How to lower a Bus and all lowering questions

oodeftone · Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 9:22 pm Post subject:

I have a 59 bus with a Wolfgang IRS kit installed with Thing rear end parts. It is lowered 1" in the rear. I need to lower it one more inch. Do I need to reindex the spring plates or what? Can anyone provide step by step instructions of how to do it or post a link to said instructions. I'm sure it's here somewhere but I can't find it. Thanks.

Split 66' · Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 1:32 am Post subject:

cru62 · Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 7:39 am Post subject:

DerrickfromNC1 · Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 10:11 am Post subject:

oodeftone · Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 11:07 am Post subject:

Wolfgang has instructions. I have them. I like the Bus Boys instructions better though, thanks for those. My question is more specific though. How exactly do you go about reindexing the spring plates? Do you jack up the car, take the tire off, unbolt the axle, unbolt the spring plate cover, mark the plate/torsion so you don't lose your place, pull out the spring plate, index it up into the wheel well a notch or two (to lower ride height), and bolt everything back together... Rookie question, I know.

joe56vw · Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 11:16 am Post subject:

electronictofu · Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 8:17 pm Post subject:

Hey guys,

Exhaust shopping, I've narrowed it down to these two options. Curious if anyone is running either, or had experience with them. My Bus has welded drop spindles, adjustable beam, and offset rear spring plates, and a raised steering box, it's not yet on the ground, but will sit pretty low.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/AA-Sidewinder-Racing-...winder.htm

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Vintage-Speed-SS-Super-Flow-Muffler-155-207-052SF-p/155-207-052sf.htm

joe56vw · Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 8:25 pm Post subject:

electronictofu · Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 10:16 pm Post subject:

cdennisg · Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 9:50 am Post subject:

electronictofu · Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 1:56 pm Post subject:

Zebilmnc · Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 12:36 pm Post subject:

I'm planning on lowering my bus soon. I am going to do dropped spindles in the front. The rear is where I need some help. I have the original transaxle and would like to keep it for now. Is reindexing the spring plates the only way to drop the rear with rgbs? If I drop it about 4 inches with that method how much will it camber out? Does anyone have pictures of a bus done this way? Any help is appreciate.

cru62 · Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 4:17 pm Post subject:

Don't cheap out and do it this way. You will hate the ride, the handling and the looks. Go with a SAK and be done wid it.
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electronictofu · Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 11:59 pm Post subject:

Alright, I need some assistance...

Im getting close to bleeding the brakes on my all new system. New lines and MC, front is stock drums on lowered spindles and adjustable beam. Rear is a type 1 swing, with type 3 drums and lowered spring plates in the rear.

I've heard alot about people having to remove the axle housing bolts from the spring plates to get the wheel on and off. A PIA yes, but the one thing that's presenting an actual issue is the hard brake line needs to come off. When the axle swings down to get the tire off it won't lower unless the brake line is removed (luckily I haven't bled the brakes yet), Either the hard line or the rubber line removed, to give it some play. How to solve this? Longer hose or lines? If so what kind are you pros using?

Also, the center hub/bearing needs to be seating back a little bit more. I think this is a cause of the drum not fully getting seated back. Any tips on this? The threads on my axle took some accidental mild abuse trying to force it closer to being seated. Removing the hub/ axle center nut was a little sketchy, luckily it did not damage any threads.

Another issue. When I was trying to get my E-brake setup, and putting the axle on last month I heard a snap. I assumed it was the E-brake cable coming off inside the drum. I had the wheel on and said, hell... I'll fix it when I bleed the brakes. Tonight I removed the tire and the drum getting things prepped. Oddly, the E-brake cable looks fine (I cut some spring splines so it would fit properly, it was too long). So Im curious what the snap sound was. The axle and tire still spins fine within the transmission. Im hoping it was some fluke thing and I am not screwed here.

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Split 66' · Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 3:08 am Post subject:

electronictofu · Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 6:59 pm Post subject:

I think there are 2 main type of axle caps, atleast in this discussion. Do yours have a beveled lip on them to hold that outter washer on? Mine are open all the way through. I think the drum is what actually holds it all on, instead of the axle cover lip. Im not sure if it's correct though. I remember in a previous discussion a while back this way was ok, but who knows. The axle cover I am holding was a 3rd extra, but almost identical to the ones installed.

Here are photos of the side giving issues. Also a couple photos of the driver side, which the axle nut seated perfectly and the wheel install seemed to go great, was it correct, Im not sure...? I thought so, but it fit and both sides are the same parts. So, maybe smack the driver side in so it fully seats? Im just nervous to slam on it.

Driver Side:

Passenger side nut fully seated:

electronictofu · Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 6:48 pm Post subject:

I know some pro is dying to chime in about these axle covers... above.
Type 1 rear, type 1 68 long axles, type 3 drums and pads. I think the axle covers I have without the lip are type 1 matching the axle, not matching to the drum. Not sure if I should slam on the driver side or not. Because the passenger side fits, and it's the same setup. Not seated enough...?

But I also don't want to move forward if they are incorrect and not safe?
Any experience with this?

Sorry to blow up questions but I have one other Im still hoping someone can chime in. In order to change my tires, or bleed brakes like most here, I think you need to drop the axle off the spring plate to get the tire off. Are you guys running a longer rubber brake line, or longer steel brake line back there? I can't imagine having to re-bleed brakes every time I take a tire off.

I've got a small deadline to get things running so Im stressin' a bit.

wrenchnride247 · Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 7:29 pm Post subject:

kingodirtp3 · Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 10:52 am Post subject:

im running 215/65/14 tires on 14x6 rims with 4 inches backspacing. the scissor jack method works great for me, rolled my rear fenders some too.
for bleeding the brakes I can get a wrench on the bleeder without jacking the car up or removing anything.


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How to lower a Bus and all lowering questions
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