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Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 5:43 pm
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fuel tank
steponmebbbboom
this tank was boiled out and lined with damon redkoat by a vendor of mine, gratis. proper surface preparation is essential with redkoat, being latex it will flake off in a few years if the tank is not properly cleaned. also shown are the spigot and filter screen, which must be removed in advance. if your filter is loading up with silt regularly, odds are the screen is missing or punctured, luckily it is available new. care must be taken when removing it, if it rips out and falls into the tank it can be difficult to remove. also remove the felt pads and styrofoam outlet surround so they can be reaffixed before reinstallation.
expect to pay around $100 to have this service done, well worth the saved hassle of doing it yourself, likely improperly at that, and without a performance guarantee.
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Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 2:25 pm
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fuel sender
steponmebbbboom
shown is an early bay sender with the outer cover removed. the thin wire is actually a loop of resistive wire and the float has sliding contacts to bridge the gap between the two legs. in doing so it varies the resistance of the loop. the more wire between it and the top flange, the more the resistance. if your bus has been sitting for an extended period and the sender no longer works, the center shaft may be covered with gum or varnish deposits, and this may be all it needs. when finished ensure that the float will drop to the bottom of its own weight when released from the top and there are no tight spots. carb cleaner should suffice.
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Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 8:03 pm
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shifter
steponmebbbboom
yes, they can be fully disassembled for cleaning/lubrication. remove the shifter knob, slide the bracket up and over, and unwind the spring from the bottom. if the shifter boot has been cracked or missing for any length of time, or the splash pan went missing, it is essential to get the ball joint cleaned and lubricated, and this is the only way to do it. the pin and spring have to be there, undamaged, and moving freely. do not use heat to free the pin or youll bugger the spring.
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Posted: Tue Apr 03, 2007 7:58 pm
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frankenwiring
steponmebbbboom
less daunting? more so? all the main harness wires have been traced and labelled as to origin/destination. there are a few problems. there are important differences between the fuse panel, headlamp switch, turn signal switch, and hazard flasher switch between years, some are a one-year only item and all are meant to work together as one assembly. terminals were added/deleted each year. when hunting for electrical parts such as these you need to know what year bus the item is from. having the proper part number is essential if rifling through a box of parts. got funny electrical problems on your bus? check part numbers on your switches.
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Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 6:48 pm
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lock tumbler secrets revealed, part IX
steponmebbbboom
I have carefully singled out the wafers that sit proud and compared their profile against the spare wafers from the other lock, and tried each of them until i found one that sit flush with the key slid home. i repeated this process until all wafers sat flush. this is the end result. after cleaning and lubricating the tumbler bore, the tumbler barrel is now ready to be slid back into place with the key inserted, and reassembled. you may now throw that extra key into the garbage. because you did it, all by yourself.
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Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 6:47 pm
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lock tumbler secrets revealed, part VII
steponmebbbboom
if the end cap and key door are damaged, it is also possible to replace them. use a jewellers screwdriver and a vise with brass jaws to hold in place while you pry away the four staking positions. wrap the cap witha rag and use pliers to slide the cap off. the door may or may not be staked in place, use a jewellers screwdriver to pry the recesses back to free the pivot shaft.
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Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 6:46 pm
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lock tumbler secrets revealed, part VI
steponmebbbboom
the parts tumbler. the wafers are not set in order but it is strongly suggested you do so if over half of your wafers line up with the key fully inserted. take this opportunity to clean the wafers, the springs, and the tumbler thoroughly. i suggest lubricating all parts with boeshield T-9 wax. if any springs are collapsed, broken or worn, replace them now.
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Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 6:45 pm
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lock tumbler secrets revealed, part IV
steponmebbbboom
if you have an R profile lock with the wafers staked in place, you can remove them by taking a jewellers screwdriver that fits snugly in the spring bore and turn it to break the stake. you can then force the wafer out from the back side. take this opportunity to remove the spring and inspect and clean as required. use the spare tumbler for parts.
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Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 6:44 pm
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lock tumbler secrets revealed, part III
steponmebbbboom
with my ignition key inserted you can see that a few of the lock wafers are sitting proud of the tumbler barrel, this is why using the wrong key wont turn the lock. ideally, all the wafers will be sitting flush on both sides with the proper key inserted.
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Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 6:43 pm
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lock tumbler secrets revealed, part II
steponmebbbboom
now push the tumbler out of the handle. this is an R profile lock i am using for parts, and the wafers are staked in place. if this were an L profile lock i would be doing this with the key inserted as the wafers would fly out of the lock otherwise.
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Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2007 6:40 pm
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lock tumbler secrets revealed, part I
steponmebbbboom
rekeying a lock to match the ignition key. first you need to be sure that your handle locks are the same profile (L or R) as your ignition key, L is early and R is late. Aftermarket ignition tumblers that sit proud of the column pedestal are completely different and will not work with the doors. here we have an L profile tumbler on a rebuildable handle. generally the R profile locks are used on handles that have triggers staked in place and do not have a setscrew to remove them. this one does. Note the orientation of the return spring, you will need to know this at reassembly time. if you install it upside down it will bend and get ruined.
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Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2007 2:51 pm
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for birdibus
steponmebbbboom
i remember you asking about it. the latch is just a spring loaded steel tab, which was probably pulled on a little too enthusiastically one day, either by a child or a drunk adult. same difference. yes, i removed the pieces and yes, theyre yours if you want them.
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Posted: Sat Mar 31, 2007 2:45 pm
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on second thought
steponmebbbboom
maybe i'll just use this. '72 fuse panel and harness picked up at Brad's Bugs north of toronto along with some other much needed goodies. also pictured is a sunroof panel i will adapt to the roof opening, maybe to hinge from the side like a split bus subhatch or something.
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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 7:35 pm
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dash removal
steponmebbbboom
'74 pictured. when removing a dash i prefer to leave all switches, ignition cluster, and as much wiring as possible with the bus, and remove the screws around the windshield, the two or three pinched in the doors, the two bolts under the steering column pedestal and the two under the handbrake handle. remove the two screws securing the heater control bellcranks, and the entire dash then lifts up and out in short order. you are then free to do any electrical diagnosis and patching unencumbered. disconnect the battery first.
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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 7:30 pm
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column differences
steponmebbbboom
'68-69 pedestal support bracket on left, '70-up bracket on right. note the bracket on the left was modified to adapt a '68-69 column pedestal to a '71 front clip and dash: the bolt pattern for the early pedestal is slightly different. there is one attaching bolt at the top and two bolts at the dash close to the center, the wing bracket was added.
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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 7:26 pm
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column differences
steponmebbbboom
68-69 on the left, '70-? on the right. these cannot be interchanged if you want the optional steering lock to function. luckily my early pedestal has no lock so we are fine. you will still need the insulating collar.
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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 7:19 pm
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column removal
steponmebbbboom
i wanted to replace this clapped out wheel anyway. thanks for the memories.
note the four pound sledge in the bg. it is now a simple task of removing four capscrews holding the pedestal to the support bracket, and unhooking the wires for the signal switch, and the ignition switch. pull the column straight up and out.
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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 7:18 pm
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column removal
steponmebbbboom
here i am holding a 1" diameter brass drift over the top of the column shaft and preparing to clobber it with a four pound sledge. note the position of my knees: i have removed the seat and am squatting on the seat pedestal. i am leaning back with all my weight being brought to bear on the wheel in an upward direction. as i compress the column shaft the wheel will be forced upward against the nut. listen for a different tone when you strike the shaft. wiggle the wheel if you are not sure. get that hammer right over your head and bring it down full force. three or four blows will do it.
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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 7:03 pm
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spookypatrolWHOOPS part IX
steponmebbbboom
ah, i get it.
wait, wasnt this the same hole i was looking at [i]before[/i] i started breaking things? the block and the lever didnt violently spring apart, i didnt even have to pry the cover off? i dummied my pedestal all to ratshit for nothing???
well no, not for nothing. i just taught you something that isnt in the bentley, or the spooky site, nowhere i know of. so now you know.
youre welcome.
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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 6:48 pm
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spookypatrolWHOOPS part I
steponmebbbboom
for as long as i can remember people that have asked how to remove their ignition tumbler have always been referred to the specialpatrolgroup site, more precisely this page:
http://www.specialpatrolgroup.co.uk/spooky/barrel/barrel.html
unfortunately the site makes no mention of the fact that the design of the switch they are working on is a 71 only design, as i am soon to discover. after futzing around for twenty minutes trying to find this damn hole, i soon conclude they have made an omission, and as i am wont to do when i have the wrong information and am generally cranky, i break shit.
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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 6:42 pm
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door latch lubrication
steponmebbbboom
the original grease gets sticky and gummy over time, use brake cleaner to remove it and wash fuzz and fur from the latch. i prefer Boeshield T-9 wax for this task, it is paraffin based and is thin enough to penetrate all cracks and crevices, then dries. thus dirt and fur does not stick to it. it also is very resistant to water washout. it is commonly used in aerospace applications and bicycle chains. get it at the local hobby airstrip, a bike shop, or Lee Valley tools in canada. they are also available from mail-order
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