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72supbeet Samba Member
Joined: November 12, 2004 Posts: 29 Location: Camano Island Washington
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Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2005 1:17 pm Post subject: What Primer Should I use? |
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I am sanding down my bug and i have parts that have primer and parts that have bare metal, what primer should i use? or should I sand the whole thing down to bare metal? |
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marklaken Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2004 Posts: 2416 Location: fort collins, CO
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Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2005 3:03 pm Post subject: |
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how much body work experience do you have and what tools are at your dispossal? _________________ Wish List:
1967 Wesfalia SO-42 Parts Needed: Kitchenette, Cot Poles
'65 rear left beetle fender
15" Bus Wheels in fair condition
Mark Laken
Fort Collins, CO |
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bugninva Samba Member
Joined: December 14, 2004 Posts: 8858 Location: sound it out.
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Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2005 10:20 pm Post subject: Re: What Primer Should I use? |
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72supbeet wrote: |
I am sanding down my bug and i have parts that have primer and parts that have bare metal, what primer should i use? or should I sand the whole thing down to bare metal? |
you can never go wrong with a 2part epoxy primer...it seals the surface, unlike normal build primer....epoxy primer is self etching for bare metal, and when thinned(check spec sheet) is used as a "sealer" coat....a bit more work to sand, but epoxy should be used to seal, then use high build to fill scratches/etc.. |
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72supbeet Samba Member
Joined: November 12, 2004 Posts: 29 Location: Camano Island Washington
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Posted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 1:03 pm Post subject: |
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This is my first tme doing body work. I use a dual action sander |
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marklaken Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2004 Posts: 2416 Location: fort collins, CO
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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 9:56 am Post subject: |
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so you have access to a decent sized compressor and can spray a 2 part epoxy primer (will also need a hobbbyist respirator when spraying...product has isocynates)...that would be the most trouble free approach (but i think a little more expensive and hazerdous to your health if you don't take the proper percautions)...
i am no expert here, but i think you could also use a metal etcher and primer of your choice on bare metal and then spray a sealer coat over everything....factory paint/primer is a decent base but needs to be scuffed up pretty good for adhesion of sealer coat
Then when you are ready to paint, pick out a paintline, and stick to that manufacturer's recommended products for a highbuild primer, sealer and paint (see chillkoot's sticky) _________________ Wish List:
1967 Wesfalia SO-42 Parts Needed: Kitchenette, Cot Poles
'65 rear left beetle fender
15" Bus Wheels in fair condition
Mark Laken
Fort Collins, CO |
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72supbeet Samba Member
Joined: November 12, 2004 Posts: 29 Location: Camano Island Washington
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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 7:39 pm Post subject: |
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I do have a respirator that i got from napa. so i use a 2 part epoxy primer then? |
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carmangary Samba Member
Joined: September 29, 2004 Posts: 399 Location: Clemmons, NC
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Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 7:46 pm Post subject: |
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Epoxy primer doesn't contain isos so you are safe with a normal charcoal/canister mask. However, I don't think epoxy etches like someone on here mentioned. |
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marklaken Samba Member
Joined: March 19, 2004 Posts: 2416 Location: fort collins, CO
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Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2005 7:47 am Post subject: |
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carmangary wrote: |
Epoxy primer doesn't contain isos so you are safe with a normal charcoal/canister mask. However, I don't think epoxy etches like someone on here mentioned. |
good to know on the respirator, thanks...
72superbeet, checkout this little thread for a little more info on PPG products...i take it that epoxy primers can be applied directly to unetched body work...
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=92112&highlight=k38
of course the best info would probably come from your local paint store... _________________ Wish List:
1967 Wesfalia SO-42 Parts Needed: Kitchenette, Cot Poles
'65 rear left beetle fender
15" Bus Wheels in fair condition
Mark Laken
Fort Collins, CO |
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JoelH Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2003 Posts: 1312 Location: North Dakota
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buguy Samba Member
Joined: November 17, 2003 Posts: 4915 Location: Port Orange, FL
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2005 12:58 am Post subject: |
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Epoxy doesnt etch. PPG has a great epoxy/sealer. |
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JoelH Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2003 Posts: 1312 Location: North Dakota
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bugninva Samba Member
Joined: December 14, 2004 Posts: 8858 Location: sound it out.
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2005 10:49 pm Post subject: |
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carmangary wrote: |
Epoxy primer doesn't contain isos so you are safe with a normal charcoal/canister mask. However, I don't think epoxy etches like someone on here mentioned. |
poor choice of wording on my part, sorry....should have been more specific and said it can be used instead of self etching...epoxy primer adheres to bare metal without the need of an etcher if the metal is properly sanded...(if you have stripped to metal with sand paper you are good).....more to the point i was getting at is that epoxy primer is a great all round material and can be used in the place of two other products...limits what needs to be bought and stored, mixed, shot, etc.... |
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4ghias Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2004 Posts: 331 Location: Calif. Sacramento Area
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Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 12:07 am Post subject: |
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Weld-Through Primer-This is applied to the mating flanges of MIG- or resistance spot-welded joints. The newer forms even contain a quality self-etch or epoxy feature that does not limit its application to only the bare metal.
Metal Conditioners-These provide the better of the preparation processes, yet they are rarely used because it's a wet process. Never use these products in an enclosed area, behind moldings or on flange joints.
Epoxy Primer-This is the most common material that provides quality protection to the base metal, a good bonding surface for the next coating and may have many other applications.
Self-Etch Primer-This is now becoming very popular for its protective quality. It has some limitations but is worth having and using for quality replacement of the factory material. (Warning: This material contains acids, phosphates or chromates in order to be self-etching. Apply it in properly vented areas, preferably a paint booth, and wear respiratory protection.)
Zinc-Rich, or Galvanizing Primer-This has the properties to replace factory galvanizing and should be used when the original panel was so coated. (Warning: This product must also be applied in the paint booth. Be sure to use proper respiratory protection.)
Vinyl Wash Primer-This is best applied when completing repairs to aluminum. The vinyl resin provides superior adhesion to the surface.
Paint removal requirements are going to be around for many years and, undoubtedly, many changes will take place in the methods and the materials used. It is to the advantage of the technician to remain aware of these changes by reading trade magazines and product flyers and by attending jobber clinics, workshops or I-CAR classes. And remember: Only remove the minimum amount of coating to properly conduct your repair.
Copied from the Internet.......
4Ghias |
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