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pablovent Tue Nov 29, 2016 2:24 pm

gears wrote: Unfortunately, the diff parts in those are not known for their durability..
But is not the same Rhino case tranny?








gears Tue Nov 29, 2016 3:29 pm

There's nothing wrong with the housings ..

KailuaVeeDub Sun Jan 08, 2017 1:21 pm

can trans for 73 bus go into at 76 bus? is it better/worse. trying to decide if i want to rebuilt the one i have (76) or buy one off of a 73 (for sale locally) and install it. Thanks!!

turboblue Tue Jan 10, 2017 8:28 am

KailuaVeeDub wrote: can trans for 73 bus go into at 76 bus? is it better/worse. trying to decide if i want to rebuilt the one i have (76) or buy one off of a 73 (for sale locally) and install it. Thanks!!

Big difference in ring and pinion ratios.
4.57 on the 76
5.38 on the 73

Slight difference in length too.

911GT2 Sun Mar 05, 2017 2:34 am

I've got a 5-rib (002) pyramid trans laying around. I want to use it in my 69 bay window (also has a 002, 3 rib) do I need to make any modifications or is it just bolt-on?

jsturtlebuggy Sun Mar 05, 2017 10:32 pm

A 5rib should fit in replacement of a 3rib without any problems. There will be ears on top of bell housing for mounting that should not cause any interference with body.

turboblue Mon Mar 06, 2017 8:59 am

911GT2 wrote: I've got a 5-rib (002) pyramid trans laying around. I want to use it in my 69 bay window (also has a 002, 3 rib) do I need to make any modifications or is it just bolt-on?

Just remember you are putting in a higher geared transmission.
More load on the engine if it's stock.

reservoirdubs Sun May 21, 2017 8:08 pm

Just finished installing an 091 into my 72. During break in of the new motor, the transaxle seems to have pumped out about 1L of fluid, from close to the nosecone (the torsion housing is soaked). Any ideas of what might cause this? It was dry until the engine started (bus is up on a hoist). Any pics of the 091 vent hole?

NoBudgetVWGarage Mon May 22, 2017 8:58 am

I have an 091 as well in my 72 but leaking from the bellhousing area soaking the clutch. I know there is a seal near the nosecone.. (may be causing previous posters^^ leak) but is there one in the bellhousing area as well?

dustymojave Mon May 22, 2017 10:50 pm

NoBudgetVWGarage wrote: I have an 091 as well in my 72 but leaking from the bellhousing area soaking the clutch. I know there is a seal near the nosecone.. (may be causing previous posters^^ leak) but is there one in the bellhousing area as well?

Yup, from across the AV 8) , there should be a seal around the input shaft.

NoBudgetVWGarage Tue May 23, 2017 8:46 am

dustymojave wrote: NoBudgetVWGarage wrote: I have an 091 as well in my 72 but leaking from the bellhousing area soaking the clutch. I know there is a seal near the nosecone.. (may be causing previous posters^^ leak) but is there one in the bellhousing area as well?

Yup, from across the AV 8) , there should be a seal around the input shaft.

been a while Richard!
Ill pick up the seal today since the engine is out. Getting ready for Blackstar/Prado.

KailuaVeeDub Fri Jul 14, 2017 11:25 am

I have a 76 bay window that I am considering having the manual transmission rebuilt. I'd love some input before I pull the trigger on a full trans rebuild. I've already had the bus to two shops locally and they are not sure. Both think it may be an internal trans issue (neither are vw shops). I'd love any input since having it rebuilt entails shipping it to/from hawaii at significant cost. It should also be noted that it was recently rebuilt by a shop in oregon less than 2 years ago (by PO).
Currently I am not able to get it into first gear. If using the shifter, engine on, it makes a grinding sound, doesn't go into gear. If engaging first manually from the shift selector at the nosecone (engine off), it will sort of go into gear then pop out upon acceleration. 2,3,4,R work properly.
Things we've already tried: shift plate adjustment, replaced bushings, replaced coupler.
Im considering going with Rancho for my stock rebuild. It has stock pancake engine with single progressive carb.
I'd really appreciate any help as frustration is definitely setting in :wink:


Kevin


gears Fri Jul 14, 2017 7:43 pm

Why aren't you going to VW-specific shops? Steve's VW may be the only place doing van transaxles right now.

It sounds like your problem was merely a misadjusted shifter in the beginning .. but now that it's been driven without fully engaging 1st gear, the flanks of that gear have worn oddly, which is why it now pops out of 1st gear.

You'll probably get more feedback in the correct Bay window forum ..

KailuaVeeDub Sun Jul 16, 2017 11:44 am

You may Be right about the first gear.
I'd love to take it to a VW specialist but as You said there
Is only Steve's auto for trans work on oahu.
He is very nice and I'd like to support a local business, but
But his rates are steep (like triple the cost of a rancho rebuild) and his warranty isn't as good. I will repost on the baywindow forum.
Aloha!!

KP

pullstart Sun Jul 16, 2017 5:57 pm

Must be a case of supply and demand... he can probably charge what he wants when there isn't anyone else reputable...

GARRICK.CLARK Sun Oct 22, 2017 10:16 am

Hi Guys.
I have acquired a CE code type 2 gear box that I want to use In my type 2 into type 1 conversion. (swing axle chassis).
Is this trans a good one to start with. It has no ears on the bell housing hence I think its an early. Code is CE 125 0355
Engine Is type 4 turbo.
Can I beef up this box
Cheers from Vw gearbox noob 8)

theduck Thu Dec 28, 2017 10:47 pm

Hey I know this forum is for bus tranys .However ,I give it a shot .How can I determin a 6volt vs a 12 volt .USING THE NUMBERS ON THE CASE?I know you can get a flywheel and see if it fits.But when at a swap meet this is not possible.So I wonder if the numbers can tell me if it is a 6v,or a 12v.Thx

dustymojave Thu Dec 28, 2017 11:54 pm

Nope....It's not for bus gearboxes. It's for gearboxes in VW Bug - based offroad vehicles.

The model number of the gear box will tell if it was originally for a 6V or 12V application.

But so will the interior of the bellhousing. And since many of the 6V gearboxes have been in cars converted to 12V over the past 50+ years, many of them will have the bellhousing clearanced for the bigger flywheel. Many gearbox casings will have been re-used for rebuilt gearboxes by now too.

So look at the interior of the bell housing. If the upper sides of the bosses for the lower engine studs are nearly paper thin, it's been clearanced for 12V. But if the same bosses are about 3/16" thick, then it's still for 6V. It's not a big deal to clearance for 12V. It does NOT require any special equipment. I 1st did the job back in the early 70s with a hand held drill with a rotary file bit. Maybe 45 minutes including a couple or 3 test fits and it was done. You can usually look at the upper part of the bell housing for evidence of the rotary cutter for clearance in a 12V trans while a stock 6V has little to no cut in the upper part where it would be mostly as cast.

Who.Me? Wed Jun 27, 2018 10:41 am

Apologies for adding to an old thread, but does anyone have any images of the unusual transmission fitted to 1976 South African "Brasilia" (or "1600") Bay/Split hybrid bus described in this link... https://www.aircooledvwsa.co.za/viewtopic.php?t=9014

Description...

Quote: 1976 saw VWSA replacing the Fleetline at the bottom of its bus range with the later Brazilian bay/split hybrid. The bay/splits were known simply as "1600" or "Brasilia" ... They were mechanically a splittie, except they had 72-78 taillights and a bay front grafted on to the splittie rear body. They had reduction gearbox transmissions, but with double-jointed axles, with universal joints instead of CVs.

I read about it a while ago, but a post in the Split Screen forum reminded me. I can't find any images online. I'm just curious to see one looked like.

dustymojave Wed Jun 27, 2018 11:31 am

By that description, I would say they had a T1/T3 IRS tunnel case gearbox with different drive flanges; IRS arms and stub axles unique to that model of Bus; and axle half shafts between the gearbox and trailing arms that had u-joints on the ends and probably slip splines to allow for varying axle shaft length requirement as the wheel moves up and down. Probably very similar axles to a Datsun 510 or 240Z.



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