1966 Baja - PorkChop

[ThePorkChopExpress]

Hello There,

Its about time to introduce you to Pork Chop the Beetle. I plan to use this Thread as a running log of the build.

Pork Chop Specs:
1966 VW Bug with removable fiberglass hood
Built 1776 engine
002 transmission
bumper to bumper cage
PRP Seats (Front and Rear)
BTR Wheels
HD Tube Style 3x3 IRS rear with dual shocks and Type 4 CV
Disk Brakes on all four
6 in over front beam with Racerunner Coilover
Rack and Pinon

Dream:
Google Trans America Trail (TAT) and view many ride reports on ADVRider site. 5K miles almost coast to coast (TN to OR Coast) 90% off-road. The number 1 priority is reliability. The Number 1.1 priority is suspension and comfort while hitting those fire/jeep/gravel roads.

Thoughts:
My 1776 engine allows me to cruise 50-55 at or about 2800-3k RPM. The PC doesn't seem to mind that all day long here in California. So I know the engine is capable of getting down the road. My current focus is my suspension. It has the foundation already. I just need to figure the right combo of parts to give me that plush ride and not feel every bump. I want her to float!!! I still want the Engine with reliability and triple the horses if I need it. But I don't want to blow my 002. So on the fence with the VTec. With the Trans I would like to see if I can get a Granny Gear for the first and then a 3 speed for everything else. Not sure the cost or vendor. And a form of True Trac or LSD.

I was wanting to build my own Baja From a stock beetle and do everything that came with this Bug. But I was afraid that would wind up with a 80% done project and in need to thousands more to complete. So I found this for less than parts alone. I know next to nothing but have my reading material (Recommended Books and repair Manuals) standing by. If any of you have suggestions and recommendations for anything below or items I don't mention Tell me and point me in the right direction!!

Goals:
- Engine Swap of Some Sort (need a little more gitty up and go and not wanting to spend 4k on a trans)
- Ecotec
- VTec

- Suspension (my spine is fearful of pot holes)
- Fix what I got or
- A-Arm Conversion

- Windshield Wiper System
- Wiper/Motor/Switch/Arms ect

- Fuel Gauge
- Fix - Reads full all the time which is great until you are waiting on the wife to bring fuel.... and gas can.... or to find gas can... (Installed on Spun Gas Tank... Something with sender maybe

- Baja Mirrors
- Need to clear vent windows to direct air into the cab

- Safari Windows
- Front and sides

- Same Wheel and Tire on All Four Corners
- Looking at keeping current rears (15x7) and selling fronts (15x4 approx.) Hopefully the offset will keep the track front to rear the same

- Radio
- Get current one working or replaced. Thinking of placing in glove box.
- Install a CB Radio

- Dash
- Replace center Dash with Outlet and Switch Pannel
- Already Bought Inserts, replace current insert and relocated Tach (Mounted below) to the dash (Left side)

- Seats
- Find Reclining Comfortable Seats that fold Forward (Possible Tacoma Reg Cab) to access the rear easier

- Dual LED Light Bar
- As Seen on Urban Assaut: San Diego Shark Attack Video... the Stance of that bug I love... I like how the Dual LED Bars look because it seems to work with the Bugs lines. Now I don't have the 250K to build a Trophy Bug but one can dream bit by bit

- Work on the Front End (Trunk, Hood... Whatever its called... Bonnet)
- PO sure felt the need to beef this up with heavy piping (as with cage) I would like to figure out how to store a spare tire under there somehow.

- Gas Tank Locations
- The PO had 2 fuel spouts installed in the roof. Not sure why for 2. He had it tucked behind the rear seat and then moved it to the front. I am torn on finding a safe rectangle Tank and install back behind seats or keep where its at in front. Current is 10 Gallons.

- Jerry Can Holder (2) Mounted in front of Rear Tires as seen is some photos.

Rear Tire Moved to the Front w/ Hood

Rear Tire Moved to the Front w/o Hood

Rear Tire Moved to Front Side Angle w/o Hood

[enjoyther1de]

You can change the springs for a softer ride. Personally I'd take it out to the desert, try and break it then worry about upgrades. My bet is that car is set up to ride like a caddy at about 45 through the whoops. Shock tuning and spring rates are your friend.
If you want to go a- arm, be prepared to coil over the rear and then you need more horsepower naturally. It's a never ending cycle of self destruction. Which is why my car is stock.
_________________
HBB took me to BBV.

[oldschool5er]

I say fix what you got as it is really close to what is neccesary to do the job. Skip the safari front window that cost savings alone will give you the cash to put combo spindles on the front. I can list a bunch of reasons not to use it even though the idea is so attractive. I have always run a rear tank and if you go more than 10 gal (better than carrying jerry cans) the rear is the best place for it, maybe keep both a front and rear? Seems like you need a Baja prepped for self dependance so you need to think about fuel and water. Although I don't like anything on the roof because of low hanging branches hitting stuff lights etc. In this case maybe a roof rack for carrying spares and a tire would work if you are careful in your trailing. Once you go to H2O motor you are opening up a lot of additional requirements that take up room and weight distribution and probably a new rear cage. This Baja should be comfortable enough for even my old bones with some minor upgrades and suspension tuning as has been said. Your just going to be trailing not racing. Maybe just upgrade the motor to a 1915 and put in quality stuff to keep it reliable. Bottom line is a H2O upgrade really needed if you had a better built air cooled motor that had some more go to it. Looks like you already have a motor in it that can be upgraded into something better and still keeping most of the components you already have. IMO you are close to a Baja that can get you your goal much sooner than if you start modding the suspension and adding H20 motor.
_________________
HRE in Westerville,Ohio

Full machine shop with all types of CNC. Rapid prototyping available, CNC Plasma cutting, 3D printing and Laser engraving.

[dustymojave]

I can't disagree with anything oldschool5er said above.

If you're going cross country, stuff in a roof rack will not improve your highway performance that you're already concerned about. Neither would gas cans on the side.

It could use $3-400 worth of stronger spindles than stock Bug. But does it need a couple thousand dollars worth of engine management wiring?

Vtec, as in Honda, rotates the wrong direction. Not all Hondas do, but Civic engines do. You can spend more money getting a reverse rotation cam and the extra cost of the computer and wiring to reverse the firing order. They scream, but don't typically have a lot of torque.

There are a couple of small Ford 4 cylinders and there is the Ecotec. Ecotec is cheapest wrecking yard motor, but the cost of computer and wire harness ain't cheap. Then where to put the radiator, etc. ...
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[ThePorkChopExpress]

Sorry for the delay in responding. Family is visiting and it has been busy.

Oldschooler - You hit the nail on the head. I just need guidance on how to progress without wasting funds on items that are not needed. I want function before bling

- Gas Tank I don't want to replace the rear seat with a fuel cell but I am willing to place a tank behind the rear seat.

- Last night I ran into a problem. I have a CNC clutch and brake pedal setup and my brake peddle was a little squishy. As I was driving, the pedal firmed up and after a few miles when I came to a stoplight, the pedal became hard as a rock. Well... The brake never released. So troubleshooting has begun.
I had to load on my trailer by bleeding 1 wheel to release the pressure so I can drive up the ramps. As soon as I pressed the pedal it was already still.

My guess is a few areas. The PO converted to 4 wheel disk with custom setup with CNC(unknown Maker)
- The proportioning valve (Assuming it has one),
- Master Cylinder not functioning properly (No idea how to test),
- Line Lock (Would rather have a traditional E-Brake instead),
- Trash in the lines causing blockage.

Back to the Original suggestions from Olds..
- What's the best way to play with PSI and Spring Rates to dial in the suspension?

- Biggest Goal is that Plush Ride. Spirited Driving and slow driving. I'm use to playing with Damping with the XP900 and fox shocks but not sure now to work with this setup.

Again, Thank you for the time and helping a youngin.