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How to lower a Bus and all lowering questions
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glifahrenheitcameron
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 6:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thank you cage66
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brese73
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 4:33 pm    Post subject: shocks for a lowered bus Reply with quote

dropped my 67 standard. flipped spindles in the front. 68 bug swing axle in the back. I installed brand new standard bus shocks. after installation, my bus is swaying all over the place like a boat on the high seas. the shocks were new, but the weird thing was that they seemed no different than the shocks that were on my bus over the last number of years/decades. they were easy to move in and out as if they were doing nothing. so couple questions:

1. Do I need shorted stocks because I lowered my bus?

2. Do I need to do anything to the shocks before installing them?
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kingodirtp3
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

add swaybar up front and camber compensator to the rear, then get kyb gas adjust or koni shocks. that'll be a big improvement.
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brese73
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 11:21 am    Post subject: sway bar Reply with quote

So I should replace the stock sway bar? My bus sways violently.
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mandraks
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 12:30 pm    Post subject: Re: sway bar Reply with quote

brese73 wrote:
So I should replace the stock sway bar? My bus sways violently.


with good shocks you bus will not sway violently.

when you lowered it and installed the bug tranny, where did you take it to have it aligned?
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Split 66'
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 12:34 pm    Post subject: Re: sway bar Reply with quote

brese73 wrote:
So I should replace the stock sway bar? My bus sways violently.


Did you replace your steering damper yet?

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211415901F

If your sway bar mounts are solid, the rubber is not cracked, you should be fine.

As far as needing a shorter stroke shock, how low are you? Slammed, or lowered?

In the middle of this page, there is good information on choosing the right shocks for your application.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6...;start=440
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brese73
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 1:14 pm    Post subject: swaying Reply with quote

my bus is definitely swaying violently when I hit a bump going 60mph. freaked me out! when I say sway, I mean it goes straight down the road but rocks side to side until I'm able to stable out. First thought was bad shocks.

bus has a mild drop. flipped spindles, new tie-rods, bug tranny straight axle with notched spring plates. new steering dampner and shocks all the way around. still has stock beam and stock sway bar.
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brese73
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 1:19 pm    Post subject: shocks Reply with quote

I tested the new shocks out of the box. They gave no resistance when I compressed them manually. That can't be right.
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Split 66'
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 1:44 pm    Post subject: Re: swaying Reply with quote

brese73 wrote:
my bus is definitely swaying violently when I hit a bump going 60mph. freaked me out! when I say sway, I mean it goes straight down the road but rocks side to side until I'm able to stable out. First thought was bad shocks.

bus has a mild drop. flipped spindles, new tie-rods, bug tranny straight axle with notched spring plates. new steering dampner and shocks all the way around. still has stock beam and stock sway bar.


How much play in the steering wheel? Have you adjusted the steering box ever? Did you have the front aligned?


brese73 wrote:
I tested the new shocks out of the box. They gave no resistance when I compressed them manually. That can't be right.


I have KYB white's up front, stock stroke length, they are a bit bouncy. If I had to do it over again, I would use the KYB white in the rear and get KYB GR-2 gray's for the front, at maybe a slightly shorter stroke.

The gas shocks have serious resistance, they force the piston to the top of the stroke. They are very difficult to compress by hand and they will spring right back up when you let go.
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cage66
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vwnut_98 wrote:
I am building a '61 crew cab. I am running a '68 Type 1 transaxle and Type III brakes and drums. I am using drop spring plates and we measured 19 degrees down. I have 15" wheels and 195/65 r15. Drum to drum (on outer) currently measures 53 1/4". I'm having a hard time getting the wheels attached. Wondering if I bought too big tires or is there something else I'm missing. Any help would be appreciated.


The problem is 61 DCs are really lame I would just sell it to me or trade for a sweet falcon station wagon.

Haha

What problems are you having? Does it seem too wide? Too close to the wheelwells? You may consider changing to early bug drums with a spacer between the snout of the drum and the axle but. Pretty sure the type 3 drums are pretty wide. IF you need to be wider you may need to go with thing drums. If you change the drums you will need to change the backing plates and brakes too.
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electronictofu
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scissor Jack Method:

I see lots of guys running larger tires than I am squeezing in here. I am about to try this scissor jack method (I need to buy one) With the Bus on jack stands, the scissor jack will push the spring plate upwards? Or somehow pushing the spring plate downwards? Any pics or descriptions would be awesome. Not sure how to do it Rolling Eyes

-Offset wide 5 spring plates
-Type 1 rear/ 68' long axles
-Type 3 brakes
-195/65/R15's (EMPI 5 Spoke)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The scissor jack goes between the frame and the axle to push the axle DOWN. Find a suitable location on the axle so you don't bend/dent anything.
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hubCapT
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright enough's enough, time to ask for help. 2" narrowed beam, flipped spindles and Avis style adjusters. Of course wanted to see how low it would go, went to low and rub heavily. Jacked it up to to raise the front end back up loosened adjusters and pried down on the tires, no dice. Re-adjusted link pins to see if that's what was putting the adjusters back in the same position, no dice. Same procedure tonight with the shocks taken off and still the same result. What could be locking the suspension to return to the same position?
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 11:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the center block bound up in the tube? Did Erk make this one for you? Either way, have you asked him about the issue?
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hubCapT
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea I went to Urks school of beamology for it, we smashed the dimples out. He was the one that suggested the link pins and shock, didn't want to bug him again about it.
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motofly196
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2014 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was thinking the same thing as Corey. ...maybe the dimples weren''t pounded all the way out? I used Eric's method of sacrificing an old lug nut. Thread it into the adjuster and pound it back and forth until the adjuster is moving without binding. I did this until my arms couldn't take any more. Still wasn't buttery smooth...so I did it more. Try leaving the tires on, jack it up....and set it down on some 6x6 wood blocks or car ramps and see if the adjusters are moving while you lower the jack and the weight is coming down?
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hubCapT
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2014 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haha were peeking through my windows tonight Scott. That's exactly what I did tonight and it ended up being the top adjuster that was seized up in the beam. Not a lot of room to smash that lug nut up in there but it worked.
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motofly196
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy Cool! If it's that tight, just bump it where you need it to be and tighten it down there. What are you running for front tires?
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hubCapT
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 7:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Running 195/50/15s, been looking at picking up a smaller pair. Don't want to drop down to the 45 series as you know all to well how good our streets are.
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motofly196
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really like the smart car tires I got for my truck....but I don't have that many miles on them yet. Just Seattle streets...only drove to the alignment shop in Spokane. They ride really nice, and have a low tire height, but wide footprint. I did the same as you, 2" narrow beam with adjusters and spindles.
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