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Tue Aug 27, 2013 6:27 pm

I invested in a cheap Harbor Freight 110 spot welder.

Tue Aug 27, 2013 8:12 pm

Great idea for attaching the inner to the outer. I'll head on over to HB tomorrow.

Wed Aug 28, 2013 6:53 am

kenshapiro2002 wrote: Great idea for attaching the inner to the outer. I'll head on over to HB tomorrow.

Maybe not...been reading up some:

http://www.camaros.net/forums/archive/index.php/t-91303.html

Wed Aug 28, 2013 4:57 pm

I tested it first before I used it and you cannot pull the welds apart. Even used a chisel and ripped the metal.

The only issue is that you need to keep it cool and not over heat the tips.
The high humidity here in FL was hell on the tips. I had loosen and re-tighten the tips to get good conductivity.

I bought the cheap one to use a couple of times without spending too much.

If you plan on doing it for a living I would buy a better one.

Harbor freight sells a 220v for the same price. Extra tips are sold only thru customer service over the phone.

I know of three others that use these and have no problems.
Yes they are made poorly but do the job.

900lbs would burn thru the metal and ruin any spot weld tip.
Miller's instructions are to use very little pressure. The pressure is only used by other devises holding metal together.

Sat Aug 31, 2013 10:45 am

Great work. I love these kind of threads!

kenshapiro2002 wrote: I figure anything I eff up can be fixed.....

My exact attitude!! I just jumped in just like you did. Having fun and learning for sure.

Keep up the pics!

Sat Aug 31, 2013 7:01 pm

brettsvw wrote: The only issue is that you need to keep it cool and not over heat the tips.

I had loosen and re-tighten the tips to get good conductivity.

I know of three others that use these and have no problems.
Yes they are made poorly but do the job.

I love my 220 one but gad is it heavy. File the tips flat every so often with a medium file.

Thu Sep 05, 2013 9:35 am

I WAS going to install the inner first and then the outer as recommended above, but that is NOT gonna happen. There's simply too much tweaking needed to get the seal gap consistent to do it once one piece is installed. Also MUCH easier (for me) to do the needed welding with the two pieces on the bench. Spent over an hour so far matching the two pieces together (screws for now...welding later). Going to take a few more hours to shave the new piece to the exact size needed for where I hacked out the old cancerous piece.

Here's my new A-pillar right before welding in.

Thu Sep 05, 2013 11:39 am

Fri Sep 06, 2013 6:47 am

I have been following your thread Ken and have gained a lot of info. That last picture you posted looks like a lot of material needs to be removed from the back side to line up properly, are the pieces made that way so a person can get them to fit the correct way?? Thanks *EDIT* Opps just looked again I thought that was the Pass. side but now see it is the drivers. So same question it looks like a lot of material needs to be removed. :oops:

Fri Sep 06, 2013 7:43 am

Not sure where you're looking, but only trimming a little to make the new part match up to my cut on the old. Doing it now in fact ... Took a break to answer you. Patience is paramount...grind the smallest amount, test fit, grind, test...

Fri Sep 06, 2013 11:11 am

Welded the inner and outer together outside of the car after aligning with clamps and screws:

Fri Sep 06, 2013 11:11 am

Fri Sep 06, 2013 11:13 am

Welded in (partially) at the aft end. Still held in with screws at the A-Pillar. As you can see (arrow) the wheel well lip is broader on my KF piece. No big deal...will straighten the roll over and refold correctly to make the transition more "normal".

Sat Sep 07, 2013 8:39 am

The lower dogleg replacement is for all years. Fat and thin lip.

I cut exactly where the two would meet, which is about a quarter in. lower.

I agree, yours is a simple fix to make them meet.

Sat Sep 07, 2013 9:43 am

brettsvw wrote: The lower dogleg replacement is for all years. Fat and thin lip.

I cut exactly where the two would meet, which is about a quarter in. lower.

I agree, yours is a simple fix to make them meet.

I was trying to keep as much OG metal as possible, and didn't consider (or know) there was a "meeting" point width wise. Thanks.

Sat Sep 07, 2013 2:59 pm

Matching that lip was pretty easy. Once I had everything welded up tight, I just unfolded it and refolded it tighter. This welding stuff is VERY satisfying. Can't believe I waited 60 years to try it. Replacing half a dog leg seems more complex than doing the whole thing, and I've been welding for two weeks now. Proof that anybody can learn to weld and work on metal. FAR from good at this, but it's working!

Sun Sep 08, 2013 4:58 am

I should have mentioned it when we spoke over the phone about the lower dogleg fitment.
Anyhow, looks like you took care of it.

Sun Sep 08, 2013 5:40 am

This thread is awesome. Not only does it serve as a great "how to" for most dog leg repairs which seem to be the most common area in need, but it also shows that even with no experience, one can achieve awesome results. I have done these repairs and patience is the key. Nice job everybody and hopefully this thread will inspire others to take the leap from rusty bus driver to body man!

Sun Sep 08, 2013 11:28 am

On to the right side:

Sun Sep 08, 2013 2:18 pm

Be very careful grinding your welds. The metal gets thin very quickly.

I learned the hard way.

What are you using to grind welds?

I started with a grinder and with advise from others I switch to a small angle grinder with 3in. sanding disc. 60 and 80 grit.