CB engine kits...updated...Brothers kit also...need advice

[MConstable]

Ok, hopefully it's actually time to put together an engine for my Thing...
A kit isn't my first choice, but for simplicity and cost, it's the direction I'm leaning.
These are the two I'm trying to decide between...I know they're different animals, so I would like opinions on either or.
Car is a daily driver, stock trans and oversize rear tires.
I need excellent cooling (I'm running full tins/doghouse shroud)
Looking for a nice mild torquey engine.
I'll be replacing the exhaust and carbs so they aren't an influence in choosing which kit.
I'd love some advice





http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/1179.htm

http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/1182.htm

[GTV]

A VW shop owner friend of mine decided to give one of their 2276 kits a try a couple years ago for a customer car. He had nothing but issues with it, I know he would not recommend it. It's better to piece your own engine together with the best parts you can buy.
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EMPI Power Rules!

[SamT]

You'd be nuts not to buy the 140 hp kit that's only $400 more. You should probably compare some of the other kits too. Compare $/HP and you get more value with the big power motors in those kits. You won't give up anything besides money going bigger with any of those kits.

You need horsepower to have torque. A "stump puller" is just a term invented by people with low HP. A motor with big HP will out pull that "stump puller" and then you hit your power band and can have fun with the horsepower.
_________________
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=546712

[mark tucker]

[Singerdude]

I couldn't agree more with SamT and tucker... Go big. most cams are very tame and easy to manage under 3000-4000 rpms where 90% of the driving is done. But by having a larger displacement, you still have way more torque down low over stock while keeping the same driveability. Do you have to plan way ahead and perfectly time your move while trying to over-take a car? Is your car usually slowing down a lot on long uphills? Well, with a bigger displacement engine, those things will be a thing of the past. Personnaly, I won't ever go back to anything under 2 liters.

[MConstable]

Thanks guys.
I am trying to stay to a 1 1/2" exhaust, because I can go with CB 1 1/2" heater boxes but if I have to I can go 1 5/8" and do A1 heater boxes

[vwracerdave]

I's get the 2007cc kit. Call CB and discuss it with them. They can make a cam substitution to get an engine you will enjoy. 40 IDF's w/32mm venturies and 1 1/2" exhaust would make an awesome daily driver, if you choose he right cam.
_________________
2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK

[MConstable]

Thanks guys...goal is just a nice reliable torquey little stroker built as cost effectively as possible.

[GTV]

[mark tucker]

[GTV]

[MConstable]

Brothers Machine put together a kit parts list for me for a 2110 with forged pistons and some nice parts for the same price

[MConstable]

Here's the Brothers Machine breakdown:

Engine Case (New AS41)
$ 795.00
Bore Engine Case 90.5/92
$ 80.00
Stroker clearance case
$ 85.00
Full Flow (Drill / Tap Engine Case)
$ 45.00
Sleeve Lifter Bores (Silicone Bronze)
$ 150.00
Forged Mahle Pistons and Cylinders
$ 345.00
Forged I-Beam Rods with ARP
$ 135.00
Cb crank forged 4340
$ 285.00
Main Bearings (Mahle)
$ 35.00
Rod Bearings (Mahle)
$ 14.00
Double Thrust Cam Bearings (Mahle)
$ 24.00
Gasket Kit (German)
$ 24.00
Straight cut gears
$ 95.00
FK 44 engle cam
$ 90.00
Lifters Scat
$ 45.00
Manto chromoly push rods
$ 65.00
Push rod tubes stailess steel
$ 44.00
Scat ratio rockers 1.4
$ 225.00
Forged Lightened flyweel
$ 125.00
Head Studs (Chromoly)
$ 55.00
Cylinder Deflectors
$ 6.00
Mini d port heads 40x35.5
$ 795.00
Valve Covers (EMPI / Aluminum)
$ 24.00
Oil Pump (Schadek 30mm)
$ 44.00
Oil Pump Cover Full Flow
$ 16.00
Oil Strainer
$ 13.00
Distributor / Crank Gear Set
$ 21.00
Nuts / Bolts
$ 23.00
Hardware Kit
$ 13.00
Gland Nut (BVW)
$ 16.00
Clutch Disc (Daikin)
$ 42.00
presure plate stg 1
$ 95.00
Balancing (Piston, Rods, Crank, Flywheel, Pressure Plate)
$ 120.00
labor to build
$600
Long Block Total:
$4,589.00

[vwracerdave]

You DO NOT need to sleeve the lifter bores on a new case. Brothers is bad about whoring this out to make lots of extra profit. You DO NOT need straight cut cam gears. I'd use the FK-8 for a street car that will never see the track. It's a little bit milder on the valve train then the FK-44.
_________________
2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK

[slalombuggy]

I bought a CB kit as the base for my big engine. I upgraded a few parts and Pat had a custom cam ground for me. Couldn't be happier with their product or assistance. Aside from some case work on the aluminum case, that I did because I wanted to, the engine basically fell together with all the parts bang on spec.

brad

[modok]

make your own kit.

Cb-
Panchito heads, intake manifolds match ported, H beam rods, clevite rod bearings, silicone o-ring, pushod tubes&seal, main seal, hex oil relief plugs, maxi 26mm gear oil pump, ratio rockers (if not using VW style)

DPR-
78 stroke crank and flywheel, balanced, mains mid spec rods lowside, end play width wrote on flywheel

ACN-
Web camshaft and lifters,
mahle P&C Or AA thickwall 92
Scat gland nut, tru-arc pin clips
ACN nice aluminum pushrods
carb parts, linkage of some kind, oil cooler, oil pump cover, oil filter stuff.
Whatever oddball special parts you need
Good clutch, daiken or copperhead

Your favorite VW machine shop, rimco, or YOU-
Case machined, main bearings and cam bearings, cam gear machined for bolts, pulley and case cut for seal (optional), all the tin studs and stuff you are missing, the gaskets you need since you didn't buy a gasket kit, polish cam thrust bearing faces, extend oil pickup, tap for oil lines, plug oil pump, degree cam, check deck height, get shims from rimco or doctor some cheap ones if if know how, cut pushrods to length, make tin fit, check stuff I didn't think of, and someday it will be time to actually assemble it.

[jason]

Do a 2110 or thick wall 2180 with panchitos.

[porkchop-rob]

If you contact mofoco, brothers, DRD, aircooled.net, CB Performance, etc, etc, etc....

Any of them can put you a parts list together to reach your goals.

Building it correctly, that's a whole different conversation. You should expect to measure and check and tweak and clearance and machine and fit most everything. Not much will come out of the package 100% ready to bolt in....no matter who you buy from.
_________________
1965 Beetle
1968 Beetle Baja (Son's First Car)
1976 Bus with Subaru (Wife's Riviera Camper)

[vwinnovator]

[porkchop-rob]