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Paint
Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2018 4:13 am
Size: 1000x677   Views: 23
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Paint
Exaktaphile
It was a nice sprinkly day so I fired up the machine for some low-dust spraying. This is SPI Universal Clear. It's truly a universal product that can be used over most quality bases and single-stages. Easy to work with. 1957 lowlight Ghia forellenblau l330 trout blue


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Something Fishy...
Posted: Wed Oct 24, 2018 12:27 am
Size: 1000x750   Views: 46
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Something Fishy...
Exaktaphile
More painting. Impossible to get a picture that looks the right color. lol 1957 lowlight Ghia trout blue


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Paint
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2018 8:24 pm
Size: 1000x687   Views: 48
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Paint
Exaktaphile
I got a good deal on a 6-stage turbine motor so I decided to check out the hvlp turbine craze. I built this one with variable speed and a 4-6 stage switch (see gallery). It will outperform all of the retail units on the market except maybe one.

I have to learn how to use the low pressure so I've been painting unseen areas to see what the differences are from compressor spraying (and, to get rid of a couple color samples I had mixed up). This is the first try at clear and it atomized very well without overreduction. lowlight 1957 Ghia trout blue l330 forellenblau


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Turbine Time - 10
Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 8:30 am
Size: 1000x835   Views: 49
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Turbine Time - 10
Exaktaphile
This is a test spot of Deltron 2000 DBC basecoat to check color. The turbine has no problem atomizing the product when mixed to spec. The lack of overspray was pretty unbelievable. I dialed-in a good spray pattern and then varied the pressure a little to nearly eliminate the overspray. I sprayed slightly wet coats so the flake will lay down. This is a super fine flake so it probably isn't a huge deal.

The PPG formula that's on the internet is the right hue for my car but the flake is too big. We're reconfiguring the formula with small flake so it matches a very small sample from my car that couldn't be computer matched because of size. hvlp turbine


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Turbine Time - 9
Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2018 5:29 am
Size: 800x541   Views: 22
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Turbine Time - 9
Exaktaphile
When I attach the gun directly to the turbine outlet (no hose), I get a solid 6psi flow pressure through the air pressure fitting. This isn't the perfect place to catch pressure but at least it's inside the gun. 6psi is about the max you'll get out of this gun with a single turbine because the 7500/7700 is a conversion gun (needs 22psi to get 10 at the cap).

With a 50 foot hose, 6-stage turbine, Apollo 7700 gun (everything adjusted wide open), and 1mm needle/B cap, I have fully adjustable flow pressure from .5-5psi at the air pressure fitting. Hopefully the cap pressure is in the same range or higher. The difference between high and low speeds hovers around 2psi.

The pressure increases when I adjust the overspray control below its recommended setting and also when I narrow the fan. At the smallest fan setting and trimming the air, I can get 9 psi in the gun. I might make a cap pressure gauge to see what's going on up front but a lot can be inferred from the chart for compressed air use.

If you want to shoot this gun to its full potential, there's no such thing as having "more stages than you need". At 2psi per stage, you'll "need" an 11-stage turbine to shoot get a 10psi cap pressure.

About turbine unit pressures - retail turbines market their maximum pressure as a "sealed pressure". Sealed pressure is taken off the capped end of the motor with no hose or gun. You might get half that when you add the required parts to actually spray paint.


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Turbine Time - 8
Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 11:06 pm
Size: 800x600   Views: 11
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Turbine Time - 8
Exaktaphile
One of the reasons I got a 50-foot hose was to try coiling part of the hose in a bucket and still have a good length for painting. It appears turbines heat constantly rises as you spray so I want to stabilize the temp. or at least knock a few degrees off the top.

I coiled 10 feet of hose, 3 feet from the turbine. The bucket has 8-10 inches of cold tap water that's 70F.

The 3 foot straight run of hose gives the hottest air molecules room to disperse in the air stream. Apparently, some of these hoses can melt without a short straight run in the hose. The hose coils easily into a 5-gallon bucket.

Let's think about what the air in the hose does when you're actually spraying paint. The pressurized air in the hose starts and stops repeatedly, moving a little every time you pull the gun trigger. With the water coil, blocks of air stop, get cooled, and then move on down the line. This will work if you're a painter who starts the trigger with each direction change. If you hold the trigger down constantly when you spray, this won't work, as the air won't have time to stop and get cooled. However, we do have 40 more feet of hose - the longer your hose, the lower your gun pressure will be.

This worked so well, I thought my thermometer was broken. After 1/2 hour on high speed with repeated blocking/unblocking the hose, the air at the gun fitting was 72F. My last test at low speed with no cooler was 105F at the same fitting. Looks like we can tune air temps by adding warmer or cooler water. The main thing I'm after is a stable output temp.

My next idea was an aftercooler with a fan (probably a better idea). The advantage of air cooling is something you guys already know.

I scored a new Apollo 7700 Atomizer (redesign of the 7500). Apollo was pretty cool to sell me one before it was listed in their web store.


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Turbine Time - 7
Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 1:33 pm
Size: 800x976   Views: 20
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Turbine Time - 7
Exaktaphile
I bought a 50 foot Tuff-Guard garden hose that's been recommended on other sites because it fits the specs for a turbine and is half the price.

I don't have a gun yet so I'm replicating the pressure changes of spraying by covering/uncovering the end of the hose at intervals one might use when shooting. The motor is set on the low speed (4-stage).

After 30 minutes of "spraying" and "dwelling", the hose fitting at the box is too hot to handle comfortably and the hose is getting warmer and warmer. Also, I'm getting 170f out of the air bleeder tube when I stick the thermometer in the tube. The 170f may be a false reading and is actually heat off the tube/casting.

I went through some manuals and it's clear most mfrs. are using the air hose as a heat exchanger (more like heat absorber). Hose isn't a great heat conductor so this explains mfrs. who make insulated guns so your hand doesn't get hot. I wonder how hot the sheet metal boxes of those units are getting. I noticed the 6-stage Capspray 115 is housed in plastic.

Speaking of hot air. Advertisements and users say these blow warm, dry air. The turbine heat magically eradicates water from the air! How does it do this in a relatively closed system? Does the turbine split the water molecules and convert them back into hydrogen and oxygen gas? Meteorological fact; hot air holds more water than cool air.

When I first installed the new hose and turned on the machine, I had a few drops of condensation at the gun end. After things heated up, it evaporated out the open end of the hose. Warm your machine up and spray some air before adding paint!

More things to consider. If we cool the air, the output temp needs to stay above the dew point or the air may dump it's water inside the hose. Perhaps it will be better to stay on the warm side to ensure the humidity stays put? I've never seen any complaints of blush problems... Next, I'll try the easiest method of cooling - coiled hose in a bucket of water.


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Turbine Time - 6
Posted: Sun Jul 29, 2018 9:14 pm
Size: 800x673   Views: 24
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Turbine Time - 6
Exaktaphile
Everyone says the air from turbines is "hot" or "warm". Nobody posts any temps for neophytes. No surprise that people are skittish about hvlp turbines when there's a lack of details. Most people considering a turbine unit kind of want to know exactitactly what to expect.

Out of curiosity, I ran the (6 stage) motor for 1/2 hour at high speed, with no air filter or hose. Nothing fancy, just holding a meat thermometer in the air stream. The temp (one inch from air hose fitting) went from an ambient 70f to 115f in a couple minutes and stayed there until I switched to the low speed whereupon the temp dropped to 105f. When I turned the variable speed all the way down the temp dropped to 90f on the low setting. There you have it - first time on the internet - temps off a turbine. lol Let's see how the numbers climb after I buy a hose/gun and have a pressurized system. hvlp

I attached the paper Claude's filter and ran the motor for a while. The temp went up 15 degrees so I need less restriction. A small K&N cone gives no temp increase.


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Turbine Time - 5
Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2018 8:32 pm
Size: 800x740   Views: 12
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Turbine Time - 5
Exaktaphile
I used a Claude's Buggies filter that was on the car when I got it. The switches are on/off, variable speed, and high/low. All the parameters of spraying are now adjustable. hvlp turbine

The motor came pre-wired for two speeds (hi/low). Hi=19.3krpm, Low=17.3krpm - one company says hi=6-stage, low=4-stage.

Use an SPDT switch for changing speeds and a simple on/off light switch for power. If you don't want to mess with extra wiring/soldering you can plug the whole box into a router speed control from HF.


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Turbine Time - 4
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 9:38 pm
Size: 800x816   Views: 13
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Turbine Time - 4
Exaktaphile
I may have gone a little overboard drilling vent holes on the end near the cooling fan intake. After everything is finished, I'll run the motor for 1/2 hour and see what the temperatures look like. Some instruction books indicate the hose fitting can burn you after a brief period of operation.

The turbine housing is metal so I'm already thinking about wrapping it in insulation or shrouding the.. ah heck, you aircooler's know what's going down. The other idea is a heat exchanger between the box and the hose. I'll wait on that until I do some test runs. hvlp turbine

Ametek has a page with part numbers of motors intended for hvlp. I included their listed 110's plus a couple others below. 110v Ametek/Lamb motors I had on the shopping/pricing list:

4 Stage - 117197, 119212, 119292 (accuspray and fuji 4), 119337, 122049, 122195 (accuspray), 122221

5 Stage - 122050, 122220, 122482

6 Stage - 122097 (capspray 115)


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Turbine Time - 3
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 12:57 pm
Size: 800x683   Views: 15
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Turbine Time - 3
Exaktaphile
The cooling fan on the motor reduces the threat of hot turbine air but there's still a problem to consider. The main casting is a giant heat sink (aluminum) and the cooling fan blows the hot air onto the casting. One of the patents on this motor indicates they started using the metal casting to reduce turbine noise.

Bleeder at yellow arrow. The bleeder is a constant air leak in the system to give pressure/heat relief when you aren't pulling the trigger on the gun. The exploded drawings of a couple hvlp turbine makers show a 1/8-27 NPT hose barb with a plastic hose installed here. It's vented to the atmosphere through a cooling vent on the box. Apollo says their first turbine with bleeder was mfd. in 2007.

Early and/or Low powered turbines don't seem to have bleeders, likely because the air pressure is already pretty low. A constant bleed off the system could ruin the ability to atomize the paint. Thus the invention of the bleeder gun. hvlp turbine


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Turbine Time - 2
Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 12:42 pm
Size: 1000x473   Views: 11
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Turbine Time - 2
Exaktaphile
The wooden box will be nearly a 10 inch cube. Parts used in these pics:

3 - 1/4 x 5" bolts with washers/nuts. Snug them up until the gasket seats well but don't overtighten and collapse the turbine housing.
3 - 3.5" pieces of 3/16" PVC for spacers. Adjust length according to your motor/gasket thickness.
1 - piece of an old electrostatic computer mat for the gasket between wood and fan. Anything will work but be sure the fan doesn't suck air from inside the box.
1 - 1 1/4" PVC coupler for air intake, epoxied into a 2" bore in the wood. The I.D. of this size coupler is a little bigger than the fan intake.

hvlp turbine


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Turbine Time - 1
Posted: Fri Jul 20, 2018 1:07 am
Size: 556x722   Views: 21
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Turbine Time - 1
Exaktaphile
Let's do something with a 6-stage vacuum motor. I've got some painting in the near future. :-)

It's amazing how little info there is on hvlp turbine units. Makers seem to have optimized guns to whatever stage motor was available at the time. For low powered machines, this has created the opposite universe of reducing/thinning paint before you can see the "normal" coating. Thinning/reducing is not a big deal but some paints do look better without modifiers.

I would prefer a turbine that's slightly overpowered and will allow full control of speed/pressure. That's the direction I'm going.


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Totally Wurth It
Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 6:01 pm
Size: 1000x750   Views: 69
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Totally Wurth It
Exaktaphile
I shot 6 liters and have an average thickness of 50-60mils (1/16", 1.27mm).

First coat - 3 liters for coverage.

Second coat - one hour flash time and then 2 liters to build up previous coat. The first two coats had nice texture but were smoother than factory.

Third coat - to experiment with textures and "find"a nice finish. I fogged (drop coat) most of the last liter after 18 hours flash time onto a still-tacky gooey surface. This coat formed primarily on top of the 2nd, instead of melting into the previous coats. This looks far better. Since I only had one liter, I concentrated on the more visible areas first and then worked my way out.

Looks like giving a good period of time between coats for solvent evaporation can help attain a high-relief texture. "Flash time" of course, depends on temperature and humidity. Karmann certainly used more product than 6 liters.

Afterwards, there is no more hollow tin-can sound to the body. :-) 1957 lowlight Ghia, stone guard, wuerth, undercoating, underseal


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Undercoating
Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2018 4:34 am
Size: 1000x750   Views: 29
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Undercoating
Exaktaphile
Heck yeah, let's get some on that conduit. 1957 lowlight Ghia undercoating, wurth, stone guard, trunk, dash


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Soylent Green is People
Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2018 10:23 am
Size: 1000x750   Views: 34
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Soylent Green is People
Exaktaphile
I seal my driveway every two years and can tell you the Wurth product looks, smells, and behaves (in liquid pudding form) like the stuff I squeegee onto the asphalt! I use Latex-ite Airport Grade from Home Depot. That doesn't guarantee it'll work on a car but maybe someone will do some experimenting cause it's like $30 for a 5 gallon bucket.

If I was doing a penny pincher resto, I'd spray a fender with Latex-ite, seal the heck out of it and see how it wears. 1957 lowlight Ghia schutz undercoating wurth


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Covert Seam Sealing
Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2018 5:31 am
Size: 788x800   Views: 15
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Covert Seam Sealing
Exaktaphile
Schutzing the long seams in the luggage compartment. These applications are mostly cosmetic, as there is already a quality seam sealer underneath.

Don't spray the seams until after you've finished the bottom of the car. The gained experience will assist you in knowing how to control the spray. 1957 lowlight Ghia sks, undercoat, underseal, wurth, stone guard, stoneguard


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Undercoating
Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 3:58 pm
Size: 1000x750   Views: 13
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Undercoating
Exaktaphile
I was on the last few ounces of undercoat and realized I'd forgotten my trunk seams so I hurriedly shot them without a shield (oops!). Stray dots of fine overspray from the water-based Wurth material clean up easily with a damp sponge. 1957 lowlight Ghia SKS undercoating, underseal, schutz


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Masking for Undercoating
Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 3:53 pm
Size: 591x1000   Views: 53
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Masking for Undercoating
Exaktaphile
Masking grommet holes, harness tabs and places where washers, clips and rubber need to seat well. 1957 lowlight Ghia

At the top you can see a golf ball-sized blob of dum dum putty pressed into place by a dedicated factory employee. I left it in place cause it's pretty cool. grommets, door pillar seal, mud sill, gravel shield, harness tabs, underseal, schutz


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Original Door Undercoating
Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 4:46 am
Size: 789x603   Views: 18
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Original Door Undercoating
Exaktaphile
Original undercoating on door. Factory undercoating texture seems to vary quite a bit when you go through peoples pictures. The guy who shot my car did a real nice job but it was probably Monday morning. By Friday afternoon, he'd be talking to his pals, moving the gun unevenly, and there'd be massive runs all over the place. 1957 lowlight Ghia texture schutz underseal


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Rear Fender, Lower Front
Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 8:27 am
Size: 1000x460   Views: 25
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Rear Fender, Lower Front
Exaktaphile
It was necessary to modify a late KG part into a proper lowlight part: the solid drain tubes were slit/dollied/welded and drilled out. The fender and door lips were the same approach - slit/bend/weld/dolly to proper contour. IIRC, I also lengthened the panel approx. 1/4" to get the right curvature on the fender arch. Finish with a guide coat and see how your surface looks.

As a first step, it may be better to flatten the panel before modification. I literally changed every dimension to get a good look/fit. You could also get an English wheel but you'll have to balance that purchase with how many times you'll actually use it. This part was very time consuming! 1957 lowlight Ghia


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SKS Stoneguard Instructions
Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 12:07 pm
Size: 651x810   Views: 5
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SKS Stoneguard Instructions
Exaktaphile
I had questions about prep for this product so here's instructions from the bottle. For the most part, it appears the undercoating process is up to the person doing the work. I'm surprised there isn't any indication to scuff the surface before application cause you sort of want to be certain it's going to stay where you put it. Wurth Stone Guard, underoating, schutz


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Wurth SKS Stoneguard
Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 12:04 pm
Size: 800x767   Views: 45
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Wurth SKS Stoneguard
Exaktaphile
A little package arrived today. The thread size of the bottle is approx. 41mm in case you want to shoot with a non-Wurth gun.

Quality-oriented factories use this on their automobiles for a very good reason. Save your pennies and buy good stuff gents! undercoating, schutz


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Mille Miglia
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 1:18 pm
Size: 1000x676   Views: 61
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Mille Miglia
Exaktaphile
Aerosilver Ghia at the 1958 Mille Miglia.


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After Blasting
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 12:55 pm
Size: 1000x694   Views: 31
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After Blasting
Exaktaphile
A guy took the shell to his shop and dustless blasted the undercarriage and engine compartment. He siphoned an anti-flash/desalt solution called HoldTight 102 into the water supply and it did a great job. The car was returned in about 3 hours and I started prep work for phosphating (removing dust but nothing like the mess from dry blasting). 1957 lowlight Ghia.


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Undercoating in Trunk
Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 11:37 am
Size: 926x800   Views: 37
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Undercoating in Trunk
Exaktaphile
The inner fender seam is sealed with a spray of schutz from the fuel tank to the end of the dash. It's pretty heavy between the dash and demister pipe. 1957 lowlight Ghia trout blue


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Brake Reservoir Shelf
Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2018 10:39 pm
Size: 1000x520   Views: 21
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Brake Reservoir Shelf
Exaktaphile
Ram dent on the edge of the reservoir shelf. While stripping paint, I found this little nugget that I'd never noticed. I realized that for years I'd been enamored by her stunning outer beauty and had overlooked her inner ugliness. I immediately scheduled her for therapy. 1957 lowlight Ghia


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Nose Ridge Replacement - 9
Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2018 9:20 pm
Size: 1000x750   Views: 45
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Nose Ridge Replacement - 9
Exaktaphile
Inside of nose after welding/painting nose brace. All welds were ground down on the inside to ease smoothing efforts.

This is the point where I decided it would take minimal filler to yield a good looking nose. There's still a few tool marks in the skin that couldn't be removed so they are now part of the cars history instead of an unsightly mess. Still have a bit of work on the bottom end of the nose ridge. 1957 lowlight Ghia


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Topcoating Seam Sealer
Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2018 1:36 am
Size: 700x1124   Views: 62
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Topcoating Seam Sealer
Exaktaphile
MS topcoat over seam sealer. 1957 lowlight Ghia headlight bucket, turn signal


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Topcoating Seam Sealer
Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2018 11:07 pm
Size: 700x821   Views: 31
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Topcoating Seam Sealer
Exaktaphile
MS topcoat over seam sealer. 1957 lowlight Ghia rear body mount


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Lowlight Heater Channel Graft - 19
Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2018 5:08 pm
Size: 1000x569   Views: 57
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Lowlight Heater Channel Graft - 19
Exaktaphile
Test fit of the rocker. It's sitting pretty well but you've heard the stories.. it needs work on the curvature. This topic is covered in numerous threads so I'm going to skip out.

This month I'm posting pics from the last couple years while I wait for seam sealer to cure. Times up! :-) 1957 Ghia


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Lowlight Heater Channel Graft - 18
Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2018 4:54 pm
Size: 1000x618   Views: 46
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Lowlight Heater Channel Graft - 18
Exaktaphile
Heater channel capped. Before welding, I painted the inner surface of the "cap" and it held up quite well under the heat. 1957 lowlight Ghia


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Lowlight Heater Channel Graft - 17
Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2018 4:40 pm
Size: 1000x633   Views: 40
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Lowlight Heater Channel Graft - 17
Exaktaphile
After cutting the metal covering the rear of the heater channel, it's time to prep and paint the jack point reinforcement from the inside. Get her real clean. 1957 lowlight Ghia


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Rear Body Mount Reinforcement
Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2018 6:30 am
Size: 935x800   Views: 30
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Rear Body Mount Reinforcement
Exaktaphile
The bead in the reinforcement plate at the torsion tube mount is rotted through. Along with the bottoms of the heater channel and the inner/upper area of the dash, this is virtually the only spot that was not topcoated by the factory! 1957 lowlight Ghia


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Screw Holes for Interior Light
Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2018 12:09 am
Size: 1000x750   Views: 21
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Screw Holes for Interior Light
Exaktaphile
Mounting bracket and holes for dome light and rear view mirror. 1957 lowlight Ghia


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VDO Wipe Wash Switch
Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2018 3:43 am
Size: 689x800   Views: 40
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VDO Wipe Wash Switch
Exaktaphile
This model uses bellows with an electric wipe when you press the switch. Pretty handy if you can find it with your foot. You can see a swatch of original bulkhead mat waiting for retrieval. 1957 lowlight Ghia


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Undercoating in Trunk
Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2018 3:34 am
Size: 800x759   Views: 31
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Undercoating in Trunk
Exaktaphile
The inner fender seam has a spray of schutz from the fuel tank to the end of the dash. It's pretty heavy between the dash and demister pipe. 1957 lowlight Ghia trout blue


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Lowlight Heater Channel Graft - 16
Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 12:20 am
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Lowlight Heater Channel Graft - 16
Exaktaphile
Weld a bead along the length of the reinforcement piece (where it passes through the divider) and then you're ready to remove the old metal covering the back end of the channel. This incomplete structure is very solid! 1957 lowlight Ghia


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Puddles
Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 12:12 am
Size: 1000x540   Views: 34
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Puddles
Exaktaphile
Rosettes were welded at the highest amperage (Eastwood 135) with an 1/8" stickout and low wire speed to penetrate all 3 layers.

On the back side, the wire sticks up a little bit in the center of each weld. I had a few welds with incomplete penetration (no stickout on back) so I drilled them from the back side and rewelded.

Eastwood now has a spotweld tip that does nothing more than hold the nozzle 1/8" from the weld surface, and prevents you from seeing the puddle. If you have steady hands and know how long 1/8" is, you can skip the Eastwood accessory. 1957 lowlight Ghia rocker panel, heater channel


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Brake Reservoir Shelf
Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 7:50 pm
Size: 1000x658   Views: 12
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Brake Reservoir Shelf
Exaktaphile
The small crimp on the front edge was pushed in 1/2" before I started. Lots of tapping to work the edge out because it's two layers of metal. I used a long socket as a dolly to smooth out the bead. This is about 75% finished in this pic. Later, I welded a short bead on top of the crimp and filed the edge.

People aren't kidding when they say "don't buy a car with a shelf dent" because you aren't going to fix it easily without taking the body off the pan. Luckily, I had so much rust it was necessary to take the body off. See how I turned that into lemonade? lol 1957 lowlight Ghia


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Nose Ridge Replacement - 7
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 8:11 pm
Size: 1000x1053   Views: 26
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Nose Ridge Replacement - 7
Exaktaphile
Templates on top of the stretched nose brace area. Most of these gentle rolling hills smooth out well with a bit of patience. Stubborn high spots that won't shrink out can be moved to low areas in any direction.

I let out an evil Dr. Frankenstein laugh after using a shrinking disc on the inside and seeing how much of the irregularity simply disappeared. Skew and tilt the disc on the inside to heat a wide swath of metal at one time. 1957 lowlight Ghia


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Nose Ridge Replacement - 6
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 2:41 pm
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Nose Ridge Replacement - 6
Exaktaphile
Using a template to check progress. Up high by the emblem is getting pretty close. Flip the template over and you can use it on the other side.

I made a handful of templates using thick matting board for different contours all over the car. Even though the body isn't covered with dents and gouges, it's had 60 years of road use, a nice crash, hippies sitting on fenders etc. Templates help to find irregularities that flexible longboards won't catch, especially the top/outer curves of the front fenders.

Spend some time studying the vintage ghia and period colour threads and see how very straight these bodies were, when new. 1957 lowlight Ghia


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Interior Light - Top
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 11:53 am
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Interior Light - Top
Exaktaphile
Top of dome light assembly. Three mounting screws - I seem to be missing one. 1957 lowlight Ghia


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Interior Light - Bottom
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 11:53 am
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Interior Light - Bottom
Exaktaphile
Bottom of dome light assembly. Three mounting screws - I seem to be missing one. 1957 lowlight Ghia


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Headlight Bucket Lip
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 2:01 am
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Headlight Bucket Lip
Exaktaphile
The headlight buckets were pushed in a bit and loaded with filler so I drilled them out and squared things back up. 1957 lowlight Ghia


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Nose Ridge Replacement - 5
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 1:45 am
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Nose Ridge Replacement - 5
Exaktaphile
After welding in the nose ridge, grind the welds flush on the inside of the nose and stretch them out with hammer/dolly. I sprayed the nose with machinists blue and started smoothing with vertical/horizontal templates/hammer/spoons/dolly/mallet/shrinking disc.

I started by stretching the welds and then consolidating small smooth areas into larger ones and then again into even larger areas... Looks like a mogul field. lol 1957 lowlight Ghia


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Fettling
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 1:24 am
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Fettling
Exaktaphile
Adjusting curvature and fit before welding. 1957 lowlight Ghia


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Butt Welding
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 1:11 am
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Butt Welding
Exaktaphile
I bought some of the HF butt weld clamps and they set a pretty wide gap. I took the center dividers out of the clamps and filed them down so they're the thickness of my wire and they worked great. .028" is pretty thin but these clamps are cheap so buy some extras in case you mess some up.

If you taper the end of the dividers so they're thinner than the surface that contacts the sheet metal, you'll have less problems with clamps getting stuck in the joint. This is one of Danny Gabbard's fender panels. 1957 lowlight Ghia


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Shell
Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 1:15 pm
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Shell
Exaktaphile
A nice day to get some sun. 1957 lowlight Ghia


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Undercoating
Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2018 12:41 pm
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Undercoating
Exaktaphile
Another view of original undercoating. Nowhere did I find evidence that old, cracked undercoating was responsible for rust. Rust that occurs with aged undercoating would point to faulty primer, seam sealing, poor prep, or a coating that has simply failed with age. Todays catalyzed paints and primers are rather superior to products of the 1950's. 1957 lowlight Ghia


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