Running rough when cold... any simple help appreciated.

[HugoBug]

Hi everyone,

I posted a fair while ago about my daughters bug "Hugo" and you were all very helpful ****THANK YOU*****

So an update.....I got the car through our MOT test (roadworthy test) and we have been using him over summer with ongoing work, problems and adjustments. I finally got the car running well and new brakes and tires. My daughter has been gaining confidence in driving him after not driving much since passing her test.
Unfortunately my business has gone pop and I'm close to filing for bankruptcy and very stressed at the moment and trying to find a new job. Now the Beetle won't run properly from cold (UK cold), he fires ok first time but you have to catch the fire on the throttle and it immediately starts to misfire. The idle is too slow and lumpy to trust not to stall so when i drive him i cover the throttle and break with the handbrake. If he stalls he won't restart for 30 minutes. If you hold the revs quite high for 2 mins the misfire smooths out and within a mile he runs ok. Once warmed up the car runs great. It's not so great at restarting after filling up but if you catch the revs its ok. I have replaced the needle valve with a brand new one but it still weeps fuel from the spindle after switching off from hot.
I have checked the auto choke and the flap appears to be opening and warming up ok. It's like the carb is over fuelling when cold, sort of flooding it's self. I don't have time to start removing the carb and rebuilding it again and really have greater things to worry about than the bug but I feel guilty that Ellie can't confidently take the car to work in the morning. She might have to sell him and get a modern car but after all the work its a real shame. Can anyone give any simple checks or advice?

Thanks again

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1973 1303S with 1.3 Engine

[Cusser]

Is the choke heater wired up to coil positive terminal #15 ?

When cold, take off air cleaner and look at choke butterfly; should be essentially horizontal. Replace air cleaner.

When warmed up, take off air cleaner and look at choke butterfly; should be essentially vertical.

Post your findings.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[HugoBug]

Before I say yes, I will double check the wire for sure but I know the principal operation of the flap from years of other solex/zenith carburettor vehicles. With everything that's going on I could have overlooked something so I will check when I get home this evening. Thank you
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1973 1303S with 1.3 Engine

[sb001]

Hugo can you give us a bit of a recap on what's been done to alleviate this problem so far? I remember you changing the carb float out because the first one was damaged. With weeping fuel out of the carb spindle (I assume you mean the throttle shaft) it sounds like the carb needs a rebushing. This would not explain the overfilling of the fuel bowl though- IF that's what's happening there are 3 possible causes- needle valve still bad or wrong gaskets underneath, float inside carb still damaged or leaking causing it to sink into the fuel and not rise up to shut off the needle valve, or fuel pump pumping WAY too much pressure. Since you've already replaced the float (I assume--can't remember) I have a feeling we need to measure the output pressure of your fuel pump, which you would need a pressure gauge for. Anything around 3psi should be pretty much OK. Much higher than that and the needle valve may not restrict the fuel from still coming into the carb.
I looked through your gallery pics and can only find one picture of the engine not very close up- can you possibly take a few closeup photos of the engine bay, maybe we can spot something off. Especially the carb, fuel pump area.
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I'm the humblest guy on this board.

1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor

[HugoBug]

I will take some more photos tomorrow and post.

So far I've.........
Replaced the fuel pipes front to back,
Rebuilt the carb with the kit
Replaced the float (incidentally the float is exactly the same as is fitted to the solex carbed Opel Manta! I had lots in the garage).
Replaced the needle valve with a new one.
Points, condenser replaced.
Plugs checked and re-gapped
Timing set statically and fine tuned with a gun.
Valve clearances done and rechecked.
Lots of swearing, banged my head.
Changed the oil.

Car runs great when warmed up, idle is spot on, doesn't stall at lights anymore. Runs like *hit for first 3-4 minutes!

Oh and when it starts in a morning it blows a big puff of white/light grey smoke out, doesn't smoke when warmed up.
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1973 1303S with 1.3 Engine

[Frodge]

Choke pull off?

[sb001]

[HugoBug]

What is Choke pull off?

I just got home from work and rescued her abandoned bug from half way down the road where Ellie left him ((incidentally Hugo is the car, after his licence plate, I'm James)).
He started for me but ran shocking, sounds like three cylinders. Drove him 300 feet and he was putting like a kitten! I took a video, don't know if I can upload it direct to here?
Anyway, the fast idle screw is on the upper most position and the flap in the upper body is completely closed. The wire to the auto choke is running to the same point the idle solenoid is connected on the coil. I will take more photos in the light.
My gut instinct says the float is overflowing or the carb fuel bowl thing is leaking its fuel down into the manifold over night and flooding one cylinder with excess fuel. That means the car can only initially run on 3 cylinders until the wet plug dries after a minute or 2. Once the 4th cylinder kicks in then the car runs fine? Is that possible?
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1973 1303S with 1.3 Engine

[Tim Donahoe]

Have you attempted to adjust your automatic choke? Have you used a test lamp to see if juice is flowing to the wire on the choke?

When you replaced the float, did you make sure the convex part of the bow was toward the cabin?

Tim
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Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[HugoBug]

[HugoBug]

Two pics from tonight. Will take more in the light
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1973 1303S with 1.3 Engine

[wcfvw69]

Can you post a picture of your entire engine? I'm curious as to what's hooked up for the engine's preheat. Does this engine have the thermostat and flaps in the fan shroud? How about the stove pipe and warm air hose to the oil bath?

Which distributor and how's it timed? Last question. What's the float level set to inside the carb?
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[HugoBug]

[HugoBug]

This was taken tonight, sorry the light is poor but this is after revving the car for 2 minutes to clear the initial misfire. The problem is in that first few minutes.
https://youtu.be/7fp_kblF6CU
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1973 1303S with 1.3 Engine

[Frodge]

I'm wondering if there is an obstruction somewhere in the fuel lines or filter.

[sb001]

where is your air cleaner? I don't see it in any pics

Never mind I see it now in the video
_________________
I'm the humblest guy on this board.

1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor

[wcfvw69]

[HugoBug]

[Volks Wagen]

Your symptoms point to a bad float level.

Did you do this like suggested last August 06? You seem to have ignored the recommendations to set float level, which will give you nothing but problems - like flooding or starving u for fuel at sustained higher revs.

You should try a 1.5mm washer under the needle valve to set the appropriate fuel level for your carb. Then to make sure all is ok and nothing is bent or so, run the motor and then shut it off, check to see how far the fuel is down from the top of the open float bowl rim in mm and post back. This will finally put an end to the float issue.

Incidentally, when I was 19, I had the EXACT same problem as this, also lived on a hill and had to use the handbreak and throttle as described so I know it is no fun. Could be just one little 1.5mm washer and Ellie is off safely.

[HugoBug]