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Mon Mar 28, 2005 8:16 pm

Hey Rusty, how did the install go, hope you didnt have any problems... looking forward to the pic's

Mon Mar 28, 2005 10:10 pm

Sorry, I did not get it all done this weekend. I gave myself a cut off time of 6:30 p.m Saturday night. By that time, i had about 75% of the motor built-up. If i don't set a time to stop working on my car, i'll spend 12 hours or more in the garage. I have three little kids and a wife that look forward to spending time on the weekends with me.
So, i'll finish the built up either tomorrow or the next day, and do the bellhousing grind then too. As promised, i'll post pics. The pics i have right now are from the new engine seal/tar boards, etc... I Painted the shroud to match the car too. I'm having a little trouble with the two small pieces of tin that go below and behind the large pulley tin. The exhaust seems to be in the way. I'll post pics tomorrow or the next day. Stay tuned.

Tue Mar 29, 2005 3:45 am

yea need to spend time with the family or youll have to hear the shit i had to with the EX wife you spend to much time on the car blah blah blah, but she sure loved driving it. later

Sat Apr 02, 2005 5:26 pm

Well, I put in a couple hours today on the wife's car. I'm about 90% done with the engine built. I only have a few things left over after the motor is in. I also got the bell house clearancing done. I'll explain as I go.

First, get yourself some eye protection and something to prevent you from inhaling the dust you're gona create during the grinding. I used these two.

Next, get some sort of tool to facilitate the grinding. Sanding would take you too long, so power tools are a good idea. I like the air cut off tool the best. It makes short work of the project. Although, if you're careful, you can use the grinder. Or better yet, if you have all the time and patience in the world, use a dremel or something similar like the one pictured in the middle.

I made a template of the 12 Volt flywheel out of cardboard. This makes it a lot easier than having to keep removing the engine and taking off a little bit more at a time.

This is what i do with the templete to check clearence.

You have to grind the area around the mounting bolts, but be careful not to cut into the bolt tunnel.

There are a few other areas to grind down besides the bolt areas. Here are a few, but check with your particular flywheel or templete.

There will be a lot of dust, so remember to clean the area off. And change the throw out bearing while in there.

This is as far as i got today. I forgot to install the new tar paper on the firewall, so that will be done tomorrow. I had no help today, so getting the engine in there and into the tranny shaft was a pain. Get a friend to help out with that part. I just wanted to prove to myself that i can do all of it myself. At least this time around anyway.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you need any other pics or explanations. Good luck.

Sat Apr 02, 2005 9:20 pm

grind deeper :wink:

Sat Apr 02, 2005 9:52 pm

Thanks Rusty im sure that will help.
Bill why grind deeper?

Sun Apr 03, 2005 11:11 am

I did, i took another measurement of the flywheel and engine. I had to go in about 1 1/2 inch at least. The pictures are just to point out some of the places the grinding will be performed at. I wonder if the transmission mount bolts will rub the flywheel. Any idea? I'd hate to chew up a flywheel on those bolts.

Sun Apr 03, 2005 7:10 pm

Thanks Rusty, I dont know if those bolts will be in the way alot of folks are saying you just have to clearance the bell housing and they never mentioned any thing about the tranny mount bolts??? hopefully they are far enough back they arent in the way.

Thu Jan 25, 2007 3:09 pm

rusty57 wrote: I had no help today, so getting the engine in there and into the tranny shaft was a pain. Get a friend to help out with that part. I just wanted to prove to myself that i can do all of it myself. At least this time around anyway.

Wow? Really? I was able to do this at 18yo (16 years ago!) by myself. I was able to drop the motor, tighten the gland nut, back up & in there with time to eat lunch without rushing. ;) Keep practicing then! :)

Thanks for the tutorial on the grinding. I believe I'm going to have to do that soon as well.

Thu Jan 25, 2007 9:18 pm

Will a 12v starter work with 180mm ring gear in a 63 swingaxle?

Fri Jan 26, 2007 7:51 am

Lee. wrote: Will a 12v starter work with 180mm ring gear in a 63 swingaxle?

No, the ring gear on a 6V 180mm flywheel will not index with the gear on a 12V starter.

Fri Jan 26, 2007 8:29 am

We should all post up helpful links for the 6V to 12V conversion so we can get a sticky made for this often discussed subject. Here's one

http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/htm/6v_12v.htm

http://www.1800vw.com has some helpful electrical tips as well.

Sat Mar 10, 2007 2:09 pm

I know this topic has been beaten to death but I have a couple more questions that I did not see covered. Yes I did search for about an hour.

I am switching my generator out for an alternator on my 1500SP.
As far as the engine itself goes, I know I have to change the generator stand. But I see the kits, and they have different backing plates and spacers. Are those needed? Also I have seen different fuel pumps for cars with alternators. My fuel pump has one fitting to the side, one going out the top, but it doesnt look like it will interfere with the alternator, its a few inches away. Do I need the special fuel pump, and alternator backing plate? Or can I just use the ones I already have? I have done this conversion before but its been almost 10 years. TIA.

Sat Mar 10, 2007 9:12 pm

Your old generator backing plate will need to be replaced. The alternator kit should come with the new one. I just did my 62 and did not change the fuel pump at all. You have to try the shims on the new alternator pulley to see how many you will need.

Sat Mar 10, 2007 10:35 pm

Has anyone tried to bolt up the motor and spin it free hand to make the flywheel fit? then take it out and clean it up.... I was told this is a good way as well??? Any thoughts?

Sat Mar 10, 2007 10:45 pm

61bug wrote: Has anyone tried to bolt up the motor and spin it free hand to make the flywheel fit? then take it out and clean it up.... I was told this is a good way as well??? Any thoughts?

You won't be able to bolt it in. It has to be ground out first.

Wed Nov 28, 2007 11:58 pm

Lee. wrote: 61bug wrote: Has anyone tried to bolt up the motor and spin it free hand to make the flywheel fit? then take it out and clean it up.... I was told this is a good way as well??? Any thoughts?

You won't be able to bolt it in. It has to be ground out first.

He's right it won't work, even with a small amount of grinding to let the flywheel sit on the input shaft. I did that and slid a flywheel onto the shaft. I thought I could push the car back and fort in gear and use the flywheel to cut away the bell housing. The car would barely move, it locked up more often than roll free. I basically it just skid across the driveway. I'm sure if you had a couple of buddies that could rock the car back and forth, it might cut away the metal. My was only a rolling shell, too.

Thu Nov 29, 2007 9:12 am

rusty57 wrote: Your old generator backing plate will need to be replaced. The alternator kit should come with the new one. I just did my 62 and did not change the fuel pump at all. You have to try the shims on the new alternator pulley to see how many you will need.

Well if you buy an alternator can you still use the squirrel cage. Of course for example my 02 Ram the alternator on it only has the shaft out the front not the rear like the generator.

So how exactly does the alternator work? Will you not be able to generate any heat? Also are you almost better off buying a conversion kit for your 6 volt generator to convert it to 12 volt? Cheaper I mean?

Thu Nov 29, 2007 11:20 am

Does this look to be enough?

Mon Jan 12, 2009 8:53 pm

Wow, great article. I like the added touch of Muir's idiot guide on the shelf, much used. Did you trace out the card board from the edge of the flywheel teeth or the lip on the engine itself?