Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2018 4:13 am Size: 1000x677 Views: 47 Rating: Not rated
It was a nice sprinkly day so I fired up the machine for some low-dust spraying. This is SPI Universal Clear. It's truly a universal product that can be used over most quality bases and single-stages, old and new. Easy to work with. 1957 lowlight Ghia forellenblau l330 trout blue View other images: From Exaktaphile In Ghia - Coupe Search Forums for photo
Posted: Wed Oct 24, 2018 12:27 am Size: 1000x750 Views: 76 Rating: Not rated
I got a good deal on a 6-stage turbine motor so I decided to check out the hvlp turbine craze. I built this one with variable speed and a 4-6 stage switch (see gallery). It will outperform all of the retail units on the market except maybe one.
I have to learn how to use the low pressure so I've been painting unseen areas to see what the differences are from compressor spraying (and, to get rid of a couple color samples I had mixed up). This is the first try at clear and it atomized very well without overreduction. lowlight 1957 Ghia trout blue l330 forellenblau View other images: From Exaktaphile In Ghia - Coupe Search Forums for photo
Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 8:30 am Size: 1000x835 Views: 70 Rating: Not rated
Turbine Time - 10 Exaktaphile
This is a test spot of Deltron 2000 DBC basecoat to check color. The turbine has no problem atomizing the product when mixed to spec. The lack of overspray was pretty unbelievable. I dialed-in a good spray pattern and then varied the pressure a little to nearly eliminate the overspray. I sprayed slightly wet coats so the flake will lay down. hvlp turbine View other images: From Exaktaphile In Parts/Accessories - Tools Search Forums for photo
Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2018 5:29 am Size: 800x541 Views: 29 Rating: Not rated
Turbine Time - 9 Exaktaphile
When I attach the gun directly to the turbine outlet (no hose), I get a solid 6psi flow pressure through the air pressure fitting. This isn't the perfect place to catch pressure but at least it's inside the gun. 6psi is about the max you'll get out of this gun with a single turbine because the 7500/7700 is a conversion gun (needs 22psi to get 10 at the cap).
With a 50 foot hose, 6-stage turbine, Apollo 7700 gun (everything adjusted wide open), and 1mm needle/B cap, I have fully adjustable flow pressure from .5-5psi at the air pressure fitting. Hopefully the cap pressure is in the same range or higher. The difference between high and low speeds hovers around 2psi.
The pressure increases when I adjust the overspray control below its recommended setting and also when I narrow the fan. At the smallest fan setting and trimming the air, I can get 9 psi in the gun. I might make a cap pressure gauge to see what's going on up front but a lot can be inferred from the chart for compressed air use.
If you want to shoot this gun to its full potential, there's no such thing as having "more stages than you need". At 2psi per stage, you'll "need" an 11-stage turbine to shoot get a 10psi cap pressure.
About turbine unit pressures - retail turbines market their maximum pressure as a "sealed pressure". Sealed pressure is taken off the capped end of the motor with no hose or gun. You might get half that when you add the required parts to actually spray paint. View other images: From Exaktaphile In Parts/Accessories - Tools Search Forums for photo
Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 11:06 pm Size: 800x600 Views: 21 Rating: Not rated
Turbine Time - 8 Exaktaphile
One of the reasons I got a 50-foot hose was to try coiling part of the hose in a bucket and still have a good length for painting. It appears turbines heat constantly rises as you spray so I want to stabilize the temp. or at least knock a few degrees off the top.
I coiled 10 feet of hose, 3 feet from the turbine. The bucket has 8-10 inches of cold tap water that's 70F.
The 3 foot straight run of hose gives the hottest air molecules room to disperse in the air stream. Apparently, some of these hoses can melt without a short straight run in the hose. The hose coils easily into a 5-gallon bucket.
Let's think about what the air in the hose does when you're actually spraying paint. The pressurized air in the hose starts and stops repeatedly, moving a little every time you pull the gun trigger. With the water coil, blocks of air stop, get cooled, and then move on down the line. This will work if you're a painter who starts the trigger with each direction change. If you hold the trigger down constantly when you spray, this won't work, as the air won't have time to stop and get cooled. However, we do have 40 more feet of hose - the longer your hose, the lower your gun pressure will be.
This worked so well, I thought my thermometer was broken. After 1/2 hour on high speed with repeated blocking/unblocking the hose, the air at the gun fitting was 72F. My last test at low speed with no cooler was 105F at the same fitting. Looks like we can tune air temps by adding warmer or cooler water. The main thing I'm after is a stable output temp.
My next idea was an aftercooler with a fan (probably a better idea). The advantage of air cooling is something you guys already know.
Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2018 1:33 pm Size: 800x976 Views: 36 Rating: Not rated
Turbine Time - 7 Exaktaphile
I bought a 50 foot Tuff-Guard garden hose that's been recommended on other sites because it fits the specs for a turbine and is half the price.
I don't have a gun yet so I'm replicating the pressure changes of spraying by covering/uncovering the end of the hose at intervals one might use when shooting. The motor is set on the low speed (4-stage).
After 30 minutes of "spraying" and "dwelling", the hose fitting at the box is too hot to handle comfortably and the hose is getting warmer and warmer. Also, I'm getting 170f out of the air bleeder tube when I stick the thermometer in the tube. The 170f may be a false reading and is actually heat off the tube/casting.
I went through some manuals and it's clear most mfrs. are using the air hose as a heat exchanger (more like heat absorber). Hose isn't a great heat conductor so this explains mfrs. who make insulated guns so your hand doesn't get hot. I wonder how hot the sheet metal boxes of those units are getting. I noticed the 6-stage Capspray 115 is housed in plastic.
Speaking of hot air. Advertisements and users say these blow warm, dry air. The turbine heat magically eradicates water from the air! How does it do this in a relatively closed system? Does the turbine split the water molecules and convert them back into hydrogen and oxygen gas? Meteorological fact; hot air holds more water than cool air.
When I first installed the new hose and turned on the machine, I had a few drops of condensation at the gun end. After things heated up, it evaporated out the open end of the hose. Warm your machine up and spray some air before adding paint!
More things to consider. If we cool the air, the output temp needs to stay above the dew point or the air may dump it's water inside the hose. Perhaps it will be better to stay on the warm side to ensure the humidity stays put? I've never seen any complaints of blush problems... Next, I'll try the easiest method of cooling - coiled hose in a bucket of water. View other images: From Exaktaphile In Parts/Accessories - Tools Search Forums for photo
Posted: Sun Jul 29, 2018 9:14 pm Size: 800x673 Views: 42 Rating: Not rated
Turbine Time - 6 Exaktaphile
Everyone says the air from turbines is "hot" or "warm". Nobody posts any temps for neophytes. No surprise that people are skittish about hvlp turbines when there's a lack of details. Most people considering a turbine unit kind of want to know exactitactly what to expect.
Out of curiosity, I ran the (6 stage) motor for 1/2 hour at high speed, with no air filter or hose. Nothing fancy, just holding a meat thermometer in the air stream. The temp (one inch from air hose fitting) went from an ambient 70f to 115f in a couple minutes and stayed there until I switched to the low speed whereupon the temp dropped to 105f. When I turned the variable speed all the way down the temp dropped to 90f on the low setting. There you have it - first time on the internet - temps off a turbine. lol Let's see how the numbers climb after I buy a hose/gun and have a pressurized system. hvlp
Turbine Time - 5 Exaktaphile
I used a Claude's Buggies filter that was on the car when I got it. The switches are on/off, variable speed, and high/low. All the parameters of spraying are now adjustable. hvlp turbine
The motor came pre-wired for two speeds (hi/low). Hi=19.3krpm, Low=17.3krpm - one company says hi=6-stage, low=4-stage.
Turbine Time - 4 Exaktaphile
I may have gone a little overboard drilling vent holes on the end near the cooling fan intake. After everything is finished, I'll run the motor for 1/2 hour and see what the temperatures look like. Some instruction books indicate the hose fitting can burn you after a brief period of operation.
The turbine housing is metal so I'm already thinking about wrapping it in insulation or shrouding the.. ah heck, you aircooler's know what's going down. The other idea is a heat exchanger between the box and the hose. I'll wait on that until I do some test runs. hvlp turbine
Ametek has a page with part numbers of motors intended for hvlp. I included their listed 110's plus a couple others below. 110v Ametek/Lamb motors I had on the shopping/pricing list:
Turbine Time - 3 Exaktaphile
The cooling fan on the motor reduces the threat of hot turbine air but there's still a problem to consider. The main casting is a giant heat sink (aluminum) and the cooling fan blows the hot air onto the casting. One of the patents on this motor indicates they started using the metal casting to reduce turbine noise.
Bleeder at yellow arrow. The bleeder is a constant air leak in the system to give pressure/heat relief when you aren't pulling the trigger on the gun. The exploded drawings of a couple hvlp turbine makers show a 1/8-27 NPT hose barb with a plastic hose installed here. It's vented to the atmosphere through a cooling vent on the box. Apollo says their first turbine with bleeder was mfd. in 2007.
Early and/or Low powered turbines don't seem to have bleeders, likely because the air pressure is already pretty low. A constant bleed off the system could ruin the ability to atomize the paint. Thus the invention of the bleeder gun. hvlp turbine View other images: From Exaktaphile In Parts/Accessories - Tools Search Forums for photo
Turbine Time - 2 Exaktaphile
The wooden box will be nearly a 10 inch cube. Parts used in these pics:
3 - 1/4 x 5" bolts with washers/nuts. Snug them up until the gasket seats well but don't overtighten and collapse the turbine housing.
3 - 3.5" pieces of 3/16" PVC for spacers. Adjust length according to your motor/gasket thickness.
1 - piece of an old electrostatic computer mat for the gasket between wood and fan. Anything will work but be sure the fan doesn't suck air from inside the box.
1 - 1 1/4" PVC coupler for air intake, epoxied into a 2" bore in the wood. The I.D. of this size coupler is a little bigger than the fan intake.
Posted: Fri Jul 20, 2018 1:07 am Size: 556x722 Views: 29 Rating: Not rated
Turbine Time - 1 Exaktaphile
Let's do something with a 6-stage vacuum motor. I've got some painting in the near future. :-)
It's amazing how little info there is on hvlp turbine units. Makers seem to have optimized guns to whatever stage motor was available at the time. For low powered machines, this has created the opposite universe of reducing/thinning paint before you can see the "normal" coating. Thinning/reducing is not a big deal but some paints do look better without modifiers.
Totally Wurth It Exaktaphile
I shot 6 liters and have an average thickness of 50-60mils (1/16", 1.27mm).
First coat - 3 liters for coverage.
Second coat - one hour flash time and then 2 liters to build up previous coat. The first two coats had nice texture but were smoother than factory.
Third coat - to experiment with textures and "find"a nice finish. I fogged (drop coat) most of the last liter after 18 hours flash time onto a still-tacky gooey surface. This coat formed primarily on top of the 2nd, instead of melting into the previous coats. This looks far better. Since I only had one liter, I concentrated on the more visible areas first and then worked my way out.
Looks like giving a good period of time between coats for solvent evaporation can help attain a high-relief texture. "Flash time" of course, depends on temperature and humidity. Karmann certainly used more product than 6 liters.
Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2018 10:23 am Size: 1000x750 Views: 48 Rating: Not rated
Soylent Green is People Exaktaphile
I seal my driveway every two years and can tell you the Wurth product looks, smells, and behaves (in liquid pudding form) like the stuff I squeegee onto the asphalt! I use Latex-ite Airport Grade from Home Depot. That doesn't guarantee it'll work on a car but maybe someone will do some experimenting cause it's like $30 for a 5 gallon bucket.
If I was doing a penny pincher resto, I'd spray a fender with Latex-ite, seal the heck out of it and see how it wears. 1957 lowlight Ghia schutz undercoating wurth View other images: From Exaktaphile In Ghia - Coupe Search Forums for photo
Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2018 5:31 am Size: 788x800 Views: 33 Rating: Not rated
Covert Seam Sealing Exaktaphile
Schutzing the long seams in the luggage compartment. These applications are mostly cosmetic, as there is already a quality seam sealer underneath.
Don't spray the seams until after you've finished the bottom of the car. The gained experience will assist you in knowing how to control the spray. 1957 lowlight Ghia sks, undercoat, underseal, wurth, stone guard, stoneguard View other images: From Exaktaphile In Ghia - Coupe Search Forums for photo
Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2018 3:58 pm Size: 1000x750 Views: 23 Rating: Not rated
I was on the last few ounces of undercoat and realized I'd forgotten my trunk seams so I hurriedly shot them without a shield (oops!). Stray dots of fine overspray from the water-based Wurth material clean up easily with a damp sponge. 1957 lowlight Ghia SKS undercoating, underseal, schutz View other images: From Exaktaphile In Ghia - Coupe Search Forums for photo
Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 3:53 pm Size: 591x1000 Views: 99 Rating: Not rated
Masking for Undercoating Exaktaphile
Masking grommet holes, harness tabs and places where washers, clips and rubber need to seat well. 1957 lowlight Ghia
At the top you can see a golf ball-sized blob of dum dum putty pressed into place by a dedicated factory employee. I left it in place cause it's pretty cool. grommets, door pillar seal, mud sill, gravel shield, harness tabs, underseal, schutz View other images: From Exaktaphile In Ghia - Coupe Search Forums for photo
Posted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 4:46 am Size: 789x603 Views: 26 Rating: Not rated
Original Door Undercoating Exaktaphile
Original undercoating on door. Factory undercoating texture seems to vary quite a bit when you go through peoples pictures. The guy who shot my car did a real nice job but it was probably Monday morning. By Friday afternoon, he'd be talking to his pals, moving the gun unevenly, and there'd be massive runs all over the place. 1957 lowlight Ghia texture schutz underseal View other images: From Exaktaphile In Ghia - Coupe Search Forums for photo
Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 8:27 am Size: 1000x460 Views: 42 Rating: Not rated
Rear Fender, Lower Front Exaktaphile
It was necessary to modify a late KG part into a proper lowlight part: the solid drain tubes were slit/dollied/welded and drilled out. The fender and door lips were the same approach - slit/bend/weld/dolly to proper contour. IIRC, I also lengthened the panel approx. 1/4" to get the right curvature on the fender arch. Finish with a guide coat and see how your surface looks.
As a first step, it may be better to flatten the panel before modification. I literally changed every dimension to get a good look/fit. You could also get an English wheel but you'll have to balance that purchase with how many times you'll actually use it. This part was very time consuming! 1957 lowlight Ghia View other images: From Exaktaphile In Ghia - Coupe Search Forums for photo
Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 12:07 pm Size: 651x810 Views: 19 Rating: Not rated
SKS Stoneguard Instructions Exaktaphile
I had questions about prep for this product so here's instructions from the bottle. For the most part, it appears the undercoating process is up to the person doing the work. I'm surprised there isn't any indication to scuff the surface before application cause you sort of want to be certain it's going to stay where you put it. Wurth Stone Guard, underoating, schutz View other images: From Exaktaphile In Ghia - Coupe Search Forums for photo
Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 12:04 pm Size: 800x767 Views: 197 Rating: Not rated
Wurth SKS Stoneguard Exaktaphile
A little package arrived today. The thread size of the bottle is approx. 41mm in case you want to shoot with a non-Wurth gun.
Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 12:55 pm Size: 1000x694 Views: 47 Rating: Not rated
After Blasting Exaktaphile
A guy took the shell to his shop and dustless blasted the undercarriage and engine compartment. He siphoned an anti-flash/desalt solution called HoldTight 102 into the water supply and it did a great job. The car was returned in about 3 hours and I started prep work for phosphating (removing dust but nothing like the mess from dry blasting). 1957 lowlight Ghia. View other images: From Exaktaphile In Ghia - Coupe Search Forums for photo
Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2018 11:37 am Size: 926x800 Views: 58 Rating: Not rated
Undercoating in Trunk Exaktaphile
The inner fender seam is sealed with a spray of schutz from the fuel tank to the end of the dash. It's pretty heavy between the dash and demister pipe. 1957 lowlight Ghia trout blue View other images: From Exaktaphile In Ghia - Coupe Search Forums for photo
Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2018 10:39 pm Size: 1000x520 Views: 42 Rating: Not rated
Brake Reservoir Shelf Exaktaphile
Ram dent on the edge of the reservoir shelf. While stripping paint, I found this little nugget that I'd never noticed. I realized that for years I'd been enamored by her stunning outer beauty and had overlooked her inner ugliness. I immediately scheduled her for therapy. 1957 lowlight Ghia View other images: From Exaktaphile In Ghia - Coupe Search Forums for photo
Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2018 9:20 pm Size: 1000x750 Views: 71 Rating: Not rated
Nose Ridge Replacement - 9 Exaktaphile
Inside of nose after welding/painting nose brace. All welds were ground down on the inside to ease smoothing efforts.
This is the point where I decided it would take minimal filler to yield a good looking nose. There's still a few tool marks in the skin that couldn't be removed so they are now part of the cars history instead of an unsightly mess. Still have a bit of work on the bottom end of the nose ridge. 1957 lowlight Ghia View other images: From Exaktaphile In Ghia - Coupe Search Forums for photo
Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2018 1:36 am Size: 700x1124 Views: 89 Rating: Not rated
Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2018 5:08 pm Size: 1000x569 Views: 102 Rating: Not rated
Lowlight Heater Channel Graft - 19 Exaktaphile
Test fit of the rocker. It's sitting pretty well but you've heard the stories.. it needs work on the curvature. This topic is covered in numerous threads so I'm going to skip out.
Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2018 4:40 pm Size: 1000x633 Views: 69 Rating: Not rated
Lowlight Heater Channel Graft - 17 Exaktaphile
After cutting the metal covering the rear of the heater channel, it's time to prep and paint the jack point reinforcement from the inside. Get her real clean. 1957 lowlight Ghia View other images: From Exaktaphile In Ghia - Coupe Search Forums for photo
Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2018 6:30 am Size: 935x800 Views: 49 Rating: Not rated
Rear Body Mount Reinforcement Exaktaphile
The bead in the reinforcement plate at the torsion tube mount is rotted through. Along with the bottoms of the heater channel and the inner/upper area of the dash, this is virtually the only spot that was not topcoated by the factory! 1957 lowlight Ghia View other images: From Exaktaphile In Ghia - Coupe Search Forums for photo
Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2018 12:09 am Size: 1000x750 Views: 35 Rating: Not rated
Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 12:20 am Size: 1000x624 Views: 32 Rating: Not rated
Lowlight Heater Channel Graft - 16 Exaktaphile
Weld a bead along the length of the reinforcement piece (where it passes through the divider) and then you're ready to remove the old metal covering the back end of the channel. This incomplete structure is very solid! 1957 lowlight Ghia View other images: From Exaktaphile In Ghia - Coupe Search Forums for photo
Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 12:12 am Size: 1000x540 Views: 64 Rating: Not rated
Rosettes were welded at the highest amperage (Eastwood 135) with an 1/8" stickout and low wire speed to penetrate all 3 layers.
On the back side, the wire sticks up a little bit in the center of each weld. I had a few welds with incomplete penetration (no stickout on back) so I drilled them from the back side and rewelded.
Eastwood now has a spotweld tip that does nothing more than hold the nozzle 1/8" from the weld surface, and prevents you from seeing the puddle. If you have steady hands and know how long 1/8" is, you can skip the Eastwood accessory. 1957 lowlight Ghia rocker panel, heater channel View other images: From Exaktaphile In Ghia - Coupe Search Forums for photo
Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 7:50 pm Size: 1000x658 Views: 25 Rating: Not rated
Brake Reservoir Shelf Exaktaphile
The small crimp on the front edge was pushed in 1/2" before I started. Lots of tapping to work the edge out because it's two layers of metal. I used a long socket as a dolly to smooth out the bead. This is about 75% finished in this pic. Later, I welded a short bead on top of the crimp and filed the edge.
People aren't kidding when they say "don't buy a car with a shelf dent" because you aren't going to fix it easily without taking the body off the pan. Luckily, I had so much rust it was necessary to take the body off. See how I turned that into lemonade? 1957 lowlight Ghia View other images: From Exaktaphile In Ghia - Coupe Search Forums for photo
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 8:11 pm Size: 1000x1053 Views: 46 Rating: Not rated
Nose Ridge Replacement - 7 Exaktaphile
Templates on top of the stretched nose brace area. Most of these gentle rolling hills smooth out well with a bit of patience. Stubborn high spots that won't shrink out can be moved to low areas in any direction.
I let out an evil Dr. Frankenstein laugh after using a shrinking disc on the inside and seeing how much of the irregularity simply disappeared. Skew and tilt the disc on the inside to heat a wide swath of metal at one time. 1957 lowlight Ghia View other images: From Exaktaphile In Ghia - Coupe Search Forums for photo
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 2:41 pm Size: 1000x750 Views: 38 Rating: Not rated
Nose Ridge Replacement - 6 Exaktaphile
Using a template to check progress. Up high by the emblem is getting pretty close. Flip the template over and you can use it on the other side.
I made a handful of templates using thick matting board for different contours all over the car. Even though the body isn't covered with dents and gouges, it's had 60 years of road use, a nice crash, hippies sitting on fenders etc. Templates help to find irregularities that flexible longboards won't catch, especially the top/outer curves of the front fenders.
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 1:45 am Size: 1000x549 Views: 44 Rating: Not rated
Nose Ridge Replacement - 5 Exaktaphile
After welding in the nose ridge, grind the welds flush on the inside of the nose and stretch them out with hammer/dolly. I sprayed the nose with machinists blue and started smoothing with vertical/horizontal templates/hammer/spoons/dolly/mallet/shrinking disc. Looks like a mogul field. 1957 lowlight Ghia View other images: From Exaktaphile In Ghia - Coupe Search Forums for photo
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 1:24 am Size: 705x800 Views: 54 Rating: Not rated
Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 1:11 am Size: 800x681 Views: 76 Rating: Not rated
Butt Welding Exaktaphile
I bought some of the HF butt weld clamps and they set a pretty wide gap. I took the center dividers out of the clamps and filed them down so they're the thickness of my wire and they worked great. .028" is pretty thin but these clamps are cheap so buy some extras in case you mess some up.
If you taper the end of the dividers so they're thinner than the weld gap, you'll have less problems with clamps getting stuck in the joint. This is one of Danny Gabbard's fender panels. 1957 lowlight Ghia View other images: From Exaktaphile In Ghia - Coupe Search Forums for photo