Unique tools needed for Vanagon repair?

[barrettw]

Buying my first vanagon and plan to do most repairs and upgrades myself. Anyone have suggestions about any unique (VW specific) tools needed for work on Vanagons.

[TeamSpatula]

Not many VW-specific tools, unless you go really deep into transmissions, & other specialized systems. A *good* set of metric scokets & wrenches will take you far. Also, a good digital multi-meter will prove invaluable with electrical & Fuel Injection.
Dive in!

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[Randy in Maine]

I would add a Bentley manual to the collection.

Dwell/tach and a timing light are also useful.

I also like a nice asortment of screwdrivers and a set of "triple square sockets" for the CV joints. A pair of circlip pliers is also useful.

I use my 2 torque wrenches (3/8 in inch pounds and 1/2 in foot pounds) enough to make them both worth having.

[barrettw]

Thanks to all for the great advice. As a testament to the Bentley Manual, I actually ordered it before I found a vanagon to buy. Has always been critical on my A1 & A2 cars.

[johnboy]

In addittion to a good set of metric sockets and wrenches,and a full compliment of screwdrivers, pliers, hammers, etc, there are a couple of specialty tools that owning a Vanagon increases the probability of needing;
1 A 46mm axle nut socket (very affordable from Bus Boys or Bus Depot)
2 A 6mm allen headed (or 12 spline, look before you buy) socket for the CV's
3 Clutch alignment tool for manual tranny (again, cheap from BB or BD)
4 The large transaxle drain plug socket (for manual trannies only, I suspect)
5 As many manuals as possible. I like to cross reference procedures.
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[barrettw]

Wanted to add to my orginal question so others may benefit.
Just replaced the shocks on my '88 Wolfsburg and came across a unique tool needed for installing Bilsteins.
In order to tighten the top lock nut to the body on the front shocks you will need a 5mm hex to prevent the shaft from turning. Problem arises when you get the nut fully tightened down and then realize your hex wrench is now pressed against the wheel well and can't be removed from the shock shaft.
Take any cheap 5mm hex and saw or grind down most of it until you have about 10mm of hex left. This should allow enough room to remove from the shaft after you have fully tightened the nut down.