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What Primer Should I use?
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72supbeet
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2005 1:17 pm    Post subject: What Primer Should I use? Reply with quote

I am sanding down my bug and i have parts that have primer and parts that have bare metal, what primer should i use? or should I sand the whole thing down to bare metal?
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marklaken
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2005 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

how much body work experience do you have and what tools are at your dispossal?
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bugninva
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2005 10:20 pm    Post subject: Re: What Primer Should I use? Reply with quote

72supbeet wrote:
I am sanding down my bug and i have parts that have primer and parts that have bare metal, what primer should i use? or should I sand the whole thing down to bare metal?



you can never go wrong with a 2part epoxy primer...it seals the surface, unlike normal build primer....epoxy primer is self etching for bare metal, and when thinned(check spec sheet) is used as a "sealer" coat....a bit more work to sand, but epoxy should be used to seal, then use high build to fill scratches/etc..
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72supbeet
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 07, 2005 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is my first tme doing body work. I use a dual action sander
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marklaken
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

so you have access to a decent sized compressor and can spray a 2 part epoxy primer (will also need a hobbbyist respirator when spraying...product has isocynates)...that would be the most trouble free approach (but i think a little more expensive and hazerdous to your health if you don't take the proper percautions)...

i am no expert here, but i think you could also use a metal etcher and primer of your choice on bare metal and then spray a sealer coat over everything....factory paint/primer is a decent base but needs to be scuffed up pretty good for adhesion of sealer coat

Then when you are ready to paint, pick out a paintline, and stick to that manufacturer's recommended products for a highbuild primer, sealer and paint (see chillkoot's sticky)
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72supbeet
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do have a respirator that i got from napa. so i use a 2 part epoxy primer then?
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carmangary
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Epoxy primer doesn't contain isos so you are safe with a normal charcoal/canister mask. However, I don't think epoxy etches like someone on here mentioned.
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marklaken
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2005 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

carmangary wrote:
Epoxy primer doesn't contain isos so you are safe with a normal charcoal/canister mask. However, I don't think epoxy etches like someone on here mentioned.


good to know on the respirator, thanks...


72superbeet, checkout this little thread for a little more info on PPG products...i take it that epoxy primers can be applied directly to unetched body work...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=92112&highlight=k38

of course the best info would probably come from your local paint store...
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JoelH
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2005 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would go with the most expensive Epoxy primer that you can afford. Being the closest part to the metal, you need good adhesion to the surface. On the body, I'd I would spray a metal wash on before the primer also. It just helps with adhesion.
my .02
later,
Joel
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buguy
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2005 12:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Epoxy doesnt etch. PPG has a great epoxy/sealer.
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JoelH
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2005 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that's what the metal wash does is it etches the metal

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bugninva
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2005 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

carmangary wrote:
Epoxy primer doesn't contain isos so you are safe with a normal charcoal/canister mask. However, I don't think epoxy etches like someone on here mentioned.



poor choice of wording on my part, sorry....should have been more specific and said it can be used instead of self etching...epoxy primer adheres to bare metal without the need of an etcher if the metal is properly sanded...(if you have stripped to metal with sand paper you are good).....more to the point i was getting at is that epoxy primer is a great all round material and can be used in the place of two other products...limits what needs to be bought and stored, mixed, shot, etc....
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4ghias
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 12:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Weld-Through Primer-This is applied to the mating flanges of MIG- or resistance spot-welded joints. The newer forms even contain a quality self-etch or epoxy feature that does not limit its application to only the bare metal.
Metal Conditioners-These provide the better of the preparation processes, yet they are rarely used because it's a wet process. Never use these products in an enclosed area, behind moldings or on flange joints.
Epoxy Primer-This is the most common material that provides quality protection to the base metal, a good bonding surface for the next coating and may have many other applications.
Self-Etch Primer-This is now becoming very popular for its protective quality. It has some limitations but is worth having and using for quality replacement of the factory material. (Warning: This material contains acids, phosphates or chromates in order to be self-etching. Apply it in properly vented areas, preferably a paint booth, and wear respiratory protection.)
Zinc-Rich, or Galvanizing Primer-This has the properties to replace factory galvanizing and should be used when the original panel was so coated. (Warning: This product must also be applied in the paint booth. Be sure to use proper respiratory protection.)
Vinyl Wash Primer-This is best applied when completing repairs to aluminum. The vinyl resin provides superior adhesion to the surface.
Paint removal requirements are going to be around for many years and, undoubtedly, many changes will take place in the methods and the materials used. It is to the advantage of the technician to remain aware of these changes by reading trade magazines and product flyers and by attending jobber clinics, workshops or I-CAR classes. And remember: Only remove the minimum amount of coating to properly conduct your repair.

Copied from the Internet....... Rolling Eyes
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