Subaru 2.2 IAC valve replacement

[16CVs]

So after a road trip to DOB I realized that my idle is erratic, lumpy sometimes, high sometimes and then perfectly normal. I have a Ken Welter built 2.2 which has gotten some some attention as I go along.
New Subaru Injectors, Cam Sensor, knock Sensor and Crank Sensor. In for a penny in for a pound.
I called my private Subaru Tech line and asked what could cause such an issue, he laughed and said " if you could figure that out, let him know " he did say that the most likely suspect was a bad IAC, so off to Subaru I went. $275.00 later ,it's installed and it seems to have a better idle and maybe smoother transition from parked to rolling. He said they are usually gunked up or stuck or just plain worn out as we never know how many miles our 60K motors really have on them. The old one physically looks good, the little flap moves and there was not a lot of Gunk inside it.
Total job was about an hour, you have to did to get to it and remove the PCV valve and a few hoses and wires to get o the lower bolts. While in there I saw a few thing to be replaced as well. There is a Plastic "T" and some formed hoses that are getting old. If they cracked you would run rough from Vacuum leaks. I don't drive this van every day, but when I do drive it , it is usually a fair distance 500- 1500 miles in a few days. So I like it dependable and smooth running.
If you have replaced one of these and have a long term comment, speak up I'd love to hear about it.



Stacy
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1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread.

[Weezyissuperfast]

Interesting. Did you get the IAC trouble code? One of my vans has an EJ22, and the only code (OBD 1) that I can't get rid of is the IAC. I've debated swapping it out with a new one, but the price tag is quite steep. Mine idles just fine. I've seen in the 2.5's where this code is caused by a neutral switch, but that doesn't seem to be the issue here. Did you get the IAC as a Subaru OEM part? Or did you have to go aftermarket?

[16CVs]

Genuine Subaru OE. No codes but I have not checked stored codes. Technically OEM is aftermarket. (Original Equipment Manufacturer). OE is (Original Equipment).
So far all of my parts have been OE Subaru, O2 sensor, cam/crank/knock sensor etc. I am tired of buying non OE parts that just fail or add to the drama.
I figure if I just keep replacing 20 year old parts this will run on forever.

Stacy
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread.

[kalispell365]

My experience with these over the years is when I leave them around the shop for any amount of time I end up with around a 50 percent failure rate on the used ones. They don't always throw codes and they don't always work after being cleaned...que sera.

Use a heat gun on all the PCV hoses and tee, they will come apart easily without breaking. If you don't, they will almost always break at the tee. This is a good time to replace the small diameter coolant hoses that go in and out of the IAC, they are available cheaply at Napa and are identical to the originals, except made by Gates for way less money.
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1983 Diesel Vanagon Westfalia chassis with Subaru 2.2l

[davevickery]

There are a lot of Seafoam testimonials out there. It worked well for me fixing a lack of smoothness as you just come off idle or go from no throttle to just partial throttle. I could almost manage it with careful gas pedal but it was annoying. And it smoothed out the idle some too although that was not an issue. I tried adjusting the TPS and cleaning things and it would seem like that made a difference until it would come back. Seems like seafoam treatment through the intake actually cleaned something out.

[BCE56]

I have a slight idle lope just after cold start, and occasionally at idle when engine warm. Also a burble or pop on decel in gear. Suspect IACV sticky due to buildup.
Internet search shows disassembly and cleaning to restore function, but R&R looks like a PITA. Similar PITA to install a new one, and quite expensive.

I am told it is possible to improve function by simply spraying carb cleaner thru the inlet. This would be considerably less dramatic than Seafoam and might be effective.
Attention to MAF and throttle body, as well as cleaning of electrical contacts, and checking for vacuum leaks couldn't hurt.

I was planning to do this but haven't got around to it yet.
BUT I recently replaced the orig. plug wires and noticed an immediate improvement. So there is that...
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=BCE56=

'86 Syncro tintop
EJ22, OBD II early SC adapter plate conversion

Side project: '69 Frankenbug "It's alive!"