TheSamba.com :: View topic - Windshield seal replacement

Wed Nov 09, 2005 2:52 pm

I ordered new seals for my front and rear glass. Never done it so need tips on how to do the job- getting the glass out without breaking it etc. The old seals are very dry and cracked.

Moderator note:
Nice tutorial with photos from page 8

Wed Nov 09, 2005 3:20 pm

Out use a razor knife or blade of some type to cut the seal. run it between the glass and the seal carefuly.. and then for back in clean the metal lip of the window hole. then fit the seal around the glass put the seem at the top in the center I belive (just for looks). get a peice of string or twine and fit in the channle onthe outside edge of the seal (where it goes to the body of the bus) over lap the ends of the string spray the opening with wd-40 or soapy water on the outside of it. have someone hold the glass in the hole from the outside and press gently. while you pull the strings and the rubber lip should fit it self over the metal lip. and pull the window in at the same time.. good luck. I was able to do both my fronts and back ones by myself in a about 30 mins..

Wed Nov 09, 2005 3:22 pm

you have to cut out the old seals quite throughly from the out side...you will need a very strong, sharp knife to cut up the crust old rubber. DO not pry on either side the the glass...tap on it with the side of your fist lightly till it budges out.
To reinstall, spray rubber with soapy water (dish soap or murphys oil soap both work well), get a piece of wire (I use some decent quality stereo wire...just cause I have alot of it around) and slide it into the groove of the rubber that's going to mate to the window frame.
very slowly pull out the wire to pull the lip of the rubber to the inside of the bus while pushing gently on the opposite side (I like to push with my fingers on the outside of the seal)

take your time, don't apply to much pressure and never try to pry out the glass.

Thu Nov 10, 2005 9:36 pm

mojobus wrote: I ordered new seals for my front and rear glass. Never done it so need tips on how to do the job- getting the glass out without breaking it etc. The old seals are very dry and cracked.

Hi Mojobus,
Never use a string or twine for installing rubber, it can saw through the rubber. Get a Bentley "Workshop Manual" for your year bus for this and tons of other info. Also do not use soap.
YOU MUST use a proper sealant (silicon does not work) that stays sticky and flexable (kind of like smooth peanut butter, but lasts forever) to keep the water out. We took several years to find out roofing tar (thin coating on the body and a bead in the glass groove of the seal) worked best for us in the rainy PNW of USA. Otherwise rusty water got in past the new seals onto the dash about six months later! You can check out the official VW instructions for sealing out water in the type 1 & 3s in the "Damage Numbers" @
http://failsure.net/oacdp/
Eric&Barb

Sun Nov 13, 2005 7:49 am

you can use house romex wire for your window install. use the wires that are insulated and it will not damage your seals.

Sun Nov 13, 2005 8:52 am

i use a thin gauge of weed eater string. very smooth, and very flexible

Eric&Barb wrote: Also do not use soap.

any particular reason? never heard that before.

Sun Nov 13, 2005 9:32 am

Hi Ronnie,
The problem with weed eater line even if it is smooth, is that it is very hard. This can easily scratch and chip the paint on the body. Especially soft, not fully cured new paint.
Soap in there will cause problems with getting a windshield sealant to stick on both body and seal!
Eric&Barb

Sun Nov 13, 2005 10:07 am

Here's a post about Eric&Barb that got moved to Classifieds Feedback:

Okay, who are these guys? :) They know everything! I would like to invite Eric&Barb to visit me in Ventura...bring your tools!

Really, great contributors to TheSamba. 8)

Sun Nov 13, 2005 10:57 am

Eric&Barb wrote: Hi Ronnie,
The problem with weed eater line even if it is smooth, is that it is very hard. This can easily scratch and chip the paint on the body. Especially soft, not fully cured new paint.
Soap in there will cause problems with getting a windshield sealant to stick on both body and seal!
Eric&Barb

the line i use is very thin, and very flexible, you can easily kink it with your hands, so it's not too hard. it must suck for use as it's intended purpose, but it's worked well installing glass. never had an issue with chips or scratches

with soap out, what do you reccomend as a lube?

Sun Nov 13, 2005 11:08 am

ronnie wrote: with soap out, what do you reccomend as a lube?

Hi Ronnie,
We used to use a nylon twine and that sawed through parts of the new paint & rubber! Since going to using automotive wire with its soft rubber insulation we have not seen the paint problem when again replacing the glass years later.
We use roofing tar as both a lubricant and sealant. Then use a non-abrasive hand degreaser or kerosene to remove any exposed tar.
If one is dealing with a seal that rides over upholstery inside the VW. One could apply the tar after installing the seal (1955-67 buses with the vent overhang this is not as posssible) with a condiment container (you buy from your local supermarket) and lifting the edge of the seal up on the outside. If then one really needs a lubricant using a light spray of WD-40 should work and the WD-40 soon evaporates. Letting the tar seal the area.
Eric&Barb

Mon Nov 14, 2005 11:31 pm

Eric&Barb wrote: ronnie wrote: with soap out, what do you reccomend as a lube?

Hi Ronnie,
We used to use a nylon twine and that sawed through parts of the new paint & rubber! Since going to using automotive wire with its soft rubber insulation we have not seen the paint problem when again replacing the glass years later.
We use roofing tar as both a lubricant and sealant. Then use a non-abrasive hand degreaser or kerosene to remove any exposed tar.
If one is dealing with a seal that rides over upholstery inside the VW. One could apply the tar after installing the seal (1955-67 buses with the vent overhang this is not as posssible) with a condiment container (you buy from your local supermarket) and lifting the edge of the seal up on the outside. If then one really needs a lubricant using a light spray of WD-40 should work and the WD-40 soon evaporates. Letting the tar seal the area.
Eric&Barb

E & B, great timing on this...I was just going to ask about sealing new seals that were recently installed. I live in the Portland area and have had a bunch of problems with water leaking in the corners of my windshield during the recent rain storms. I had gone to one of the local auto glass shops and they gave me a tube of liquid rubber that they use. It didn't work out for me so I was trying to come up with another brainstorm.

- Is there any specific roofing tar that you recommend?
- Since this stuff doesn't really cure, does it ooze out when the weather gets hot?

Really great idea on the squeeze bottle.

Mon Nov 14, 2005 11:49 pm

I use 18 gauge electrical wire to install my windows.

Here's a super-cool little tip I learned recently: Take a Bic pen, pull out the pen element and feed the wire through the pen. Then use the pen to force the wire into the channel in the new rubber. You can run the wire into the channel in a matter of seconds this way.

Tue Nov 15, 2005 8:01 am

Hi Jerry,
If you have rust under the seals you are going to have problems with sealing them. Even with roofing tar. It might be a good time to remove the glass and seals to find out how much is under there, and repair.
We use the "Henry's" brand of roofing tar, but nation and worldwide there are many differant suppliers of roofing tar, and they all should do well. Just make sure it is real roofing tar, that smells like fresh asphault or seaside dock piers. There is a new type of roofing sealant coming out on the market that is a plastic product. While it will seal, it will not repel rust and will not reseal when warmed if you go Bajaing in freezing weather.
We have not had any problem with oozing.
Make sure the condiment container you purchase has a pull off cover on the tip. The screw type open/close tip constantly slips closed. BTDT!
Hey Tom,
Cool tip, with the pen!
Eric&Barb

Tue Nov 15, 2005 10:30 am

Eric & Barb, I was trying to think of Henry's when I was writing the post. I've used that on roof flashing many times. In fact I know I have quart of it around the house somewhere. Great stuff!

Thanks for the tip on the rust. Most all of the rust was sanded off and several coats of POR-15 was applied. Thank you very kindly for your help. I appreciate it very much.

Tue Nov 15, 2005 11:53 am

Funny how the Bentley manual recommends string and soapy water for installing windows. The seal gets put into place first, and then the glass should be installed. 3M makes an excellent adhesive for this purpose.

Roofing tar??? Damn! :shock: Judging by the responses, PT Barnum was right -- there's a sucker born every minute.

Tue Nov 15, 2005 2:11 pm

Hi Major Woody,
i've personally used (non lubricated) nylon string/cord to install windows for the past 15+ years. The diameter of the cord is 1/8" according to the packaging. I have yet to tear a rubber seal or chip paint. when you pull on the string/cord, you must be certain to pull at the proper angle, or yes, you will tear the rubber. there is a wrong way to pull the string/cord when installing a window. i just recently replaced 5 window seals on my 59 Westfalia, and the total time, including old window removal, installing the seals on the windows, cleaning them and the openings, running the cord in the seals, and actual installation was less than 1 hour. i did not use water, oil, ky jelly, wd-40, glycerine, pam oven spray, or toilet bowl cleaner to aid in installation. i simply use a rag that i spray with some silicon lubricant and wipe it on the seal, the part that lips over, because that's the only part that actually has to do any moving. all the rest of the seal edges i leave uncoated, because i want them to get a good seal against the metal. when the edge is fully lipped over the metal edge of the bus, i GENTLY push on the glass to fully seat it. works every time, and many of my friends are amazed that i install windows so easily with such good results. IF i encounter a leak, i sure as hell do not use roofing tar. i get a tube of latex CAULK that stays flexible when cured, cut the tip at a very sharp angle, and run it under the leading edge of the seal (when it's in the vehicle). do i have leaky windows? no (duh). currently in my 59 Westfalia, i iave windshield seals that i replaced about 6 years ago and used SILICON sealant, well, they still do not leak.
as far as windows breaking, well i have had 1 window get a small crack in it when installing it. it was not an original piece of glass, and the thickness was more than an original windshield and the bus had body damage. the crack was about 2" long, and was in the lower right corner of the passenger side windshield, and ran diagonally from side to side, so it was not a safety factor, and it was barely visible. other than that, i have nto broken a window installing it. i also DO NOT like when others help installing windows. i do it solo, and i have no problems doing it that way. people pressing at all weird angles and strength is just asking for glass to break.
my toaster is clean, and i finally got rid of the ant problem now that the crumb tray has been cleaned. i also lifted up the electrical parts of the hot pad (the part that gets hot when plugged in) to wipe off all the motor oil that got there when i heated up the crankshaft gears before i installed them on the crankshaft. lucky for me, the snap ring did not end up in that bucket of "mystery goop" when it flew across the room.
hazetguy&vomit

Tue Nov 15, 2005 2:18 pm

hazetguy wrote: Hi Major Woody,
i've personally used (non lubricated) nylon string/cord to install windows for the past 15+ years. The diameter of the cord is 1/8" according to the packaging. I have yet to tear a rubber seal or chip paint. when you pull on the string/cord, you must be certain to pull at the proper angle, or yes, you will tear the rubber. there is a wrong way to pull the string/cord when installing a window. i just recently replaced 5 window seals on my 59 Westfalia, and the total time, including old window removal, installing the seals on the windows, cleaning them and the openings, running the cord in the seals, and actual installation was less than 1 hour. i did not use water, oil, ky jelly, wd-40, glycerine, pam oven spray, or toilet bowl cleaner to aid in installation. i simply use a rag that i spray with some silicon lubricant and wipe it on the seal, the part that lips over, because that's the only part that actually has to do any moving. all the rest of the seal edges i leave uncoated, because i want them to get a good seal against the metal. when the edge is fully lipped over the metal edge of the bus, i GENTLY push on the glass to fully seat it. works every time, and many of my friends are amazed that i install windows so easily with such good results. IF i encounter a leak, i sure as hell do not use roofing tar. i get a tube of latex CAULK that stays flexible when cured, cut the tip at a very sharp angle, and run it under the leading edge of the seal (when it's in the vehicle). do i have leaky windows? no (duh). currently in my 59 Westfalia, i iave windshield seals that i replaced about 6 years ago and used SILICON sealant, well, they still do not leak.
as far as windows breaking, well i have had 1 window get a small crack in it when installing it. it was not an original piece of glass, and the thickness was more than an original windshield and the bus had body damage. the crack was about 2" long, and was in the lower right corner of the passenger side windshield, and ran diagonally from side to side, so it was not a safety factor, and it was barely visible. other than that, i have nto broken a window installing it. i also DO NOT like when others help installing windows. i do it solo, and i have no problems doing it that way. people pressing at all weird angles and strength is just asking for glass to break.
my toaster is clean, and i finally got rid of the ant problem now that the crumb tray has been cleaned. i also lifted up the electrical parts of the hot pad (the part that gets hot when plugged in) to wipe off all the motor oil that got there when i heated up the crankshaft gears before i installed them on the crankshaft. lucky for me, the snap ring did not end up in that bucket of "mystery goop" when it flew across the room.
hazetguy&vomit

KY might cause you to push too hard and the glass will go all the way through, right? Good to know.

Also, never install windows alone. That way if the glass gets broken, you can pass the blame onto your hapless helper.

Tue Nov 15, 2005 3:52 pm

Eric&Barb wrote: ...We took several years to find out roofing tar (thin coating on the body and a bead in the glass groove of the seal) worked best for us in the rainy PNW of USA...
I'm not trying to question your authority (since you have quite a bit of experience), but to me that sounds like a good way to fuck up a brand new white headliner that was just installed. I mean, that's $200 and 4 hours of one's life that will never be redeemed :?

Tue Nov 15, 2005 6:39 pm

Hi MrBubblehead,
That is why we wrote the below in an earlier post above! :wink:
Eric&Barb

Eric&Barb wrote: If one is dealing with a seal that rides over upholstery inside the VW. One could apply the tar after installing the seal (1955-67 buses with the vent overhang this is not as posssible) with a condiment container (you buy from your local supermarket) and lifting the edge of the seal up on the outside. If then one really needs a lubricant using a light spray of WD-40 should work and the WD-40 soon evaporates. Letting the tar seal the area.
Eric&Barb

Tue Nov 15, 2005 6:48 pm

Icy wrote: Funny how the Bentley manual recommends string and soapy water for installing windows. The seal gets put into place first, and then the glass should be installed. 3M makes an excellent adhesive for this purpose.

Roofing tar??? Damn! :shock: Judging by the responses, PT Barnum was right -- there's a sucker born every minute.

The 3M "windshield bedding compound" was something I was looking into. The stuff is hard to find, though.

Who was PT Barnum and what does he have to do with windshield seals?