located down below the left manifold stud (shown in the first pic). It can be drilled and tapped for the TSII.
But will either of these interfere with the engine tin when it's installed?
Hey, does anyone have a pic of where their TSII is installed? That would help.
Thanks for everyone's inputs! I'm listening to and learning from everything I can.
_________________
-Kent-
1976 Riviera, 1.8l FI chrome yellow VAN - "Chloe"
"I must say, how can you be in a bad mood driving this vehicle full of vibrant color.
Cars of today are so bland in comparison. It's like driving a celebration!" ---WildIdea
Bus ownership via emoticons:
---williamM |
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KentABQ
Samba Member
Joined: September 11, 2016
Posts: 2406
Location: Albuquerque NM
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 9:44 am Post subject: Re: Another poor sap with Bus fever |
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| williamM wrote: |
| and you can replace the bottom 2 studs with bolts so the thing will come out later without LOTS of swearing. |
Which 2 studs are you referring to, Bill?
...other than Robbie and me, of course... 
_________________
-Kent-
1976 Riviera, 1.8l FI chrome yellow VAN - "Chloe"
"I must say, how can you be in a bad mood driving this vehicle full of vibrant color.
Cars of today are so bland in comparison. It's like driving a celebration!" ---WildIdea
Bus ownership via emoticons:
---williamM |
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aerosurfer
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2012
Posts: 1602
Location: Indianapolis, IN
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 10:17 am Post subject: Re: Another poor sap with Bus fever |
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Separating the trans is 2 nuts and 2 bolts, one of which you likely have out already if the starter is removed. Piece of cake. Transmission weighs about 80 pounds, so it's easy to shimmy them apart and move out of the way.
Press in a new starter bushing while it's out. It's a cheap little brass ring that sits inside the bellousing. Now is the time to do it, same with a general starter and solenoid R&R, no real parts needed, just some time and high temp grease for the solenoid.
The fan shroud is held onto the engine by 4 nuts inside of the fan. He is talking about removing at least the lower 2 studs and replacing them with bolts. That way if you ever need to change the oil cooler, oil seals, oil pump, replace shroud, cooling flaps, look at cylinder tops, more access to your rear main seal, or just get a front and center view of the rearward side of your motor while it's still installed, you can easily rotate the shroud rearward to lift it out of the heaterboxes and off the engine. I did it.... I'm happy if I ever need to get back in there I will be able to.
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Rebuild your own FI Harness..My Harness
77 Westy 2.0L Rockin and Rolling Resto!
72 Sportsmobile (sold)
79 Tran$porter... Parts car money machine (gone) |
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williamM
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Joined: August 07, 2008
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Location: southwest Arizona
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 10:58 am Post subject: Re: Another poor sap with Bus fever |
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what he said--
You don't really know the condition of your clutch- they are like light bulbs- they rather quickly fail after the first flicker- so I would definitely pop the pressure plate (mark it for reassembly) and at least inspect the disc for wear and signs of slippage - then step on the pressure plate and see if it has any resistance- nice to have a new one to compare it to though. You will also want to measure the disc as VW made several sizes --so if you need to change it out- on the road, would be nice to know which PP you have.
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some days I get up and just sit and think. Some days I just sit.
opinion untempered by fact is ignorance.
Don't step in any! |
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airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12722
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 12:07 pm Post subject: Re: Another poor sap with Bus fever |
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| KentPS wrote: |
Which 2 studs are you referring to, Bill?
...other than Robbie and me, of course... |
I would try a threaded insert in the top of the air injection hole. It's going to be tough to find a M10x1.0 insert, and I don't think a heli-coil would give you the heat transfer you would want.
Robbie
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KentABQ
Samba Member
Joined: September 11, 2016
Posts: 2406
Location: Albuquerque NM
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 5:20 pm Post subject: Re: Another poor sap with Bus fever |
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| williamM wrote: |
| You don't really know the condition of your clutch- they are like light bulbs- they rather quickly fail after the first flicker- |
Would it make sense to just replace it, and keep the old one as a spare, if it's in decent shape? I mean, as long as I'm in the vicinity, why not?
And if so, order a new one from...? What other clutch parts should I get while I'm at it?
_________________
-Kent-
1976 Riviera, 1.8l FI chrome yellow VAN - "Chloe"
"I must say, how can you be in a bad mood driving this vehicle full of vibrant color.
Cars of today are so bland in comparison. It's like driving a celebration!" ---WildIdea
Bus ownership via emoticons:
---williamM |
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busdaddy
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Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51145
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 5:31 pm Post subject: Re: Another poor sap with Bus fever |
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| asiab3 wrote: |
| KentPS wrote: |
Which 2 studs are you referring to, Bill?
...other than Robbie and me, of course... |
I would try a threaded insert in the top of the air injection hole. It's going to be tough to find a M10x1.0 insert, and I don't think a heli-coil would give you the heat transfer you would want.
Robbie
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A well seated helicoil should provide adequate heat transfer, if it's weak the worst that can happen is it stays rich a little longer during warm up, some buses required the TS2 extender to do that anyways in some climates. You'll still have to plug the hole deeper down first with a valve adjuster screw as a plug. The boss on the rocker box is for the 411/412 breather system, it'll likely take a while to warm up as well but should work fine. Option #3 would be above the plug like the 75 systems had, can't see the boss for that in that pic as it's out of the frame.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
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wcfvw69
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Joined: June 10, 2004
Posts: 13389
Location: Arizona
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 6:15 pm Post subject: Re: Another poor sap with Bus fever |
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| KentPS wrote: |
| williamM wrote: |
| You don't really know the condition of your clutch- they are like light bulbs- they rather quickly fail after the first flicker- |
Would it make sense to just replace it, and keep the old one as a spare, if it's in decent shape? I mean, as long as I'm in the vicinity, why not?
And if so, order a new one from...? What other clutch parts should I get while I'm at it? |
I'm with William. My engine is out on the floor right now changing the pressure plate. I had it off two years ago to inspect the clutch disc. The disc look good but I FAILED to notice how old the pressure plate was AND that it was a remanufactured one. Fast forward two years later and the plate is going south causing a week clutch pedal.
You should at least remove the pressure plate and disc and inspect. Some units were date stamped their manufacture date.
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williamM
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Joined: August 07, 2008
Posts: 4333
Location: southwest Arizona
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 6:17 pm Post subject: Re: Another poor sap with Bus fever |
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| KentPS wrote: |
| williamM wrote: |
| You don't really know the condition of your clutch- they are like light bulbs- they rather quickly fail after the first flicker- |
Would it make sense to just replace it, and keep the old one as a spare, if it's in decent shape? I mean, as long as I'm in the vicinity, why not?
And if so, order a new one from...? What other clutch parts should I get while I'm at it? |
First you need to know what size it is-- and spares are a great idea,
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some days I get up and just sit and think. Some days I just sit.
opinion untempered by fact is ignorance.
Don't step in any! |
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KentABQ
Samba Member
Joined: September 11, 2016
Posts: 2406
Location: Albuquerque NM
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 6:25 pm Post subject: Re: Another poor sap with Bus fever |
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Here are the most beautiful VW clutch and transmission I have ever seen...
...as well as being the first VW clutch and trans I've ever seen.
Not knowing what to look for myself, does anything look like it's in need of help? Bentley's tells how to remove, install and troubleshoot, but doesn't give hints on what to look for. And since I've driven it about a total of 6 miles with a pair of problematic carbs, I don't remember how the clutch felt. Any thoughts?
Edit: Sorry Bills... I didn't see your posts until I had already added this one. I'll take off the pressure plate next.
_________________
-Kent-
1976 Riviera, 1.8l FI chrome yellow VAN - "Chloe"
"I must say, how can you be in a bad mood driving this vehicle full of vibrant color.
Cars of today are so bland in comparison. It's like driving a celebration!" ---WildIdea
Bus ownership via emoticons:
---williamM
Last edited by KentABQ on Wed Feb 22, 2017 6:37 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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busdaddy
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Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 6:36 pm Post subject: Re: Another poor sap with Bus fever |
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Looks suspiciously clean in there.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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Spike0180
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Joined: June 06, 2015
Posts: 2269
Location: Detroit, Michigan
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2017 6:41 pm Post subject: Re: Another poor sap with Bus fever |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| Looks suspiciously clean in there. |
agreed, That thing is spotless... like it was serviced less than 1000 miles ago fresh.
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