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Should I use sealant when re-installing windows?
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bboyle
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2004 11:31 pm    Post subject: Should I use sealant when re-installing windows? Reply with quote

Hi,

I've removed all the windows on my 71 bus for painting, also to deal with rust on the seals. Sills have been repainted with POR-15 + topcoat.

When I re-install them, do you recommend I use any kind of sealant between the seal and the sill? The original seals (factory, from the looks of it) had some kind of brown tenacious glue which was hell to get off.

Thanks!
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TimGud
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 19, 2004 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have heard some people say to use silicone but I sure hate removing that stuff. I have always avoided using a sealer and just made sure the old rust is all gone and a good top coat is on the area before reinstalling the glass and seals. But I live in a very dry climate so this may not work in the rust belt.
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damicotile
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2004 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MAKE SURE THE DRAIN HOLES ON THE FRONT AND BACK WINDOWS ARE CLEARED OUT BEFORE THE INSTALL. THE NEW SEALS WORK REAL GOOD WITHOUT SEALER.
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Miguel Arroyo
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 20, 2004 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

damicotile wrote:
MAKE SURE THE DRAIN HOLES ON THE FRONT AND BACK WINDOWS ARE CLEARED OUT BEFORE THE INSTALL. THE NEW SEALS WORK REAL GOOD WITHOUT SEALER.


Ditto.
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bboyle
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 21, 2004 8:56 am    Post subject: Drain holes??? Reply with quote

Drain holes??? Where are the drain holes supposed to be?

The front window sill was so rusted out it's possible I might have missed seeing a drain hole there. But the rear window was pretty clean, only a bit of surface rust; I'm certain there was no drain hole there, only metal.

Is it possible that transporter sills never had drain holes? Or should I get new glasses?

Additional question, while I we're at it. Front sill was thoroughly sand-blasted, then rebuilt with several layers of POR-15 plus embedded fiberglass, then remaining gaps and holes filled with POR epoxy putty, then more POR-15. I have restored the original contours very closely and the sill is now rock hard and totally sealed. However, it is not totally smooth. There are scattered pitted areas here and there that I just POR'd thoroughly after sand-blasting.

Should I attempt to fill and smooth these slight irregularities with more putty (extremely hard to work with and grind) or body filler (easy to work with but I worry about porosity). Or should I just top coat and install the window?

Thanks for your advice.
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3Bugs
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 21, 2004 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The drain holes are in the corners and you have to keep them clear or even your POR15 will fail eventually. If they are like the beetles there is a slight slope to them form about ¼” on either end. Very very slight but enough for water to drain off. As for the rough areas. I suggest you smooth them out so not to have a place for moisture to get caught.

Just a note on your countering. Make sure your glass still fits in without interference or you will have a cracked glass.
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bboyle
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2004 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

3Bugs:

Thanks for the advice. Looks like I might have screwed up.

I case I decide to relocate them and clean out the POR-15, could you clarify something for me? Are these drain holes near the corner on the horizontal part of the sill, or somwhere on the flange part that sticks up. I assume on the horizontal part, but just want to be sure.

Sorry to sound so dense, but I can't see a trace of anything on the rebuilt windshield.

Thanks!
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3Bugs
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2004 12:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have not worked on the busses as much as bugs and Ghia's so I suggest you see if someone else here can give you that direction. In the event you cannot get that answer I suggest you spray water all around the opening and watch were it ponds when it runs to the bottom at the corners. At that point you should drill about a 1/8" hole in the center of the channel and then either pound a very slight (almost undetectable) slope in with a blunt tool or form it with your filler. Just make sure your not drilling to where your going to drain inside the cabin or into an area that will not drain to the road.

I also have to mention that I am not that keen on using filler in the channel. Weld build up and grind or weld in replacement sections would be stronger and not as subject to environmental exposures and movement that can cause failure leading to windows popping out. If you look at the rubber that seals the window in place there is not much that holds it in. There is somewhat of an illusion observed by the sealing portion of the rubber on the outer side of the window but it serves no use in holding it in. If your grooves are off by even a small amount you will get leakage. In addition, the window opening is not supported by anything across a very wide area. In other words, there is constant flexing going on and of all the places to have a week point glass is not the place to have it.
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67SingleCabGuy
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2004 11:00 am    Post subject: No drain holes in front and rear windows on 71 Bus Reply with quote

Howdy,

Don't have any idea what these guys are talking about.
If you were to drill drain holes in your windshield channel you would get water running onto your front floor boards.
If you were to drill drain holes in the rear window you would get water running into the inside of your rear hatch.
That is if your seals leaked which they shouldnt if you get quality seals (OE Veedub) and install them correctly.
There are no drain holes in the channels of the front and rear windows of a 71 bus.

Good Luck,
Kevin
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71surfbus
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2004 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might try going to the Bay Window forum and asking there, I re-did all the windows on my 71, never saw any holes leadind to the front cab.
Good Luck
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TimGud
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2004 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No drain holes on the 69 bus I just restored. Try Wolfsburg West for good window seals.
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