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How to lower a Bus and all lowering questions
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hubCapT
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What size did you go with?
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motofly196
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Knew you would ask that... 175/55/15. Les Schwabs...had them in Spokane. Think they were $90 a piece
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electronictofu
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there a trick to the two adjusters (bolts) on an adjustable narrow beam from Wagonswest? I just don't want to strip it out. Also, when adjusting the top adjuster (close to the bus floor) and the lower adjuster, do they need to be in sync as far as how many notches?

Right now, the bottom adjuster is at the top. And the top adjuster is set to the bottom (bolt is facing somewhat downward)

I've been on jack stands since day one. And have 4.5" drop spindles as well. Small front tires, and a steering box lift (1.5")
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glifahrenheitcameron
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 7:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a question about lowering the rear. Is it possible to find a beetle with long axles (68 I presume?), and literally swap the entire rear end (while keeping the bus nose cone)? I was told that this could be done since it is the same width (drum to drum) as it is on a bus. Is this true? Some elaboration would be great Smile
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

glifahrenheitcameron wrote:
I have a question about lowering the rear. Is it possible to find a beetle with long axles (68 I presume?), and literally swap the entire rear end (while keeping the bus nose cone)? I was told that this could be done since it is the same width (drum to drum) as it is on a bus. Is this true? Some elaboration would be great Smile


Yes. That is what offset spring plates are built for.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

electronictofu wrote:
Is there a trick to the two adjusters (bolts) on an adjustable narrow beam from Wagonswest? I just don't want to strip it out. Also, when adjusting the top adjuster (close to the bus floor) and the lower adjuster, do they need to be in sync as far as how many notches?

Right now, the bottom adjuster is at the top. And the top adjuster is set to the bottom (bolt is facing somewhat downward)

I've been on jack stands since day one. And have 4.5" drop spindles as well. Small front tires, and a steering box lift (1.5")


What do you mean by "stripping it out"? The set screws? The position of the adjusters can change a few things. Set them both at the same angle, and the ride is soft, or set them at different positions from each other and the ride can get stiffer, or softer. Example, set the bottom one at the halfway point. Then, the top a little lower (like four teeth) and you will get a stiffer ride. You will have to use a floor jack on the beam and blocks of some kind to put under the front tires to use the weight of the bus to help move the top adjuster in position you want. Its pretty easy to do.
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glifahrenheitcameron
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cdennisg wrote:
Yes. That is what offset spring plates are built for.


Okay cool, because it is confusing when you go on websites and they talk like you need a type 1 or 3 tranny, type 1 long axles, a swing axle tube kit, all kinds of different things for the brakes, and so on. It's a whole lot of different stuff and it makes more sense to me to just swap out an entire rear end....less part finding.

What year beetles would I be able to do this with? I am to assume 68, but what other years would I be able to do it with if any?
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

glifahrenheitcameron wrote:
cdennisg wrote:
Yes. That is what offset spring plates are built for.


Okay cool, because it is confusing when you go on websites and they talk like you need a type 1 or 3 tranny, type 1 long axles, a swing axle tube kit, all kinds of different things for the brakes, and so on. It's a whole lot of different stuff and it makes more sense to me to just swap out an entire rear end....less part finding.

What year beetles would I be able to do this with? I am to assume 68, but what other years would I be able to do it with if any?


68 beetle came with the long axle, long spline, long axle tube end casting combo. Same for swing axle type 3's. These two are what offset springplates were made to accommodate. The only real difference between those two is the brake drums/bolt patterns.
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glifahrenheitcameron
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cdennisg wrote:
68 beetle came with the long axle, long spline, long axle tube end casting combo. Same for swing axle type 3's. These two are what offset springplates were made to accommodate. The only real difference between those two is the brake drums/bolt patterns.


Okay, so if I decide to do this with a beetle, then I need to stick to a 68 correct?

And then with the drums, a 68 beetle has the 4 lug pattern if I am correct. How can I go about switching this to the 5 wide pattern without adapters? (I am not a fan of adapters)
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

glifahrenheitcameron wrote:
cdennisg wrote:
68 beetle came with the long axle, long spline, long axle tube end casting combo. Same for swing axle type 3's. These two are what offset springplates were made to accommodate. The only real difference between those two is the brake drums/bolt patterns.


Okay, so if I decide to do this with a beetle, then I need to stick to a 68 correct?

And then with the drums, a 68 beetle has the 4 lug pattern if I am correct. How can I go about switching this to the 5 wide pattern without adapters? (I am not a fan of adapters)


You can either modify early bus drums, switch to Thing drums, or use early type 3 drums. The latter will give you the best braking ability.

I use beetle drums or type 3 drums (4 lug) with adapters. Parts are much easier to find when traveling, and they are cheaper.
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glifahrenheitcameron
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cdennisg wrote:
You can either modify early bus drums, switch to Thing drums, or use early type 3 drums. The latter will give you the best braking ability.

I use beetle drums or type 3 drums (4 lug) with adapters. Parts are much easier to find when traveling, and they are cheaper.


Would thing drums/early type 3 drums be a direct swap? Would I still be keeping the beetle backing plates/brake components?
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

glifahrenheitcameron wrote:
cdennisg wrote:
You can either modify early bus drums, switch to Thing drums, or use early type 3 drums. The latter will give you the best braking ability.

I use beetle drums or type 3 drums (4 lug) with adapters. Parts are much easier to find when traveling, and they are cheaper.


Would thing drums/early type 3 drums be a direct swap? Would I still be keeping the beetle backing plates/brake components?


Thing drums are a direct bolt on using your beetle brakes. (I think. If I am wrong, somebody please correct me. I do not use thing drums as they appear to be a waste of money to me)

Type 3 drums will require type 3 brakes.
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wrenchnride247 wrote:
electronictofu wrote:
Is there a trick to the two adjusters (bolts) on an adjustable narrow beam from Wagonswest? I just don't want to strip it out. Also, when adjusting the top adjuster (close to the bus floor) and the lower adjuster, do they need to be in sync as far as how many notches?

Right now, the bottom adjuster is at the top. And the top adjuster is set to the bottom (bolt is facing somewhat downward)

I've been on jack stands since day one. And have 4.5" drop spindles as well. Small front tires, and a steering box lift (1.5")


What do you mean by "stripping it out"? The set screws? The position of the adjusters can change a few things. Set them both at the same angle, and the ride is soft, or set them at different positions from each other and the ride can get stiffer, or softer. Example, set the bottom one at the halfway point. Then, the top a little lower (like four teeth) and you will get a stiffer ride. You will have to use a floor jack on the beam and blocks of some kind to put under the front tires to use the weight of the bus to help move the top adjuster in position you want. Its pretty easy to do.


I gottcha. I raised the bus up from the beam to a good height, then put blocks under the tires, then lowered the jack a tad so the tires are resting on the blocks. I got the top adjuster bolt loose and the adjuster is moving freely, but I cannot get the adjuster bolt to push into a different position. Still possible weight from the tires? Maybe raise those higher? Also the bottom adjuster bolt isn't moving at all.
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

4 lug type 3 drums with the matching brakes will give you the best braking. you'll need to move the wheel out around 10mm(if using stock wheels), so either get the 4 lug to 5 lug adapter and 4 lug drums(cheaper), or get wide 5 early drums and wide 5 10mm spacers and longer lug nuts.

you have to be sure to use the right bearing caps too. the best way is to get everything, drum to drum, including all nuts and bolts, from a 68 type 3.
since ur doing it with a 68 bug you'll need to get the type 3 backing plates, drums, 4 to 5 lug adapter, 12mm lug nuts, the 3 bolts to bolt the spring plate to the axle(bus bolts wont work) brake pads and spring kit for the brakes. 2 axle seal kits too. the backing plate will bolt up upside-down also. the shocks with rub some also due to the new angle, but not too bad. if you get plates from wagenwest ask if they'll weld on shock mounts for you, not sure if the do that everytime now.
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electronictofu
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

4.5" Drop welded spindles, narrowed adjustable WW beam. I am trying to adjust things to get it about 2" higher, as the front tires are hitting the floor.

The top adjuster was lower flush 1-2 notches originally, I have the wheels dangling and jacked up the bus from the beam. Hard to budge it more but feel like it needs to go another notch or two. I've pushed the adjuster upword towards the floor about 2 notches so far.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The lower adjuster, I can't even budge the bolt. I've tried it with the bus jacked up from the beam, and the wheels dangling, also with the bus jacked up and the wheels/ torsion arms pushed upwards with another small jack no luck. Currently as it came, is as shown. I assume I move this adjuster down towards the ground? same notches as the top adjuster?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.




Any tips? Not sure how to adjust, where to adjust....
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glifahrenheitcameron
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kingodirtp3 wrote:
4 lug type 3 drums with the matching brakes will give you the best braking. you'll need to move the wheel out around 10mm(if using stock wheels), so either get the 4 lug to 5 lug adapter and 4 lug drums(cheaper), or get wide 5 early drums and wide 5 10mm spacers and longer lug nuts.

you have to be sure to use the right bearing caps too. the best way is to get everything, drum to drum, including all nuts and bolts, from a 68 type 3.
since ur doing it with a 68 bug you'll need to get the type 3 backing plates, drums, 4 to 5 lug adapter, 12mm lug nuts, the 3 bolts to bolt the spring plate to the axle(bus bolts wont work) brake pads and spring kit for the brakes. 2 axle seal kits too. the backing plate will bolt up upside-down also. the shocks with rub some also due to the new angle, but not too bad. if you get plates from wagenwest ask if they'll weld on shock mounts for you, not sure if the do that everytime now.


So with a 68 type 3 rear......what additional parts would I need? Bus nose cone and offset spring plates?
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

glifahrenheitcameron wrote:
kingodirtp3 wrote:
4 lug type 3 drums with the matching brakes will give you the best braking. you'll need to move the wheel out around 10mm(if using stock wheels), so either get the 4 lug to 5 lug adapter and 4 lug drums(cheaper), or get wide 5 early drums and wide 5 10mm spacers and longer lug nuts.

you have to be sure to use the right bearing caps too. the best way is to get everything, drum to drum, including all nuts and bolts, from a 68 type 3.
since ur doing it with a 68 bug you'll need to get the type 3 backing plates, drums, 4 to 5 lug adapter, 12mm lug nuts, the 3 bolts to bolt the spring plate to the axle(bus bolts wont work) brake pads and spring kit for the brakes. 2 axle seal kits too. the backing plate will bolt up upside-down also. the shocks with rub some also due to the new angle, but not too bad. if you get plates from wagenwest ask if they'll weld on shock mounts for you, not sure if the do that everytime now.


So with a 68 type 3 rear......what additional parts would I need? Bus nose cone and offset spring plates?


You would also need to buy or build the e-brake cable adapters. I can't recall if you need to use beetle bearing covers with this setup. This is exactly the setup I installed on my neighbor's 64 DD panel, but I can't remember if I needed to change bearing caps.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I didn't have to do anything with my ebrakes, they bolted right up and work fine. so yep, 68 types 3 drum to drum and offset plates and swap out the nose cone.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

use the bearing caps that come with the axle tubes.
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kingodirtp3 wrote:
I didn't have to do anything with my ebrakes, they bolted right up and work fine. so yep, 68 types 3 drum to drum and offset plates and swap out the nose cone.


You didn't need to use the cable tube extender thingy? I know we used them on my neighbor's bus, as I was just under there yesterday helping to R&R the engine for a bad flywheel.

EDIT: these... http://www.wagenswest.com/partstore/index.php/bus-...lates.html

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