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PAINT Processes explained....
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simpleton
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the info guys, I'm definitely going to be able to use it...
Werd up!
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justLOG
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for the info!

This is probably a dumb question, but where it says "you WILL get fish eyes!" what exactly are those?

Thanks
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benchracer1
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

what is the best sequence for a final coat? Bottom of door over the to p and down to the opposite door, top first then doors and hood ? I have no idea
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madster
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bumpy
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The65ghia
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PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 4:55 pm    Post subject: Finishi Reply with quote

Can someone finish where the process was left off? Thanks
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Sportbugger
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amazing thread guys!! I really have learned a lot - IMOA This is what the forums should be all about

Todd
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Glamis Addict
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 6:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Preparing and Painting fiberglass buggy body Reply with quote

Stringer142 wrote:
Well I have a Dune Buggy and have had to fill in some holes and larger cracks with fiberglass cloth and mat some bondo. Ive primered the whole fiberglass body. Probably about 2 to 3 coats, except where I had to go back and fill some blemishes that the primer brought out. My question is when Iam ready to paint the fiberglass with my color paint, do i follow the same steps as for sheet metal? Also, any suggestions for applying metal flake to the paint and painting with it, because im planning on using metal flake. thanks.
I understand Im new here and this is a 3 year old question,but this section looks like its been neglected for a while so here go's.
On a fiberglass body,(I assume Manx style car) I would never even think about using an automotive paint on it. Use gelcoat,its basicly pigmented fiberglass resin.No special sealers or etching primers required. They make more colors than you could imagine,its durable,easier to repair road rash etc. And yes they have metal flake(think Bass Boat) and common pearl or Kamelion powder pearls work in clear gel.
About the only draw back is its alot harder to color sand smooth,but once done will last for a long time.
On a side note,Gelcoat will not buckle or blister from gas,brake fluid,brake cleaner,carb cleaner,acetone,laquer thinner,and even some of the paint strippers you get from HD wont touch the stuff.
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deitymotorsports
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 6:59 pm    Post subject: primer filler Reply with quote

is what your referring to is like slick sand? thats what i use. and works very well.
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aeffertz
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2011 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey! First off, great thread! Will be very useful for me in a month. I do have a question, though.

I will be repainting my whole car, but changing the color. I'll be doing all the work myself. Should I get everyoart of the car down to bare metal or can I respray primer over the existing paint after some sanding?

Thanks!
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TonysGarage
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2011 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you have the time/money to do so---ALWAYS take the entire car down to metal...if you dont---take it down as far as permits
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superalex
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 8:32 am    Post subject: Re: Preparing and Painting fiberglass buggy body Reply with quote

Glamis Addict wrote:
Stringer142 wrote:
Well I have a Dune Buggy and have had to fill in some holes and larger cracks with fiberglass cloth and mat some bondo. Ive primered the whole fiberglass body. Probably about 2 to 3 coats, except where I had to go back and fill some blemishes that the primer brought out. My question is when Iam ready to paint the fiberglass with my color paint, do i follow the same steps as for sheet metal? Also, any suggestions for applying metal flake to the paint and painting with it, because im planning on using metal flake. thanks.
I understand Im new here and this is a 3 year old question,but this section looks like its been neglected for a while so here go's.
On a fiberglass body,(I assume Manx style car) I would never even think about using an automotive paint on it. Use gelcoat,its basicly pigmented fiberglass resin.No special sealers or etching primers required. They make more colors than you could imagine,its durable,easier to repair road rash etc. And yes they have metal flake(think Bass Boat) and common pearl or Kamelion powder pearls work in clear gel.
About the only draw back is its alot harder to color sand smooth,but once done will last for a long time.
On a side note,Gelcoat will not buckle or blister from gas,brake fluid,brake cleaner,carb cleaner,acetone,laquer thinner,and even some of the paint strippers you get from HD wont touch the stuff.



instead of gelcoat what must be used is topcoat. after cured, gelcoat leaves a outer film that doesn't cure totaly

and fiber glass can be painted with automotive paints as well. polyester filler sticks very well to fiberglass resin witch is made from polyester too
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Glamis Addict
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2011 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gelcoat will cure on top,all thats needed is a surfacing agent,it's very easy. I understand you can paint over gel,but why? gel is much tougher.
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Chillkoot
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I've been gone a while. I am going to rewrite this, I was 24 and let's just say my grammatical skills have improved. I will mark my edits and additions, maybe high light them in red i'm not sure yet.

*I've been off playing with traditional rods and customs. I just acquired a Square back and figured I'd give the samba another try.
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jimmynotch
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 10:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chillkoot wrote:
Well I've been gone a while. I am going to rewrite this, I was 24 and let's just say my grammatical skills have improved. I will mark my edits and additions, maybe high light them in red i'm not sure yet.

*I've been off playing with traditional rods and customs. I just acquired a Square back and figured I'd give the samba another try.


Welcome back! I often wonder how many folks got over their fear of painting because of this thread...? It made me realize I could do it. Anyhow, when you update/edit, include info on the newest primers/paints/products as well. From what I understand, a lot has changed (at least here in California) as far a paint technology and availabilty.
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panicman
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your original post did a good job of defining terms and explaining processes. Thank you!
One thing I hear differing opinions on is the use of a sealer between the primer and color coats. I am sure there are great arguments for both. In my case, I have the car down to metal and mostly old primer. I am still doing some straightening, but it is time to start thinking about priming.

I am working in my home garage, in a crowded suburban neighborhood; I cannot do any priming or painting here.

The car is in pieces, so I will have to trailer the car out to my folks place to prime it, then trailer it back to my garage to work out any flaws I may have missed. I will then have to trailer it to wherever I can shoot it with the next step. My color will be single stage anthracite gray, most likely ppg concept. It is much darker than the primer I will use. Do I really need to use a sealer? Even the guy at the paint store kind of went back and forth on using a sealer, and generated a cost for me without including sealer.
I don't want to do a hack job, but is the sealer a step I can skip?

Also, if I prime and still see spots that need a glaze or filler applied, would I need to re prime, or will ss color stick to it like primer?

Sorry for the long post! I am just hoping to avoid having to trailer this thing a half dozen times to paint and prime it.
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Dauz
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2013 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DAMN that original post was extremely PAINFUL to read with all the run-on sentences. But thanks for the effort.
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Bill65bug
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice bit of info here, thank you!
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westylife
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome! You should make a video of this Laughing
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kman
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2014 6:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

panicman wrote:
Your original post did a good job of defining terms and explaining processes. Thank you!
One thing I hear differing opinions on is the use of a sealer between the primer and color coats. I am sure there are great arguments for both. In my case, I have the car down to metal and mostly old primer. I am still doing some straightening, but it is time to start thinking about priming.

I am working in my home garage, in a crowded suburban neighborhood; I cannot do any priming or painting here.

The car is in pieces, so I will have to trailer the car out to my folks place to prime it, then trailer it back to my garage to work out any flaws I may have missed. I will then have to trailer it to wherever I can shoot it with the next step. My color will be single stage anthracite gray, most likely ppg concept. It is much darker than the primer I will use. Do I really need to use a sealer? Even the guy at the paint store kind of went back and forth on using a sealer, and generated a cost for me without including sealer.
I don't want to do a hack job, but is the sealer a step I can skip?

Also, if I prime and still see spots that need a glaze or filler applied, would I need to re prime, or will ss color stick to it like primer?

Sorry for the long post! I am just hoping to avoid having to trailer this thing a half dozen times to paint and prime it.


Sealer is like insurance. You don't need it for the paint to stick but it can help hide problems that would show up a lot more with just the paint. Including but not limited to, adhesion problems, small sections of filler or bare metal, sand scratches, fisheyes, color change between different colors of primer, base coat transparency. It can also prevent lifting between layers of feathered edges.
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Absolutely Aircooled
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 3:21 pm    Post subject: Where to start with varied surfaces and coatings? Reply with quote

Best forum on paint I have read yet. My questions is: I have a 65 Bus I have been hiding in my garage for 12yrs that has spots of bare metal, various primers of unknown type, sanded OG paint, some surface rust on bare metal and around filled areas, fillers of different types etc. It has all windows removed. I have no experience in painting a vehicle beyond rattle canning. I would like to get started on this and don't know where to start. What should I do to get this going and coated with something I can spray a top coat on?
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