Timing with stroboscope

[beetleman217]

I have my 2.0 FI engine timed to 7.5 BTDC using a test light. It runs good, however I think it would be a good idea to properly time it with a stroboscope. Should I time it at idle RPM to 7.5? Or like I was told once at 3000 RPM to 30 degrees?
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If all else fails, stop using all else

1977 Westfalia
1961 Beetle

[Tom Powell]

You need a timing light not a stroboscope.
https://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7527-Inductive-Tim...1248861011

There are cheaper timing lights, but his is a tool you will use repeatedly and the money is well spent. You will also need a dwell meter if you have points.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/331963334829?vectorid...rmvSB=true

The engine will run well by setting the points at .016 with a feeler gauge or matchbook cover, but why not start by setting at .016 and then do it right?

Dwell affects timing. Timing does not affect dwell. It's easier to R&R points and condenser and set the gap while the distributor is on the bench, rather than bending over with half your body in the engine compartment.

Check your Bentley and TheSamba for correct timing for your engine.

Aloha
tp

[Wildthings]

The reason for setting your timing to 28° @ 3500+ rpms with the hoses off and plugged, is that this is the condition your engine see when pulling a hill at full throttle.

The idle timing spec was a best guess at what the timing might be at idle when every part was factory new, it hardly applies when the dizzy may be a hodge podge of parts from different units and even if the parts are original they are old, sticky, and worn.

[sjbartnik]

[beetleman217]

Thanks everyone for the input. I gapped the points to spec when the dizzy was out. I forgot to mention that my dizzy is centrifugal advance only, no vacuum canister.
_________________
If all else fails, stop using all else

1977 Westfalia
1961 Beetle

[SGKent]

mike's post to time it to 28 is what I would do.

[Randy in Maine]

You should be looking for a more appropriate distributor for this application.

Put a "Want to Buy" in the classifieds.

[curtp07]

And be very careful of used distributors....could be complete junk!
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Subaru

[Wildthings]

[curtp07]

[Tom Powell]

Glenn can tell you the distributor you need and will sell you a rebuilt. Possibly take yours as a core.

http://www.glenn-ring.com/bosch/

Aloha
tp

[Randy in Maine]

Try here...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?username=tasb

[beetleman217]

[Tom Powell]

[Randy in Maine]

[beetleman217]

The CHT that I have is the VDO 600F, with the 323 701 temperature sender. The sensor is screwed to the sensor port on the head. The reason I don't trust it is because I have 2 wires running the length of the bus connecting the sensor to the gauge, and I read somewhere that the length must be specific in order to get true readings.

This is the reading I got today after a half an hour drive. For a minute let's assume the reading is correct. What is the normal working head temp range of a Type 4 FI engine?

_________________
If all else fails, stop using all else

1977 Westfalia
1961 Beetle

[vwwestyman]

If it works anything like an exhaust pyrometer like I have, then I don't think it is so much the distance of the wires, but the types of wire used and how it is connected.

So if you need to lengthen the wire, if you extended it with the correct wire it isn't really a big deal. But if you used any ole wire from the FLAPS then yes it is suspect.

You could get an idea, perhaps, of if and how far it is off with an infrared thermometer. Drive the bus to operating temps for a bit, then pull over quick and run back and take a reading. Won't be perfect probably, but it'll give you an idea if and how close your gauge is.
_________________
Dave Cook

President, Wild Westerner Club

1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing

[Wildthings]

Somewhere a thermocouple system must have a cold junction. If you use thermocouple wire all the way to the gauge the cold junction will be in the gauge and may or may not be temperature compensated depending on the design of the guage, while if you use a non thermocouple wire for an extension the cold junction will be where the thermocouple wire hooks to the non thermocouple wire.

Not sure what you mean when you say the sensor is screwed into the sensor port??? Are you talking the location of the TSII sensor? The early TSII sensor location will give a good indication of the actual temperature of the head, whereas the later TSII sensor location will read somewhat lower.

When you put the sensor under the spark plug, what you are really doing is sticking the hot junction down into the spark plug well between the metal of the head and the metal of the spark plug and your reading will be something close to the average temperature of the two pieces of metal. "Note, the ring itself is not the hot junction, only the crimp is. If you install the hot junction somewhere else, then it will not be affected by the heat of the spark plug and thus will read very different from a setup with the hot junction next to the plug.

[udidwht]

Quote, "What is the normal working head temp range of a Type 4 FI engine?"


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1972 Westy Hardtop/Type-4 2056cc
96mm Biral AA P/C's~7.8:1CR
Headflow Masters New AMC 42x36mm heads w/Porsche swivel adjusters
71mm Stroke
73 Web Cam w/Web solids
Dual 40mm IDF Webers - LM-2 - 47.5 idles/125 mains/190 air corr./F11 tubes/28mm Vents - Float height 10.45mm/Drop 32mm
Bosch SVDA w/Pertronix module (7.5 initial 28 total @ 3400rpm)
Bosch W8CC plugs
Pertronix Flamethrower 40K coil
S&S 4-1 w/Walker QP 17862
3 rib 002 Trans
185R14 Hankook tires

[Randy in Maine]