Valve gap problem

[robin.richard]

Okay, I looked this issue up and I may have a major problem on my hands.

I attempted to check and adjust the valve gaps today and discovered my No. 1 exhaust valve was so tight I couldn't even get a .004 in the gap, even with the screw removed. All other valves are GTG. I turned the engine over thru all cylinders several times and still no luck.

Per the forum it sounds like the valve may have stretched, broke, or seated in the head, although I'm Not sure if this is the problem or not.

Not sure how or when this happened. Didn't hear anything bad and didn't notice a difference in the engine's performance. It is my daily driver and I last drove it this morning moving cars in the driveway.

Advice?

If I have to pull the engine this will be my first time. Could I just pull the head off (once engine is removed) and go from there? What would be my next step? Is this a total rebuild? How difficult? Possible parts list?

Since this is my daily driver I may look for a replacement engine to hold me off until my current engine is fixed. Running a 1600 SP now and like the idea of stock engines. Anyone in southern VA with a good used 1600 SP they would be willing to sell?

Look forward to your advice and comments.

-Rich, just a little disappointed but will learn from this experience.
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[tasb]

Rich, sounds like you will be needing to pick up a repair manual. The most often recommended are the John Muir Idiot book and the Bentley workshop manual. In order to remove a cylinder head you need to do at least a top end take down. that is the only way to get at all the hardware holding the head to the cylinders.
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Roads Scholar &
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

[BarryL]

[robin.richard]

BarryL,

That's a very good question. I'll check in a few.

Tabs,

Already have both. I was hoping it was something I was missing. I wonder if it could be the cotter that retains the valve stem in the valve spring/spring cap. It it the spring cap that is all the way up against the rocker arm and preventing the gap guide from fitting, not the valve end.

-Rich
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[crofty]

Are you sure you are at TDC for #1 and not #3?
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[robin.richard]

Crafty,

Yes, TDC on #1. Only the exhaust valve is giving problems. All other valves are good to go at .006.

BarryL,

Yes, the rocker arm moves as the shaft is turned. It looks like it is a little higher, but hard to tell in the tight quarters. If I tighten the screw inward I can see the valve and spring move inward. It is only after I remove the screw that I can just get a .006 in, but it has to be forced.

Strange thing is I just checked the valves about 1000 miles ago. Only needed a few fine adjustments. I Never replaced the cover gasket last time. I just noticed some leaking so I was replacing the gaskets and though why not check while I'm down here and now this.

I put the bus in the garage (a storm is coming) I guess I get to pull the engine. There is a first time for everything and what does not kill you only makes you stronger.

- Rich
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[tasb]

Is there someone else in your area who could look at what you've got? Even a veteran can sometimes mess things up and get flustered.
_________________
Roads Scholar &
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

[BarryL]

[robin.richard]

BarryL,

What does the cotton rope do? keep the piston from going all the way up?

I think I am going to bite the bullet and pull the engine to take a better look. This will be my first time. Since I have had this bus for approximately five years now its about time and I'll learn something new in the process and I have a few leaking rod tubes to take care of as well.

I have a lead on a good used engine here in VA. Need something to run the bus until I figure out the issues with my current engine. It may also be good to have an extra engine in the garage for occasions like this. It is a used 1600 SP long block. Waiting for photos. Anything to look for when buying a used engine? I'm sure the list is long, but any tips would be welcomed. Cracked case (where to look for?) comes to mind. Good even compression in all cylinders? Etc.

Anyway, I'll post an update once I pull the engine. In the mean time keep the advice coming, it helps.

-Rich
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[mandraks]

[BarryL]

[BarryL]

[JohnnyRingo]

[robin.richard]

JohnnyRingo,

Thanks for the lead here in VA. If the current deal falls through I'll give him a call. Need to get my bus back on the road!

Too much rain to do anything else today so I pulled the engine. It was my first time and it was a snap, very easy. Hell, it was harder removing the bumper than the engine.

Before I pulled the engine I noticed my manifold was cracked badly, see pic. The wide crack is about 8 inches long. What could have caused this?

I also noticed oil in the bell housing. I guess it's a main seal issue. Funny thing is I had it replaced a year ago, or so they said they replaced it and charged me for the seal and labor. One more questionable repair a local shop has preformed.

So, I will take all the tin off and examine the engine and heads closer and see if I can determine what is going on with #1's exhaust valve.

I'll post more photos once I remove the tin.

-Rich
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[robin.richard]

Okay, I started to disassemble my engine, what a mess. You can see where I had a oil cooler leak. The previously unnamed shop replaced the seals for me but the cylinders remained a mess. Number 3 and 2 are a real mess. They are covered in old dirt/oil now in a tar like state. No wonder she was running a little hot this summer.

When I removed the manifold it too was a mess. All caked around the head and the heat risers were clogged.

And here is the cracked manifold.

I'm going to stop here for now. How can I clean the block, cylinders and heads at this point without water damage.

-Rich
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[tasb]

Except for that cracked intake manifold it looks pretty typical. plug all the holes with rags and use engine degreaser wiping off with a damp rag. Avoid using pressurized water or air.
_________________
Roads Scholar &
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

[robin.richard]

Thanks tasb.

But as they say, a clean engine is a happy, cool engine. I'll get out the degreaser and rags and get to work. It's got to be better, cooler if the cylinders are clean.

I did notice the build up of grime around the head intake was bad and might be an indication of a vacuum leak, correct? There were no gaskets used between the head and manifold. Shouldn't there be the aluminum type?

Also, as I disassembled the engine to clean and inspect I am going to replace some seals and reinstall a thermostat. Looking at my cooling flaps (previously wired open by PO) it looks like I am missing some parts. I know I should have the spring that keeps them closed, but it also looks like the actuation arm is different from what I have seen on other examples. Take a look. What am I missing?

Thanks for all your help!

-Rich
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Drive your bus!

[BarryL]

That actually doesn't look that bad but definitely needs cleaning and reseal. You heads show sign of being loose. The crack is in the heatsink part not the actual vacuum pipe, I believe. Did you have a large carb on it or did someone use the carb as a handle?

[robin.richard]

BarryL,

With regards to the heads, can I just tighten them as long as it's in specs? Also, I would like to remove the #1 and #2 head to check the troubled exhaust valve, is this possible without f'n something up?

I also found no seals between the manifold and headers. Should there be?

I was using a 30PIC 1 carb so I don't think that was it. The only other time the engine was out was a year ago when a local shop replaced my generator and replaced the main seal and oil cooler seals. Didn't notice the crack until I was taking all the electrical leads off. But it wouldn't surprise me if it was during those repairs.

-Rich
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Drive your bus!

[tasb]

There should be seals at manifold and head and at exhaust and head. Once the intake is removed the cylinder head can be removed. There's mnot much that can be messed up at that point. Use a rubber mallet if you need to do some tapping to get things loose.
_________________
Roads Scholar &
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse