Parts/Accessories - 68-up Bus

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 10:07 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 147 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
...and pull the entire window regulator out of the door.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 10:06 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 125 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
...note the position of the winder...

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 10:05 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 135 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
now finally the window regulator can be safely removed. unbolt it and begin threading it through the frame in a counterclockwise direction (RH door shown). opposite direction for LH door.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 10:05 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 83 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
removing the door glass.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 10:04 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 139 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
time to remove the inner scraper. these seldom wear out or crack being inside the vehicle, aftermarket replacements are a waste of money. reuse the old ones. note the angle of the clip heads, and the position of the screwdriver blade i am using to remove them. this is the optimal spot to pry on them. the clips are actually a single piece of wire and prying in the middle of the clip head will tear the rubber as it is unsupported here. prying on the other side will force the clip head against the outer panel.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 10:03 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 96 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
a better view of the lower retaining tab. it has already damaged the outer scraper. luckily this one is not going to be reused. replacement scrapers are pricy, but essential in minimising intrusion of water and debris into the door.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 10:03 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 148 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
tipping the wing out. i have moved the top inward of the door frame, and my right hand is holding the glass so that it doesnt drop suddenly. be very mindful of the lower retaining tab that it doesnt get caught on either the outer scraper or the bracing in the door itself. be patient wrangling the vent wing out at this point, it is a slow process.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 10:02 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 101 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
the wing is now ready to tip out of the door frame. note the bent upper tab. be gentle, and watch the outer scraper at the bottom, this is the time when it is most vulnerable to damage.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 10:01 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 110 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
with the felt channel removed, the upper vent wing retaining screw is exposed. early models used a machine screw, 71-onwards used a self tapping screw. remove the screw, and note: if you take a slender screwdriver and bend this tab downward at a 30* angle you have less chance of hitting the delicate aluminum outer scraper and damaging it.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 10:01 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 109 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
then, begin prying away the felt channel. there are five retainer clips holding it in place. pry outward until you locate these clips, and in those areas, squeeze the channel together with pliers to facilitate removal from the clips. the clips are spring steel and are delicate, and the tongue holding them to the door frame will break if you attempt to pry them out with the channel. release the clips from the channel first, then remove the clips by forcing them forward to release the tongue. be gentle.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 10:00 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 86 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
now it is time to remove the vent wing. first, remove the lower bolt.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 9:37 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 120 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
here i am unbolting the window from the regulator trolley and lifting it upward to clear it. then slide it all the way downward.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 9:35 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 126 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
now remove the rear window channel extension. remove one bolt, then pull the extension down to release the retaining clip at the top.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 9:35 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 91 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
now release the guide block from the inner panel. a round locating tab can be disengaged from its hole by prying with a thin screwdriver, then the entire block and lever slides upward. then remove two bolts retaining the handle itself and guide the lever and handle out of the door.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 9:34 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 131 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
first order of business once the interior trim has been removed (trite details) is to remove the inner door latch handle. here i am releasing the actuating lever from the latch assembly. with one finger, pull back the retainer and with another finger, force the lever forward until the elbow separates from the latch, then move the entire lever downward to clear it.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 9:26 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 117 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
inner view of late slider installed on early bus.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 9:24 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 139 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
shown is a '74 door installed on a '70 bus. despite noteworthy differences in the latch mechanisms and outer skin stamping, their interface with the body remained unchanged and the entire assemblies can be successfully interchanged with only regular alignment adjustments. however, a late slider cannot be keyed to match the rest of the vehicle and vice-versa as the key profile itself also was revised and the location of the lock tumblers is different between early and late. in this case, the tumbler actuating lever was removed so that the inner lock lever remains functional.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 9:18 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 208 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
here it is. the inner flap is essential to prevent water and salt from pooling between the shield and the inner panel it is glued to. this would have been salvageable had some mental defective not gotten his hands on it earlier and ruined the lower portion to make way for some dime-store speakers.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 9:16 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 250 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
it is possible to remove these without damaging them. just like removing a bandaid, use quick tugs. note the inner flap which prevents moisture from pooling between the outer shield and the inner panel. it is heat sealed to the outer shield.

radrob · Posted: Sat Mar 24, 2007 10:05 pm Size: 768x576 Views: 299 Rating: Not rated

radrob
36 hp fuel pump after rebuild

cripesschuiter · Posted: Sat Mar 24, 2007 11:01 am Size: 600x450 Views: 85 Rating: Not rated

cripesschuiter
unknown table

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 10:04 pm Size: 958x1260 Views: 157 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
when you feel your screwdriver starting to "cam-out" of the screw head, stop.

if you have not already, invest in some screwdrivers with wrenching flats on the shank, this will allow you to press full force on the handle toward the screw head, while wrenching with your other hand for maximum breakout force. use slow, steady pressure with the wrench to minimise breakage. sometimes it is more desireable to break the shaft of the screw in the hole rather than find an alternate method to remove the screw, such as hammer and chisel. this screw was removed successfully with this method.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:57 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 172 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
in rare form, original paint intact. use semigloss black here, same as the engine tin.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:52 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 75 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
had a tiny hole drilled in the bottom to allow water and dirt to drain. without it, part of the headlight retaining frame is submerged in water. ensure this hole is pointing downward when installing the headlight bezel and if it is missing, drill it out.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:47 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 87 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
these rubber washers were used between the signal lens and housing. their purpose was twofold: firstly, they conveniently held the screws in the lens during factory assembly so they did not have to be inserted separately on the line, secondly, they allowed for some forgiveness when torquing down the screws so as not to crack the lens. the constant pressure against the screws when the unit is assembled also helps prevent the screw from backing out. these washers are available from any industrial fastener centre, specify black nylon or polyurethane. butyl rubber will crack and crumble within a couple years.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:39 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 320 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
the window removed. to remove the window from the frame for lubrication, cleaning, seal replacement and so on, the rivet on at least one side of the upright needs to be removed. this rivet is not a pop style, it is a solid rivet with the shop head on the inside. 68-69 wings had a window frame painted light gray, 70-71 frames were flat black, and all deluxe frames and standard 72-on were chromed. fill this void with black urethane prior to installation to avoid accumulation of dirt and moisture.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:30 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 193 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
it is tempting to use the heel of your hand to strike against the upright to break the window free. shown here is why such practice is ill advised. the upright is held in place by two tiny rivets, and the steel tabs are thin gauge at the best of times. a good whack with the quarter window removed would easily break a rusted one. also shown is the flap you need to peel back when reapplying black urethane sealant, closing the flap over it will help force more of it into the joint. the window is now in position to be tipped out of the opening. note the locating tab. tip it out from the top.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:24 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 192 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
now that the bond has been broken between the seal and the paint/headliner, you must pry the unit back in the window opening until the locating tabs are aligned with the notches in the hemflange. begin prying at the top and bottom edges where there is strength, and once the unit is moving freely pry in the center to move top and bottom evenly. this tool was forged in a few minutes, a small prybar will do the same task but wrap the tip with electrical tape if you do not wish to harm the paint.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:15 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 292 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
several people have mentioned in the forums how difficult it is to remove these units without damaging them. it is simple if you know what you are doing. the trick is to move the entire unit seal and all to the notch in the hemflange shown here. first, remove the quarter window and seal. then, peel back the flap at top and bottom of the wing seal and scrape the black urethane sealant from the seam. dig in as far as is practicable. then, go around the entire seal inside and out with a plastic pointed tool. auto glass shops will have these available. this will break the bond between the rubber and paint, or headliner.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:07 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 143 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
that same strap again, behind the drivers seat. presumably this strap first appeared on 1970 models, and perhaps held the hazet tool kit in place?

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:02 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 116 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
late on the left, early on the right. redesigned in '72 to accomodate the new welded in place apron and revised decklid.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:00 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 141 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
this seal is used over the brake and clutch pedals to repel wind and moisture. it is a closed cell polyurethane foam held in place by two vertical beads of pliable glue. i recommend replacing these seals with a felt material and the same pliable glue. note the position of the relief cut, downward to allow water to drain.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 8:44 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 125 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
used over all wheeltub seams to repel moisture. there is some debate in the forums over the origin and nature of this sealant, it is extremely hard. i would imagine 3M brushable seam sealer would make an acceptable substitute though it will be more pliable and susceptible to damage from flung gravel.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 8:42 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 111 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
here it is mounted over the rubber damper. note the correct colour for the bracket is cloud white, same as the bumpers. the pan is a semigloss black, same as is used on the engine tin and other places. also note the seal used between the splashpan and the bumper.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2007 8:38 pm Size: 1260x958 Views: 78 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
this material is the same as used in the icebox drain, and apparently the side mats on split bus walkthrough sections. here it is being used as a vibration damper between the bumper bracket and the splashpan. bolt is a M4. 68-71 bus shown.

hazetguy · Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2007 11:17 am Size: 640x480 Views: 124 Rating: Not rated

hazetguy
This is the original horn from my 74 Westfalia.
Bosch horn, made in Germany.
This was undercoated from new. I cleaned off the undercoating and found pretty decent original paint. Even the galvanizing is still nice.

hazetguy · Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2007 11:14 am Size: 640x480 Views: 130 Rating: Not rated

hazetguy
This is the original horn from my 74 Westfalia.
Bosch horn, made in Germany, and other identifying numbers on the back.
Pretty nice original paint that was buried under original undercoating. The paint is almost like a baked on enamel, very tough.

hazetguy · Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2007 11:11 am Size: 640x480 Views: 85 Rating: Not rated

hazetguy
This is the original horn from my 74 Westfalia.
This is the number and specification tag on the mounting bracket.

promocom · Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 9:02 pm Size: 156x88 Views: 125 Rating: Not rated

promocom
78 Paint chip

Adventurewagen · Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 12:11 pm Size: 448x299 Views: 208 Rating: Not rated

Adventurewagen

shaler · Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 7:13 pm Size: 540x720 Views: 118 Rating: Not rated

shaler

shaler · Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 5:21 pm Size: 720x540 Views: 117 Rating: Not rated

shaler

shaler · Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 4:38 pm Size: 540x720 Views: 92 Rating: Not rated

shaler

shaler · Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 4:35 pm Size: 720x540 Views: 128 Rating: Not rated

shaler

shaler · Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 4:33 pm Size: 720x540 Views: 207 Rating: Not rated

shaler

shaler · Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 4:32 pm Size: 540x720 Views: 64 Rating: Not rated

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shaler · Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 4:27 pm Size: 720x540 Views: 143 Rating: Not rated

shaler

shaler · Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 4:26 pm Size: 720x540 Views: 132 Rating: Not rated

shaler

shaler · Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 4:24 pm Size: 540x720 Views: 72 Rating: Not rated

shaler

hazetguy · Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 7:57 pm Size: 640x480 Views: 205 Rating: Not rated

hazetguy
EGR port on the #4 exhaust manifold, and the EGR box that sits on the front left side of the engine. These were on my 74 CA emissions bus.


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