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Fri Nov 18, 2005 8:03 am

We constantly get asked “how do I lower my car”, so this is will be a “sticky” so that we don’t have to answer the same question over and over again.

Please post descriptions, pictures and parts needed to lower a Link Pin beam.

There will be a similar topic for Ball Joint beam in the Late Model forum, so Link Pin only here.

Please keep this technical and no BS’ing.

Sat Nov 19, 2005 11:01 am

Here are some great links for the rear that should save people alot of time who don't have much. Good luck :wink:

http://www.geocities.com/aussiebug1970/rearaxle.html

http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/rearsuspension.htm

Sun Nov 20, 2005 6:49 am

Here are some pics of a link beam I narrowed and welded adjusters into. These adjusters are Bugpack style. I also modified the towers to clear the body, rather than modify the body. I leaned the towers out 3/4" each, then shaved the inner portion to achieve a minimum of 29 1/2" between the towers.

Some of these pics are large, so I am just providing links so you can open them one at a time.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=238797
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=238796
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=238798

I also shaved the upper shock mount boss to gain back some of the distance the tower was moved.

Thu Dec 01, 2005 4:05 pm

i just did this to my spring plates last night and am currently re-assembling everything. it just seems SOOOO unsafe! any thoughts?
i guess im taking my chances........ and when the rear wheels go flying off, im gonna put whole spring plates back on. yeah, im cool.

Tue Dec 13, 2005 12:02 am

wait so how do i lower the rear end of a 62?

is it the same as those pics up there of the 68?

I'd kind of like some pictures so i can start this process? also if anyone has some advice for lowering it with the cb 2.5 inch drop spindles. how would i make it level?

Thu Dec 15, 2005 12:05 am

Drop Spindles offer a great way to keep your ride and still get the dropped look your after. CB Performance make a great set of spindles. They have them in a drum and disc application. They drop your VW 2.5" but they kick the wheels out exactly 5/8" on each side. These can be purchased from most VW shops including Cb Performance, www.airkewld.com , www.kustomcoachwerks.com just to name a few. Also you can check in the samba classifieds for new or used sets.

If you want to use the entire suspension travel, there is a torsion spring replacement alternative and thats and air ride system. This eliminates all the torsions and allows the car to be suspended by air, giving it an ultra smooth ride with out the bobble head effect.

2 companies that can help you in that dept. are www.airkewld.com and KCW.

There is also a narrowed beam alternative that comes with adjusters that narrows the track width allowing you to install aftermarket brakes (that push out the wheels),with out the wheels sticking out or if you want that tucked look If your like me and you like to run larger diameter wheels and you can't get the correct offset, you can narrow your beam to tuck the wheels under the fenders. These beams can come in many widths to allows any and all configurations you would want. Companies that make them as far as I know are, www.airkewld.com , www.franklinsvwwerks.com & KCW.

Due to the differences in heights, updating the shocks with a quality versions helps more than you think. Once you set your ride to the correct height you are comfortable with, measure the distance from the upper shock mount to the lower shock stud and purchase a set of shock that give you equal travel up and down. this will give you a drastic difference in ride.

Hope this helps!

Fri Dec 23, 2005 8:45 am

Stevie Fierce wrote: i just did this to my spring plates last night and am currently re-assembling everything. it just seems SOOOO unsafe! any thoughts?
i guess im taking my chances........ and when the rear wheels go flying off, im gonna put whole spring plates back on. yeah, im cool.

alot of people notch thier spring plates. do not sweat it. it is a good was to get more travel out of a dumped car.

Mon Dec 26, 2005 2:01 pm

i've actually put a few hundred miles on the car since notching them and they are looking A-OK! happy to say! the rear of the car actually rides extremely smooth.

Wed Dec 28, 2005 12:26 pm

Stevie Fierce wrote: i've actually put a few hundred miles on the car since notching them and they are looking A-OK! happy to say! the rear of the car actually rides extremely smooth.

if that picture is of your springplate, i would smooth out your inner corner. hate seeing such a sharp angle. a sharp angle like that would be right where a crack or break would start.

when i notch plates i drill a hole at your left arrow, then cut to it from both dirrections, then there is a smooth curve there.

Fri Dec 30, 2005 1:50 am

I got stuck stranded in the dezert when I notched my Bajas plates. and like he said it was because of that sharp angle I regreted not rounding it off.

Wed Jan 04, 2006 9:05 pm

Good idea to reinforce those notches too

Wed Jan 04, 2006 10:04 pm

Brian Eis wrote: Good idea to reinforce those notches too

The bad part of welding to spring steel is that it loses its tension and will eventually bend or break at that exact point.

Fri Jan 13, 2006 10:19 am

I have a 63 bug with a non adjustable stock front beam and want to lower it and possibly narrow the beam.

I see Petes reply on front beams and have a couple questions.

1. I have been told by a few guys that when I purchase a narrowed beam I need to purchase narrow enternal springs as well? Is this correct?
If so on your site Pete since this is not listed does your beam come with all I need to simply bolt on my backing plates and spindles and put on my car or what other items do I need to purchase to be ready to botl on and go?

2. I see norrowed and adjustable beams in HOT VW mag for around $135. Anyone have any info on these beams? Are they good or junk?

3. It looks like Pete offers a front lowering air ride kit for adaptation to my stock beam. If I go this route and purchase the $400 air ride front kit other than an air management system (thinking of just going the old air the shocks to the height I want and leave them - if I can do this) what else do I need to buy to make this work on my stock beam? I know there is some welding and fabrication to do this and that is not a problem for me.

I would like to do this for around the $300 to $450 price range. Any imput you can give me on this would help me before I purchase something I dont need or buy something that will cause more prolems later.

Thanks
Larry

Mon Feb 06, 2006 1:33 pm

Old school lowering device. This pre-dates adjustable beams

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=274318

Thu Feb 16, 2006 3:10 am

I added a sway-a-way rear stablizer bar to my car, and I like it's rear height, but the front is kind of high. I want to drop the car just a bit, and I'd like the option on being able to adjust it for perfect height. Mid America #306-031 sells adjusters for the front beam for $29.99. It allows a range of up to 2 inches, from stock, which is what I want. I was just wondering if anybody has used them before, and what else I might need to purchase with them. The car is a minty resto '65 (link pin) and we have good knowledge of welding. I was just wondering if anybody has tried these, and if they've had difficulties or not. Thanx in advance :)

Josh

Wed Feb 22, 2006 11:35 pm

I got a funny story about lowering a beetle (in a "I just wasted a boat load of money" kinda funny) I bought a pair of spindles and paid $169 for them then had them built at a shop near my house $185 . Then when i put them on I noticed that my 195 70 15 tires were hitting the fenders. So i bought Toyo brand 195 45 15 $250 and was told they would fit They did unless you pushed the front end down because it would stay down , no spring what so ever. So I purchased a new front beam spindle to spindle from the place that built my spindels $299 . Same problem! New shocks ,same problem. So now i am moving the shims around hoping that that is whats binding the front end. No luck . The front end they sold me was a pre 60 with more shims so it is 5 inside and outside (accourding to the John Muir manual) I heard that drop spindles raise the wheel so you have to move the top of the tire out to make up for it. I am as frustrated as I can get any help would be nice . Other than climb under car and drop on self Just kidding .

Thu Feb 23, 2006 10:39 am

whitey05 wrote: I got a funny story about lowering a beetle (in a "I just wasted a boat load of money" kinda funny) I bought a pair of spindles and paid $169 for them then had them built at a shop near my house $185 . Then when i put them on I noticed that my 195 70 15 tires were hitting the fenders. So i bought Toyo brand 195 45 15 $250 and was told they would fit They did unless you pushed the front end down because it would stay down , no spring what so ever. So I purchased a new front beam spindle to spindle from the place that built my spindels $299 . Same problem! New shocks ,same problem. So now i am moving the shims around hoping that that is whats binding the front end. No luck . The front end they sold me was a pre 60 with more shims so it is 5 inside and outside (accourding to the John Muir manual) I heard that drop spindles raise the wheel so you have to move the top of the tire out to make up for it. I am as frustrated as I can get any help would be nice . Other than climb under car and drop on self Just kidding .

With dropped spindles the largest tire you can run are 145's. If you narrow the beam, you can fit some more rubber under the fender.

Thu Feb 23, 2006 12:25 pm

I was pretty sure that I would have to get narrower tires but my rims are sweet so I might just put the stock spindles that came on the new front beam back on . That also sucks because it looks sweet with the lower front end. I have the American Eagle 5 spoke black rims and the car is yellow so it really sets it off nicely. Anyway thanks for the info
Happy driving , Whitey

Sun Mar 26, 2006 10:08 pm

I thought this was the 'lowering a link pin beam" sticky? Looks more like the narrowing front end and rear spring plate thread?

Sorry...but with that off my chest I was wondering ( as a lowering newbie ) if I do the dropped spindles on my 64 what else will I need to buy? I can still go with all other stock parts, brakes etc?
Thanks.

Tue Mar 28, 2006 11:51 pm

krazkayaker wrote: I thought this was the 'lowering a link pin beam" sticky? Looks more like the narrowing front end and rear spring plate thread?

Sorry...but with that off my chest I was wondering ( as a lowering newbie ) if I do the dropped spindles on my 64 what else will I need to buy? I can still go with all other stock parts, brakes etc?
Thanks.

Yes. Drop spindles interchange with stock spindles, you can use stock parts for the rest.