Exhaust gaskets

MrBreeze · Posted: Fri Aug 06, 2004 4:05 am Post subject: Exhaust gaskets

I'm replacing my muffler with a new one that bolts directly to the heater boxes and the gaskets I got are too big. The ones I bought were part# 043-251-509 Gasket-Exhaust Manifold to Afterburner Pipe & Heater Boxes. The problem is that while the bolt holes line up perfectly, the center hole is too large. What I'm looking for is a center hole of 1 1/2 or 1 5/8 outside diameter. The bolt holes are 2 5/8 apart center to center. Any ideas?

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DurocShark · Posted: Fri Aug 06, 2004 6:10 am Post subject:

As long as it seals, I doubt it matters much...

But if you want 'em perfect, you'll probably have to make your own. Most flaps sell gasket material, and some even have the aluminum clad exhaust stuff.

Mark carefully, cut with scissors, and voila!

I've made intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and many carb gaskets over the years.
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MrBreeze · Posted: Fri Aug 06, 2004 6:49 am Post subject:

The problem is that it doesn't seal, I'm getting air out of them. Maybe I'll have to make them myself.
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-=Rob

WTB: Bay Shore or Queensboro VW Frames

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ratwell · Posted: Fri Aug 06, 2004 8:27 am Post subject: Re: Exhaust gaskets

Randy in Maine · Posted: Fri Aug 06, 2004 8:46 am Post subject:

So, if you have done your best to condition the mounting flanges, some sanding with a medium grit paper on a flat glas surface, and new gasket and still get a leak.

Would it be better to lightly coat the mounting flanges with "copper plus" RTV (intermittant 700* temps) , or the "liquid copper" stuff, or perhaps the "exhaust putty" and then do the re-clamp to get it to seal correctly?

I am futzing with the 79 CA only hightly funky exhaust/heater box system. Lot of connections to make and I have to tighten them all at the same time. I really don't like to double gasket stuff.

Thoughts?

banana3 · Posted: Fri Aug 06, 2004 2:20 pm Post subject:

I just put an extractor on my '77 that I got from the Bus Depot. It can with paper gaskets, but I talked to the guys there and they sent me a set that was a metal covered type. They worked great. I also used a larger bolt than what came with it and really tightened it up well. So far no leaks. maybe you should give them a call.

I haven't been able to figure out what the small tube that comes off the one side is, though. I didn't see anything that it should hook up to.

Does anyone know what I should do? Seal it off?
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ratwell · Posted: Fri Aug 06, 2004 2:27 pm Post subject:

ratwell · Posted: Fri Aug 06, 2004 2:32 pm Post subject:

casey79westfalia · Posted: Fri Aug 06, 2004 3:05 pm Post subject:

I had the same issue with the heater boxes and the muffler matiing surfaces not being perfectly flat. I used muffler mender putty and applied it with a spackle knife on the flanges and put enough to squeeze out when tightened and make sure it is enough to fill the imperfections in the metal and make the flange flat then I bolted the muffler to the heaterboxes and tightened it and allowed it to sit overnight and dry. When you tighten the muffler to the exchangers you will see the muffler mender squeeze out excess where the surfaces are not mating perfectly, let it dry then scrape the excess that overhangs off the flanges and its a perfect seal. It has worked for me on a couple of my previous busses as well and I have never had leaks further down the road.
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ratwell · Posted: Fri Aug 06, 2004 4:11 pm Post subject:

Exhaust putty works well (double gaskets or not). The type that requires the engine to run to cure it is problematic if your leaks are really bad.
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Karl · Posted: Fri Aug 06, 2004 7:10 pm Post subject:

79 Cal engines do not have EGR valves.

banana3 · Posted: Sun Aug 08, 2004 8:19 pm Post subject:

Thanks ratwell for the info on the ERG valve. The question is: Should I seal it (both at the engine and the extractor) or should I try to hook it up properly? Does it matter in the way that it runs?
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ratwell · Posted: Sun Aug 08, 2004 9:30 pm Post subject:

If you are not used to driving with it and hook it up you'll notice a big lag just off idle as the valve opens and dumps in oxygen depleted exhaust. I personally hate driving with them.
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jeremysmithatshawdotca · Posted: Sun Aug 08, 2004 11:34 pm Post subject:

I've been advised that it is much better to seal it off (very well) because if it ever develops a leak, it can wreck your engine pretty quickly. It's been a while since I was given the advise, but I think if it leaks, you start to run way too lean, does that sound correct?

Jeremy

ratwell · Posted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 8:43 am Post subject:

Yes, it's another vacuum leak potential source. Whether or not the valve is blocked off, there can be no leaks.
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Dan Inghram · Posted: Tue Aug 10, 2004 8:34 am Post subject:

I had the same problem with the holes being too big, I got some gasket material from napa good to 900 deg. and made one for each side of the metal gasket with a smaller center hole worked ok. before I tryed mufler mender paste and the high temp rtv without much luck.

Karzapart55 · Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 2:03 pm Post subject:

Did a search on this topic, found the same problem. The gaskets on the 2.0 from the Bus depot have an opening too big. The bolt pattern is right, but not enough gasket for the surface. I also think they are not thick enough. Anybody Know where I can get Hi Temp gasket material? Thanks

ROCKOROD71 · Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 10:37 am Post subject:

Does anyone have any feedback on the type of muffler OP posted. I am about to purchase one. I've read there is a noticeable difference in quality between the Italian ANSA and the aftermarket ones. I can get an ANSA but they are $300. "NOS aftermarket" are $179. Bus Depot has them for ~ $120.
I was leaning toward the Bus Depot one but I was wondering if anyone who has run one can offer any advise. I have an almost complete stock 2000cc Fuel injected engine. I plan on re-installing the EGR filter with this muffler. all egr components are present on the engine now, except for the filter itself.
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curtis4085 · Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 12:29 am Post subject:

ROCKOROD71 · Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 5:47 am Post subject:

From what info I've collected on the "extractor" or "eliminator" exhausts like the OP posted, I've learned that at one time the "original" ones (not OEM factory) were of good quality, and heavy duty construction. Then of course the EMPIs of the world come along and make garbage versions of a good design. I've seen some at swaps and used ones with real thin flanges, light weight, etc. I know where I can get an original Italian made ANSA, and also some places I can get a no name aftermarket with no markings for $200 less. Bus Depot claims theirs is "best quality of aftermarket available" or whatever that means. If anyone has info on the quality and manufacturer of the BD one I would love to hear it. I've done a search and mostly what I found is that the fit is ok, the sound is different, the paint burned off...etc. Just wondering how they hold up and if it's worth it to spend the extra 200 beans.
_________________
1971 STD BEETLE- DD-1st car, 1st love. keepin' it stock! 1600DP, Solex 34-3 Mexi Bosch SVDA Dist NOW w/POINTS
1977 WESTY "KrustyKamper" 2L FI


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