Rear Axle Nut

[elpasorabo]

66 Bug I am restoring and when reassembling I am having a hard time with the rear passenger axle nut. I can't seem to get it on enough to put the cotter pin in it. I can stick a wire through but not the normal cotter. Is this common? I see on other threads people are recommending over 200# of torque on this puppy. Not sure what I am putting on it now but absent taking a sledge to the breaker bar it is on there. Could something be in the way?

[h~moto]

You can't get it tight enough with a breaker bar and socket. They make a special axle nut tool that goes on a breaker bar. You hit the tool with a heavy hammer while putting pressure on with the breaker bar. You need to get that nut TIGHT!

[carcrazed]

Doesn't sound like everything is seated properly. I would make sure the bearing is seated. I had that problem and the bearing wasn't seated all the way. Leaked like crazy and made a heck of a lot of noise. I had to tear it apart again.
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1965 Herbie Replica. 1776cc dual Kads.
1961 Beetle 33,000 Original Miles

"Just When you think you are getting ahead, you're always wrong."

[EverettB]

Yes, it's 217 ft. lbs

[SdAufKla]

Try slipping a 4' long piece of metal pipe over the handle of your breaker bar. This should give you the added leverage you need. This is the method that I use.

I believe a bit over 50# of force on the 4' pipe will give you the 200+ foot pounds you need at the minimum on the axel nut.

You'll also need the parking brake set and / or chocks for the rear wheels to keep them from turning as you crank on that nut.

Seems like "Mission Impossible" the first time you do it, but you need to find a system that works for you (expedient or proprietary tools) because if you're going to do your own maintenance, removing the rear brake drums is required to R&R the rear brakes (among other jobs).

Besides the "hammer nut breaker" tool, there's also the ever popular "Torque Master" tool, which I always swear to myself that I'm gonna buy every time I use my cheater pipe (but then never do since the pipe works quite well...)

Good luck!

[Cusser]

[ZENVWDRIVER]

[Cusser]

Pep Boys and O'Reilly have 1/2 inch torque wrench loaner tools that go to 250 ft lbs.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[ZENVWDRIVER]

[elpasorabo]

Thanks folks for all the great feedback. Sounds like most have experienced the concern of over tightening, but just get over it. I will break out the cheater and get on it. Thanks

[KTPhil]

Note that the 216 ft.lb. spec is the minimum torque. You tighten the nut that far, then if needed to clear the cotter pin hole, tighten it further.

[bill may]

[gingergypsy]

if you rent from autozone you have three months to return it. i think pep boys only gives you a week or two.
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Royal Red 1970 Beetle "Elizabeth Bathory"

Currently residing in yosemite valley with Elizabeth, if you are in the park come say hi!

[Cusser]

[gingergypsy]

[surfbeetle]

You need a torque multiplier. http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C13-16-9602

For years I messed with the long torque wrench, and the "beater tool". You'll never go back to that nonsense once you get the torque multiplier.
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67 Beetle Build Thread
69 Beetle

[BXRJIM]

[Bruce]

[BXRJIM]

[Helfen]

I wouldn't dilly dally or dither about the situation. Go to your tool box and get your torque wrench (you know the same one that you use to tighten the flywheel gland nut)( a essential tool for working on cars) and set it to specification.