Parts/Accessories - 68-up Bus

ChiTwnVW · Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 5:22 pm Size: 480x640 Views: 134 Rating: Not rated

ChiTwnVW

ChiTwnVW · Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 5:21 pm Size: 640x480 Views: 107 Rating: Not rated

ChiTwnVW
T4. It was tapped and plugged when I got it. Stock? Scott at GS says some of the early T4s did come that way.

ChiTwnVW · Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 5:18 pm Size: 640x480 Views: 112 Rating: Not rated

ChiTwnVW

ChiTwnVW · Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 1:10 pm Size: 480x640 Views: 139 Rating: Not rated

ChiTwnVW

surfindo · Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 7:44 am Size: 500x375 Views: 85 Rating: Not rated

surfindo

Adventurewagen · Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 10:33 am Size: 448x336 Views: 133 Rating: Not rated

Adventurewagen
Old vs. new mount for my 71

whip618 · Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 5:37 pm Size: 572x428 Views: 85 Rating: Not rated

whip618

hazetguy · Posted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:19 pm Size: 640x480 Views: 200 Rating: Not rated

hazetguy
Here is a pic of the seal size on the splined output shaft, where the pitman/drop arm attaches, on my '74 ZF steering box.
Size (measured in millimeters): 28 x 38 x 7

promocom · Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 10:20 pm Size: 377x269 Views: 149 Rating: Not rated

promocom

whip618 · Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 7:40 pm Size: 572x428 Views: 109 Rating: Not rated

whip618

whip618 · Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 7:39 pm Size: 572x428 Views: 127 Rating: Not rated

whip618

dwill49965 · Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 1:17 pm Size: 1024x768 Views: 132 Rating: Not rated

dwill49965
another view

dwill49965 · Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 1:11 pm Size: 1024x768 Views: 135 Rating: Not rated

dwill49965
I ground off the big bulge and cut a rectangular hole so I could still use the parking brake light.

dwill49965 · Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 1:10 pm Size: 1024x768 Views: 121 Rating: Not rated

dwill49965
For the bus depot parcel trays. The big bulge has no hole that allows the parking brake indicator light switch to turn on and off.

ChiTwnVW · Posted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 10:46 pm Size: 640x480 Views: 128 Rating: Not rated

ChiTwnVW
...seems to be 1/2" too short...

Type2meister · Posted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 9:28 pm Size: 1024x768 Views: 807 Rating: Not rated

Type2meister

brenthughes · Posted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 5:04 pm Size: 366x358 Views: 169 Rating: Not rated

brenthughes
Slight pitting on outside surface

dwill49965 · Posted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 2:14 pm Size: 1200x900 Views: 224 Rating: Not rated

dwill49965
Reflectivity is excellent for the sign.

dwill49965 · Posted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 2:13 pm Size: 1200x900 Views: 312 Rating: Not rated

dwill49965
Looks pretty cool, stays on well even with a film of dirt and dust on the van.

ChiTwnVW · Posted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 7:02 am Size: 640x480 Views: 161 Rating: Not rated

ChiTwnVW

ChiTwnVW · Posted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 7:00 am Size: 640x480 Views: 142 Rating: Not rated

ChiTwnVW

hazetguy · Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 4:07 pm Size: 640x480 Views: 243 Rating: Not rated

hazetguy
I had to replace the electrical part of the ignition switch.
This shows the factory shear bolt removed from the lock assembly.

hazetguy · Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 4:05 pm Size: 640x480 Views: 264 Rating: Not rated

hazetguy
I had to replace the electrical part of the ignition switch, and while I had the assembly out, I removed, cleaned, and repacked the steering column bearing.

hazetguy · Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 7:18 pm Size: 640x480 Views: 899 Rating: 10

hazetguy
The horn contact ring on the bottom of the steering wheel had worn through the contact on the turn signal/high beam switch, and therefore there was no continuity in the horn button grounding circuit. I slightly bent the contact on the switch so a new contact point could be made. Now the circuit completes, and the factory wiring works as it should, and the horn button works again. However, this is only a temporary fix.

hazetguy · Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 7:12 pm Size: 480x640 Views: 342 Rating: Not rated

hazetguy
Harness for the voltage regulator.
How many splices are really necessary? Nice.

hazetguy · Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 7:10 pm Size: 640x480 Views: 212 Rating: Not rated

hazetguy
Harness for the heater fan motor.
How many splices are really necessary? Geez.

hazetguy · Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 7:08 pm Size: 640x480 Views: 189 Rating: Not rated

hazetguy
A nice pair of Bosch euro bulb type headlights I bought on ebay recently. Installed on the bus.

hazetguy · Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 7:06 pm Size: 640x480 Views: 130 Rating: Not rated

hazetguy
A nice pair of Bosch euro bulb type headlights I bought on ebay recently. Installed on the bus.

hazetguy · Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 6:46 pm Size: 640x480 Views: 138 Rating: Not rated

hazetguy
A nice pair of Bosch euro bulb type headlights I bought on ebay recently.

hazetguy · Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 6:45 pm Size: 640x480 Views: 95 Rating: Not rated

hazetguy
A nice pair of Bosch euro bulb type headlights I bought on ebay recently.

hazetguy · Posted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 8:53 pm Size: 640x480 Views: 297 Rating: Not rated

hazetguy
Removed some of the factory wiring harness from the clips, cleaned it up, put some new ends on. This was to simplify the wiring mess that was in the engine compartment. Harness was then reinstalled.
I also removed just a little bit of poor wiring that was not really hooked up to anything.

hazetguy · Posted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 8:49 pm Size: 640x480 Views: 298 Rating: Not rated

hazetguy
The factory diagnostic box. Most of the wires were already disconnected, and the box was just kinda hanging there. This was removed to clean up the engine compartment and eliminate random wires that went nowhere.

hazetguy · Posted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 8:46 pm Size: 640x480 Views: 299 Rating: Not rated

hazetguy
Poorly wired dual battery relay. This was removed to clean up the engine compartment and eliminate some wiring problems.

nezz · Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 1:37 pm Size: 1200x900 Views: 151 Rating: Not rated

nezz
almost 100.000

brenthughes · Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 7:15 am Size: 384x288 Views: 417 Rating: Not rated

brenthughes
opposite side

brenthughes · Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 7:14 am Size: 384x288 Views: 106 Rating: Not rated

brenthughes
Located between outer CV joint and stub axle on 68 bus. Convex portion protrudes into stub axle dish.

ChiTwnVW · Posted: Fri Feb 16, 2007 10:36 pm Size: 640x480 Views: 114 Rating: Not rated

ChiTwnVW
Clippy thing for sliding door and rear hatch panels.

vwkurt · Posted: Fri Feb 16, 2007 11:44 am Size: 600x450 Views: 110 Rating: Not rated

vwkurt

ChiTwnVW · Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 8:57 pm Size: 640x480 Views: 122 Rating: Not rated

ChiTwnVW
73 Westy

ChiTwnVW · Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 8:27 pm Size: 640x480 Views: 90 Rating: Not rated

ChiTwnVW
'73 Westy

ChiTwnVW · Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 8:24 pm Size: 480x640 Views: 90 Rating: Not rated

ChiTwnVW
73 Westy. Is this original?

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 4:45 pm Size: 1204x916 Views: 826 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
as a final flourish you may wish to protect the zerks from road dirt and salt, and for this task i recommend these rubber caps, which are factory supplied on all spicer/dana drive/steer axles used on heavy equipment, and which are available from any dana driveline component distributor. check the yellow pages under truck and look for the dana logo. these caps are made of a high quality rubber that does not dry out and crack.

more commonly found are the yellow or red plastic caps with retaining ring available from most industrial fastener distributors, which i find to be of lesser quality and dont stay in place as well due to cracking with age and from cold weather. they are better than nothing i suppose.

thats it, thats all.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 4:34 pm Size: 1204x916 Views: 597 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
or here at the drilling in the dust cap. If the joint has not been greased regularly you may keep going until fresh grease appears. Mind the dust cap that it is not forced out of the counterbore, if it sits loose or there is no drilling here, it may be. Remove excess grease, ensure there is a small drilling and it is clear, and tap it back in. Note that if the drilling is too large that grease may not reach all points of the upper bushing as it will take the path of least resistance.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 4:29 pm Size: 1204x916 Views: 696 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
greasing the center pin. Inject grease until you see grease appear at one of two places, or preferably both; here at the joint between the housing and the relay lever,

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 4:22 pm Size: 1204x916 Views: 667 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
Greasing the center pin. This zerk is recessed in the housing and it is common to find coal tar, mud, and solidified grease obstructing the zerk if it has not been lubricated for some time, as is the case with this one. Use the pick to remove all dirt and mud or the grease coupler will not fully engage. Again wipe the face clean.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 4:12 pm Size: 1204x916 Views: 597 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
Continue to inject grease until you hear snapping noises emanating from the joint, which is the sound of air being forced out. You will then see grease start to appear at the joint. Stop here.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 4:07 pm Size: 1204x916 Views: 640 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
Coupling the grease gun and injecting grease. Note that the coupler is locked on the fitting and does not require steadying by the hand, and is not leaking at the connection. If the zerk and coupler are both in good condition, and the coupler is placed perpendicular to the fitting there should be no leakage of grease. Replace the coupler or zerk as necessary. I prefer lever action guns as opposed to trigger style as more force can be used when injecting grease with the former style. I have the best luck with Stewart-Warner Alemite 500 guns.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 4:02 pm Size: 1204x916 Views: 696 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
Shown is the lower RH torsion tube zerk. I have wiped all dirt from the flat face of the zerk, exposing the check ball. It is important to ensure the zerk is clean so no dirt or grit is forced into the joint along with the grease. Lubrication intervals and type of grease to use are a point of debate, as your driving conditions and the type of grease you use will affect the greasing intervals. I prefer to use Castrol MP wheel bearing grease at 3000 mile intervals for everyday driving conditions. For rough conditions such as country backroads I would use a molybdenum disulfide grease. If you do not abuse your bus and grease often, the type you use will have little effect on the longevity of your front end, it is most important to grease the front end regularly. Regular EP1 and EP2 (respecting the ambient temperature) used every 2-3000 miles is adequate.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 3:53 pm Size: 1204x916 Views: 795 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
shown here is the final zerk for the center pin, or relay lever bushing as it is commonly called. You will note here the position of the anti-sway bar when the vehicle is raised, it is well out of the way. It is best to grease the front end when the weight is removed from the joints, as the load points which require the most grease are relaxed and grease can get to them. When the vehicle is at rest the swaybar tends to block access to the center pin zerk. Also, pictured is the saddle for a typical floor jack, and this is where you want to position it when jacking the front end, being mindful not to crush the dust cap at the bottom of the pivot housing. I prefer a broad saddle of around four inches. Smaller ones tend to deform frame rails and are less stable. Jackstands should be placed at the far end of either bottom torsion tube.

steponmebbbboom · Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 3:44 pm Size: 1204x916 Views: 888 Rating: Not rated

steponmebbbboom
Shown is the drivers side, again looking toward the front. two more zerks, one on each torsion tube. These zerks lubricate the needle bearings supporting the trailing arm bosses. Early split buses (pre-64) used simple bushings; made of bakelite, the same material used in old pot handles.


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