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vweater1
Samba Member
Joined: January 08, 2004
Posts: 349
Location: LakeView Terrace, California
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 Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 10:25 am Post subject: Steps on how to change a Distributor |
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| I've done a search and didn't come up with anything. I would like some steps on how to remove and install a distributor. This will be my first time and would like to know the degree of difficulty and if I should do myself or take to someone. I would rather do myself as I would like this to be my learning experience to not have any problems changing one in the future. If someone could tell me how to crank the motor over manually and the certain steps on how to do it right would be of great help. |
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Glenn 
Mr. 010
Joined: December 25, 2001
Posts: 76945
Location: Sneaking up behind you
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| Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 10:46 am Post subject: |
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It's basically one bolt.
I don't think Type 3s are any different from Type 1 so there's one bolt that holds the distributor clamp.
It makes it easier if you crank the engine so it's at Top Dead Center on #1.
Here's what you do:
1) Remove the distributor cap. There's a small notch on the top edge of the distributor body that marks #1. You want to turn the engine (wither use a wrench or by clicking the key) so the rotor points to that notch.
2) Remove the wire running from the points to the coil
3) Remove any vacuum hoses and note where they went
4) Loosen the clamp (13mm nut) holding the distributor clamp to the case and just pull it out.
To reinstall:
1) Point the rotor to the notch
2) Insert the distributor and put the clamp back on the stud
3) The distributor only goes in 1 way, so see if the rotor turns by hand. It should not... if it does, then it's either not in the correct location or not in all the way.
4) Tighten the 13mm nut
5) Reattach the the vacuum hoses and points wire
6) reinstall the cap
Your done.
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"
Member #1009
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vweater1
Samba Member
Joined: January 08, 2004
Posts: 349
Location: LakeView Terrace, California
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| Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 11:16 am Post subject: |
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thanks Glen, your steps seem very very easy and you explained it right to the point. Once again I get all my question(s )answered with the most information possible. The Samba Rules.  |
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vweater1
Samba Member
Joined: January 08, 2004
Posts: 349
Location: LakeView Terrace, California
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| Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 11:20 am Post subject: |
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Almost forgot Glen, Since your the right person to talk to about dizzy's. What should my 019 distributor be timed and the points gapped at for a 71 sqbk with a 1641 cc engine, dual 32 solex carbs, black bosch coil, and so on. Let me know as I'm going to do this today. Thanks for your help once again.  |
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Glenn
Mr. 010
Joined: December 25, 2001
Posts: 76945
Location: Sneaking up behind you
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| Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 11:43 am Post subject: |
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Generally 28-32 degrees depending on compression, fuel and shape of combustion chamber.
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"
Member #1009
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Medeco
Samba Member
Joined: September 20, 2004
Posts: 28
Location: Atlanta
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| Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 2:06 pm Post subject: |
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I have a 1970 square and the books i have say it is a centrifugal and vacuum advance type distributor.
Does anyone know a vendor who has this type or can another be used?
Also, my square is Fuel injected.
Thanks
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1970 Square |
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Squarely67
Samba Member
Joined: April 20, 2004
Posts: 130
Location: Terrell, TX
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| Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 2:39 pm Post subject: |
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| Glenn wrote: |
It's basically one bolt.
I don't think Type 3s are any different from Type 1 so there's one bolt that holds the distributor clamp.
It makes it easier if you crank the engine so it's at Top Dead Center on #1.
Here's what you do:
1) Remove the distributor cap. There's a small notch on the top edge of the distributor body that marks #1. You want to turn the engine (wither use a wrench or by clicking the key) so the rotor points to that notch.
2) Remove the wire running from the points to the coil
3) Remove any vacuum hoses and note where they went
4) Loosen the clamp (13mm nut) holding the distributor clamp to the case and just pull it out. Otherwise, leave the clamp in place and install the new distributor and use the old clamp.
To reinstall:
1) Point the rotor to the notch
2) Insert the distributor and put the clamp back on the stud
3) The distributor only goes in 1 way, so see if the rotor turns by hand. It should not... if it does, then it's either not in the correct location or not in all the way.
4) Tighten the 13mm nut
5) Reattach the the vacuum hoses and points wire
6) reinstall the cap
Your done. |
Do everything that Glenn says. You may find, however, that after you remove the bolt that holds the clamp in place, you can't get the distributor out because the timing advance adjustment bolt hits the thermostat flap rod. This is the problem I encountered, so instead of removing the clamp with the distributor, loosen the timing advance adjustment clamp nut and pull the distributor out. Then if you need to replace the clamp, it should now clear the flap rod. Otherwise, leave in the old clamp and slide in the new distributor. |
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Medeco
Samba Member
Joined: September 20, 2004
Posts: 28
Location: Atlanta
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| Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 9:27 am Post subject: |
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| Medeco wrote: |
I have a 1970 square and the books i have say it is a centrifugal and vacuum advance type distributor.
Does anyone know a vendor who has this type or can another be used?
Also, my square is Fuel injected.
Thanks |
Anybody? Is the Mechanical 009 Dist. ok or is it the vacuum/mechanical combo?
thanks.
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1970 Square |
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GjMan
Samba Member
Joined: June 05, 2004
Posts: 822
Location: Grand Junction, CO
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| Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 9:55 am Post subject: |
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If your engine if FI, you MUST use the stock distributor. Which is great, because the stock FI unit provides both vacuum and centrifugal advance and is superior to the 009 in every way. Just be sure your vacuum advance unit it working properly. In fact, when I run carbs with no provision for vacuum advance, I still use the FI distributor. Even w/o the vacuum advance, it still beats an 009.
FYI the earlier FI distributors, those with part numbers ending in L, M, and AB, provide more centrifugal advance than the later units. |
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Medeco
Samba Member
Joined: September 20, 2004
Posts: 28
Location: Atlanta
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| Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 11:44 am Post subject: |
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| GjMan wrote: |
If your engine if FI, you MUST use the stock distributor. Which is great, because the stock FI unit provides both vacuum and centrifugal advance and is superior to the 009 in every way. Just be sure your vacuum advance unit it working properly. In fact, when I run carbs with no provision for vacuum advance, I still use the FI distributor. Even w/o the vacuum advance, it still beats an 009.
FYI the earlier FI distributors, those with part numbers ending in L, M, and AB, provide more centrifugal advance than the later units. |
So, what steps should I take to make sure my vaccum advance is working properly? Or is it listed in the Bentley manual and i just skipped over it?
thanks for the info.
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1970 Square |
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Russ Wolfe
Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2004
Posts: 25187
Location: Central Iowa
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| Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 11:52 am Post subject: |
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| Medeco wrote: |
So, what steps should I take to make sure my vaccum advance is working properly? Or is it listed in the Bentley manual and i just skipped over it?
thanks for the info. |
You can just suck on the hose and watch the timing move. (I use a new piece of hose.) While you are suckng on it, put your tongue over the end of the hose and see if the timing stays where it is or drops back.
Or, you can go buy one of those fancy little hand vacuum pumps.
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Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey
Gary: OK. Ima poop. |
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seans67
Samba Member
Joined: October 06, 2004
Posts: 453
Location: End of the Road, Alaska
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| Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2005 12:21 pm Post subject: |
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| Squarely67 wrote: |
Do everything that Glenn says. You may find, however, that after you remove the bolt that holds the clamp in place, you can't get the distributor out because the timing advance adjustment bolt hits the thermostat flap rod. This is the problem I encountered, so instead of removing the clamp with the distributor, loosen the timing advance adjustment clamp nut and pull the distributor out. Then if you need to replace the clamp, it should now clear the flap rod. Otherwise, leave in the old clamp and slide in the new distributor. |
Thank you for this clarification. Searching actually gets results!
I when dismantling my engine I thought that somebody had done something with the clamp to make it the cooling flaps rod but I guess it was just poor design. With all my other VW engines the clamp came with the dist.
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Sean
'71 Squareback '71 Porsche 914 ‘80 Camper '87 Syncro Weekender 1.8T '87 Wolfsburg Weekender '97 Toyota Land Cruiser ‘03 Audi A6 Quattro 3.0 ‘04 Audi A4 Avant Quattro 1.8T ‘05 Audi A4 Quattro 3.0
‘06 Porsche Cayenne Turbo S |
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Mr. Bubblehead
El Chupa Nibre
Joined: October 25, 2002
Posts: 2756
Location: 612 Wharf Avenue
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| Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2005 12:40 pm Post subject: |
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| Medeco wrote: |
Anybody? Is the Mechanical 009 Dist. ok or is it the vacuum/mechanical combo?
thanks. |
You will need a type 3 distributor, as the fuel injection system requires the trigger contacts to operate the injectors. A distributor from a fuel injected Porsche 914 (1700 and 2000cc engines ONLY) will also work, although the cap is taller. It probably has a different advance curve, too. That's what I'm running in my Square.
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