2276/86b beetle daily

[KROC]

Hi You may want to check on this but I don't think the Scat Lifters are compatible with an EP12 Cam blank, with scat lifters you should be using the harder SC1 Scat billet.

Cheers Darren,

[UK Luke 72]

65-66cc on my intake ports...

What do you think?

[UK Luke 72]

Hi Darren,
I checked with Web, they heat treat after they've ground their profile so they recommend the Scat lifters with both their EP12 and SC1 cams

Luke

[Brian_e]

[UK Luke 72]

Hi Brian

I would say you are bang on... Looking at the bowls I would say it has just been opened up by the intake flange

Also, the manifold... Been adjusted maybe 1" up.

Some work to do here then!

Here is a Tims stage 2 head I found online for comparison, difficult to really tell what it looks like behind the guide but it sure looks cleaner than mine

Luke

[UK Luke 72]

CCd the ports with a 10ml medicine syringe from when I was on Oramorph... Not ideal but my Granddads burette has the markings rubbed off so I probably ought to invest in a replacement...

[AlteWagen]

[Brian_e]

[Brian_e]

[UK Luke 72]

Thanks Brian, I'll get some measurements.
I'm all for cleaning up and doing the necessary but I really don't want to have to take the guides out. Every guide I've changed before has been stressful but luckily I've still not broken anything... But wouldn't want to do it to anything other than a stock head.
There seems to he a good amount of meat supporting the guide which I guess is no bad thing, just how.much can be gained with what I have?

Yeah I picture would be great

Luke

[Brian_e]

Here is another set of AA 40x35's I had under the bench here at work. I did quite a bit of work to them. They are in no way perfect, but I have gotten pretty good numbers out of them, and the last set I did just like them ran really good on a 2087cc w/FK7 and 40 IDF's.
Some of the numbers I had written on them are 172cfm, .475" @28" w/man. 66cc port volume. These are a 40mm intake valve. I dont want to start a my port Vs. your port pissing match, but here are some pics next to each other to see the differences.

Here is AA 40x35

Your 050 42x37

It really doesn't look like much from this angle, but you can see the difference in area across the top and to the right of the guide. The camera makes it real hard to see the difference to the left between the wall and the guide. My short side radius has been straightened out more, and my flange is way smaller. Again, I am not trying to say mine are top dog shizznit perfect, cause I know they aren't. I do know the numbers are WAY better then the as cast ports they came with, and they sure run good compared to a non ported head. Your heads will work fine, and they will probably run OK, but from where I am sitting, it looks like they need more work to "fix" them and dial them in to make a kick ass set of heads. To bad you weren't over here. I would love to get yours on the bench and poke around with the pitot tube see what they do. Those heads and valve size should be able to do 180+cfm with some work and a good manifold.

These are showing both flange shots.

I will get some pics tonight of the wedgports. They are crazy huge, but they start with the big 044 castings.

Brian

[modok]

It looks like the 60 cut is over 1/8 wide on the mofos.
Put a 75 degree cutter in there, narrow the 60 to .080, wide, huge improvement garanteed. If the 75 is over 80 wide narrow it by enlarging throat diameter freehand about 83-90 degrees.
Don't have a way to do that? I could do it all freehand but...your results may vary

[Brian_e]

[UK Luke 72]

Thanks guys, those pictures kinda say it all...
How much will I be able to fix without removing the guides though? Happy to get the grinder out but that being said the 1835cc engine does need to take priority over this one.

[Alstrup]

At this point I think it would be REALLY interesting to know the I.D of the valve seats. Both in and out. Then it is easiel to determine what is best to do to make them better. IMHO the deep undercut as such is not necessarily a "problem" but it should have been "blended" into the seat much nicer.

T

[UK Luke 72]

I'll take some measurements when I finish work

[Brian_e]

Here are some pics of a CB Wedgeport. I am in NO WAY saying this is what you should do to your heads. Full size wedgeports are giant. Like a 80+cc intake port. They do flow 200+cfm, but they require big displacement and a big cam to make use of the huge intake volume. Big CFM numbers only tell a small amount of the heads potential. I dont think the 050 casting has enough material to go that large.
These are a 44mm seat that has not been cut yet.

Again...Don't do this do your heads!! I just posted these pics as kind of a exaggerated example of what a fully ported intake looks like. Consistent cross section, with material removed in only the correct locations. There are probably more areas in the port that should be left alone than removed.

Without removing the guides you are gonna have a hell of a time getting in there. With about 3 different shaped cutters you might be able to reach most of the spots, but you will have a rather choppy and uneven surface. That short side corner is a bad place to not have a nice smooth radius.

As usual, I agree with Torbin. Measure the ID of the seat and figure how big the throat of the port is right now. Then you can do some calculations and make a plan for the rest of the port. Hopefully the flange isn't too far opened up. A correct mini-wedge shaped port and a really good valve job would probably suit your engine quiet well.

Brian

[jpaull]

Since we are both using the Mofoco 050 Casting to start with, I took a picture of the intake area under the valve, showing the around the valve guide. These are 42mm intake valves, and 70cc intake ports after port work.

Yours can be improved some without taking the guides out, but its so dang tight in there you better have some serious dentist skillz my brotha!

If I was you, I would think carefully about "The Big Picture".

Removing the guides, making some improvements, will this make your engine take a back seat for a year? 2 years? Be realistic, and if it does, screw it and run it as is. Don't deprive yourself of a 2276 for 1-2 years to gain 5-10 horsepower. Life's to short.

_________________
[email protected] MPH 1/4 Mile & 8.1 @ 83.7MPH in 1/8 Mile with Mild Type 1 VW Mag Case 2234cc commuter engine in stock weight bug w/only .491 total lift(CB2292 Cam), 42x37 heads, 48idf's, Street tires, Belt on, Mufflers, Pump gas, video of the run here: https://youtu.be/M3SPqMOKAOg

Transmission by MCMScott:
Rhino case, Klinkenberg 4.12, Superdiff, 002 mainshaft with 091 first idler. Weddle 1.48 Third & 1.14 Fourth.

[UK Luke 72]

Wow Brian, thanks again for the pics.. Yeah I don't want to copy that but it proves a point, Im lucky really that the previous port work only reshaped the flange and did no work deep down.
I've not ignored what you and Glenn said about the valve seat... I'm just saving that bit for later

Jeff, I'm surprised all of the meat around the valve guide has gone and yet only 5cc more than my ports... I certainly won't be able to replicate that standard of work though with tools/skill/experience though so I think the 2 options I have are to either clean up what I have with the guides in place and a sanding drum or see who is about in the UK to help me out.

Sorry about not managing to get measurements last night, we had a turbine trip at work and it all got a bit chaotic...

[UK Luke 72]

Valve seat ID. 36.27mm
End of the guide to port wall. 14.9mm
Guide boss to port wall 17.2mm

Calculated choke point 1063rpm... Based on the calculated CSA around the end of the guide... Which isn't particularly indicative of much seeing as I can't measure the true CSA including the area behind the guide.