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Sat Oct 29, 2005 6:31 pm

Unfortunately I have to store my 69 bus outdoors this winter and am worried as hell so does anyone have some tips on this like should I cover it with a tarp or will that cause problems for the paint, is it best to put it on blocks etc.We get a lot of snow around here and it gets reeeal cold :(

Sat Oct 29, 2005 7:28 pm

90% of the battle is keeping it out of traffic in the winter. That is the way most of us deal with winter here. If you can store it indoors, great; if not you are like most of us, Fill the gas tank and add some fuel stabilizer like STA-BIL from Canadian Tire, run the engine for a few minutes to get the stabilizer into the fuel lines, put the bus up on blocks, if you have a car cover that is best, tarp will chafe the paint if not kept completely tight. If you have neither, wax the paint, rub vegetable oil on all exposed rubber including the tires and window trim, and tape masking paper over the inside of the windows to keep sunlight off the interior. After heavy snow knock it off the roof, this will keep snow loads off the roof and keep moisture out of the seals once it melts. You can do more, but it is only four months, that is what I do.

Sat Oct 29, 2005 7:43 pm

Really appreciate the advice.Since I finally got my dream vehicle I worry like crazy about it. When I get enough money I'm going to build a garage for it.

Sat Oct 29, 2005 9:08 pm

My first winter was like that too.

Sun Oct 30, 2005 1:15 pm

Like step says, being outside isn't necessarily such a big deal.
There's a lot of people around here that drive in the salt and park in a heated garage thinking that's better. The salt water melts and starts corrosion faster.
Then they go get on a fresh batch the next day.
Probably better to be outside in a frozen stasis and protected from incidental damage.
I heard that a bunch of dryer sheets keep mice out. Seems to work in my formerly rodent ridden storage cabinet.
Rob

Sun Oct 30, 2005 1:33 pm

make sure your water is drained out of the sink pump.. if not, it might freeze and ruin the pump.

Sun Oct 30, 2005 1:43 pm

Here are some tips for long term storage of a beetle, in a garage:
1. Put a can of fuel stabilizer in the tank. Fill the tank, run engine for 10 to 15 minutes to make sure the fuel stabilizer makes it all the way to the carburetor. Top off the fuel.
2. Change the engine oil
3. Change the gear oil
4. Replace the brake fluid starting at the furthest wheel and finishing with the front left.
5. Grease the front beam
6. Change the oil in the air filter if you have the stock one
7. Adjust the valves
8. Do a full tune up. New plugs, point, fuel filter, rotor, cap, etc.
9. This is a good time to consider replacement of the rubber fuel lines.
10. Clean the engine compartment
11. Clean the underside of the car
12. Inflate all tires to the maximum recommended on the sidewalls.
13. Fully detail the car, including a top quality wax job and dressing of all plastic and rubber parts. Park car inside of a garage.
14. Jack the car 1 to 2 inches so the tires do not hold all the weight.
15. Remove each plug and pour in about 1 to 2 ounces of regular engine oil or marvel mystery oil. Using a wrench or the starter (remove coil cable to distributor since you do not want the engine to start) rotate the engine a few revs to get the oil on all upper portions of the cylinder head.
16. Put steel wool on the exhaust tip. Put a piece of plastic also at the end held in place with a rubber band. This is intended to stop critters from nesting inside your exhaust.
15. Using a large plastic bag put it over the fan assembly and air filter inlet to prevent critters making it in that route.
16. Make sure all the hoses in the heating system are in good shape and connected at the ends. Metal ones are better to prevent animals from coming in.
17. Remove the battery. Clean area; if you find rust treat it with POR 15 or equivalent. Top of the battery cells and store battery in a cool dry place (above freezing).
18. Get three plastic containers. Fill with cedar shavings, and then put in trunk, cab, and engine compartment.
19. Get 2 damp rid. Put one in the trunk and another in the cab.
20. Open the glove door and the ashtray.
21. Do not engage the emergency brake. It most likely will freeze on you during the long months of not being used.
22. Close the doors, trunk, and lid. But do not fully compress the rubber. This is specially important with the doors and pop out windows. Note: Dress all rubber gaskets.
23. Get a sheet of plastic and lay below your car. This prevents moisture that comes up thru the slab from causing any rust in your car.
24. Get a breathable cover and cover your car.
25. Check the damp rid and cedar shavings at least every two weeks and replace/drain as needed

Other things you may want to consider is to put a platic sheet under the car to prevent the moisture which will evaporate (yes it will happen by sublimation) as well as gettin a breathable cover made from noah or evolution 3.

Good luck.

Sun Oct 30, 2005 2:32 pm

Yes, Why are we changing the fluids? Because moisture can accumulate in the oil and if left to sit, it will settle to the bottom and being in the same place can rust the inside of whatever component it's in. Brake fluid is hydrophilic and actually absorbs moisture, if it is saturated it can potentially cause corrosion throughout the system if not changed regularly. If you have a busted upper reservoir as some do, beware, the brake fluid will absorb moisture in the air in an alarmingly short amount of time. Do whatever you have to do to get the system airtight again.

I personally do not worry about doing a tune up, valve adjustment etc. until the spring when I am taking it out of storage, but whatever, taking care of your bus is always a good thing. If you put the bus up on blocks, consider deflating the tires, it can help prevent bulges, especially if the tires are old. But at least get them off the ground if the bus is going to sit, you will notice a set when you first drive it in the spring if you do not. If you fill the tires with nitrogen the rims will not corrode on the inside, I consider this a bit extreme but if you are worried about corrosion you can squirt a little methyl hydrate in there and inflate to about 5 lbs and the methyl hydrate will absorb any condensation. Winter storage can be as complicated as you want it to be, for an unrestored but functional unit as most of ours are most of this is not all that necessary.

What's damp rid?

Sun Oct 30, 2005 4:31 pm

Damp rid is a calcium chloride product which absorbs moisture. People use in moist/damp closets it also will melt ice (4X) better than rock salt.

Sun Oct 30, 2005 4:41 pm

:shock:

Sun Oct 30, 2005 4:42 pm

Miguel Arroyo wrote: Damp rid is a calcium chloride product which absorbs moisture. People use in moist/damp closets it also will melt ice (4X) better than rock salt.

It is true, but how would a guy from Miami know that? :P

Sun Oct 30, 2005 9:28 pm

Thanks for all the advice. The next door neighbour offered a place in his barn to store my van . Safe and suprisingly clean and secure. Nice bit of luck. :D

Sun Oct 30, 2005 9:36 pm

Drive it. Park it outside at night. It'll last WEEKS!

(Oh, wait. I do that! :oops: )

Mon Oct 31, 2005 3:37 pm

Randy in Maine wrote: Miguel Arroyo wrote: Damp rid is a calcium chloride product which absorbs moisture. People use in moist/damp closets it also will melt ice (4X) better than rock salt.

It is true, but how would a guy from Miami know that? :P

I actually read the instructions on the manufacture's label :shock:

Mon Oct 31, 2005 4:01 pm

Miguel Arroyo wrote: Here are some tips for long term storage of a beetle, in a garage:
1. Put a can of fuel stabilizer in the tank. Fill the tank, run engine for 10 to 15 minutes to make sure the fuel stabilizer makes it all the way to the carburetor. Top off the fuel.
2. Change the engine oil
3. Change the gear oil
4. Replace the brake fluid starting at the furthest wheel and finishing with the front left.
5. Grease the front beam
6. Change the oil in the air filter if you have the stock one
7. Adjust the valves
8. Do a full tune up. New plugs, point, fuel filter, rotor, cap, etc.
9. This is a good time to consider replacement of the rubber fuel lines.
10. Clean the engine compartment
11. Clean the underside of the car
12. Inflate all tires to the maximum recommended on the sidewalls.
13. Fully detail the car, including a top quality wax job and dressing of all plastic and rubber parts. Park car inside of a garage.
14. Jack the car 1 to 2 inches so the tires do not hold all the weight.
15. Remove each plug and pour in about 1 to 2 ounces of regular engine oil or marvel mystery oil. Using a wrench or the starter (remove coil cable to distributor since you do not want the engine to start) rotate the engine a few revs to get the oil on all upper portions of the cylinder head.
16. Put steel wool on the exhaust tip. Put a piece of plastic also at the end held in place with a rubber band. This is intended to stop critters from nesting inside your exhaust.
15. Using a large plastic bag put it over the fan assembly and air filter inlet to prevent critters making it in that route.
16. Make sure all the hoses in the heating system are in good shape and connected at the ends. Metal ones are better to prevent animals from coming in.
17. Remove the battery. Clean area; if you find rust treat it with POR 15 or equivalent. Top of the battery cells and store battery in a cool dry place (above freezing).
18. Get three plastic containers. Fill with cedar shavings, and then put in trunk, cab, and engine compartment.
19. Get 2 damp rid. Put one in the trunk and another in the cab.
20. Open the glove door and the ashtray.
21. Do not engage the emergency brake. It most likely will freeze on you during the long months of not being used.
22. Close the doors, trunk, and lid. But do not fully compress the rubber. This is specially important with the doors and pop out windows. Note: Dress all rubber gaskets.
23. Get a sheet of plastic and lay below your car. This prevents moisture that comes up thru the slab from causing any rust in your car.
24. Get a breathable cover and cover your car.
25. Check the damp rid and cedar shavings at least every two weeks and replace/drain as needed

Other things you may want to consider is to put a platic sheet under the car to prevent the moisture which will evaporate (yes it will happen by sublimation) as well as gettin a breathable cover made from noah or evolution 3.

Good luck.

This is why I moved to San Francisco... :D

Mon Oct 31, 2005 5:57 pm

Were I live it snow's in October and melts in late may! :cry:

Wed Nov 16, 2005 7:03 am

I just bought a bus, and I plan on doing a lot of work on it this winter. Luckily, I have a garage, and the little area i live in doesn't dump a ton of salt on the road. So, I can at least test drive it after I break, i mean, FIX something without the bottom rusting out!
But yeah- in WI, we had a dusting of snow last night, and I am sure the car-damaging, enviromentally damaging (but "SAFE") salt will be spread like holy water soon.
I used to look forward to spring quitew a bit, and now that I have the bus, I will look forward to it even more! :)

Wed Nov 16, 2005 12:31 pm

what advice do you have for someone with a magic bus in a damp garage? Went out in the tornado winds last evening to check on her and she had moisture on the paint but hadn't been outdoors in a few days.

Perhaps I should open the door and let it air out so my new heater flaps don't rust? :shock:

One day, I will have a heated garage with low humidity controlled at least in winter months...or maybe I will move to FL where there is no snow and cold. :-k

Wed Nov 16, 2005 1:46 pm

VWBusrepairman wrote: what advice do you have for someone with a magic bus in a damp garage? Went out in the tornado winds last evening to check on her and she had moisture on the paint but hadn't been outdoors in a few days.

Perhaps I should open the door and let it air out so my new heater flaps don't rust? :shock:

One day, I will have a heated garage with low humidity controlled at least in winter months...or maybe I will move to FL where there is no snow and cold. :-k

I know what you mean... it is cold, a little snowy, and BLAH in WI today.... right now, CA or FLA look REALLY good.... but nothing beats WI in the spring, summer, and early fall!

Wed Nov 16, 2005 1:52 pm

fuel stabilizer in the tank
I have many clues to think that is BS.
In my opinion, fuel needs no stabilizer.

Do not forget to change the air, in the ai filter. Every 5000 miles.

I cannot read that long list...Tell me, is that ok for a blow job or a pussy suck with your partner while storing the bus ?