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Starter Button Wiring Problem...Help!!
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vamram Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 3:40 pm    Post subject: Re: Starter Button Wiring Problem...Help!! Reply with quote

I don't know if I need it or not, but many smart posters here recommend it so what the heck. I have one on my '72. I sure can't tell what it's doing based on sound or how long the car cranks before it starts, but I figure whatever good's happening is taking place in that little black box. That's about the extent of my personal faith!

Not to further reveal my electrical ineptitude Confused , but how do I know if the HSR has gone bad? The car stops cranking? Starts and dies?
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 4:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Starter Button Wiring Problem...Help!! Reply with quote

Hi. So, what's up? You don't have second thoughts here, do you? I understand. But recognize that many of the samba rangers here want you to install a new harness, new electrical ignition switch, new battery cables, new trans ground strap, and new starter to fix your specific concern! Many people here, to include me, can not afford to do this.
I currently have a daily driver type 1 and a type 2. Both cars have a Bosch relay for the terminal 50 circuit. And I would have it no other way with my current situation.
Recognize the fact that your car has been dicked with. There was a problem somewhere. The fix you have on your car is a bit of a mess, with two damn switches.
The installation of the HSR, as ashman40 supported, has some advantages you should consider:
1- The HSR will "overlook" some of the bogus wiring boo-boo's from the PO.
2- The HSR is a "plug-and-play" system and it does not compromise the integrity of your cars original wiring. It augments it with the HSR. It can be removed at any time.
Some will say that eventually the starter or the ignition switch will fail. But the argument is those parts can fail regardless of the HSR install.
If the HSR fails, as you asked, just jump terminal 30 to terminal 87.
WOW, that felt good. Just work it, as it does work well, Bill
The use of relays is not a fad here. For a couple of decades VW's have utilized relays for the horn circuit, the headlight circuit, and the starter circuit. Damn, on Pelican Parts, a Porsche/BMW site, a local SoCal gent was fab'ing up relays to offset the poor brake light switches available.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 4:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Starter Button Wiring Problem...Help!! Reply with quote

rockerarm wrote:
Hi. So, what's up? You don't have second thoughts here, do you? I understand. But recognize that many of the samba rangers here want you to install a new harness, new electrical ignition switch, new battery cables, new trans ground strap, and new starter to fix your specific concern! Many people here, to include me, can not afford to do this.
I currently have a daily driver type 1 and a type 2. Both cars have a Bosch relay for the terminal 50 circuit. And I would have it no other way with my current situation.
Recognize the fact that your car has been dicked with. There was a problem somewhere. The fix you have on your car is a bit of a mess, with two damn switches.
The installation of the HSR, as ashman40 supported, has some advantages you should consider:
1- The HSR will "overlook" some of the bogus wiring boo-boo's from the PO.
2- The HSR is a "plug-and-play" system and it does not compromise the integrity of your cars original wiring. It augments it with the HSR. It can be removed at any time.
Some will say that eventually the starter or the ignition switch will fail. But the argument is those parts can fail regardless of the HSR install.
If the HSR fails, as you asked, just jump terminal 30 to terminal 87.
WOW, that felt good. Just work it, as it does work well, Bill
The use of relays is not a fad here. For a couple of decades VW's have utilized relays for the horn circuit, the headlight circuit, and the starter circuit. Damn, on Pelican Parts, a Porsche/BMW site, a local SoCal gent was fab'ing up relays to offset the poor brake light switches available.


I was just asking, no cold feet at all. Like I said, I installed one in my '72 and still have two headlight relays staring me in the face which I'm going to install for the '72's headlights....later this winter.

Back to this '74 beauty: I got the HSR all wired up, including the 15 amp fuse close to the battery + terminal. But before connecting the battery cables back, I wanted to post this and see what you think of the various pieces...here's the junction where the positive goes to the batter + terminal:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

You can see that there's a thinner red wire in the bunch w/the end bound in electrical tape and not connected to anything. What is this wire for? Should I remove it?

Then I decided to look further and remove the big blob of electrical tape where the 3 fat and 1 thin red wire seem to meet...here's the ugliness that I found:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

This does not look safe or electrically efficient. The ends appear to be either soldered or glued together. I'd like to sort it out before going any further. What do you guys make of this?

BTW - definitely no new harness in this car's future, not as long as I own it!
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'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 6:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Starter Button Wiring Problem...Help!! Reply with quote

Hi. Yeah that looks kinda ugly. Originally, there was a rectangular, white colored, multi-plug connector for those wires. One goes to the battery, another to the alternator, and the third to the front of the car.
There's probably a multitude of ways to improve that. At a minimum, clean up the connectors individually. I'm sure the electrical connectors are available, but the white multi-plug not sure. It was used, probably, from '74 onward on type 1's.
It is quite possible that because of this there are voltage drops/loss' in the circuit that should start your car up. Just speculation here. Many folks here encourage owners to invest time individually cleaning connections AND magically some electrical gremlins disappear.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 9:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Starter Button Wiring Problem...Help!! Reply with quote

I'll be on the hunt for one of those plastic multi-plug connectors...

What about the thinner red wire that's not connected to anything? What was that wire supposed to connect to?
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'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 9:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Starter Button Wiring Problem...Help!! Reply with quote

Hi. Check out the wiring diagrams here for your car. But, think it is for the rear window defogger/fuse connector.
Wiring is in the technical section
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 5:06 am    Post subject: Re: Starter Button Wiring Problem...Help!! Reply with quote

That is a hard diagram to read for the "common man" like me. But it looks like that clump of wires belong to tracks 2,3, 22, 26-28, and switches A, J9, J34 and maybe E3 and J2.
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Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 5:55 am    Post subject: Re: Starter Button Wiring Problem...Help!! Reply with quote

Victor, I don't know if this helps, I would certainly take what Ashman says as definitive.

I have an alternator with internal regulator but the concept here is that the connector has been replaced with a circuit breaker. The fat red wire on the left is from the battery circuit breaker. The left red wire was from the alternator (it was redundant and has since been removed), the right red wire is feed to the fusebox.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is at the battery.
The 2 red wires from + terminal through back of car are to alternator and starter. Then 1 wire from + terminal to feed main circuit breaker.
The 3 wires on output of main circuit breaker are to the smaller circuit breaker in the first pic above, to an auxillary blade style fuseblock in the trunk (feeds headlights, stereo, amp), and to the start relay right next to the main circuit breaker. Start relay feed has an inline fuse.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Early-on pic. All wiring through tunnel is grommeted and shielded and has been routed away from any shifter components.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Other applications/preferences may vary, but this setup has worked perfectly for me.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 7:37 am    Post subject: Re: Starter Button Wiring Problem...Help!! Reply with quote

Tx - thanks for this, all great information. I don't have the luxury of completely replacing the harness, but let me ask you about a couple of the items you pointed out.

TX-73 wrote:

I have an alternator with internal regulator but the concept here is that the connector has been replaced with a circuit breaker....The left red wire was from the alternator (it was redundant and has since been removed)...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


What is that exact part that you used to replace the 4-wire connector? Is it something I can buy at a FLAPS? Can I use that w/out also installing the circuit breaker at the battery? Also, my alternator is externally regulated, so I guess I can't remove the 4th wire as you did.

TX-73 wrote:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Other applications/preferences may vary, but this setup has worked perfectly for me.


I followed your build, amazing work!
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Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
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Tim Donahoe
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 10:35 am    Post subject: Re: Starter Button Wiring Problem...Help!! Reply with quote

Go to the Classifieds. 1968 and Up Type 1 Bug. In that Search, type in Connector. At the bottom of the page, vwearl had 4-way connectors.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1407992

Or ... look in my post below for a better alternative.

Will this help?

Tim
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 2:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Starter Button Wiring Problem...Help!! Reply with quote

[quote="vamram"]Tx - thanks for this, all great information. I don't have the luxury of completely replacing the harness, but let me ask you about a couple of the items you pointed out.


What is that exact part that you used to replace the 4-wire connector? It's a 12v auto-reset circuit breaker, in this case if I remember right with 20 amp rating. This one has the attachment bracket. I get them from delcity or waytek but they are fairly common, might be available at FLAPS.
https://www.delcity.net/store/auto-reset-circuit-breakers-!-12-volt/p_198669.h_198848.t_1

Can I use that w/out also installing the circuit breaker at the battery? Yes

Also, my alternator is externally regulated, so I guess I can't remove the 4th wire as you did. Correct - in my case that fat red wire is a new larger-gauge wire I ran from the alternator to the battery, that's why I didn't need the smaller one anymore. 90 am alternator.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 4:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Starter Button Wiring Problem...Help!! Reply with quote

vamram wrote:
Also, my alternator is externally regulated, so I guess I can't remove the 4th wire as you did.

When it comes to the (thick red) B+ wire from the alternator, there is no difference between the internally and externally regulated alternators. For alternators, the B+ from the alternator, the #30 from the battery (+) and the red wire that runs to the fuse box must logically come together. In TX-73s setup the alternator B+ runs to the battery terminal instead of the junction. It's really not any different.

There should be 5-wires coming from the junction.
    B+ (Red/white) wire from the alternator
    #30 (red/white) wire from the battery (+)
    #30 (red/white) wire that runs to the fuse box
    #30 wire (small gauge red) wire that runs to the rear window defroster relay #30 terminal
    (Grey) wire that runs to the diagnostic test box in engine compartment


The difference between internally/externally regulated alternators is WHERE the #61 wire goes. For the externally regulated ones like yours, the #61 wire runs to the VR under the rear seat. From the VR, there are three wires (D+, D-, DF) that run to the 3-terminal alternator plug. For the internally regulated alternators the #61 wire is run all the way to the D+ terminal on the alternator and the regulator is INSIDE the alternator itself.
Notice that unlike the earlier generator VRs the high amp output of the alternator (B+) does NOT run thru the VR. It goes straight to the battery. When the current flows out of the B+ is it already regulated to provide power to your electrical system.

Another option to look at for this high amp wiring junction is a wiring block used in stereo amp installs. I like this one:
https://www.parts-express.com/4-8-awg-distribution-block--265-800
It's cheap and gets the job done. I'd use locktite on the screws so the wires don't come loose. There are VERY expensive ones, but you just need it to junction some high amp wires together.
The other way would be to cut the ends off those wires and install eyelet ends and run a nut/bolt thru the eyes and clamp them together. Wrap the whole thing in insulating tape or shrink wrap. You could also dip it into a urethane(?) insulating dip.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 4:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Starter Button Wiring Problem...Help!! Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1906069

Here's another that seems more like mine.

Tim
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 5:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Starter Button Wiring Problem...Help!! Reply with quote

Tim Donahoe wrote:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1906069

Here's another that seems more like mine.

Tim


Tim, thanks for the links. I would jump on one of those, but the wire spades are so messed up since a PO tried to glue and solder them together that I think I'm going to cut the ends off, and go w/probably the 20 amp auto reset breaker.

Ashman - am I correct looking at your last post that you think the breaker is overkill?

And another question about the wiring - The thinner red one that's hanging loose from the bundle is supposed to go to the defrost relay, but here's how the relay is wired:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

No red wire in any of the spades. I'm not sure if it works, but the defrost light comes on when I toggle the dash switch. Btw, I'll clean everything off, mount the relay and have the wires nicely bundled up when all's said and done.
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Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 6:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Starter Button Wiring Problem...Help!! Reply with quote

Victor, the main circuit breaker and starter relay are not mandatory, for me they were simply personal preference. Same with the battery cutoff switch you saw in the build. Car is not a daily driver and my preference also there was to isolate the electrical system.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 6:52 pm    Post subject: Re: Starter Button Wiring Problem...Help!! Reply with quote

Hi. The circuit breaker is not overkill. That white rectangular multi-plug is the cats meow! Exactly what you need if you want it to be OEM. The fact that the spades are jacked up is no big deal, as the replacement electrical connectors are probably about $2 for all 3 or 4.
If you buy the circuit breaker, which is probably $3-$10 and the needed eyelets for the spade replacements, it all good. You may have less than $20 in supplies for this repair.
If it was me I would use the circuit breaker to get this circuit up and working. I would wire it up so the battery source is on one terminal and everything else is on the other terminal. Why? I think we all can agree that this cars wiring has been jacked up a bit by someone. Until I was sure there are no more boo-boo's I would protect the circuit in this manner.
For the purists that may loose sleep over this, oh well, aftermarket camper conversions have used similar circuit protection for the camper electronics for decades.
Hope this helps, Bill
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 7:26 pm    Post subject: Re: Starter Button Wiring Problem...Help!! Reply with quote

Tx, I like to clean up and improve what I can and is reasonable for my circumstances. I like your design to isolate your electrical system.

Here's a close-up of the connector mash the PO made.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

There was a thin gray wire attached to the red/white stripe wire I hadn't noticed before. What's that for?

I'm not a purist for these particular items, so, Bill, I went w/Tx's breaker and the eyelets. Here's the wire w/the ilet -
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Heat-shrinked:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

And here's the breaker mocked up. I'll move the 3rd one to the left post and keep the battery isolated as you suggest Bill. I can't explain it, but it sounds like a good idea.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


All this is progress, but I've run into a big pothole in my project that's going to put a hold on getting the car back on the road until I clean this up....rust under the orginial floor insulation.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'm not a perfectionist by any means, but I'm OCD enough that I won't be able to sleep if I ignore that and just put the car back together as-is.
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Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 9:43 pm    Post subject: Re: Starter Button Wiring Problem...Help!! Reply with quote

vamram wrote:
Ashman - am I correct looking at your last post that you think the breaker is overkill?

No. The breaker is a good idea. Collecting the battery and alternator connections on one side of the breaker and the red #30 that runs to the fuse box on the other is the best arrangement.
This breaker will protect the mains that power everything up front.
What that silver breaker does not protect you from is an accidental short if the B+ cable at the alternator touches ground or the cable between the battery and the circuit breaker comes in contact with ground. If you are worried about that, then the large breaker next to the battery like TX-73 has is what you want to install.
A slightly less expensive option might to install a large fuse or fusible link. Again, look to the stereo installers to see what kind of fuse they are using for large power amps or fancy installs. The downside of a fuse is when they blow, you need to replace them. If you don't have a replacement you have no power. Not having a stereo won't prevent you from getting home. But a blown fusible link and no replacement means your car is dead. This is why circuit breakers are better.


vamram wrote:
And another question about the wiring - The thinner red one that's hanging loose from the bundle is supposed to go to the defrost relay, but here's how the relay is wired:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

No red wire in any of the spades. I'm not sure if it works, but the defrost light comes on when I toggle the dash switch.

You should be looking for two black wires at the defroster relay. According to the wiring diagrams there should be a thin red wire from the junction to the in-line fuse holder (8A). A black wire from the fuse holder runs to the #30 on the defroster relay. Another black wire coming from the defroster indicator bulb connects to the #86 terminal of the defroster relay. #85 on the relay is grounded. #87 is the output (white wire?) to the defroster heating elements. Does your defroster relay have all these connections?

If you are still going to use the rear window defroster, connect its red wire to the battery side of the circuit breaker. The defroster relay should have an inline 8A fuse so it does not need to be protected by the silver breaker.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 9:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Starter Button Wiring Problem...Help!! Reply with quote

Ashman, I definitely want a working defrost so I will check the wires connected to the relay. I know that it has one unused spade connector, so perhaps that PO had it wired for some other function. I think I'll be tracing many more wires before this is road-ready... Sad

And I'm putting a temporary halt to wiring fixes now that I discovered that my driver side floor pan is rusting from inside out under the factory sound proofing. I'm going to tackle that for starters this Saturday before any more wiring.

Gotta try to kill that stuff before the real winter sets in, otherwise the car won't be driven until Spring and that's a definite buzz killer for me. I drive my Bugs year-round, come hell or high water!!! Twisted Evil Cool
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Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 10:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Starter Button Wiring Problem...Help!! Reply with quote

vamram wrote:
And I'm putting a temporary halt to wiring fixes now that I discovered that my driver side floor pan is rusting from inside out under the factory sound proofing. I'm going to tackle that for starters this Saturday before any more wiring.

Remove the insulation and determine if the rust has compromised the metal (rusted all the way through). Some of the rust converters (like POR-15; I think Rustolium makes something too) can neutralize the rust and prevent it from spreading and form a protective barrier to prevent new rust from forming.
But if the rust has eaten away most of the metal and there isn't enough there to provide support / support weight, you may need a patch panel or a partial floor pan replacement.
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