How to lower a Bus and all lowering questions

cage66 · Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 7:11 pm Post subject:

I hear ya. I'm just going to go the easy route on the next bus. At least at first. Shit I may not even lower it first thing. I am going to try to be like one if those guys that actually drive a VW. Haha

oodeftone · Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 10:57 pm Post subject:

Does anyone have a link to Wolfgang Int'l instructions for lowering their IRS rear end kit? Or a tutorial here on The Samba. I installed their kit 15 years ago and immediately lost the instructions. I'm sure I can call them, but it's 11pm.

brese73 · Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 1:29 pm Post subject: front end camber adjustment

little help here please. 67 bus. stock beam. flipped spindles. I have positive camber on my front end. how do I adjust?

Nie zu alt · Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 2:36 pm Post subject:

Brese73,

When you installed the spindles, did you measure the off set of your trailing arms to determine the proper shim stack to set the camber?
_________________
Doug

'66 VW Westfalia
'72 VW Westfalia
'04 Porsche Carrera 4S

brese73 · Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 2:39 pm Post subject: offset

yes I set the offset correctly. The positive camber isn't much, but my outside tire wear is noticeable after 3 months of daily driving.

GTV · Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 6:03 pm Post subject:

Quick question... Do 944 brakes increase the track in the front over the stock drums? And, does it affect track width if the spindles are 944/bus welded hybrid's or stock with the bearing spacer/caliper mount? Thanks...
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EMPI Power Rules!

cdennisg · Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 6:19 pm Post subject: Re: offset

flipflop67 · Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 6:57 pm Post subject:

When narrowing a beam, is there any reason you can't cut the the tube to one side of the centre block? Say 4" out of the top tube on the left and 4 inch out of the bottom tube on the right? I'm curious as I'd like to keep the machined section for the needles and don't fancy cutting off the centre pin block.

nige1171 · Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 8:59 am Post subject:

flipflop67 · Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 4:02 am Post subject:

Now that I'm less tired, it would be easier to cut the centre block out and the top tube as well or loosen them with a big tube and hammer before. I was trying to think of ways of staggering the welds and keeping all the good bits in place.

DubStyle · Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 11:59 am Post subject:

My 2 cents would be based on the fact that you would put more force on one side over the other on your torsions. It's my opinion that it may cause binding in your torsions. You will also be creating pressures on your spring pack that "could" cause them to fail. Just my 2 cents and opinion.
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SBS #1
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"The original & best lowered Split Bus website/club"

durfeec · Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 4:18 pm Post subject:

If you want to keep the needle bearings, just section out of the center using a jig to keep it straight. But when you weld on the areas with the needle bearings be careful because it will make the bearings not fit properly due to heat.
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1960 Bus Panel/Camper

kingodirtp3 · Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 4:06 pm Post subject:

got some info to share. I wanted to raise my front end up about 1/2 inch or so, with a stock width adjustable beam at max ride ride and wagenwest' dropped 3.5in spindles I couldn't get it high enough to avoid the minor rubbing and steering box hits I get when someone else gets in the bus, with just me its good.
so I got stock spindles, installed them, the 1st thing I found out was I needed to get 2 stock tie rod ends, stock beetle or bus to replace the bay ends that are needed for dropped spindles because they reverse taper the steering arm so the tie rod mounts from the bottom. with the stock spindles and adjustable beam once I got the front end close the a nice ride height I only had .5 inches of travel before I was hitting the tierods on the frame.
so the moral of the story is, either get stock spindles with a reverse taper or get the flipped spindles.
also the flipped spindles move the wheels in around 10mm per side, with the stock spindles the tires were almost flush with the body, which wouldn't caused another rubbing issue.
so the flipped spindles are going back on and the new stock spindles with new link pins installed are goin in the classifieds.

kingodirtp3 · Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 4:07 pm Post subject:

oh, another piece of good info is that the 68-71 bay clamp style spindle nuts work on 67-earlier spindles, no more locking tabs for me. at least some good came out of all that work.

cdennisg · Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 5:10 pm Post subject:

kingodirtp3 · Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 6:11 pm Post subject:

does anyone have a bolt on method of getting rid of the steering box? I don't want to raise it, don't want to have to do any cutting or welding, any ideas?

kingodirtp3 · Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 6:42 pm Post subject:

I found out that federal makes 155/65R14 FEDERAL FORMOZA FD2 75H which is an inch narrower than my 185/55 so that will take care of my tire rubbing issue, now just to do something about the box hitting.

joe56vw · Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 10:51 pm Post subject:

kingodirtp3 · Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 10:56 pm Post subject:

thanks, I went through that one, lot of it is old though, I was hoping someone had a parts list and a few pics of how they did it, getting tired of hitting my steering box when someone else gets in the car, thinking of a 1.25 in raise from wagenswest since I have a friend that is a certified welder. just not sure about cutting into the body like that.

joe56vw · Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 11:26 pm Post subject:


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How to lower a Bus and all lowering questions
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